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Riding The Wave: The Perm Is Back – But Not As We Knew It

Riding The Wave: The Perm Is Back – But Not As We Knew It

Jan 10, 2025 | DOCUMENTS, DOCUMENTS HEADER, EXPLORE, HOME EXPLORE

Riding The Wave: The Perm Is Back – But Not As We Knew It

Things have come a long way since Dirty Dancing’s Jon and Baby mega-curly numbers

by CATHERNE | DOCUMENTS

At Rhona McCallum Hair in Alloa, Clackmannanshire, curls are definitely on the up. “I’ve noticed growing demand for styling tips for curly hair and beachy waves are beginning to look a little more defined and curled,” says Rhona. “We’ve even started to get clients requesting perms these days.”

Yep, Rhona dropped the P-bomb.

Perms – the mainstay of salon business in the 1980’s – used to be synonymous with stiff, bouffant, larger-than-life ringlets that smelled of damage and demanded moisturising. Three decades later they’re creeping back into salon conversations – but not as we knew them. Condition now comes before style, with modern perm formulations full of caring and strengthening technologies that allow the shape to hold while protecting the integrity of hair.

And this time around, they’re not just for women. Salons are reporting that more men are getting their hair permed than ever before, attracted by the idea of a low-maintenance, wavy look inspired by curly haired style icons such as Gladiator 2 star Paul Mescal, Jeremy Allen White (The Bear) and Hollywood heartthrob Timothee Chalamet, who enjoyed what a body language expert called “his own private date night” with girlfriend Kylie Jenner at the recent Golden Globe awards.

The modern male perm comes with a playful vibe at Woolf, London

“In the last 12 to 18 months we’ve had a real shift with men coming in asking for perms, sometimes as many as three or four a week,” says Joe Mills, owner of Woolf in Kings Cross. It’s meant that Mills has had to dig out his decades-old bag of grey and blue plastic rods (though he now mixes them with Molton Brown-style bendy rods to give a softer result) and train his team in the art of perming – including how to use the plastic strips so you don’t get the rubber band marks in the hair (that’s skill!). For the artfully curly results, Woolf charges anything from £75 to £150, depending on length of hair and how many rods are required, “Which is pretty much all profit, once you take your labour charges out,” says Mills, “and once a client gets into having their hair permed they come back to get the roots re-done, so you could be doing a perm every two or three months. From a business perspective, perms are quite a big earner.”

Riding the wave at Woolf. For the full video click here.

Once considered a relic of the past, perms for guys have made an incredible (and somewhat unexpected) comeback, driven by cultural influences from the world of K-pop and social media. Bro perms may be relatively new in the West, but men in Japan and South Korea have been getting their hair permed for decades, and at least since 2020, Korean stars like Jungkook from BTS and Chen from EXO have been setting hearts aflame with their soft curls.

The soft, wavy perm is a staple of the K-pop look, blending a playful vibe with a touch of sophistication. Its top curls are tender and loose; the hairstyle is versatile and can be combed over or worn with a fringe; and the sides and back of the head are faded short with clippers and scissors. For a little more money, a client can choose what’s known as a down perm, which relaxes and flattens stubborn strands that stick out, creating a smoother appearance.

But the real brisk trade in male perms is driven by Gen-Z boys and TikTok. At first it was atrendy look for influencers with straight hair, like US social media sensation Jacob Sartorius and the adored and eagerly watched Nic Kaufmann, who back in 2020 posted an “I might have got a perm” video. Then the pandemic happened, salons and barbershops shut down, and a lot of the e-boys ended up on TikTok just as their already-long-on-top hair was growing out. And as straight and wavy hair grows, its weight can drag a voluminous look down. So, what’s a TikToker to do? Get a perm.

