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Tax, Rates And Wage Increases Are Coming. Can Hairdressing Businesses Cope?

Tax, Rates And Wage Increases Are Coming. Can Hairdressing Businesses Cope?

Feb 17, 2025 | DOCUMENTS, DOCUMENTS HEADER, EXPLORE

Tax, Rates And Wage Increases Are Coming. Can Hairdressing Businesses Cope?

From April, hairdressing employers will pay more in National Insurance, as well as a higher Minimum Wage. In a special edition of our On The Floor series, Creative HEAD gathered business owners from across the UK to discuss the impact of Labour’s controversial first Budget

by CATHERINE | DOCUMENTS

In April 2025, significant rises in National Minimum wages and employers’ NI contributions will come into force, driving up operational costs and squeezing profit margins for many hairdressing businesses at a time of fragile post-pandemic recovery. 

For many small business owners already struggling to keep their heads above water, the additional costs announced in Chancellor Rachel Reeves’ first Budget will be crippling. There is talk of a curtailing of new hires, a need to make existing roles redundant and even business closures. 

If you’re one of those contemplating your rising cost base, the words of Eeyore from Winnie the Pooh might spring to mind: “Could be worse – not sure how, but it could be.”  

However, some are pushing such gloomy thoughts aside and embracing the challenge by finding ways to offset extra costs. 

Creative HEAD gathered a group of hairdressing business owners – a mix of employers, rent-a-chairs and hybrids – at a virtual round table to discuss how the impending changes are impacting on their plans for the future. 

Upcoming Changes Announced In The Budget 

Employers National Insurance Contributions (NICs) 

From April 2025 the rate of employers’ NICs will increase from 13.8 per cent to 15 per cent. The level at which employers start paying NICs (the secondary threshold) will also reduce from £9,100 to £5,000 per year. 

To help small businesses offset the increased NIC costs, the Employment Allowance, which helps eligible employers reduce their NIC liability, will increase from £5,000 to £10,500, and the £100,000 eligibility threshold will be removed. 

Business Rates 

April sees a scaling back of the business rate relief, with the current 75 per cent discount to be replaced by a permanent discount of 40 per cent, up to a maximum of £110k per business. 

Wage cost increases  

Significant Minimum Wage rises are coming into force in April 2025*: 

A rise in the National Living Wage for those aged 21 and over at more than double the rate of inflation (from £11.44 to £12.21 per hour). 

A 16.3 per cent increase in the National Minimum Wage for those aged 18 to 20 (from £8.60 to £10.00 per hour). 

And an 18 per cent increase for those aged 16 to 17 and apprentices (from £6.40 to £7.55) 

*The April 2025 rates represent the largest increase on record for the 18- to 20-year-old rate. The Government has also made clear they want the adult NLW rate to be extended to cover 18-year-olds in the future. 

Q1 It’s fair to say the Budget has caused consternation in the business community, but which element will most impact on your business strategy as the new legislation comes into force this year? 

For the majority of our panel, the biggest impact on business will come from the changes to employers’ NICs and the National Minimum Wage.  

However, the increase in NICs wasn’t the killer – it was the reduction in the threshold that caused the biggest shock. Almost everyone is looking at making tough choices because of those rising costs, and apprentices are a major concern.  

Those with apprentices talked of cutting numbers or not replacing them when their current cohort qualifies, while acknowledging the medium- to long-term impact on their future workforce of having fewer apprentices on board.  

“We run our business as self-employed, but employing apprentices was something we were hoping to build up to in the future. Now, after seeing the Budget, we’ve been put off. I genuinely don’t know how people can afford them.”

_______

“We are fully employed with a team of 35, and we’ve worked out that the rate increase and the NIC threshold reduction are going to add around £30,000 to our wage bill. We will raise our prices in March or April to help cover that increase but our view is that later on in the year we will drop our apprentices from four to two. And the sad thing is that we rely on our apprentice programme for our stylists to come through, so that will be quite difficult in terms of our future workforce.”

_______

“The most disgraceful thing [the Government did] was reducing the threshold from £9,100 to £5,000. That is disproportionately hitting part-timers. If you’ve got one person on £150k, it will cost you £2.5k. If you’ve got 10 part-timers on £15k each, it’ll cost you an extra £10k. That’s insanity. So, supporting people like young mums, who come in at 10am and leave at 3pm, is now the most expensive increase in our labour cost.”

_______

“I run four salons in south London and around 75 per cent of our staff are employed, so [the Budget] is going to have the most enormous impact on our costs. The real frustration for me and other salon owners is that I don’t think the Government understands how the impact is disproportionately terrible for hairdressing. I can’t think of any other industry where the labour cost is around 60 per cent of turnover – we are overlooked in that respect.”

_______

“In the past, if I saw a great 19-year-old, I would have said, ‘Come on board, you could be worth the investment.’ Now I will probably think very differently. I am petrified for the future of apprentices in our industry.”

_______

“After many years of being a passionate employer, it became obvious that my team could walk off and earn so much more money self-employed, so I switched my business to chair rental. I was mid-transformation when the Budget hit and all I could think was, ‘Thank Christ I did that!’”

