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Custom lace front wig for the Met Gala 2022, with colour by Jason Hogan
Dearest readers… Whether you are a Bridgerton fanatic, a member of the Polin fandom or have never watched an episode at all, you’ve most probably come across Nicola Coughlan at some point in the past few years. From Derry Girls to Big Mood, she has a knack of creating ‘wow’ moments that love to go viral. That’s in part due to her role as Penelope Featheringtonin the Netflix hit Bridgerton, and also because she enjoys an exploratory sense of style that captures attention online and on social media.
One of the more misunderstood parts of my job is the ‘style journey’ as I like to call it, which myself and other glam team members craft through the unique partnership we create with our clients. Almost everybody has a personal sense of style but when one also has a public-facing life, there often isn’t time to take care of hair, make-up and wardrobe choices when carrying out duties that come with the role. That’s where professionals come in…
Going red for the Barbie premiere in London
Met Gala 2022
However, where it gets particularly exciting is when my clients want to go a step beyond the expected and craft a style iconography. I’ve worked with a breadth of talent over the years; many like to execute minimal changes to their personal style and have us perform only that, as best we know how for them. Then others want to push the boundaries of style, which for any creative is a form of pure joy. Nicola has always been someone with a love of style and the courage to be dynamic. We met – along with make-up artist Neil Young, stylist Aimee Croysdill and nail technician Michelle Class – on a photoshoot for Refinery29 in 2020. Nicola was already established thanks to her role in the hit show Derry Girls, and was due to appear in the debut season of Bridgerton. We had no idea how big that show would become nor the importance of the role of Penelope Featherington within the Bridgerton universe!
Halley Brisker
It often takes time to discover what our clients’ goals are when working with glam teams. In the nearly four years we’ve worked together as a team of creatives alongside Nicola, we’ve created looks that have incorporated extensive product knowledge – from the oily, sleek locks for the SAG Awards to textured, A-line bobs at The Baftas. Hair piece sourcing for faux bangs at front row shows for Miu Miu in Paris and braided hair bows for the Stylist magazine awards in London. We’ve experimented with colour too; Nicola went red for the Barbie premiere in London and with the custom-coloured lace front wig I created for Nicola at the 2022 Met Gala, Jason Hogan at Josh Wood Atelier painstakingly coloured it to complement a bespoke Richard Quinn dress.
Halley and the glam team at work behind the scenes
Stylist Magazine Awards, 2022
Throughout this incredible style journey we’ve gone on together, the thread that has been a relative constant has been Bridgerton, which has just launched its third season. That instalment sees Nicola’s character take centre stage in the plot, to become… nope, I’m not giving anything away!
It’s no coincidence that as looks go, the hair finish in New York was one of our most straightforward; sometimes we ‘grow as we go’. Of course, I have no idea what the future looks like for Bridgerton or Penelope, but to see hundreds of fans turn out for Nicola was a special moment and a perfect opportunity to create simple, elegant looks for this milestone moment.
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Located in the heart of London’s Old Street you’ll find new Grid Studios, specifically designed for hair and beauty creatives. It’s run by Danny Mendoza-Hall and Ben Ottewell, hair content creators par excellence… and they’ve even worked with Jordanna Cobella to access her in-depth knowledge of the industry to ensure it was spot-on for the modern stylist.
This 100 sq m-plus studio boasts 3.5m high ceilings, an outside courtyard and a banging coffee bar. There are six fully equipped styling stations and a backwash unit with 360-degree access, perfect for every angle when filming. Yes, you’ll find everything you would expect to see in any top salon, but it’s all the extra touches that the social media savvy stylist needs today that impresses. There’s a shower room for capturing wet looks and products, multiple backdrops, materials, polyboards and all the A/V equipment you could need to host events and education.
Plenty of natural light pours into the space, thanks to the 14m of south-facing windows. But the stand-out element might just be the custom-built lighting system. Hair creatives are always keen to show their work in the best light, and Grid Studio’s lighting system gives an even balanced daylight throughout the space. Its custom system automatically changes the colour temperature of the lighting to match the colour temperature of the daylight, so wherever you are in the space, the lighting and colour is perfect. The lights in the mirrors also change temperature! “We have put this lighting system in place so you can just turn up and shoot without the need to rent additional equipment, meaning you can significantly cut down on the costs of creating high-end content,” says Danny.
There’s also an own in-house production team – Grid Productions – that’s been creating hair content for years, working with some of the industry’s biggest brands. “Our goal was to make high-end content creation accessible both to brands and to hairdressers and beauty professionals,” he adds.
