Fashion Trade Union Report Reveals Low Pay and Job Insecurity

Session stylists among those sharing experiences of unpaid overtime, late payments and toxic working environments

by AMANDA | INFORM

Just 14 per cent of fashion creatives are paid on time for the work they do and eight in 10 feel pressured to work for free. These are some of the damning findings in Fashion UK’s State of the Sector report, based on responses from more than 500 fashion creatives working in the UK, including hair stylists, make-up artists, nail technicians, fashion and accessories designers, photographers, fashion stylists, tailors and their assistants.

Fashion UK is the UK’s first trade union branch for fashion creatives – part of Bectu, the long-established union representing staff, contract and freelance workers in the media and entertainment industries – with vocal supporters including legendary session stylist Sam McKnight. While the British Fashion Council estimates that the fashion industry contributes £37 billion to the UK economy, the report illustrates the insecure working conditions of many fashion creatives, showcasing a story low – or no – pay and toxic working environments.

Fashion creatives from Black and minoritised ethnic backgrounds were more likely to be in low-paid work and to have experienced workplace discrimination than their white counterparts. More than a third are forced to supplement their income with non-fashion work.

Responses from 525 fashion creatives spoke about the inherent insecurity in the industry, reporting frequent job cancellations and late payments. Nearly a third (31 per cent) of fashion creatives said they don’t see themselves in the industry in five years’ time.

The key findings included:
• Just one in 10 fashion creatives (10 per cent) say they feel secure in their job.
• Only 14 per cent are paid on time for the work they do.
• Half (51 per cent) of fashion creatives are earning under £30,000 a year before tax from their work in the industry.
• More than seven in 10 have struggled financially (72 per cent) in the past year
• Eight in 10 (79 per cent) have felt pressured to work for free.
• And 83 per cent say that behaviours that would be considered toxic and inappropriate in public life are often tolerated in the fashion industry.

Fashion UK is now working on a two-part Guide to Good Practice, aimed at employers and creatives themselves, to help standardise hiring practices, terms and conditions in the industry. It will also help inform creatives about how to check their contract and terms, and advise on how to chase payments, among addressing other issues.

“It is very clear that fashion has a culture problem,” said head of Bectu, Philippa Childs. “From workers facing psychological abuse and unreasonable demands, to excessive hours and no or little pay, no one should have to put up with these conditions to ‘make it’ in an industry.”