From Passion to Possibilities
How Wella’s Passionistas program inspires, educates and elevates freelancer, Heather Robertson
Every year, thousands (around 40,000, to be exact) of hairdressers from China, Japan, Malaysia, South Korea and beyond descend upon Shanghai for the Asian Hairdesigner Festival. This incredible three-day event, a riot of shows, seminars, shopping and feasting, is organised by the Asian Hairdesigner Association (AHA) as a showcase of the new hair trends and techniques from amongst its illustrious members. Alsoring featu in this year’s line-up, as guests of AHA founder Eric Zhao, were Errol Douglas MBE, plus colourist Christel Barron-Hough and her photographer husband Alex, co-owners of Chelsea salon STIL. Both teams delivered a seminar and show that injected a shot of London cool into the mix. Creative HEAD was in the audience…
What made you accept an invitation to appear at the AHF in Shanghai?
Alex: This was an opportunity for Christel and me to come together to create something specifically for STIL – a photographic collection and a film that would then feed into a seminar at the AHF. It felt very different to when we both work for other brands, and we have to work to their brief. This was a blank canvas for us to get creative and push our boundaries.
You created an incredible photographic collection and film for your trip, which featured a collaboration with session stylist Nick Irwin. How did you incorporate his ideas into your work?
Christel: I’m inspired by Scandinavian film-making and the interplay between light and dark, which directors such as Ingmar Bergman use for dramatic effect. I wanted the collection to play around with shadow and blurring, so it reflected that landscape. Nick was very excited by the looks we wanted to create and added his spin by making things a bit more editorial, not-so-perfect looking, so the wigs were placed so they obviously looked like wigs, for example.
While in Shanghai you had to rely on a team of assistants you’d never met before. How did this impact on your prep?
Christel: Often when you work on shows abroad these days you will inherit a local support team and sometimes the language barrier can be a challenge. But the beauty with hairdressing is that we all speak the same language when it comes to creating looks and styles. The team in Shanghai were absolutely fantastic – talented, lots of attention to detail and incredibly hardworking, which made our experience very pleasant and enjoyable.
Talk us through the looks you showcased during your seminar…
Christel: I chose to do one look that was quite creative and inspired by fashion and another that was more commercial but that also had personality through creative colour. We do a lot of Scandi-bobs in the salon because they’re so wearable, but the creative placement of the fuchsia shades brought out a more playful side and hopefully gave inspiration to the audience. My second look, featuring a mesh that I melded onto the head, is something I’ve seen Eugene Souleiman create a version of, but I had watched a documentary about hat-making and I found it interesting because they were talking about silhouette and sculpting. So that’s what inspired me to show something that played around with different textures, with the top super-sleek and the hair a bit more deconstructed at the back and a mesh in different colours sculpted onto the head to keep everything super-tight. But this was also about colour placement because I wanted to continue the theme from our photo-collection of things working but also not working at the same time, so I left the roots, kept the ends really bright and chose the red to contrast with the pink and yellow of the mesh.
And then came the show… It brought the house down!
Christel: The show was driven by the original creative shoot that was shot in London. We presented a total of five models and the concept was highly focused on personality and colour, which was complemented by the content playing on the screens.
Alex: We knew the film was going to play out on a series of enormous, curved screens on the night of the show, so we decided to showcase each look as if it were a portrait. We filmed each model in really slow motion because we wanted the audience to think that each portrait was a still image before realising that tiny details were moving. We wanted the film really to draw people in and create a more immersive experience. And it was also a feast of colour because we had different models on different screens – there was stuff that was yellow, stuff that was orange, there was colour everywhere. Opening your brand up to new territories and markets is always positive, especially to your peers and the trade press. It’s important for to share our concept and vision for our brand outside of the UK. With our backgrounds in education and production/image making this is a great platform to bring it all together and share what inspires us at STIL.
Shanghai is a long way from London! Why did you make the trip?
