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T LEVEL DROPPED FOR HAIR AND BARBERING

T LEVEL DROPPED FOR HAIR AND BARBERING

T LEVEL DROPPED FOR HAIR AND BARBERING

Government confirms decision following employer feedback

The government has announced that it will not be introducing the Hairdressing, Barbering and Beauty Therapy (HBBT) T Level to the hair sector and will not be pursuing hair or barbering specialisms in future T Levels. 

In a move welcomed by the National Hair & Beauty Federation, the government made the decision following feedback from employers in hairdressing and barbering. They have argued that the best route for learners into their industry is through completion of an existing apprenticeship, or through a Level 2 classroom-based provision that will get them into the salon faster than a two-year Level 3 programme. 

The decision not to roll out the HBBT T Level will also mean that, from September 2024, there will also be no T Level Foundation Year for the hair and beauty route.  

However, in beauty, the sector told the government that a good quality Level 3 classroom-based progression route is desirable. Therefore, the government has announced it will explore introducing a T Level which focuses on the beauty sector, with an emphasis on science, with an expectation that this could be introduced after 2025.  

Level 2 will continue as planned with the development of technical qualifications which are aligned to relevant standards in hair and beauty and will provide a classroom-based alternative to the apprenticeship. These technical qualifications would be available for teaching from September 2026.  

The NHBF has been informed that while there will be a development in technical qualifications against relevant hairdressing standards at Level 3 this area will not be reformed until at least 2027. In the meantime, the Department for Education will continue to fund existing qualifications, which means that learners can continue to be enrolled on to existing provision.  

Caroline Larissey, NHBF chief executive, said: “Following several meetings, where we outlined the concerns of our Members, we are pleased that the Minister has listened and taken on board our recommendations to support our sector, by focusing on a Beauty T Level and no longer introducing a combined Hairdressing, Barbering and Beauty Therapy T Level.”  

“Employers from hair salons and barbershops will always prefer that a prospective employee should enter the sector via a “job ready” route or qualification, such as an apprenticeship or through an equivalent college-based Level 2 qualification.” 

The government says it is taking steps to raise standards and funding for apprenticeships to ensure high quality training provision, working with hair employers to potentially improve assessment for the Level 2 Hair Professional apprenticeship, which, together with the funding uplift, aims to increase quality and completion rates. 

There was a 57 per cent funding uplift for the Level 2 Hairdressing Professional standard (from £7,000 to £11,000) last year, with a 28 per cent funding uplift for the Level 2 Barbering apprenticeship (from £7,000 to £9,000).  

Alongside this, it is also working with employers via the Hair Professional Apprenticeship Steering group, supported by the NHBF, to review the Level 3 Advanced and Creative Hair Professional Occupational Standard and apprenticeship. This review will ensure that the apprenticeship continues to meet employer needs, and supports progression from Level 2, ensuring hair professionals can build lasting careers in the sector. 

The update follows the Secretary of State for Education’s announcement in March 2023 of the decision to delay the delivery of the Hairdressing, Barbering and Beauty Therapy (HBBT) T Level to September 2024. It had originally been slated to start in September 2024.

THE HOT TOPICS FOR FREELANCERS RIGHT NOW

THE HOT TOPICS FOR FREELANCERS RIGHT NOW

THE HOT TOPICS FOR FREELANCERS RIGHT NOW

The FHA’s Sheila Abrahams covers the pressing issues facing freelancers and offers some words of advice

The hairdressing industry is always shifting, and it’s no different for freelance stylists. Here, Sheila Abrahams, (pictured above), founder of the Freelance Hairdressers Association, spotlights the pain points for freelancers right now and offers words of advice and support.

Mislabelling freelancers

In the realm of hairdressing, many professionals prefer to be recognised as freelancers or independents rather than “home hairdressers.” Some of us travel to clients’ homes due to various reasons, because they have medical conditions, transportation limitations, are professionals who work from home, or are busy mums and dads who are strapped for time. Other stylists have transformed spaces like rooms, garages, or garden studios into fabulous salons. Freelancers might rent space, use pods or chairs, or even work under major brands and colour houses. Despite this diversity, some still label us as home hairdressers, even though renowned salon names also operate as freelancers for brands. The key distinction is that we don’t employ staff.