“God help you if you don’t neutralise properly. Back in the day, when I was an assistant, if I didn’t neutralise a perm, I got it in the neck!” – Joe Mills, Woolf London

And what a look: a pile of fluffed curls, with stacked layers for height and a deep fade on the sides and in the back. “I don’t even know if this haircut has a name,” says Mills, “and I don’t think anyone’s actually claiming you need to go and get a perm but I think kids with straight hair are saying, ‘I want curly hair’ and either their peers or their mum is turning round and going, ‘Well, you need to have a perm.’ And they’re not going to a barbershop for that look, they’re going to Toni&Guy. It’s a shift that reminds me so much of how I used to go to the barbers with my dad when I was growing up and then, when I was about 12 or 13 and I wanted highlights and a wedge, I went to my mum’s unisex salon. I’m not saying that barbers can’t perm, but when it comes to technical services people tend to look for those in mainstream salons.”

One thing’s for sure, these Gen-Z boys are definitely into their hair.

“The current crop of teens – and I’m talking from 14 to early 20s – they really know what they want. Their identity is really locked in,” says Mills. “My son and his mates, they’ve all got their own hair products, they’ve got their own hairdryers, they know what they’re doing. There was a period of time when a lot of the barbering haircuts were pretty low-maintenance from a regime point of view, whereas for this look, you definitely need to put the work in.”

So, the perm has evolved, just like its clientele. But the killer question: what about the smell?“Oh god, it’s still just as bad as ever,” says Mills. “There are perms out there where they’ve managed to get rid of the smell, but we noticed that often those perms drop out quickly. So,we use the old-style formulations because perming is quite a labour-intensive process and you don’t want to take a chance on using a product that’s not going to work and cost you twice the amount of time, right? And as any hairdresser of a certain age will remember, knowing when a perm is ready – when you’ve got exactly the right amount of curl – that’s all done by eye. And god help you if you don’t neutralise properly. Back in the day, when I was an assistant, if I didn’t neutralise a perm, I got it in the neck!”

The Return of the Perm

They renamed the perm the form service, now they’ve reformulated the chemicals to make it safer and friendlier. Meet the modern perm formulations:

Dulcia from L’Oréal Professionnel Paris has a cult following in perming circles, thanks to its consistent results. Choose Dulcia Advanced for firm, bouncy curls, Dulcia Advanced Tonique for modern, ultra-conditioned waves, and Dulcia 0 for natural and resistant hair, complete with single use neutraliser. The rest of the family is back by popular demand, with 1 for “Natural” hair, 1 Tonique for “Natural” hair and 2 Tonique for “Sensitized” hair. All available in 75ml single use bottles, with one-litre Neutraliser sold separately at the L’Oréal Partner Shop.

Wella Professionals have two different perming kits, each containing a perming lotion, neutraliser and per-perm treatment. Creatine+ Curl for bouncy curls, and Creatine+ for natural waves both come in variants for resistant and sensitised hair, with high-conditioning agents to leave hair with extra elasticity, bounce and shine and a new redberry rose fragrance that helps to create a more pleasant perming experience for clients!

Available from the Wella Professionals Store.

As you would expect from a brand focused on sustainability and respect natural beauty, the professional curling and waving systems from Davines deliver beautiful, natural movement while respecting the health of the hair. Use the ammonia-free Balance Curling system to achieve uniform, shiny, soft results from roots to ends, while the Bouclé Waving system ensures soft and natural curls that retain elasticity and volume over time. Formulas are enriched with cysteamine, a natural active ingredient that has a structure similar to that of hair and creates a natural waving.

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Sam McKnight: Why I’ve Joined A New Union For Fashion Creatives

Sam McKnight: Why I’ve Joined A New Union For Fashion Creatives

Dec 18, 2024 | DOCUMENTS, DOCUMENTS HEADER, EXPLORE, HOME EXPLORE

Sam McKnight: Why I’ve Joined A New Union For Fashion Creatives

Set up to tackle widespread exploitative workplace practices, Bectu Fashion UK hopes to bring about change

by CATHERINE | DOCUMENTS

In March 2024, not long after the A/W show season had come to a close, Creative HEAD reported on how hair creatives were being bullied to work for free in a fashion industry that generates an astonishing £37bn every year, according to the British Fashion Council. Sadly, low – or often no – pay, long hours and toxic workplace cultures are the norm for many freelance session stylists, as well as the make-up artists, clothes stylists and nail techs who work alongside them.