When I got the invitation from Eric Zhao, I didn’t hesitate. The AHF is one of the most successful gatherings of hairdressers in this region, it’s been going since 2006 so it has a really successful heritage. Even though I have lots of clients who come from China, and I know a lot of hairdressers in the country, I’d never been before. When the chance came up, it was a ‘Hell yes!’
How did you go about deciding on the theme and content for your seminar and show? What ideas did you want to share with the audience?
My show was called Motions and is loosely based on my most recent photographic collection – Frame. We pushed the ideas that were born in Frame to the extreme, so they had maximum impact on the stage, translating the hair looks I’d created and reinventing them for a live show.
You used some incredible outfits on your models. How did this come about and how important is it that every detail reflects your brand?
It’s impossible to separate hair from fashion when you’re creating a show. Every detail reflects an overall look and it’s so important to make sure every element is totally cohesive. I wouldn’t necessarily say the Errol Douglas brand has a definitive ‘look’ because for us, it’s about always evolving and adapting, reacting to trends and interpreting them in our own unique vision. For this show, I worked with Christina Davies, a highly acclaimed designer from Central St Martins who I’ve been collaborating with recently. She’s really going places. Her instinct for fabric, fluidity and texture brought to life with body-sculpting clothes and knitwear has a real contemporary feel.
Talk us through the looks you showcased during your seminar…
During the seminar, I wanted to demonstrate two of the looks I’d be presenting in my show and how I bring those very futuristic, avant-garde concepts to life. It’s important for me as an educator to make sure people can see and understand my vision. Step one is the foundations of the looks, so before anything, I talk through the structure needed to hold the hair. The starting point for the seminar was right back to basics, demonstrating how you create a corn roll that forms the base to sew in the hair. I worked intricately with hair pieces, which were made specially for the show and included hours of pre-show work. The main way I make the hair maintain a realistic edge is I don’t use too many pins, choosing instead to mainly weave or sew the pieces together. Also in the seminar, I taught how visually to create a shape, plus the importance of pre-planning and always stepping away from your model to check the shape is coming together how you want it. You should never create a hairstyle that just gets placed on without thinking how it suits the model and you also have to make sure you’re using appropriate products for the prep.
… And the looks for the show…
During the seminar, I’d already demonstrated the techniques of two of the looks, which we then recreated in a bolder, stronger way and stepped things up a notch to create drama and a spectacular vision for the evening gala show. Overall, I was really pleased with how it all came together. The looks were super dramatic, incorporating extreme flowing lengths and bold, eye-catching colours in crushed pink and a striking azure blue. You have to be super careful with placements when you’re doing colour fades. It’s not easy to do and all the hair pieces were sewn in by hand.
Which part of the show/seminar gave you personally the most creative satisfaction? Was it a particular moment, or did you find the whole process creatively satisfying?
There’s definitely something satisfying about the whole process of designing and staging a show. Bringing a small, creative vision to life on a huge stage to a global audience is hard to beat. There’s not really a moment to sit back and enjoy the show yourself as it’s so busy backstage getting the models prepped and out on the runway, but it is a great feeling when you take to the stage yourself at the end, seeing the happy faces and soaking up the applause. For me too, it’s a great buzz when you know your models feel amazing – you can see it in their faces and how they walk. That satisfaction of ‘it’s done’ and knowing that we’d executed the show beautifully without a foot wrong, was my highlight.
How do appearances like this help build the Errol Douglas brand?
They help massively. Errol Douglas is an international brand and I’ve always been dedicated to sharing the amazing reputation of UK hairdressing around the world. This year alone I’ve taken part in major shows in Australia, Portugal and Korea. Each country I’ve ever visited has its own take on their homegrown industry and I love learning and taking elements away with each new experience, in turn sharing my experiences and knowledge too. Being curious and interested is the secret to staying power, it’s a big world out there and there’s so much to learn from it.
Samantha Cusick
Conor James Doyle
The first in a series of free educational events, award-winning hairdressers Samantha Cusick and Conor James Doyle joined forces for Stā Social – a social media masterclass for hairdressers looking to level up their content. Following the event, Creative HEAD chatted to the dynamic duo about their relationships with social media and what they’ve learned about building a following.
