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Jaws on the floor

Fusing extreme pastels with a commercial finish for clients, guest PAINTER Lexie Shay Rabbett shares all about her latest colour creation


Lexi Shay Rabbett

“So… technique time! I want to show you a technique that myself and fellow Riot Squad member, Christabel, did for a collection not too long ago. It’s a play on a technique that is found on the Pulpriot.tv website, which is a 100% free education site for everyone. This technique, called ‘Jawbreaker’, was originally created was by Kasey O’Hara. 

Lately I have been obsessed with muted tones, extreme pastels and counteracting tones. I love bright rainbow hair, but I also like to make it appealing to the everyday client base.

The Formula

Here are the formulas, working in the ROYGBV pattern (basing every formula with Mercury instead of clear, which is the pastel silver tone). Always start with the lightest shade first, then add depth.

F1 – Mercury + Blush + Cupid
F2 – Mercury + Clear + Lemon + Cupid
F3 – Mercury + Clear + Lemon
F4 – Mercury + Area 51 + dot of Absinthe
F5 – Mercury + Blue Muse + dot of Nightfall
F6 – Mercury + Lilac + Velvet
F7 – ( End colour ) Mercury + Clear + Smoke

The Technique

Step one: Firstly cleansed out by fellow Riot Squad member Hannah, using​ ​#blondeAF + 20vol.

Step two: Pre-toned with Icy and Natural High Speed Toner. The High Speed Toners were designed to create that perfect canvas after lightening, and before any semi-permanent service.

Step three: Developed for between 5-20 minutes. The toner offers a shorter development time but with the same (or longer) longevity as other toners. Developed with wither 6 vol or 10 vol, these toners create endless possibilities. Don’t forget – these toners are alkaline based, so they will  lift natural hair!

Step four: Instead of doing a full ‘Jawbreaker” technique roots to ends with our model. We focused attention at the roots about 3-4 inches down, melting into a silver based tone.

Sectioning

Part the hair from wherever the client’s hair naturally parts down over the crown to middle nape. Work on diagonal back sections from front hairline in roughly half inch sections, starting with the F1 formulation.

Alternatively, start with whichever shade the client wishes to start from but always follow theROYGBV pattern, continue until you join at nape.

Develop for 20-45 minutes. The longer the development time, the longer the colour will last.

Rinse with cool water. There’s no need to condition, as these colours are conditioner based – it does it for you! Filled with natural vegan ingredients, such as quinoa (gluten-free seed, with mild rebuilding properties). This old chestnut repairs and nourishes hair while it’s doing its thang!”

See more from our PAINTER Lexie >