And it’s not just young talents at the outset of their career who are affected. Even session legend Sam McKnight gets treated badly. “As with everything in life, the money stays at the top and doesn’t trickle down – and hair and make-up are the easiest victims,” he says.

Well, now Sam – and the many thousands of other creatives who work in fashion backstage, on set and for the red carpet – have a new champion. Bectu, the long-established union representing staff, contract and freelance workers in the media and entertainment industries, has been working with a  specialist committee to help fashion creatives launch a union all for themselves. And now it’s ready.

Bectu Fashion UK is a new branch of Bectu that has been created specifically to represent freelance hairdressers and other creatives in a non-performance fashion role. Membership gives you access to advice on any aspect of your work, from whether your pay is above national minimum wage to bullying, as well as a 24-hour legal support helpline, assistance with chasing monies owed and discounted Public Liability Insurance that’s tailored specifically to fashion creatives. There are also plans to provide tools, training and guidance to help fashion workers negotiate their pay, terms and conditions.

Membership fees are dependent on your gross annual earnings, ranging from £10/month to £350 annually.

“Because there’s no history of unionisation in fashion, this is a space that we need people to buy into, because if we don’t get that groundswell of involvement, it’s not going to work”

But Bectu and the Fashion UK committee are clear that for this new union to work, everybody needs to work together and participate. The more people who join Bectu Fashion UK, the bigger the opportunity to change the industry for the better – for example, by demanding fair pay and treatment – and the approach they are taking is highly collaborative. They’ve set up a WhatsApp group you can join, even if you’re not a Bectu member, so you can share experiences with fellow fashion creatives, you have access to member meetings and you can even join the committee yourself when elections come around. And because Bectu has helped many other similar sectors to unionise, they can look to those for guidance and learnings and to understand how to make progress more quickly.

Says Bectu Negotiations Executive, Naomi Taylor: “Because there’s no history of unionisation in fashion, what we’re saying is this is a space that we need people to buy into, because if we don’t get that groundswell of involvement, it’s not going to work. Yes, we need membership subscriptions to resource it, but we also need people to participate in things like surveys so we can get data around the issues that people are dealing with and that will allow us to work out what we can do to help.”

The Fashion UK committee is clear that understanding the key issues facing sector workers is vital, and has already conducted a survey of around 500 fashion creatives, the results of which will be released in February 2025, ahead of Fashion Week (see snapshot below).

Says Naomi: “If we can build the numbers to a kind of tipping point, where we can start to campaign on the issues that are coming out of the survey, then we can start to put pressure on employers and on government also, because a lot of the changes that are being introduced around employment rights are not going to be impactful for people who are self-employed or freelancers. This is one of the most important things about being in a union – having someone to speak up for you.”

Bectu Fashion UK committee member Famida Pathan is a freelance make-up artist with first-hand experience of typical freelance struggles. She finds being part of Bectu Fashion UK particularly useful when dealing with issues like monies owed: “In the past, I found myself pursuing bad debt through the Small Claims Courts. But having a union means I can go to someone who will step in on my behalf, whether that’s talking to the client directly or even pursuing a legal claim if they think there’s a good chance of success. I’ve been working in this industry for 20 years and this is the first time I’ve felt there’s support for me in my career. I no longer feel like I’m on my own.”

“I’ve joined Bectu Fashion UK because things need to change” – Sam McKnight

“The situation for fashion creatives has been getting incrementally worse over the past 20 years. It’s multi-layered, but there’s been a devaluation of what we do, a lack of respect. We’re not called ‘hair and make-up’ anymore; since social media came along, we’re Glam Squad. I find that offensive because it diminishes what we do and takes away your individuality.