Q2 What action will you need to take to ensure your business can survive and thrive over the next 12 months? 

As well as raising prices (which can neatly be blamed on the Budget, and clients will understand), there was lots of talk of working meticulously through the P&L to make cutbacks, too.  

Apprentices are in the firing line, but so are those unique luxury extras for clients – one business owner talked of reducing the size of his coffee cups because clients are increasingly asking for more expensive oat milk; another said they would stop offering baker-crafted branded biscuits and go back to Biscoff.  

However, we also heard how some are looking at the positives of their business, “shutting out the noise” to focus on what they’re brilliant at and working hard to raise awareness of those USPs and to deliver a business that is flexible and responsive to both clients and team. 

“I can’t make progress if I’m feeling anxious or negative. What I need to do is take practical steps to ensure that my business is sustainable. I’ve set aside the whole of this first quarter of 2025 to completely rework my business model. I need to look at every single line, I need to take it all apart and then put it back together in a model that works, that will tell me what I need to do with my pricing, my contracts, my apprentices, my stylists.” 

_______

“We have decided we need to be stricter on targets, so we now have a weekly huddle on a Monday morning to clarify our goals – we’re not drifting into anything anymore. We are trying to plan and make sure that every member of the team knows where they are financially.” 

_______

“I will be looking at my pricing and actually trying to understand it better (it’s always been a bit messy). I’ve been using the Maddi Cook calculator and putting it all on a spreadsheet and seeing how an increase could help me. This is definitely an excuse to blame the Government. I can be blunt with clients and say, ‘My staff deserve a decent wage and this is the only way we can afford it.’” 

_______

“We’re going back to basics – facts and figures. How much do we need to make? How are we going to do that? What skills will be required? We’re letting that inform us how we need to address the Minimum Wage, the business rates and so on. I feel you can get caught up in the noise, what’s going wrong, whereas we need to think about what we’re good at, what we’re offering and how we will achieve that financially.” 

_______

“For us, it’s been an exercise of consolidation. We’re trying to bring everything back in-house, which will require a bit of restructuring and like everyone has said, there’s no room for any fat. We’re looking at efficiencies, really trying to work out where we can make savings, while bringing up those service standards so that clients feel they’re getting value. What’s scaring me a little is that we put up our prices every April and they will have to go up significantly this April, so we’re having to work out how to present that to clients without spooking them.” 

Q3 What action would you like the hairdressing sector to take to support your business over the next 12 months? 

It was widely felt that industry organisations are not making our position clear to Government. There is a distinct feeling that hairdressing is not understood, and we need to be more vocal in sharing our real issues.  

There was talk about the need to raise the reputation of hairdressing. The public needs to see that we are not the Wild West – that hairdressing is a legitimate industry, and we invest in our people. For the first time in a while, the issue of compulsory registration was raised and there were calls for training organisations to be vetted and rated. 

Business owners are also taking a hard look at their suppliers, many of whom have just announced price rises. It would be good if those account managers and reps could be there to offer business support, rather than just trying to sell more product… 

“I think the industry bodies that are supposed to represent us are doing a bad job. A couple seem tone deaf in terms of the impact of [the Budget] changes on our industry. We are lumped in with beauticians and cosmetics brands so what’s presented to the Government is actually a muddled picture about growth, when actually if you drill down the trend in hairdressing is a total exodus from employment into self-employment and businesses deliberately staying below the VAT threshold, which creates an unlevel playing field.” 

_______

“The organisations who represent us are run by people who are not hairdressers, none of them own salons. It’s effing ridiculous!” 

_______

“I do think that not having a voice is an issue for us. Salon ownership is at an all-time low. So, if someone is doing a survey of hairdressers and asking them what the problems are, the results are not going to be representative of the issues that we [as business owners vs independents] are facing, because only a small percentage of respondents will be running a business and having to deal with these very real issues following the Budget. If the Government is being told, for example, that 90 per cent of the industry is managing, then why would they take any notice of the other 10 per cent? We’re getting to the point where we can’t train anybody anymore and nobody’s coming through as a result. That message needs to be clearer.” 

_______

“I think we need to register hairdressers. I think there needs to be some kind of clampdown on standards in training organisations because some of them are shockingly bad.” 

_______

“With the bigger brands, obviously, the more you spend, the more support you get. But when you’re trying to support the smaller independent brands, they just don’t have the ability to deliver that. So, it’s all a bit tough, it’s treacle out there – it’s sticky.” 

Q4 What action would you like the Government take to address some of the negative impacts of the Budget on your business moving forward? 

VAT was an issue brought up by all – how a reduction in the rate and/or in the threshold would make a huge difference, although nobody saw any VAT change on the cards. The predominant feeling is that all hair pros providing a service should be paying similar taxes and all should be VAT-registered. That would create a level playing field that would make business ownership and employment more sustainable – and that needs to be better explained to Government.  

