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Peachy Keen

Top image: Marc Jacobs, SS19. Photographed by James Cochrane

S/S19 saw a riot of colour across the runways. Redken creative color director Josh Wood tells us what to expect more of.

Outliers: What are the S/S19 hair colour trends salons need to be ready for?

Josh Wood: Colour has become a huge talking point, it’s almost like colour is a trend in itself. From the pale pastels we created at Marc Jacobs to the intense reds at Miu Miu, it’s firmly on the calendar for spring. I think more tonal shades are the thing to watch out for; the new Color Gels Lacquers from Redken help to give me intense colours that are bright yet realistic and multi-dimensional.

O: What got the biggest reaction of the colour looks you created for S/S19?

JW: The sophisticated pastels at Marc Jacobs were the looks everyone was talking about. The sheer scale and number of different tones were quite arresting on the catwalk – we coloured 37 models.

O: We’re seeing more colour than ever on the runway – what’s changed?

JW: Designers are thinking more in terms of colour. I work with Redken global creative director Guido Palau and he really understands and values what hair colour can contribute to a look. He works in an inclusive way, which helps to make colour more available to Runway looks. With the extensive portfolio of products from Redken I can fulfil colour briefs exactly; from Redken City Beats all the way through to Shades EQ, there’s an array of tones and density of colours to play with.

O: What was your favourite technique from the shows?

JW: A show that was very technique-heavy was Valentino Couture. We created larger-than-life hairstyles, where each wig needed to be matched to the model’s hair exactly, with all the natural highs and lows and the fade towards the ends. We had 50 models to colour, most of them with different starting points of colour.

Central image: Marc Jacobs, SS19. Photographed by James Cochrane

O: What were your three biggest show highlights from the season?

JW: Definitely the vintage pastels at Marc Jacobs, the next-level natural at Riccardo Tisci’s Burberry and Miu Miu’s bold reds.

O: What were the main challenges backstage for you and your team?

JW: Time, team and budgets. We are often called in at the last minute – sometimes just hours before the show – so working effectively and precisely is paramount to me. Trying to get the right talent in the right place can be a logistical nightmare; when we have multiple teams in different locations it can be really challenging. And I have to be everywhere, which I couldn’t do without the support of my team, especially Mads-Sune Lund Christensen, my first assistant and 2018 It List Fashionista winner. The process of finalising costs and production again are a huge challenge. My PA, Paul Smith, works relentlessly to make these creative projects run smoothly. He works very closely with my agents at Streeters to deliver the best creative looks and interpretation of a designer’s vision.

O: Which Redken colour products did you use the most this season?

JW: It was a real mix. Some days it was Redken Flash Lift, sometimes Color Gels Lacquers or Shades EQ and some days it was City Beats.