 

“It’s come about because there are people working in the industry now who are not educated in what it is we do and have no idea of what’s gone before and what we need. They’re just a person with a clipboard. As a consequence, backstage conditions have become scuzzier, smaller and with the wrong kind of equipment. Meanwhile, on set you’ll find that the lighting guy and the caterer will get credited, but not the hair and make-up. And this is despite the fact that beauty advertising is bringing in more money for magazines than fashion. And if Vogue aren’t crediting you, then that sends a message down the line that everyone thinks that’s okay.

“In the piece that Creative HEAD wrote about pay someone said something that I found interesting – that we shouldn’t get too pushy about being paid because we’re creating art. And I thought, ‘Yes, absolutely. And that’s where the abuse starts.’ Because these people know that we’re so desperate to create that, and of course we’ll do it for free, but actually it’s not your art – you are creating it for somebody else who owns it. It’s never yours unless you’ve paid for it.

“The reason why I’ve joined Bectu Fashion UK and am advocating for them is because things need to change. I can speak up because I don’t give a shit if people don’t book me anymore, whereas someone less established in their career might not want to for fear of getting blacklisted. I’ve heard a few horror stories from people saying their agents have forbidden them to join any union, which is totally illegal. The agent is now bullying the stylist!

“So, yes, there will be people who don’t want to change the status-quo because they can draw on this amazing talent pool for free and they don’t want the uprising. But that’s not going to stop us. It’s important that we structure minimum day rates and impose certain working conditions, because otherwise the Wild West will continue. Bectu Fashion UK is something I believe in and something I feel our industry needs. And I’m excited that in 2025 we’re really going to go for it!”

Sam McKnight’s award-winning haircare and styling range, Hair By Sam McKnight, is now available to be stocked in salons. For more info contact salons@sammcknight.com.

“I’ve joined Bectu Fashion UK because things need to change” – Sam McKnight

“The situation for fashion creatives has been getting incrementally worse over the past 20 years. It’s multi-layered, but there’s been a devaluation of what we do, a lack of respect. We’re not called ‘hair and make-up’ anymore; since social media came along, we’re Glam Squad. I find that offensive because it diminishes what we do and takes away your individuality.

“It’s come about because there are people working in the industry now who are not educated in what it is we do and have no idea of what’s gone before and what we need. They’re just a person with a clipboard. As a consequence, backstage conditions have become scuzzier, smaller and with the wrong kind of equipment. Meanwhile, on set you’ll find that the lighting guy and the caterer will get credited, but not the hair and make-up. And this is despite the fact that beauty advertising is bringing in more money for magazines than fashion. And if Vogue aren’t crediting you, then that sends a message down the line that everyone thinks that’s okay.

“In the piece that Creative HEAD wrote about pay someone said something that I found interesting – that we shouldn’t get too pushy about being paid because we’re creating art. And I thought, ‘Yes, absolutely. And that’s where the abuse starts.’ Because these people know that we’re so desperate to create that, and of course we’ll do it for free, but actually it’s not your art – you are creating it for somebody else who owns it. It’s never yours unless you’ve paid for it.

“The reason why I’ve joined Bectu Fashion UK and am advocating for them is because things need to change. I can speak up because I don’t give a shit if people don’t book me anymore, whereas someone less established in their career might not want to for fear of getting blacklisted. I’ve heard a few horror stories from people saying their agents have forbidden them to join any union, which is totally illegal. The agent is now bullying the stylist!

“So, yes, there will be people who don’t want to change the status-quo because they can draw on this amazing talent pool for free and they don’t want the uprising. But that’s not going to stop us. It’s important that we structure minimum day rates and impose certain working conditions, because otherwise the Wild West will continue. Bectu Fashion UK is something I believe in and something I feel our industry needs. And I’m excited that in 2025 we’re really going to go for it!”

Sam McKnight’s award-winning haircare and styling range, Hair By Sam McKnight, is now available to be stocked in salons. For more info contact salons@sammcknight.com.

Eight in 10 UK fashion creatives pressured to work for free, research shows

In autumn 2024, Bectu Fashion UK surveyed more than 500 fashion creatives working in roles such as hair and make-up artists, assistants, fashion and accessories designers and photographers about their workplace experiences. The survey found that:

• Just one in ten fashion creatives (10 per cent) say they feel secure in their job.