Brands moving to the high street

Recent discussions centre on brands moving to the high street. We aim to keep our members positive and focused. If you retail products within your business, it’s important not to worry about external developments. Concentrate on honing your skills and knowledge with the trusted brands you use and guide your clients with the best haircare solutions. While clients may seek bargains, they often lack product knowledge and guidance, which can lead to less-than-ideal outcomes.

Business independence and disguised employment

It’s crucial to educate our members that their business within a salon or barbershop must remain entirely separate from the umbrella they operate under. Regardless of whether you’re self-employed, a sole trader, or a limited company, you manage your booking system, handle bills via your own till system or card machine and provide your products and equipment. Your prices, hours, and vacation plans should not be dictated by others. If you need legal advice, the FHA offers a legal advice line to assist you.

Navigating Covid concerns

COVID-19 has once again become a pressing topic in our community. Questions arise about skin testing after experiencing Covid or receiving the Covid jab, and whether it’s appropriate to request mask-wearing from clients. Given the limited Covid regulations, our advice is to follow your instincts. If you wish to wear a mask, do so. If clients have received a Covid injection, adhere to previous rules of skin testing before applying colour. Given the increasing reports of reactions post-Covid or vaccinations, erring on the side of caution is advisable.

Handling booking fees and deposits

An ongoing concern revolves around booking fees or deposits due to the increasing incidence of no-shows and last-minute cancellations. We advise our members to ensure transparency. If you opt to charge a booking fee, it should be clearly communicated in writing and enforced for cancellations within a 24/48-hour window. This policy can be included on your website, in appointment confirmation emails, or text messages, ensuring that clients understand the terms and have a copy for reference in case of earnings loss.The percentage of freelancers in the industry is on the rise, coinciding with more salons unfortunately closing their doors. Social media abounds with newcomers seeking guidance on insurance, groups, and education. The FHA offers bespoke insurance tailored to our ever-growing industry and unparalleled opportunities to collaborate with top brands in colour and styling. We provide hands-on training, bursaries, zoom education, local meetups, and a supportive community through our staff room chat room. While freelancers may work independently, we stand together, offering technical advice and guidance. Our goal is to mentor new freelancers and provide insights into establishing their businesses.

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MIX AND MATCH BRAIDS AT V&A’S FASHION IN MOTION: MINJU KIM

MIX AND MATCH BRAIDS AT V&A’S FASHION IN MOTION: MINJU KIM

MIX AND MATCH BRAIDS AT V&A’S FASHION IN MOTION: MINJU KIM

Hair lead Andrea Daley shares how she created the polished but not perfected look.

The V&A’s Fashion in Motion shows make catwalk couture accessible to a wider audience. Elegantly set against the backdrop of the museum, the ongoing series of catwalk have spotlighted work from some of the greatest designers of our time. In the most recent event, the inaugural winner of Netflix’s Next In Fashion, Korea based designer Minju Kim, shared a glimpse into her joyful, bold style. In a cohesive symphony of youthful playfulness and avant-garde haute couture, Minju’s signature style delivered bold shapes complimented by feminine characteristics.  

In partnership with L’Oréal Professionnel Paris, the hair team was led by Andrea Daley, who created bespoke styles for each model. Inspired by macramé and Korean knots, the core look featured micro-braiding, knots and twisted detailing combined to give a little edge to girly styles.  

“The styles are adaptable for most hair lengths and textures,” says Andrea. “The ‘mix and match’ braids allow for multiple styles from one look and work as a perfect hair up for festivals too.” 

Get the look 

Step one: Prep the hair using L’Oréal Professionnel Paris TECNI.ART Pli to give a mailable texture without compromising on shine. 

Step two: Part the hair in the centre, from hairline to nape.  

Step three: Subdivide the back into four sections (top right finishing just above the ear, top left just to the middle of the ear). Ensure the partings are obviously asymmetric to recreate the look. 

