Fresh from the fashion pages of our May 2022 issue, discover more about the concept and creation of the latest collection from D&J Ambrose
The before…
“The idea behind the collection was to create something without rules or restriction – we had just come out of lockdown and I wanted to pour that new sense of freedom into my work and really unleash creatively. My partner Jackie worked on creating the characters and I came up with the concept, an insight into living alongside a futuristic virtual world of indulgence and obsession.”
The shoot…
“Since we wanted to convert elements of each shot using digital enhancement, we had to consider every detail and how it would alter post-production; when an image becomes digital, the whole structure of colour formation changes.
The ‘Cyber Crop’ was created using fabrics and gold and silver leafing, applied freestyle to create an erratic shape and to capture the light. It’s stripped back and confident – an ‘android fashionista’ moment! The ‘Doll’ was about mimicking childlike purity with a razor cut bob with a shattered perimeter and short, blunt fringe for that real impact around the eyes. We also shoe-shined a colour patch into the hair for a faded, vintage effect.
The teased up-do draws on inspiration from the ’60s and we used classic prepping methods to create maximum body and lift – plenty of mousse, dry shampoo and a traditional set, before backcombing and shaping. The darker root creates that beautiful shadow and a grungier edge – she’s a girl who’d have been hanging out in a smoky underground club. Finally, our men’s look was inspired by the idea of a cyber action hero, fusing urban and indie influences. We created cane rows tight to the head, leaving the length free to move and there is texture around the hair line for a lived-in feel.
The final shots…
“In creating the final collection, I printed off two copies of each image – one which Chris, the photographer, had digitally processed and one with a regular finish – then began to cut up the digital versions, burning them in the middle. I wanted to mimic what happens when photographic paper burns – the way it bubbles and separates and starts to open up. There was no one dictated direction, it was about experimentation and seeing how the process evolved from concept to completion.”