Talk us through your relationship with social media – how has it transformed the way you work?
I have a genuine love to create content and share knowledge with others and social media is the best avenue for this. Social media has completely revolutionised the way I approach my work. Before, it was all about word-of-mouth and local advertising, but now I can showcase my work to a global audience in real-time. It’s like having a portfolio that’s constantly updated and always accessible. Social media has allowed me to build a community, engage with clients on a more personal level, and attract new business – be that clients or attracting the attention of brands – which has led to paid ambassador roles. The instant feedback and interaction I get through platforms like Instagram and Facebook have also helped me stay on top of trends and continuously improve my skills.
What would you say is your favourite platform, and why?
Instagram is hands down my favourite platform. As a visual person, it’s the perfect place to showcase my work. The platform is designed for sharing beautiful images and videos, and that’s what my business is all about. The ability to reach people with just a hashtag or location tag is incredibly powerful. Plus, Instagram Stories and Reels have added an easy way to engage with my audience, giving them a behind-the-scenes look at my life as a hairdresser and business owner, which they love.
As well as the benefits, what would you say are some of the pitfalls or common misconceptions?
One common misconception is that social media success happens overnight. It takes a lot of time, consistency, and effort to build a following and create content that resonates with your audience. Another pitfall is the pressure to constantly produce perfect content, which can be overwhelming and lead to burnout. It’s important to remember that social media should be a tool to enhance your business, not a source of stress. Being authentic and sharing real moments, even the imperfect ones, can actually strengthen your connection with your clients and audience.
If there was one thing you’d wish you had done differently when building your profiles, what would it be?
I wish I had started engaging with my audience more from the beginning. When I first started, I was so focused on posting content that I didn’t prioritise responding to comments and messages as much as I should have. Building a community is just as important as showcasing your work, and it’s something I’ve really focused on improving. Engagement is key to growing your presence and turning followers into loyal clients. I used to think it was all about growing my follower count but actually engagement is the most important.
One common complaint we hear is the time involved with capturing, editing, and posting content. What would your advice be to fellow hair pros with not enough hours in the day?
I totally get it—creating content can be incredibly time-consuming. My advice is to batch your content creation. Set aside specific times during the week to capture photos and videos, and then use scheduling tools to post them. This way, you’re not constantly interrupted by the need to create content on the everyday. I also make sure I use each client I do to make multiple pieces of content, think beyond the usual before and after and capture things like your consultation process, the colouring process, styling etc. Each step can be its own piece of content, building you a library of incredibly low-effort content that will do well and give value to the viewer. Also, don’t be afraid to repurpose older content or share user-generated content from your clients. It’s a great way to keep your feed active without spending hours every day on it.
When social can be so all-consuming, what are your top tips for setting boundaries and managing a work/life balance?
It’s so important to set boundaries with social media to avoid burnout. I’m a big believer in time blocking – set aside specific times in your calendar to edit and schedule your content as well as designating specific times for checking and posting on social media, rather than being on it all day. I also make it a point to unplug from my devices during personal time. It’s okay to take breaks from social media – your audience will understand, if you’re comfortable sharing that, honesty and authenticity really resonates with people. Remember, your mental health and well-being should always come first. Being mindful of the time you spend online will help you maintain a healthy work/life balance while still growing your business. I think it’s important to add as well that you shouldn’t compare yourself to others online, I used to fall prey to this and it was super damaging to my mental health, just be you and share what you feel is right for your business.
Talk us through your relationships with social media – how has it transformed the way you work?
Social media has changed how I work mostly through reach. I’m from a small town in Ireland, there’s no way I would have reached the opportunities I’ve had in LA, Australia, Europe and the UK if not for the audience I’ve connected with internationally online. I don’t even think it’s to do with the numbers but the connections I’ve made.
What would you say is your favourite platform, and why?
Personally, I prefer Instagram. TikTok is great for reach and discovery of new people, but I think it cannot foster a connection with your audience. Instagram is somewhere you can get to know and nurture your community.
