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3 ways to avoid cutting lines when working with coloured hair

Working with processed hair throws up some new challenges – Jesse Linares, of the Sam Villa art team in New York, shares his expert advice on how to avoid cutting lines when working with coloured hair.

With dramatic colour being at the forefront of current trends, chemically processed hair that shows cutting lines and becomes unruly from damage is a daily challenge. By healing ends with regular trims and creative techniques, as well as softening hard lines with purpose built tools, even the most compromised platinum locks can look soft and polished.

Elevate. Categorically speaking, cutting lines in natural fall leave the most weight in a shape. Often, we diagnose and cut distressed hair right where it lives, which can easily leave us visible marks in the haircut. If possible, use elevation when cutting these sections, it will drop out invaluable length and results in lines that fall softer in the silhouette.

Cut from the inside. Within a section, if the overall length is acceptable but there is damage inside the section, consider cutting from the interior using slide-cutting tools. These tools, such as the Sam Villa Signature Series InvisiBlend Shear and Artist Series 6” Slide-Cutting Shear, allow a stylist to softly and selectively remove unwanted hair from the mid-strand out to the ends. Particularly on highly processed pale blond hair, where cutting lines can be very apparent, utilising these tools will diffuse hard edges for a softer finished look. 

Get rid of split ends. If the damaged ends are too evenly distributed to selectively cut, isolate distressed hair and section off a half-inch horizontal slice. Close to the root area, wrap the section flat under the ring finger, over the middle finger, and under the index finger. Hold the hair with tension and slowly slide hand out to the ends.  Split ends will “pop up” as the hair is rolled over the middle finger. Carefully cut these ends as they appear.

With dramatic colour being at the forefront of current trends, chemically processed hair that shows cutting lines and becomes unruly from damage is a daily challenge. By healing ends with regular trims and creative techniques, as well as softening hard lines with purpose built tools, even the most compromised platinum locks can look soft and polished.

Image credit: Hair/Sam Villa ArTeam; Photo/Katie Parker; Wardrobe/Brittany Hart; Makeup/Nicole Schimel