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What I’ve learned… about making the beehive modern

The beehive is buzzing again – Richard Phillipart, lead stylist at the Jack Irving A/W18 On|Off show, explains why it’s making a comeback

“Jack Irving’s shows always have a sci-fi element. This show was the first time Jack wanted all the girls the same, as though aliens had seen a picture of a woman and created the hair with a plastic finish. We were looking at ’50s B movies and the artwork from them. We also looked at old police mugshots, showing how real women had their hair – we didn’t want it to be a caricature or fancy dress taken from that era.”

“We worked for about six weeks on lots of different concepts and ideas, bouncing them back and forth in between me and Jack. We decided early on to have wigs. We took 10 different wigs and me and four assistants worked on them the day before the show.

“They had a double French pleat down the back and we created central parting. We made a fringe along the hairline and gelled into it, using the BaByliss PRO Italia BRAVA dryer and diffuser to set the gel. The BaByliss PRO Titanium Expression Ultimate Styler and 13mm Curling Tong were also used to style the fringe area before applying gel again and setting with the dryer and diffuser. The preparation is really key – I used L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.ART Pli to coax the hair into shape. I then sprayed L’Oréal Professionnel Infinium onto the backcombing brush, which gave it texture, and this is important for all beehives.

“If you look at the past season, there were beehives at the Moschino and Fendi couture shows – the retro feel is back. At Moschino they were really period, and Sam McKnight for Fendi made them textured, rough and ready. The beehive works for any age and any hair texture. There are so many directions to make it modern and contemporary.”

Imagery: L’Oreal Professionnel
Video: BaByliss PRO