As well as the benefits, what would you say are some of the pitfalls or common misconceptions?
The main misconception is that big numbers = success. I know many creators with huge followings who struggle to monetise it. Your following is like a little garden you create. Success and prosperity rely on how you tend to it and how consistent you are. If you just focus on expansion the whole thing can fall apart.
If there was one thing you’d wish you had done differently when building your profiles differently, what would it be?
Realise what my audience is really looking for instead of overcomplicating things and pushing out what I ‘thought’ they wanted based on seeing other creators. So many times, I’ve lost myself and point of view but ultimately I don’t regret that either. These mistakes help give us clarity and direction when navigating back to ourselves. When you’re on the right track it’s a feeling, you just kind of know.
One common complaint we hear is the time involved with capturing, editing and posting content, what would your advice be to fellow hair pros with not enough hours in the day?
Stop overcomplicating and start maximising. I really only do hair 2-3 times a month and when I have those clients in, the second I see a nice aesthetic shot I shoot. I bank a load of these throughout the service, sometimes only 3-5 seconds long. I’ll share some text or a helpful tip and that’s it. I also will recycle a lot and assemble them to create longer-form pieces with a different angle.
When social can be so all-consuming, what are your top tips for setting boundaries and managing a work/life balance?
Avoid checking first thing in the morning; if it’s your first hit of dopamine it tells your brain this is the most important source, and you will check it more during the day with more of a sense of urgency. Don’t take it to bed with you either. Treat it like your office or workspace and log off as you would work. Easier said than done and that’s why having a separate phone with zero social media has been a game changer for me. I leave my work phone in a separate room.
Also, a final note; forget the algorithm. If social is getting you down, take a break. It’s fine to go. It’s when most of your fresh ideas will flourish.
How Wella’s Passionistas program inspires, educates and elevates freelancer, Heather Robertson
Should pro hair brands cut out the hair pro and sell direct to the consumer? Darren Potter doesn’t think so.
Things have come a long way since Dirty Dancing’s Jon and Baby mega-curly numbers
As we transition into autumn 2024, hair trends are focusing on blending cosiness, elegance, and practicality. According to Tom Smith, a renowned hair expert, this season’s haircuts are all about maintaining health and authenticity while embracing styles that transition seamlessly into cooler months. According to Tom, this season emphasises “health and wealth signalling,” with longer styles taking centre stage. Whether your clients are seeking a subtle update or a more defined, structured look, this season’s trends offer versatility and personalisation.
“There’s a cosiness in the shapes we’re seeing this autumn,” says Tom, who explains that this season’s looks will favour longer, healthier hair and more manageable styles.
Autumn brings a shift towards longer hairstyles and more practical, yet fashion-forward looks. According to Tom, there’s a “real lack of very short hair” in the current trends. Instead, we’re seeing an emphasis on maintaining healthy hair at various lengths, whether chin-length bobs or waist-length locks. He notes, thanks to innovations in haircare products, many have welcomed the choice to wear their hair longer to signal “health and wealth.”
Sabrina Carpenter styled by Laurie Heaps (@_hairbylaurie)
One style making a significant return is curtain bangs, offering a voluminous, face-framing look that brings softness and warmth. Although we won’t be leaving it behind, Tom highlights the appeal of this style in the cooler months, noting that it “brings cosiness in” and pairs beautifully with layered outerwear. “There’s a practicality element here,” he says, pointing out that curtain bangs can be refreshed without washing the entire head of hair, making it a low-maintenance yet stylish choice.
Sanaa Lathan styled by Kim Kimble (@kimblehaircare)
The tiara bun, a high bun placed at the crown of the head is making its way forward this season. Tom tells us that this strikes a balance between “practical sportiness” and a “regal element,” providing both elegance and lift for someone seeking a polished look. “A high bun like this does wonderful things to the cheekbone, lifts the face, and makes people feel taller and hold their posture higher,” he adds. This style’s versatility allows it to be worn sleek or with texture, depending on the client’s preference.
