Allow me to talk you through some of my favourite haircuts!
THE WRAP
The Iconic Undercut first worn by Sarah Wingate was a revolution; it was originally cut with buzzers. The key is the central placement of the horseshoe section that defines the disconnection and the over-hang. Today it has become an everyday go-to technique that can be cut and worn with many different lengths and textures. Generally the bigger the gap is between the length in the top area and the shorter back and sides, the stronger the look can become. To make it relevant today use a mix of techniques – for example, graduation and scissor-over-comb achieves a more subtle look.
THE BIAS
This elegant technique was inspired by how designers cut cloth on the bias, a technique that allowed the disconnection to look much softer than the wrap. Again, a horseshoe section is placed in the top area to isolate it from the underneath. The original bias was cut short using graduation in the back and the sides. With imagination, any technique and length can be applied to this area.
The Bias is cut using diagonal sections across the top of the head, cutting a line using the scissors from short to extreme long (imagine climbing a steep mountain). This approach will create a point in the middle with a curved interior on each side, which allows the hair to wrap and swing from side to side and around the head. This is a very flattering look that can be applied and used in a number of ways. This is a commercial success that is as relevant today as it was when first designed in the early 1990’s.
BOB | DISHEVELLED ELEGANCE
This is a bob cut with layers. The technique is extremely versatile as it works in any texture of hair. The length and angle of both the bob and the layers can be designed to suit anybody. Cut the desired bob before adding layers. One must always be careful when cutting the outline as this acts as a guide for the entire internal shape and must have the correct amount of weight. Start the layers in the back area and ensure enough of the desired weight drops out from the outline as this will guarantee a fluid layered shape internally with a strong outline. This is a modern bob that lends both strength and softness to the hair. It is a flattering look that gently pushes hair towards the face and creates a slimming effect.
THE FIREFLY
This iconic 1970’s + 1980’s classic is seeing a return to fashion amongst the youth of today.
The haircut is started in the sides using heavy graduation; as the back area is joined, the graduation gently becomes softer. This is a dramatic look designed to push hair away from the face. If one can master The Firefly, one can master any type of graduation. The key is understanding the importance of creating the correct length for texture when applying the graduation and tension. It is very important to assess the hairlines and the growth patterns, as these will affect the graduation.
THE CROP
This female crop worn by Mia Farrow in the late 1960’s was a strong statement at the time, but quickly became a classic that keeps returning to fashion. The key to a flattering short haircut is to assess the skull, hairlines, texture and growth patterns before the shampoo service. This enables the stylist to make the needed changes in length and finger angles to accommodate suitability.
This look is cut using pivotal sections all around the head. It is wise to start this look at the top of the head and work around the head into the centre back. It is important to be consistent with the chosen length and the finger angle throughout the cut and to make sure not to apply any over-direction. This is a simple technique that can be very versatile with a little imagination.
A-LINE
A brilliant haircut designed to push hair towards the face utilising horizontal graduation on mid-length hair. This look is extremely flattering and works with many lengths and textures. Start in the back hairline using horizontal sections and graduation all the way up the head. It is important to elevate the sections higher than 45 degrees or the haircut will look heavy. The best way to monitor this is to assess how each section falls before proceeding to the next. This mid-length soft A-line look is extremely commercial and a great salon go-to technique.
ROUND GRADUATION
This 1970’s classic is an extremely versatile technique that can work with any texture and length of hair. The haircut starts at the sides and curves into the back using diagonal sections. It was designed to be lighter than its sister,The Firefly. The elevation is above 45 degrees to lift the graduation higher up the head. This approach creates height and volume. It’s a look that is often seen on the runway and worn by the relevant models of today.
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