“I’d like to see Government give us a VAT that is proportionate for service industries. I know they do that in Ireland (VAT for hairdressers is charged at a reduced rate of 13.5 per cent versus the standard rate of 23 per cent) but I’d like to see it go further. I’d like to see them make every independent stylist charge VAT as well to give us more of a level playing field. So, if you’re a practising hairdresser you should have a VAT number.” 

_______

“When it comes to VAT, [the Government] needs to realise that we are an industry that works on totally different principles to an awful lot of the High Street, and yet we’re bundled in with the same set of responsibilities and it just doesn’t work. They also need to understand that we are a craft and that for us to be able to train and pass on that craft we need better financial support. Through economic necessity, assistants are being asked to go onto the floor too quickly.” 

_______

“VAT is just the killer. It’s so depressing watching your business grow and then seeing how much tax you have to pay and how little you can offset. Every week, when I put that money into to the pot I use to pay my VAT, I just feel like, What’s the point?’” 

_______

“We all know that in barbering there are so many crooks on the high street, and it sucks knowing that we work so hard and are doing things properly while there are 30 other barber shops down the road doing cash in hand and probably making more money than us.” 

_______

“Government has to understand that our industry is labour-intensive. They’ve got to level the playing field. Everyone has to be VAT-registered, whether you work from a shed or from a salon in Mayfair. And I think they need to reward employers that train people, that’s also key. Until that happens, it’s all going to become more and more of a challenge. But I do think salons that can survive the next three or four years are going to be smashing it, because if you can keep your head until then…”  

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“We Know We Can Rely On Our Future Workforce”

“We Know We Can Rely On Our Future Workforce”

Feb 10, 2025 | DOCUMENTS, EXPLORE, HOME EXPLORE

“We Know We Can Rely On Our Future Workforce”

Why Hooker & Young have always invested in apprentices

by CATHERINE | DOCUMENTS

“We Have Always Invested In Apprentices” – Michael Young, Co-Owner, Hooker & Young, Newcastle-Upon-Tyne

Victoria Lynch

Michael Young

“The Hooker & Young group consists of four very busy salons located across the North-East, and I’m proud to say that apart from a couple of exceptions, every single one of our 55 stylists started as an apprentice with us.  

“We have always invested in apprentices to assist our stylists, right from when we opened our first salon 30 years ago. Over those three decades, our apprenticeship programme has built real momentum within the business because we know we can rely on our future workforce. What’s more, it means that every single apprentice who goes on to the salon floor understands the Hooker & Young ethos and what is required of them. That is so valuable.  

“Hooker & Young is about luxury hairdressing, and we charge prices to match. Our clientele is well-heeled, very demanding and expects a five-star experience, like they get in the restaurants they frequent. They notice the details.  

“Just like in those restaurants, where you’ll often have one waiter for every table, we have an assistant supporting every stylist. That’s crucial, because it allows a stylist to move easily between multiple clients, knowing that each client is being well looked after by the assistant in between.

If it wasn’t for the assistants, the stylist would need to stay with the same client for the duration of their appointment, and that is obviously very limiting. 

“Assistants not only allow us to deliver the levels of service we want, they are a crucial part of the process that brings extra revenue into the business. Thanks to our assistants we never have to turn clients away and that means our salons continue to grow. The way we look at it, our apprentices and assistants are as important as anyone on the salon floor.” 

“The Salon Is Where I Do All My Learning” – Amelia Richardson, Apprentice, Hooker & Young, Newcastle-Upon-Tyne 

Amelia Richardson

Amelia Richardson

“When I left school I already knew I wanted to be a hairdresser, but I was pushed into doing A-Levels at Sixth Form College. I left after a few months because it wasn’t for me. I really did want to do hairdressing! 

“I chose to do an apprenticeship because I like to be in the workplace. Hooker & Young responded to my CV, and after an initial taster session in their Jesmond salon, I showed up for my first day at work as their first new starter in eight months.  

“I was very nervous, but because everyone in the team had started out as an apprentice themselves, they knew exactly what they had to show me so I could do my job. By the end of the day I knew where things were kept, how to clean down a styling station, how the salon dynamic worked. I felt so happy. I knew I’d made the right decision.

“Although I spend a day in college every two weeks, the salon is where I do all my learning. You learn from observing the stylists you work with, as well as other apprentices – it’s incredible how a salon works. I love being part of a team, there’s always someone you can talk to, no matter what it is you want to talk about. I look forward to going to work, to see my co-workers.  

“It’s absolutely possible to live on the apprenticeship wage (currently £6.40 per hour). I work 41 hours per week and over the last two years I’ve been able to pay my board, buy a car, get my phone, eat out a couple of times a week and have a decent holiday. The trick is to budget properly – my mum has taught me that. 

“I’m 18 years old and coming to the end of my apprenticeship. In June I’ll be doing my End Point Assessment, which is where an external assessor comes and observes me essentially run my own column for a day. I’m nervous, but I know it’s something everyone in the salon has been through themselves.  