• Only 14 per cent are paid on time for the work they do.

• Half (51per cent) of fashion creatives are earning under £30,000 a year before tax from their work in the industry.

• More than seven in ten have struggled financially (72 per cent)  in the past year

• Eight in ten (79 per cent) have felt pressured to work for free.

• And 83 per cent say that behaviours that would be considered toxic and inappropriate in public life are often tolerated in the fashion industry.

The responses also paint a bleak picture of poor work/life balance, with more than 7 in 10 reporting struggling with their mental health in the past year, and most (59%) saying their work has negatively impacted their personal relationships.

“Under-paid, under-respected and have no one to tell this to because HR is in the pockets of the CEO, who is our boss” – senior creative assistant

“The expectation seems to be that we, as freelancers, can be paid whenever suits the employer. There’s no other industry where you provide a service, and all terms are blatantly ignored with no consequences. It feels to me that it’s getting worse year on year” – photographic assistant

The full survey results will be published by Bectu Fashion UK in February 2025, just before London Fashion Week. Creative HEAD will report the findings as soon as they are made available.

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“It Would Be So Beautiful If More Businesses Could Take A Pause To Give Back” – Why Wildflower Closes On The Busiest Day Of The Year

“It Would Be So Beautiful If More Businesses Could Take A Pause To Give Back” – Why Wildflower Closes On The Busiest Day Of The Year

Dec 5, 2024 | DOCUMENTS, DOCUMENTS HEADER, EXPLORE, HOME EXPLORE

“It Would Be So Beautiful If More Businesses Could Take A Pause To Give Back” – Why Wildflower Closes On The Busiest Day Of The Year

Wildflower’s Give Back Day honours community, compassion and connection on the busiest retail day of the year, 23rd December

by MADDI | DOCUMENTS

Wildflower Dublin closes for Giveback Day

For six years running, Wildflower in Dublin has made the bold and compassionate choice to close its doors to paying customers on 23 December, the busiest day of the year, to give back to the community. The salon’s annual ‘Give Back Day’ has become a cherished tradition, creating space for connection, support and reflection on what the holiday season is truly about. 

“I wanted to do something at the end of the year to bring everyone together, to create a connection, and to remind us what life is about,” says Danielle Garner, owner of Wildflower. “It’s so easy to get caught up in the material side of Christmas, but this day is about something deeper.” 

The tradition began in 2018 with free haircuts for members of the homeless community. “The first year, I went to Dublin Simon Community and looked after people who were homeless, doing their hair for Christmas,” Danielle recalls. “The following year, we did it for parents of children who were terminally ill at our local hospital. That was the most profound year. It was the start of something bigger for us.” 

Wildflower Dublin Giveback boxes

Wildflower Dublin goodie bag

That second year also marked a significant shift for the Wildflower team. Before opening the salon for Give Back Day, the staff participated in a yoga and cacao ceremony. “That morning in 2019 was really impactful. It shifted something in the team – it allowed them to be more open, to express emotions,” Danielle shares. “There were a lot of tears and open hearts. It changed the course of Wildflower, leading us to embrace wellness more holistically in our work.” 

Over the years, Wildflower has tailored each year’s Give Back Day to different causes. “One year, we focused on people surviving domestic abuse. Another year, we supported families through Laura Lynn,” Danielle explains. “Laura Lynn helps families with housing, funding, and emotional support for children who are unwell, and they also have a children’s hospice.” 

This year’s event follows a format that worked well in 2023. Families are invited to the salon in small groups, divided into time slots. “We start with parents whose children are unwell, then parents who have lost children. It gives them a chance to talk to others who’ve been through the same experience,” Danielle explains. “It’s a safe space for connection, and we’ve seen how much it helps.” 