Step four: Split the right-hand side into two ponytails. The top should be high, with the lower one secured at the nape to exaggerate the difference in balance.  

Step five: Now, twist the top ponytail into a short rope braid with the majority of the length left out.  

Step six: Plait the below ponytail and intertwine the length of the rope twist. 

Step seven: On the left-hand side, scalp braid from the hairline to the middle of the ear and then plait.  

Step eight: Then, braid the below section into a skinny plait. 

Step nine: In front of the ear and on the hairline, loosely release the baby hair using the palm of your hand for a softer edge.  

Step 10: Finally, smooth the tails of each braid and the loose hairlines using the L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Steampod for a glass-like finish. 

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GET THE LOOK – HAIR BARCODING FOR KWK BY KAY KWOK S/S24

GET THE LOOK – HAIR BARCODING FOR KWK BY KAY KWOK S/S24

GET THE LOOK – HAIR BARCODING FOR KWK BY KAY KWOK S/S24

The inside spin on session stylist Nick Irwin’s otherworldly look for the futuristic designer.

Kay Kwok is a Hong Kong fashion designer known for his futuristic and contemporary designs. He combines avant-garde fashion with digital influences to create an unconventional aesthetic, perfectly exampled by a 3D-printed custom-made art piece designed for Beyoncé’s Renaissance tour.

His first time working with Kay Kwok, this season Nick Irwin transported us to another planet with a futuristic hair look centred around the concept of hair barcoding. The idea behind the show was to tap into Kay’s references towards futurism, while also maintaining the individuality of each model. With this in mind, Nick and his team were able to craft an almost barcode-like effect using a gelled strip placed in certain areas of each model’s hair. 

The Session Label hero products

The Jelly
“We’ve set the hair with a great product called The Jelly, which gives you a glossy, almost plastic, futuristic feel with the finish. It’s a lightweight gel that you can comb and manipulate the hair with.”

The Coat
“The Coat is a super, super light shine spray. If you use lots of it and spray close to the head, it makes the hair super glossy. We’ve used that with a wide-tooth comb over the surface to a give an almost barcode-like feel to the hair.”

The Strong
“To make the hair hold in the area we’ve added the gel strip, we use The Strong – a super strong hold hairspray.” 

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GET THE LOOK – SPORTS LUXE AT CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS

GET THE LOOK – SPORTS LUXE AT CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS

GET THE LOOK: SPORTS LUXE

At the annual Central Saint Martins White Show, sports luxe styling reigned supreme. Hair lead Clare Hansford shares how she created the wonderful wet-look

BA Fashion students at Central Saint Martins delivered a high energy, high impact catwalk for the annual White Show in December. ‘Sport is our fashion’ was the brief for Clare Hansford of Headmasters, who led the L’Oréal Professionnel Paris hair team. Working with ID Artists and team members from Portfolio salons, collectively they created looks for 140 models with just three hours prep time.

Hair was treated to look sweaty and damp. Depending on what the model was wearing and the hair type, with varying levels of product to reflect how hair can look during sporting activities End results ranged from damp curls around the face to a soaking, wet look finish reminiscent of “playing squash for two hours,” Clare said. Forget your next gym class, this is all the sporting action you need!

As the theme was ‘fashion is our sport’ the hair was treated to look sweaty and damp. Clare and the team created a really high gloss, high shine for a really sweaty look, or something with less product that embraced natural hair at the back but with gel round the front for a glistening hair line. Depending on the model’s hair type and what would work best with the outfit, some had tendrils and waves clinging to the skin, and for others a very high ponytail or braids, but all had a high-shine, glistening ‘sweaty’ hairline.

The hair was prepped with a diluted mix of L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Tecni.ART Fix Max Gel and about a third of water for more pliability. This was great to work with on thicker hair, as made hair easier to work with while also being hydrating. For Afro models, Clare used L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Curl Expression Curls Reviver to detangle and hydrate without weighing down the hair. Finally, any fringes or ponytails were sprayed with a little L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Tecni.ART Fix Design gel spray for a glistening finish.

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