What’s on offer? First, there’s single chair rental, which works in a similar way to a freelance salon – you can rent a chair for the day, bring in your models and use the lighting, equipment and shoot area to create content. Alternatively, the entire studio is available to rent – that comes with all six stations, the backwash and the shoot area, just right for creating branded content and campaigns.
“We created this space to solve the problems we come up against when shooting both in salons and in studios,” says Danny. “Salons often don’t have the ceiling height, they have mismatched lighting, and are busy and noisy. We usually need to bring in loads of additional lighting, and shoot in cramped conditions. Studios don’t generally have styling stations or backwashes, which means you can’t properly capture the creation process. Again, you still need to bring in additional lighting, which is very expensive, making it unachievable for your average freelancer.”
Joshua Goldsworthy fashioned a copper-rich 90s shag with an 80s punk edge at The Coterie: In Session, back in 2017.
The success behind great creative colour lies in the consultation, but what are the common pitfalls many hairdressers get wrong?
How two salon owners and a self-employed hair pro have used AI to level up their work.
Home-made jumbo setting pins, smooth moves, and a watchful eye – respect the technique, as Lauren Bell aces rick-rack texture for The Coterie: In Session crowd back in 2021.
A Creative HEAD event in partnership with BaByliss PRO, hosted by journalist and broadcaster, Ateh Jewel.
Hair: Lauren Bell
Make-up: Tricia Woolston
Fashion: Issie Gibbons
Model: Nirvana Proag @ First Management
Video and production: Sledge
Photography: Harvey Williams-Fairley
Venue: Jet Studios
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Presented exclusively for The Coterie: In Session in 2017, Joshua Goldsworthy fashioned a copper-rich 90s shag with an 80s punk edge, but the foundations of his look impressed guests just as much. Watch and learn as Joshua whips up a styling sensation – expert wig work included.
A Creative HEAD event in partnership with BaByliss PRO, hosted by Vogue’s Jessica Diner.
Hair: Joshua Goldworthy
Make-up: Tricia Woolston
Fashion: Claudia De Meis
Model: Abbie
Video and production: Sledge
Photography: Andy Lane
Venue: Jet Studios
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The Pandemic shifted many aspects of the cultural zeitgeist, a work/life balance with a greater emphasis on mindful, positive habits being one key area. It allowed businesses to reflect on their practices and check in with the team properly, beyond a passing ‘how are you?’ in the break room between clients. The downside? As attention turned to the topic of wellness, it became a trend and everyone wanted a piece of the pie, but not necessarily for the right reasons.
Danielle’s salon, Wildflower, is known across the industry for being an inclusive, welcoming space where both the salon team and their clients can grow and thrive; after all, they did win Most Wanted’s Best Client Experience award in 2022. But Danielle is the first to admit that creating a culture of wellness cannot be dictated – it cannot be a one-style-fits-all all approach, otherwise, you will fall at the first hurdle.
More often, wellwashing comes from a place of feeling the need to ‘do something’, as opposed to a genuine desire to prioritise staff wellbeing beyond the surface level.
“When businesses do this, they can end up just checking the wellbeing box rather than investing in a strategy that has an impact far beyond improving and protecting the wellbeing of employees.,” says lifestyle and holistic coach, Sonia Magnier. “They are missing out on the real benefits of putting employee wellbeing front and centre.”
Conversely, properly Investing in your team’s wellbeing can lead to improved productivity, lower staff turnover and absenteeism, and a more positive company culture. Sonia has seen this first-hand with the clients she is working with and truly believes it makes a difference.
Sonia Magnier
To genuinely nurture a wellbeing-focused culture in your organisation, Sonia suggests considering these strategies:
It starts at the top
“Leadership needs to walk the talk and show a real commitment to their own wellbeing as well as employee wellbeing. Your team should see that your actions speak louder than words! A half-day wellbeing workshop is a great way to kick-start a wellbeing programme.”
Empower your employees with the tools they need
“Offer training on mental health awareness, stress management, and resilience. Give them the skills to tackle the ups and downs of the modern working world.”
It’s also valuable to remember that wellness is a personal journey, so each person involved in the brand or salon must have the flexibility to work on their wellness. “You can’t enforce yoga or meditation classes if the individual isn’t in the right head space,” says Danielle. “As a business, our HR offering includes six therapy sessions that can be taken at any time. But it’s not my place to comment when a team member needs to make that first appointment. All I can do is make sure they are aware of the opportunity and be there when they need it.”
To genuinely prioritise your employees’ wellbeing, it’s important to commit to long-term initiatives that prove that you care. Not only will you dodge the dangers of well-washing, but you’ll also create a happier, healthier, and more productive workforce.