Wildflower’s generosity extends beyond haircuts. Local businesses contribute to goodie bags for the guests, adding thoughtful touches to the day. “Chupi, the jewellery brand, always includes something beautiful – sometimes a piece of jewellery or a Christmas ornament,” Danielle shares. “Mysa Homeware, a vegan candle and soap brand, is contributing this year, and Urban Health is providing catering with nutritious granola pots and fruit and juice for the day.” 

Danielle is hopeful other businesses will join the success of Give Back Day. “I don’t know of anyone else doing something like this in the industry,” she says. “It would be so beautiful if more businesses could pause to give back. Even if they can’t close for the day, contributing to goodie bags or supporting events like this would make such a difference.” 

Want to join the spirit of giving? Businesses can contribute to Wildflower’s goodie bags or start their own version of Give Back Day. Let’s make this season a little brighter for those who need it most. Reach out to Wildflower to learn more! 

Wildflower Dublin salon

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“The Important Thing Is Giving People The Freedom To Express Themselves”

“The Important Thing Is Giving People The Freedom To Express Themselves”

Nov 25, 2024 | DOCUMENTS, DOCUMENTS HEADER, EXPLORE, HOME EXPLORE

“The Important Thing Is Giving People The Freedom To Express Themselves”

Pont Smith and Chloe Herve’s ethics-first business ethos has taken their bebop salon brand from tiny start-up to an award-winning mega-space that’s on the radar of major fashion brands.

by CATHERINE | DOCUMENTS

bebop team members

The bebop team set the mood – and the clients love it

Launched by Pont Smith and Chloe Herve in 2017, bebop is an industry success story – a bright, airy salon in London’s Holloway with a brilliant vibe, great music and a team of big, colourful personalities, who, alongside hair and nail services, do a roaring trade in tooth gems. People love the quirkiness. Two-and-a-half years ago, bebop had to expand into sizeable new premises to cope with surging client demand. In the last 12 months it’s made the Best London Hair Salon list in TimeOut magazine and won Best Salon Team at Creative HEAD’s Most Wanted awards.

We’re not surprised. Because if you ever needed an example of a modern, forward-thinking hairdressing business with a completely fresh approach to creativity, teamwork and clients, bebop is it. Chloe and Pont have built their brand carefully and ethically from day one, pioneering gender-neutral pricing and eco-conscious practices long before they were trendy and priding themselves on providing inclusive, super-friendly service and a buzzing atmosphere in the salon. Their overriding ethos? “Treat other people the way you would want to be treated yourself.”

Pont Smith

Pont Smith

“When Chloe and I went into business there was a lot of stuff that we’d always moaned about in our own careers, so we made a pact that we would never do that to anyone else,” says Pont. “Listening and communication are such a big thing with us and expressing thanks as well. We know we are lucky we’ve got such good stylists with us, and we couldn’t be where we are without them, so gratitude’s a big one and just trusting them as well.”

The bebop team is undoubtedly a big part of the brand’s success – a bunch of 22 charismatic extroverts that clients love to be around. But with the vast majority declaring some form of neuro-divergency, Pont and Chloe have had to figure out a different way of working to create the perfect environment for them to feel comfortable.

“Our business model has always been quite open – everyone’s individual and that’s how I try to run the business. So, if someone wants to do four days, they work four days. If someone wants to be employed, they can be. It’s kind of down to them. With mental health being such a big issue, I think you need a bit more freedom nowadays, you can’t put everyone in the same box. And while it can be a bit chaotic at times, the team genuinely care about what they do, they’re completely invested in it and they work really hard at it, too.”

“Our business model has always been quite open – everyone’s individual and I want us to reflect that”

While Chloe takes care of the numbers in the business, Pont, whose background is in education, takes care of the people – but with such big characters to deal with, he admits he’s got his work cut out. “Team meetings can be quite taxing!” he smiles. “But the important thing is giving people the freedom to express themselves. Creating the right atmosphere is key when you’re dealing with neuro-divergency and that trickles down from the top. I spend time making sure I’m mentally fit and kind on myself because that works down to the guys on the floor. And our atmosphere is what the clients really enjoy and comment on.”