Serena Williams styled by Angela Meadows (@angelameadowssalon)
For clients who want to embrace their natural texture, cloud curls offer a soft, ethereal look. These airy waves or curls create a youthful and carefree energy that transitions well from summer into the cooler months. “Cloud curls is very much that kind of theme,” Tom explains, emphasising that the relaxed, textured waves bring a touch of summer’s warmth into autumn. This style works especially well when combined with deeper, richer autumn tones.
Alexa Demie styled by Igor Rosales- Jackson (@hairbyiggy)
Shorter cuts are also having a moment with styles like the tucked bob and laser cut bob. The tucked bob is a sleek and minimalist style that is both practical and stylish. By tucking the hair neatly behind the ears, this bob creates a polished look that works for all hair types and face shapes. Tom mentions that this style is perfect for the cooler months, as it offers a “more serious, groomed sharpness” after the casual looks of summer. The tucked bob is ideal for clients who want a clean, sophisticated look that requires minimal effort while still maintaining a refined edge.
Lily Collins styled by Jacob Schwartz (@jacobschwartzhair) and Gregory Russell (@gregoryrussellhair)
For clients seeking precision and structure, the laser-cut bob is the perfect choice. This sharp, one-length bob provides a bold and modern aesthetic, ideal for those who appreciate clean lines and attention to detail. As Tom describes it, this is the “tailoring of the haircuts” for autumn 2024, offering a sharp, defined look that pairs well with more tailored, structured fashion. The laser-cut bob works best for clients with fine hair, as the precise cut adds thickness and density to the hair, making it appear fuller and more structured.
For salon owners and stylists, autumn 2024 is the perfect time to refresh your service menu with these cosy yet chic styles. Clients are looking for cuts and styles that blend ease and sophistication, making it essential to focus on not only being fashionable but practical for the season. As Tom emphasises, this season is less about dramatic transformations and more about helping clients evolve their look naturally, promoting hair health and confidence. By staying on top of these trends and aligning with client preferences, salons can position themselves as ahead-of-the-curve in creating chic autumn styles that are both trendy and practical for the cooler months ahead.
L’Oréal Professionnel Paris global ambassador Siobhan Jones shares the perfect technique for delivering high-coverage blonde, using freehand balayage free weaving. “This technique is perfect for anyone who loves the softness of balayage, but is looking for the coverage of foils,” says Siobhan.
Dia Light Formula
Contour: 10.18 with 9vol
Roots: 8.21 with 9 vol
Mid-lengths: 9.21 + 9.82 with 9 vol
Ends: 10.18 with 9 vol
Step 1: The model’s hair is a natural base seven. Start by parting hair in a classic sectioning pattern.
Step 2: Starting at the hairline, take a diagonal section and weave, then use the edge of the tint brush and paint L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Blond Studio Purple Lightening Balm from root to tip. Use your hands to push it down the hair shaft.
Step 3: Join the hair let out from underneath and saturate to the ends, using your hands to push in the balm which will guarantee a nice, bright lift.
Step 4: Repeat this throughout the sides, weaving, painting and saturating the hair.
Step 5: Move diagonally off the parting, starting on the hairline to create a beautiful contour.
Step 6: Moving through the parting on a diagonal angle, use the free weaving technique, which will give a graduated, yet full coverage effect.
Step 7: Repeat this technique throughout the back diamond section on a diagonal. Once you reach the desired lift, gloss over with a Milky Tea toner using L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Dia Light for a beautiful, high-shine blonde.
Step 8: To finish, apply L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Pli to the hair and blow dry smooth and dress with a wide barrel tong for a soft wavy finish.
Hair lead Clare Hansford created sporty slick looks at the annual CSM White Show.
A precision trim is given a textural twist by the owner of the EXSTUDIO barbershop.
A new twist the Farrah Fawcett classic, James Earnshaw shares his fresh take on big, bouncy, bountiful waves.