“I see myself spending the next 10 years at least at Hooker & Young. Of course, I dream of owning my own salon one day, but I have seen how people can grow here and how much support they are given – it’s exciting and reassuring all at the same time. I am so glad I chose hairdressing as my career and I am very happy I got to do my apprenticeship at such a great salon.” 

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“We Particularly Focus On Consultation”

“We Particularly Focus On Consultation”

Feb 10, 2025 | DOCUMENTS, EXPLORE, HOME EXPLORE

“We Particularly Focus On Consultation”

How Tribe Salons ensure their apprentices are salon ready

by AMANDA | DOCUMENTS

“When people are homegrown, understand your way of doing things, and have been with you from the start, they stay for longer” – Elle Foreman, head of education, Tribe Salons, Clapham and Chislehurst

Victoria Lynch

Elle Forman

“We’re a family run business with two salons – in Clapham and Chislehurst – and we’ve always kept things quite small so we can be personal and people orientated. We have a very diverse clientele across both salons, aged from 16 up to 92, all different hair textures and hair types. The salon is priced more towards the higher end, as we’re an Aveda salon. That means we have a high standard to maintain. 

“We’ve always offered apprenticeships, we need to bring new talent through, that they’re able to learn on a daily basis. We have seven now, and probably about 50 per cent of the teams across both salons started with us as apprentices. It’s so hard to recruit nowadays, especially in London. When people are homegrown, understand your way of doing things, and have been with you from the start, they stay for longer.  

“While apprentices are doing their NVQ, they train within the salon, learning alongside the stylists on the job. However, after their EPA, their training goes further with us. Every Tuesday, I have all the newly qualified assistants, and we book in models for the whole day so that it’s like having a column of clients, and I help them advance their skill set so they’re fully equipped when they hit the shop floor. We particularly focus on consultation. I think it’s something that can be skipped over with an apprenticeship. The focus is on learning the technical skills, but consultation for us is a big one. We make sure our apprentices understand how to talk to people and get the best out them so that they can deliver a confident result.  

“We had a period last year where it was quite evident that people were coming into the industry thinking it would be an easy route, but then quickly realise that to become a hairdresser, and you must do lots of training. We’ve changed our recruitment process, adapting the questions to try and filter out the ones that aren’t doing it for the right reasons.” 

Tripe Clapham

Tribe Clapham

“I really like the social side, all the different personalities” – Hannah Robinson, Apprentice, Tribe Salons, Clapham and Chislehurst 

Amelia Richardson

Hannah Robinson

“I wasn’t too sure about what I wanted to do it first. I looked at apprenticeships in law and mechanics, but I opted for hairdressing. I’m coming into my second full year. I go to college every Monday, and then Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturdays I’m in the salon.  

“I wasn’t too keen on it first, but I’ve really grown to like it. I find it fun and interesting. Even if I continue this for the next 10 or so years and then change, I will always have this skill. I thought it would be quite easy, and then once I started doing it, there was a lot of standing, cleaning and tidying, but I realised there’s a lot I could learn while I’m doing it. It all started to click for me after my first Christmas – I was doing more in the salon, getting involved with more clients and enjoying it more. 

“I enjoy doing colour, but I think I’m more of a cutting stylist. Once I start talking to a client, and get to know them a bit, that’s what I really enjoy. I really like the social side, all the different personalities. 

“I’ll probably do my EPA next year, so I’m fully prepared. I might like my own salon one day, but I’m not much of a business type. I think I’d rather go into the events side, special occasion hair, weddings and Fashion Week.

“I really enjoy working as part of a team. I can get help from everybody else when I don’t understand something, or if I need help with a client or doing a certain job. I feel I can rely on everybody else around me to help me with that.” 

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“I can’t Imagine A World In Which I Would Have A Salon And Not Have An Apprentice”

“I can’t Imagine A World In Which I Would Have A Salon And Not Have An Apprentice”

Feb 10, 2025 | DOCUMENTS, DOCUMENTS HEADER, EXPLORE, HOME EXPLORE

“I can’t Imagine A World In Which I Would Have A Salon And Not Have An Apprentice”

Stripe Colour Studio on why more salons need to invest in the next generation  

by KELSEY | DOCUMENTS

“Do you care what happens to the future of hairdressing? If you do, then you need to take apprentices on. It can’t just be every man for himself” – Nancy Stripe, owner of Stripe Colour Studio, Handforth 

Victoria Lynch

Nancy Stripe

“I can’t imagine a world in which I would have a salon and not have an apprentice. The two go hand in hand, and as a salon owner, it frees you to do so much more for your own business.  

“My job is not an everyday nine-to-five job – I do lots of different things outside of the salon and I can’t work the way I do without them. Zoe is now a graduate stylist and Kitty will be completing her apprenticeship this year, so I’ve always got to be thinking, ‘Where would I be this time next year if either of them left? What would happen?’ With them on the team, I can do more teaching and go to places I need to go. Apprentices are the most important people in the salon.  

