What you need to know about colour and textured hair

Lisa Farrall of Wig London Academy talks colour and texture against the backdrop of her collection, Spectrum

“CHEMICALS DONT KILL HAIR, PEOPLE DO”

“That’s my favourite quote to use with clients! Education is key and for the best results it’s important to do your homework. I always find the consultation the most important part of the colouring process; not only does your client require a skin test but also in that initial meeting, it’s all about client expectations and what can be achieved. I always ask ‘what do you not like?’ This helps us to get to the picture of what they want more clearly.

“When colouring relaxed hair, you need to be very careful with harsh products such as bleach as this can cause the hair to break. During a consultation I like to discuss with the client realistic options and what is achievable, but more importantly, what the hair will allow me to do. It’s okay to say a colour isn’t achievable, but instead discuss a hair journey plan to get the desired result after a period of time.

“I often colour hair wefts and weave these into clients’ hair if I’m afraid of the hair condition. It’s a great alternative to putting chemicals on the hair. Once hair is relaxed, it’s important to carry out hair tests and wait at least two weeks before colouring hair as the scalp can be sensitive. If there are any signs of hair breakage, don’t colour!

“One of the most common mistakes hairdressers make is saying ‘yes’ – unrealistic expectations only lead to disappointment and a unhappy client. Be honest, they can take it and they will deserve it! If you have a stubborn client that won’t take no for an answer, show them evidence – they quickly change their mind when they can see from a strand test what damage will be caused!

“You can achieve lighter hair but you need to do this slowly, depending on the hair texture. I’ve had clients that want a full platinum crop and that’s okay, as you’re taking the hair short. But I’ve also got clients with curly hair that I lift lighter each visit, as I don’t want to compromise that curl pattern. Over-processing can lead to curls dropping and a uneven curl, which isn’t a good look. In a colouring journey, treatments are key to maintaining healthy locks, so be clear on the upkeep to you clients.

“When colouring curly hair, I like to use a technique called Curly Coil Placement. I use different shades to colour individual curls. When using this technique, it’s important to test the hair but also to blend the colour, as you don’t want any harsh lines. With the placement I use the colour to contour, using colour in specific areas around the face to highlight and darker shades throughout to add depth and create a fuller curl.

“I’m on a mission to make the industry texture neutral and that’s why I created my academy WIG LONDON. I have created courses specifically for hairdressers to learn how to work with textured hair in the salon. No more turning clients away; it’s time we take a stand and educate ourselves on all hair types. Don’t be scared, your journey is just starting. Our educators come to your salon and show you how to increase clients coming through your door and, most importantly, educate you on how to conquer Afro and mixed hair because we all want hair equality, right?!”

Credits:
HAIR and CONCEPT: LISA FARRALL for WIG LONDON
PHOTOGRAPHY: LUKE NUGENT
MAKE-UP: SUHYUN KANG for WIG LONDON
STYLING: AC STUDIO

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