Educating your clients about the importance of early intervention is key. Hair loss often worsens when left untreated. Leading trichologist, Mark Blake, tells us that the best thing for clients to do is “get advice and start a hair loss regime as quickly as possible.” Hair loss gets worse if left untreated, so doing nothing is going to let the problem get worse. By guiding your clients to act early, you can help them preserve their hair health and confidence.
One essential point to highlight is the seasonal nature of hair shedding. “Clients shouldn’t be alarmed if they notice more hair loss in September,” Mark shares. “It is the month that we see the highest proportion of natural hair loss in the Northern Hemisphere. It’s thought to be due to seasonal changes in light and weather.” While this is a natural occurrence, you should encourage clients to seek advice if they notice excessive or persistent shedding. Here are a few methods you can share with your clients, so they can start their health growth journey as soon as they leave the salon.
Many clients may not realise how crucial their diet is to hair growth. Hair is composed of approximately 85 per cent protein, and a lack of it can severely impact growth. Blake reminds us that “hair only grows from the protein eaten or retained,” highlighting the importance of a well-balanced diet for hair health.
Secondly, scalp care is critical but often neglected. Blake suggests that clients exfoliate their scalp every six weeks, explaining, “the scalp ages 12 times faster than the skin on the body and six times faster than the skin on the face. The scalp is where the hair must grow out of, and it needs looking after.”
Some clients believe that washing their hair less frequently will help reduce hair loss, but Mark Blake warns against this misconception. “As a Trichologist, I see more problems from hair loss patients who don’t wash their hair frequently than from patients who do wash their hair frequently,” Blake explains. He adds: “Clients should treat their scalp like any other part of their body. They should probably treat it better…scalp health is directly linked to hair health.” Encouraging clients to wash their hair regularly, focusing on scalp health, can help mitigate issues related to hair loss.
As trusted professionals, you can offer more than just styling. Offering scalp treatments, exfoliation services, and hair loss consultations can set your salon apart as a wellness hub for clients concerned about thinning hair. Plus, partnering with specialists, stocking trichologist-recommended products, and training your team in hair loss management will better serve your clients and build trust in your expertise.
Hair loss can be triggered by a wide range of factors, including genetics, hormonal changes, stress, nutrition, and even certain medical conditions or treatments. While understanding the root cause of hair loss is helpful, what’s more important is focusing on timely and effective intervention. Whatever the cause, action can prevent further loss and help restore hair health. The key is not dwelling on why hair loss happens, but rather how you can guide clients towards the best solutions to manage it.
Hair Loss Awareness Month is a great opportunity for salon owners to enhance their services and raise awareness about hair health, even by simply adding more targeted scalp health treatments to your service menu. Offering this added layer of care can position your salon as a leader in holistic hair care.
Hair Loss Awareness Month is a reminder that hair loss is a common issue, and it’s oftentimes tied up with many emotions, but it can be managed with the right knowledge and approach. As stylists, you are in a powerful position to provide education, support, and care for clients experiencing hair loss, helping them to regain their confidence and maintain healthy hair.
Maintaining a healthy work-life balance is crucial. I’ve learned to value rest, nutrition, and exercise as integral parts of my routine. Establishing a morning routine has been a game-changer for me, providing structure and setting a positive tone for the day. This balance between personal care and professional responsibilities ensures I can bring my best self to my work.
Understanding and aligning with my core beliefs has been a significant part of my journey and part of the reason we moved to Davines, a brand that reflects our ethos and values. Authenticity, creativity, kindness, and sharing are the pillars that guide my decisions and actions. These values not only shape my professional approach but also resonate with my personal life, helping to create an alignment in both worlds. The B Corp status of Davines was a big attraction and their transparency and accountability inspired us as a business to look for the best practices and prioritise people over profit.
I understand that when starting your career, it’s tempting to seize every opportunity. With experience, I can offer this advice: focus on what brings you joy. People often talk about work-life balance, but when you find purpose in your career, the alignment naturally follows. You don’t need to chase everything all the time. Recognise what makes you feel good about yourself, and the rest will follow.