“I also like to bring them along to events and education as much as possible. I want to get them involved in things they find exciting because hairdressing is not an average job and there are so many avenues you can go down. When I went to London earlier this month, Kitty came with me and was my right hand while I was teaching. I want to show them that to curate your dream job with your dream clientele, this is where it starts. 

“Salons need to show their apprentices what’s next. If you have some fun projects happening or things that aren’t necessarily everyday appointments, bring apprentices into the fold and allow them to be part of it. That, in turn, gives them a better view of what their career can be.  

“It baffles me that everybody’s just thinking for themselves now. Do you care what happens to the future of hairdressing? If you do, then you need to take apprentices on. It can’t just be every man for himself.” 

Tripe Clapham

Zoe and Kitty working hard at Stripe Colour Studio

“To do a hairdressing apprenticeship, you’ve got to really want to do it. You can’t be 50/50 about it” – Zoe Mcgruer, Graduate Stylist, Stripe Colour Studio, Handforth  

Victoria Lynch

Zoe Mcgruer

“My mum is a hairdresser, so it’s something I’ve always considered doing for my career. I enjoyed doing all my friends’ hair, but I qualified as a nail technician first before deciding on this industry. It made me realise that I wanted to give hairdressing a go, so I came and worked for Nancy. 

“In this area, there’s no other salon like us – no other space specialises in colour and grey blending, so I knew it was the right choice to work at Stripe. Everyone is so supportive in the team, and watching how everyone does things differently has made the experience so enjoyable.  

“I’m newly qualified, and I’m still learning from Nancy as I go. If you’re not sure about something, just say how you feel. Be honest and say this isn’t working for me. If everyone’s honest with each other, you can move forward. There are no bad feelings. No one takes it personally.  

“Finding a really good boss – someone who actually cares about you – is so important. Nancy doesn’t just care about how we are at work, but also outside of work; she always checks up on us. She looks out for us and I think you need that. It’s good to have guidance from someone experienced to support you with going in the right direction.

“To do a hairdressing apprenticeship, you’ve got to really want to do it. You can’t be 50/50 about it – it’s a job that you’ve got to give 110 per cent in no matter what, because it is not an easy job to be doing. My advice is to find somewhere that suits you – don’t just stick it out if it’s not working.” 

Nancy with Zoe and Kitty

“It’s been one of the most positive journeys of my life, and I can’t take anything bad away from it” – Kitty Dyson, Apprentice, Stripe Colour Studio, Handforth 

Kitty Dyson

“I’m really happy with how I’m progressing through my apprenticeship. I can’t believe how fast the two years have gone and how fast I’ve learned everything. It’s been one of the most positive journeys of my life, and I couldn’t take anything bad away from it. 

“My grandma was a hairdresser, so I grew up around it. I used to go to work with her if my parents couldn’t look after me, so I’d go and help her by passing the perm papers. I was always around it and hairdressing has always interested me. It’s the atmosphere of the salon that I love the most – we’re all in it together. It doesn’t matter what has happened before I arrive, I know we’re still going to have a nice day together. 

“I’m with Nancy pretty much all day, so I’m by her side learning all the time. It could be watching a certain placement of the foils or a technique or product being used. I learn the why behind it and ask the questions that needed to be asked. I try to absorb as much knowledge as I can.  

“While the first year was a slower pace, the second year has ramped up. Now, I will help Nancy with root shadows or blow-dries when she is back-to-back with clients. You can’t expect to be doing a set of highlights after a month of training; you need to be realistic with your expectations, but bit by bit, the pieces will all come together.”  

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“People love beauty. That makes me happy, to know that so many people are being impacted” – Ali Pirzadeh on the power of hair

“People love beauty. That makes me happy, to know that so many people are being impacted” – Ali Pirzadeh on the power of hair

Feb 6, 2025 | DOCUMENTS, DOCUMENTS HEADER, HOME EXPLORE

“People Love Beauty. That Makes Me Happy, To Know That So Many People Are Being Impacted” – Ali Pirzadeh On The Power Of Hair

2024 Most Wanted Session Stylist Ali Pirzadeh talks about his heritage, creating compelling narratives through hair and why routine keeps him grounded

by EMMA | DOCUMENTS

Photography by Harry Carr Revue

Ali Pirzadeh

Ali Pirzadeh is a session scene luminary. A styler, twister, shaper and sculptor, his hair work amplifies fashion shows and campaigns, creating a dynamic interplay between the clothes’ texture and the hair’s fabric.

And this talent has been woven into an impressive multi-award-winning career spanning nearly three decades, during which time he has crafted a captivating portfolio. Most recently, he took home the Session Stylist trophy at Creative HEAD’s Most Wanted awards. And for good reason. He was also celebrated in The BOF (Business of Fashion) 500 in 2022, a collection of people shaping the global fashion industry, curated by the brand editors and based on nominations and global on-the- ground intel.

This global appeal – and his multicultural approach to hair – can be traced back to his roots. Born in Tehran, his family moved to Sweden when he was four years old, finding a safe space for him and his sister to grow up (more on that later). His home life clearly shaped his cross-cultural identity, reflected in the diversity of his hair creations and campaigns. Forty years later, he’s recognised for embracing all textures at all times, which has positioned him firmly at the epicentre of the hair and fashion industries, exciting and delighting as he goes.

