Five barbering techniques to help hone your craft

Our Most Wanted Men’s Hair Specialist finalists are short hair experts; they share the techniques to set you up for success

Charlie Cullen

Razor cutting

Razor cutting can transform a look and when you have perfected the technique, it’s an essential to have in your back pocket. “A razor is such a great tool to use, especially when working with longer lengths of hair,” says barber and educator Charlie Cullen. “It’s perfect for creating soft edges and making a cut look more grown out – much cooler and effortless. The key to working with a razor is confidence, good tension on hair and firm wrist action when scooping the blade.”

Scissor over comb

A technique that many men’s hair specialists will be familiar with is using a scissor over comb for cutting. A “fundamental and essential technique” according to barber and TONY&GUY artistic director, Dexter Dapper Johnson, it’s one to master if you’re serious about working with short hair. “It is the art form of visually blending a shape together from short to long. Using just your scissors and an assortment of combs, this technique allows us to hide and disguise different aspects of the head.”

Your tools are an extension of your hands

Finding a familiarity and comfort with your tools is an important part of your barbering journey. After all, they will become an extension of your hand as you hone your craft. “Grasp them comfortably and ergonomically,” states barber and educator, Chris Foster. “The better the connection between hand and tool, the more precise and fluid your movements will be. In barbering, the dance between fingers and scissors defines the final look.”

Chris Foster

Rino Riccio

Consultation

While mastering cutting and techniques is half the battle, the real work begins with a consultation. As barber and head of education at Manifesto in Kings Cross, Rino Riccio has nailed the art of client consultations. “It’s so important that you and your client are on the same page prior to the appointment,” he explains. “You have to ask the right questions, they have to give their opinions, you have to give your recommendations, and they have to voice their concerns.”

This back-and-forth part of the consultation process is key to having a mutual understanding and communication. “This avoids any issues when you’ve completed the cut. You also must understand their routine – it’s an opportunity to up-sell any additional services and retail,” he adds. “In my opinion, the consultation really is essential to building the relationship with your client, which will also encourage them to return.”

Tariq Howes

Dexter Dapper Johnson

Make the most of your mirror

Salon owner and BaByliss Pro UK ambassador Tariq Howes champions using your mirror as a tool. “When you’re making guidelines, use the mirrors to check balance,” he says. “Whether I’m cutting with scissors, fading, or shaping up and creating outlines, I’m constantly using mirrors. I stand behind the head, looking at the shape and lines in the mirror. It’s always a good idea to use the mirror to cross check at the end of the cut as I find the mirror often shows any imperfections my eyes miss.”