This ‘60s style might be on the trend horizon for 2024
A sophisticated, ‘60s silhouette, Priscilla Presley famously sported the bouffant in the iconic images from her wedding day. Following the premiere of filmmaker Sofia Coppola’s new biodrama, Priscilla, at New York Film Festival (set to be released in January), we sense a voluminous trend on the horizon.
After grabbing our crystal balls, we reached out to pros across the industry to find out if the bouffant is on its way back.
“It’s about undone glamour and texture that helps to emphasise facial shape and bone structure while providing glamour to your look,” says Mark Izzard, Francesco Hair Salon Creative Team member. “We are seeing a trend for voluminous hair coming into the salon and with the new Priscilla movie, I think we will see a lot more.”
As the bouncy blow-out continues to be a major hair trend on social, it’s no surprise that clients are looking for bigger hair. Now as the holiday season approaches, it’s going to be all go on the glam. “We are seeing much more definition and volume coiffed into glamourous couture shapes that look super elegant either whipped up and away from the face in a bouffant silhouette with the ‘50s inspiration. Alternatively, hair is backcombed on the crown to create maximum volume and hold,” explains Leonardo Rizzo of Sanrizz. “At Sanrizz, we are even seeing clients requesting a move back to the old-fashioned roller set and hood dryer, so it’s important we can all still work with the classic traditional, hairdressing techniques.”
As party season is just around the corner, Anita Rice, co-founder of Buller and Rice, is also turning her attention to more voluminous styles. “Using a traditional shape with maximum height on top but paired with a more natural soft texture is the perfect hair up choice for those sporting bottleneck bangs, curtain bangs or a Bardot fringe,” she shares.
You can rely on the rollers
Creative director Luke Benson is more sceptical about the return of the silhouette but admits it’s a common editorial feature that has crept back this season. “In my opinion the bouffant is far too much of a look from the era and I can’t see it catching on in the mainstream,” he states. “There may be nods to it at fashion week or in editorial but it’s almost too large of a shape for day to day,” Luke adds. “However, it’s useful to know the correct products and tools to achieve extra volume. A strong mousse and roller set will give you that vintage volume, then dress out the hair and use a good hairspray to give the hold to secure a shape.”
Similarly, technical educator at Salon Success, Victoria Panting, believes the right products are key to achieving the look. “Prep the hair well using either a mousse or volumising spray, Wunderbar vegan Power Up Texturizing Styling Mousse is a great option for this, paired with the Wunderbar Vegan Volume Up Medium Hold Setting Spray,” she says. “Use Velcro rollers to set the hair after round brush blow-drying to help get as much lift as possible, this will minimise how much back combing is needed.”
Get the right height
“The safest way to do this is to use a backcomb comb that has two layers of teeth,” advises Wella Professionals UK & Ireland colour trends ambassador, Jordanna Cobella. “That helps secure a backcomb. My top tip is to spray the hair with dry cleanser spray, dry shampoo, or texture spray first.”
“Section at the root and use small sections of the hair,” states Regis Salons creative director, Kieron Fowles. “Just tease the hair gently. If you’ve spent the time prepping your hair and created that solid foundation, you shouldn’t need to backcomb too much as you will have already created natural volume.”
Images: @kjfowles, Versace ‘La Vacanza’ 2023 Show
Emma Vickery of Percy & Reed seconds that technique. “Apply a texture spray to the hair before teasing and do not brush aggressively back and forth,” she says. “Push the comb into the hair from the middle of the hair, creating a C shape with even strokes, until you reach the base. My go-to tool is the Teasing Comb by YS Park, it’s made to specifically tease shape and create huge volume with three rows of teeth in the comb. Using this technique your client or model’s hair should be easy to de-tangle when being brushed out.”
Alternatively, volumising powders can be used to give good hold and volume. Founder of Stã Studios, Samantha Cusick says: “instead of aggressive backcombing, consider using volumising products and gentle teasing to create the desired effect – it gives your clients the glamour without the aftermath of detangling.”
Another product recommendation is the Shaper Zero Gravity by Sebastian Professional. “This product is a lightweight hairspray with great hold and it also makes the hair easy to brush out,” says colour specialist, Joanne Roe of KH Hair in Leicester.