Ali Pirzadeh

Ali Pirzadeh is a session scene luminary. A styler, twister, shaper and sculptor, his hair work amplifies fashion shows and campaigns, creating a dynamic interplay between the clothes’ texture and the hair’s fabric.

And this talent has been woven into an impressive multi-award-winning career spanning nearly three decades, during which time he has crafted a captivating portfolio. Most recently, he took home the Session Stylist trophy at Creative HEAD’s Most Wanted awards. And for good reason. He was also celebrated in The BOF (Business of Fashion) 500 in 2022, a collection of people shaping the global fashion industry, curated by the brand editors and based on nominations and global on-the- ground intel.

 

British Vogue, Photography by Felicity Ingram

Where The Heart Is

Down-to-earth, he’s the creative conduit behind the key hair looks of the season, a fashion facilitator. The stealth master of hair ceremony who knows his worth but is humble about it. And while session arguably takes a back seat to fashion (designers take a bow, post-show, not the hair tailors), he’s unfazed. His focus is fully entrenched in concept and creation. The secret, perhaps, is that Ali loves his life. All of it. He’s clear on boundaries (‘my work studio is in our garden, so I don’t confuse work and home’) and has a deep desire to create, mixing with like-minded friends who want to develop concepts ‘just for us’ as much as he wants to create heart-fluttering campaigns for the bigwigs and fashion cognoscenti – Alexander McQueen, Nina Ricci and Louis Vuitton, to name just a few.

His jam-packed schedule is not for the faint-hearted. When we speak, he’s just home from Paris and followed by Stockholm to shoot a big fashion campaign. Now he’s gearing up for a new project back in Paris before a shoot with the iconic photographer, Tim Walker. “It’s hectic. I’m always all over the place. Life is exciting but I need balance in-between. I’m always happy to be home,” he admits. 

“I believe you get led in a direction. I loved looking at magazines but didn’t know session styling was a thing. It still feels surreal”

Home is the space he shares with his partner of 13 years in Dalston. A fine art photographer, Ali credits him with possessing a calm manner that allows him to flourish creatively, without overwhelm. Alongside his partner’s support, Ali reveals small details that allow him to think bigger and create better. Structure, discipline, rituals and routine all ensure he can stick to his schedule of sometimes 19-hour days and rollercoaster rosters of shoots and shows. “I love routine, having my oat latte in the morning, working out, those things are important to me,” he confides. While London is now his home, he says moving from Iran to Sweden was ‘very Sliding Doors.’ “That single decision altered so much in our lives. We were the first wave of immigrants from Iran, and Sweden was very welcoming. It was an idyllic place to grow up.”

However, standing out from the crowd meant he was teased about his heritage. A year-long stint in Italy (‘I lived in Rome for a while and had a taste of blending in a little’), was nothing compared to the inclusivity he feels in London. “Home can mean so many different things, but London is my happy place. It’s where I feel I belong.”

Rogue Fashion Book, Photography by Felicity Ingram

His CV reads like a Who’s Who of the fashion world, something he’s grateful for, given the journey to feeling this sense of belonging. “My dad wanted me to study economics, so I played along. It wasn’t right for me,” he recalls. His sister’s job as a hairdresser shone a spotlight on the creative career he craved. “Growing up, I always played with dolls. I cut their hair and put bows on them. As soon as I started hairdressing, I was super happy.”

At 15 he became an apprentice in a Stockholm salon looking after socialites and well-heeled clients. Working five-to-six days a week meant that when he started hair school, he was already on a roll: “I knew how to root colour, to blow-dry. I studied hair for three years working every day after school. I felt very much at home. Coming from a place where I had felt like a bad student into one of being nurtured was wonderful.” 

After renting a chair (‘I had my little clique of clients two years in by that time’), he opened a salon in Stockholm with his sister and a friend. “Our make-up artist friend brought models into the salon, and I did their hair. Massive baroque styles. There was no other intent back then apart from I wanted to do it.” When his friend showed her agent his work, Ali began assisting. Within six months, he was signed by her agency. “I believe you get led in a direction. I loved looking at magazines but didn’t know session styling was a thing. It still feels surreal. I feel very lucky.” Now session is Ali’s way of sculpting and connecting while amplifying his ideas. “Hair is a material you can shape. It tells you where it wants to go or what it wants to do. I love what I do. The finished result in a magazine can awaken emotions in people as it did for me when I was younger.” 

Vogue Scandinavia, Photography by Marc Hibbert

In It To Win It

Cut to 2012, and Ali won ELLE Sweden’s Best Hairstylist of the Year, scooping the title again in 2016. Most recently, he was named 2024 Most Wanted Session Stylist. “Winning meant everything to me. I couldn’t believe it. Everyone nominated is so talented,” he says. Working in Hong Kong, he found waking up to the news he had won rather surreal: “I was at breakfast in complete shock. It means people appreciate the voice I put out there. That is a truly wonderful thing.”

