Redken global creative director Guido Palau was still packing up his fashion week kit in Paris when we pinned him down to share his first thoughts on the S/S20 season. Here he highlights a few of the standout shows from the fashion week cities
New York – Marc Jacobs
“Marc celebrated individuality in his own way – very exuberant, very ’70s – but it was also about creating individual characters in a theatrical way. It was a lot of hard work, the fittings were very long. We worked through 60 looks, some were natural, some cut, some coloured by Josh Wood. We used Redken’s new Extreme Play Safe for heat protection.”
London – Christopher Kane
“At Christopher’s show he had more than 60 looks too and a lot of them were quite complex – different fabrics, textures and cuts. We needed to work out a way of doing simple hair, but adding a little something to it, a little attitude. We used Redken One United and Shine Flash 02 to get that intense shine, and left the back dry, to get that high fashion look but still retain the simplicity of a classic style. It also gave another take on boyish hair, and made the clothes look tougher.”
Milan – Versace
“When you work for Versace it’s always about the beautiful, sexy woman… but how do you do that today without it looking dated? We used half damp, dishevelled hair so it almost looked like she’d been caught in the rain, giving it an edge. We used Redken Triple Take 32 Hairspray for a high hold without any crunch. You then have the energy of a powerful woman without the cliche.”
Paris – Alexander McQueen
“At McQueen it was a romantic take inspired by pirates. We looked at 1850s portraiture. Little braids, little gold thread. It’s a very Sarah Burton aesthetic, very romantic – always beautiful, always with a touch of British sensibility. There were fishtail braids in the back, using Redken Guts 10 so that it looked a little damp, all twisted up with one long braid left out.”
Guido’s thoughts on…
“The word ‘vibe’ is better than ’trend’. There’s a boyishness that’s going around, an attitude. Even if there’s long hair it’s undone, centre-parted, not beachy but feels cool. We’ve been using new Redken Extreme Play Safe and blow-drying quickly.”
The return of the bob
“A lot of the models are cutting their hair into bobs – I don’t know what that’s about but I feel responsible for it! Someone said to me: “Well, you started it!” and I was like, “Did I?” I cut Bella Hadid’s and Kaia Gerber’s about two months ago... I think it’s about trying to be individual without having a layered cut.”
His favourite S/S20 look
“The models who didn’t wear the hats at Prada had a simple side-parting and a faux bob. It wasn’t that the hair felt revolutionary; I liked it because it was simple, easy but it had a lot of style. And that’s a difficult thing to do.”
It was iconic streetwear designer Demna Gvasalia’s final collection for the luxury French fashion label he founded. The setting, a Parisian McDonald’s. We caught up with Amy Fish, one of the Queens of Colour at Larry King salon, to reveal the backstage secrets of her colour work at Vetements S/S20...
The Vetements show is always the one to watch at Paris Fashion Week, and to get to work on it, with my assistant Bryony Cairns, was just extra special. I was also lucky to work side-by-side with super-talented session stylist Gary Gill and his team. The hair is always highly creative and fun – neon yellow, bright red, blue and neon green all stand out on the catwalk.
There was no real brief for the hair colour before the show. I just packed everything, which can be difficult when you want to include your whole dispensary into two suitcases! We arrived in Paris to prep the hair two days before so we would have plenty of time.
My favourite challenge is to create the perfect colour that meets the label’s precise vision. Everyone has a different concept of colour so it’s important that we are all on the same page.
There’s a lot of black hair involved, so it’s important to get the absolutely right tone. When you think ‘black hair’ you normally think of just one colour – that’s simple! But when you really look into it there are so many different variations, it’s not as easy as it seems...
Every hair has to be coloured but we can’t have any hairline stains, so precision is key.
The black hair has such an impact on the final look, as well as the other more vibrant colours you see on the runway. Being backstage at Vetements S/S20 was an experience I will cherish forever.