When session stylist Joe Mills raised the issue of pay transparency in the session world, it caused an
uproar.
Toby Dicker of the Salon Employers Association took the fight to Government.
Forget the past, says colourist Nancy Stripe. Grey hair is nothing to fear.
The debate around AI rages on, but the technology isn’t going anywhere. So, we asked three hair pros from across the industry to share how they have onboarded AI to grow their businesses. Have they encountered some teething problems? Sure. But they’ve made the mistakes so you don’t have to…
Chris Foster AKA the Profile Guy
How are you using AI for your business?
“On the creative side, AI can serve as a brainstorming tool,” says Chris Foster AKA The Profile Guy, who uses AI as a freelancer. “It can aid with everything from styling ideas to building collections. I’ve used AI to generate mood boards and spark new concepts from my imagination, and it’s been incredibly helpful in expanding my creative horizons.”
ChatGPT may be the most common platform we associate AI with when we think about automation. Sophia Hilton, owner of Not Another Salon in London, has used her social media platforms to be transparent about the business benefits that AI can provide. “We started to use ChatGPT to help one of my trainee receptionists deal with complaints,” Sophia explains. “Since then, I have continued to incorporate it into my business, gained experience using it and created a course on how business owners can write with AI to help them speed up their work.”
Sean Butt, operations manager at Alchemy & I in Berkhamsted, is always looking for ways to unlock innovation and leverage AI to revolutionise the salon, he has used AI tools to generate his answers for this article, which have been tweaked to ensure they sound more personal. “AI isn’t just a buzzword, it’s a transformative tool enhancing every aspect of the salon business,” he says. “From personalised consultations to trend forecasting, inventory management and process alignment and creation, AI serves as a cornerstone of our commitment to excellence.”
To help stylists offer bespoke recommendations for each client, the salon uses the AI algorithm to help stylists tailor recommendations for an enhanced experience. Trend prediction features are also used during consultations.
Sean Butt with Senior Alchemist at Alchemy & I, Amy Lutt
What element of AI would you recommend hairdressers get on board with?
For industry professionals on a mission to enhance the salon experience or elevate their hairdressing business, AI-driven solutions are one of the most valuable recommendations from Alchemy & I. “AI-powered consultation tools and trend forecasting software can revolutionise client interactions and business operations alike. It’s a great investment,” says Sean. “It means we can offer unparalleled personalised experiences, driving customer loyalty and business growth while remaining at the forefront of industry developments, securing a competitive edge in an ever-evolving market.”
For freelancers like Chris Foster, AI is also a great tool for enhancing productivity. “Think of it like the AR filters on social media platforms,” he explains. “AI-powered tools can streamline content creation, making it faster and easier to produce engaging content that showcases your skills and drives traffic to your salon.
From editing videos and audio, to repurposing content into various formats, AI can be a gamechanger,” he adds. “As a creative, it can help you stay on top of trends by selecting the best music and videos for your content and speed up the editing process, ensuring a great user experience. AI has been pivotal to the success of social media.”
Sophia Hilton agrees, having used AI to help with a multitude of jobs as a salon owner. “For self-employed hairdressers and salon owners, writing with AI can be helpful,” she comments. “It can help with anything from website copy and social media captions to using it for reading contracts that you don’t understand. When you’ve never done it, it sounds complicated, but it’s easier than googling something!”
Sophia Hilton
What errors have you made while figuring it out, so others don’t make the same mistakes?
Using an AI platform can make it tempting to input the first thing you think of, but it takes work to ensure its answers sound authentic to your voice. “The number one thing I teach when using ChatGPT or other platforms like that is to make sure that you’re training the programme to sound like you and not copy and pasting some robot-like text,” says Sophia. “It will not take long for the public to see when you’ve been lazy. Taking the time to train it makes it so much more genuine.”
“I initially underestimated the breadth of AI applications, thinking it was limited to ChatGPT,” admits Chris. “AI is so much more than that, it’s much more powerful across so many domains – creating websites, graphics, and improving productivity.” Chris has just launched a brand-new AI assistant from his AI agency specifically for salon owners and freelancers to help them run their businesses more effectively, creating maximum efficiency with very little cost.
While integrating AI into the salon has been rewarding for the team at Alchemy & I, Sean admits they encountered challenges along the way. “One notable mistake was underestimating the importance of staff training and familiarisation with AI technologies. Prioritise comprehensive training programmes and support your staff when adapting,” he adds.
When session stylist Joe Mills raised the issue of pay transparency in the session world, it caused an
uproar.
Toby Dicker of the Salon Employers Association took the fight to Government.
Forget the past, says colourist Nancy Stripe. Grey hair is nothing to fear.