While clearly at the top of his game, his hair story is one of hard graft and tenacity. “I always wanted something more, so I made sure I did show season. I made sure I assisted smaller shows. I networked, worked on fashion weeks and got to know agents.” He also recognises those who helped him on his journey, including Swedish photographer Camilla Akrans. “I started working with her on campaigns, and she began putting my name out in those arenas. She played a big part in my access across the pond.” 

He also cites the late Alexander McQueen as a huge inspiration in fashion design: “He was raw, creative, authentic. He made an impact. He had no boundaries. His work still blows my mind.” Tim Walker is also a firm favourite, with their collaborative work appearing on the covers of Vogue Mexico (December 2021) and British Vogue (July 2023), among countless others (the latter capturing a shimmering army of LGBTQ+ pioneers sharing stories of style and self-discovery). “His images have so much emotion and expression,” he says. Calling their first collaboration a ‘pivotal moment’, Ali loves the fluidity of their work. “He’s so inspiring, so open to my ideas. He will ask: ‘How do YOU see this narrative come to life?’ I still can’t believe I’m lucky enough to work with him.”

Perfect Magazine, Photography by Rafael Pavarotti

Go With The Flow

His 2025 diary is already packed, with the ‘routines and pillars’, such as Fashion Week, essential elements to keeping him balanced. “People are shocked at my schedule, they don’t believe I can start at 5.30 am and finish at 11 pm. Hair work will exhaust you, so it’s important to keep a routine. You must keep taking care of yourself.” While there’s no typical day, it’s guaranteed to be organised. “The one constant is I’m up between 5am and 6am. There’s a lot of prep work to what we do. A huge amount of unpacking and repacking. I always try to be two steps ahead.”

When it comes to Fashion Week, how does he get through the gruelling schedules? “Teamwork. I’m doing the work, but I couldn’t succeed without such a strong network. You need that support. Everything has a process and we give a lot emotionally and mentally, so anything that makes it flow a little easier is a huge help.” Currently on the books at Streeters, his agent, Gary, is part of this support network. “It feels like someone constantly has your back. It’s a meaningful friendship.” 

While teamwork is a clear marker of what he loves about the session world –“It’s great to feel part of something bigger than you” – is there anything about the industry he wishes he could change? “I’m sad that print media has taken a back seat to the culture of social media,” he says. “As a creator, it saddens me. I take a lot of pride in concepts and ideas. I’m excited when a project comes out, but social media means it’s gone so fast. It’s a machine. We need to stop scrolling and take a minute.” However, he recognises that art can still ignite and excite, even on social. “People love beauty. That makes me happy, to know that so many people are being impacted and we are making an impression.”

Replica Man Magazine, Photography by Iñigo Awewave

At 44 years old and with the session world at his fashionable feet, what advice would he give his younger self? “I was very bullied growing up, and after what I went through, I would say: ‘You will be more than okay. Trust in yourself and trust in your voice. You are valid.” With his roots firmly entrenched in London, he says he’s happy to live and work in environments where he feels accepted: “We are in such a good place with inclusivity. As a gay man, I feel very lucky to be in an industry that’s open and welcoming. I feel extremely safe in this world.”

It seems as though he’s where he’s meant to be. He knows who he is and what he can bring to the campaign table. The underlying truth is that he cares. He understands what he’s capable of, and he’s not afraid to create it. He can always see his vision in a crowded space, creating and illuminating as he goes. Bravo.

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“Quite Frankly, The Manufacturers Have Abandoned This Industry” – Why Boots Was A Step Too Far For Keune Boss Darren Potter

“Quite Frankly, The Manufacturers Have Abandoned This Industry” – Why Boots Was A Step Too Far For Keune Boss Darren Potter

Jan 21, 2025 | DOCUMENTS, EXPLORE, HOME EXPLORE, HOME INFORM, TALKING SHOP

“Quite Frankly, The Manufacturers Have Abandoned This Industry” – Why Boots Was A Step Too Far For Keune Boss Darren Potter

Should pro hair brands cut out the hair pro and sell direct to the consumer? Darren Potter doesn’t think so. Since becoming UK general manager of the Dutch family-owned Keune business three years ago, he’s taken a stance, refusing to put their products into Boots or online beauty shops and declaring that “loyalty to the hair pro is at the heart of everything we do.” And guess what: people are listening…

by CATHERINE | DOCUMENTS

It would be fair to say the word ‘professional’ matters a lot to Darren Potter. He has spent more than 30 years helping professional hair brands understand how to serve and support professional hairdressers and in 2017 resigned from the role of UK general manager at Aveda when parent company Estée Lauder declared they wanted to take it omni-channel. (“I turned round and said, ‘Well, I’m not going to be the leader that does that’.”)  Potter set up his own agency, Refocus, and spent four years working solo, consulting with distributors and helping brands get back on track after the pandemic. By 2021 one of those brands was Keune.

Darren Potter

“I knew of Keune but in my mindset at the time it was a low-end market brand run by wholesalers or distributors,” recalls Potter. “But I had a call with Mr Keune and his son Eelco (who was appointed President on January 1 this year, joining his father George on the Supervisory Board) and I got on really well with them, went over to the Netherlands to look at their operation and did a presentation on why I thought they should be in the UK market. I got as far as slide five when they said, ‘We want you to start’.”

Reassured this was a brand committed to the hair pro for the longterm, Potter threw himself into the role. For the next three years, he worked tirelessly, securing warehouses and offices, creating a flagship salon and training academy, The House of Keune, in central London, signing Andrew Barton and Luke Benson as brand ambassadors and garnering increasing column inches from a fascinated trade press.

It paid off. By the start of 2025, the Keune empire stood at 485 salons in the UK, including Potter’s most prestigious signing of 2024, the six-strong Trevor Sorbie group.

“These manufacturers have left professional hairdressers high and dry by blatantly going direct to the consumer.”

There’s a lot about Keune that ticks modern hairdressing boxes: there’s a collaborative, innovative feel to the brand, the products are high quality and sustainability is a priority. But the key difference that not only sets it apart from its competitors but makes it especially attractive to hairdressers who’ve felt increasingly disillusioned in recent years, is that it’s a family business and it treats its customers like family too. At a time when other brands are cutting back on people and doing everything online, Potter is growing his team and investing in networking events that bring his customers together IRL. “Whatever we do, whatever we put into the market, we ask ourselves if this is benefiting the hairdresser; it’s got to meet that test,” says Potter. “And it’s working. It’s resonating.”

The house that Potter built: the impressive House of Keune in central London acts as a brand focal point

Keune’s commitment to the hair professional is powerful and persuasive, but there is no doubt it was strengthened significantly when in 2023 a handful of major industry bands opted to make their professional products available in high street retailer Boots. Potter was on holiday in France when the news hit but immediately put out an announcement that Keune was 100 per cent loyal to the professional hairdresser, now and forever.

“We just blasted social media with that message, and we got so much positive feedback because it was literally the day after the Boots story broke and people were really angry. And I don’t blame them – all pretence that these brands are committed to the professional was blown out of the water. It’s meant that I’m now speaking to influential people across our industry that I would never have been able to talk to before, because they see that what we’re doing and what we’re offering has integrity and is supporting them to grow their business.”

How to succeed at retail, according to Darren Potter

Don’t just put products on your shelves and hope they sell. Plan seriously.

Decide what percentage of your turnover you want retail to be and reverse engineer back from there. The two key benchmarks I talk to salons about are these: for every 10 clients that come into your salon, I want five of them converting to colour and I want five buying professional haircare. Key to both those things is getting the consultation right because clients who spend on colour will always spend money on products that will protect that colour. Plus, you’ll get more rebookings!

Although his competitors’ actions have benefitted him, Potter is bitter about the impact on the wider industry. “It really annoys me,” he says. “These manufacturers have left professional hairdressers high and dry by blatantly going direct to the consumer. They don’t care if that means they lose some business along the way – they’ll have built that into their calculations – but by prioritising their shareholders over their supposed brand values, they are causing major problems for our industry at a time when a cost of living crisis and Government legislation are already putting extra pressure onto the P&L of salon business. It’s unforgivable.”

Committed to the pro: Keune have promised their products will never be found in Boots or online beauty shops

Realistic that Keune’s professional-first stance puts it at a commercial disadvantage versus many of its rivals, Potter is nevertheless committed to growing retail sales in the professional channel. He’s created an ambassador programme that rewards salon loyalty and spend (there are separate programmes for session stylists and freelancers); the Keune online shop is set up so that salons always earn their margins, even if the consumer is buying direct; and Potter has even set up the business-focused Keune University that his team are obliged to attend three times a year so they can pass on the latest insight and knowledge to Keune customers.

“What we’ve got to get better at in our industry is helping our customers to understand how retail can happen because hairdressers just switch off to it, thinking they can’t compete with online,” he says. “One of the most important things in a retail environment is getting the client in the seat because 97 per cent of the time that results in a purchase. Salons get consumers in the seat immediately but what they’re not good at is doing a really bespoke consultation with a prescriptive recommendation. We need to go back to the basics, which are that the hairdresser is the professional, with the right and the authority to tell the client what they must use and how to use it.”

There’s no doubt Potter is fired up about the future, and given how industry disillusionment has led to many salons looking around for new partner brands, 2025 could be a huge year for Keune. “I was with a very influential hairdresser the other day and he was saying to me, ‘There’s no other brands doing what you’re doing, but I think you need to dial up how you communicate that into the industry, and don’t be afraid of upsetting the competition because they’ve already stuck their two fingers up to us.’ And I totally get that. I do want people to look at Keune and think, ‘That’s the brand I want to work with.’  But the most important thing to me is that if you’re unhappy with what your brand is doing, don’t just moan and groan – walk away. There are so many companies that will support you and help you grow, You’ve just got to pick the right one.”

Discover more about what retail looks like now in the February issue of Creative HEAD.

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