bebop at Most Wanted Grand Final

bebop strike a pose at the 2024 Most Wanted Grand Final

When Chloe and Pont launched their business, they talked about flipping the hair industry on its head. “We wanted to do everything differently,” says Pont. “We wanted to think the opposite of what the industry was thinking – it’s the only way to make the industry grow.” When, after two-and-a-half years, bebop moved into its current, much bigger premises, a key part of the vision was to use the space for events and to create a sense of community among London salons that they felt was lacking back then. The salon’s pub quizzes, led by the team, are legendary (a recent St Patrick’s Day edition saw clients buying tables and staff pulling pints of Guinness), and the bebop Hair Jam, where the team invites 12 hairstylists from all over the UK and Europe to showcase their work (“There’s no judgment, no competition, we’re all just there having a good time looking at good work and sharing ideas and networking”), is fast becoming a recognised annual industry event.

bebop salon

bebop’s salon doubles up as an event space

Collaborations are another line of interest. In May 2023 bebop were approached by SSHH Ltd, the creative agency for the Kickers shoe brand, who were gearing up to relaunch the Kade shoe and saw bebop as the ideal venue to captivate the youthful, fashion-forward target market. The salon was transformed into a vibrant showcase for fashion, fun and creativity, with DJs providing the sounds, attendees hitting the dancefloor, and the bebop team providing hairstyling with colourful hair beads, exclusive nail art and tooth gem installations. “I never see hair salons collaborating with big brands like that,” says Pont. “It was a lot of hard work because we’re such a small team to be working out all the logistics and stuff, but it was a cool thing to be part of and our team loved it.”  The team is now planning a collaboration with homeless charity Crisis, as well as exploring opportunities with other clothing brands. “We’re just figuring things out with them, seeing whether there’s a good fit,” says Pont.

“I spend time making sure I’m mentally fit and kind on myself because that works down to the guys on the floor”

Looking to the future, bebop is all about pushing the boundaries of what a salon can be. The business has set up an online shop selling a range of bebop merchandise, including neon mugs, logo T-shirts and a bebop camo cap that sold out within days (such are the benefits of having a clientele that can’t get enough of you!). “We’re even considering creating our own product line,” says Pont. “Our dream is to see bebop’s concept take off in different parts of the world.”

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The Value In Finding Creative Outlets Outside Of Hair

The Value In Finding Creative Outlets Outside Of Hair

Nov 20, 2024 | DOCUMENTS, DOCUMENTS HEADER, HOME EXPLORE

The Value In Finding Creative Outlets Outside Of Hair

Five hair pros share how they switch off while keeping the creative fires burning

by KELSEY | DOCUMENTS

El Viaje Scents

In a world where most of us are ‘chronically online,’ it’s never been more important to seek out ways to switch off and stay away from screens. As naturally creative people, many hair professionals are turning their attention to other creative outlets outside of working hours. From fashion styling and dance to candle-making and gardening, hair pros have a whole host of passion projects away from the chair – with some even pursuing them as additional business ventures.

“Working in the hair industry demands a lot. We are up close and personal with our clients all day,” says Stephen Aiken, colourist at Pure Hair in Belfast, who has discovered a passion for creating fragrances and candles. “When I’m creating my scents, I get to be in my studio alone, enjoying some much-needed ‘me’ time—just myself with some music or even a podcast in the background,” he explains.  

Stephen Aiken

Stephen Aiken

Stephen was drawn to creating fragrances because of the fascinating chemistry behind them, where blending different scents can evoke distinct moods and atmospheres. What started as a love of buying candles and scents for his home led to a lightbulb moment of wanting to create his own fragrances based on his favourite aromas.  “There’s nothing better than getting home from a busy day at work, putting my feet up and setting the mood with the warm glow of a candle,” he comments.

What started as a small-scale project creating candles for himself, as well as friends and family, has grown into a business venture, with Stephen launching El Viaje, offering a range of charcoal incense, room sprays and wax melts. “There is so much involved in creating a scent, and the fun part is coming up with the combination—a little bit of this and a little bit of that to create the perfect blend. It’s the same as when I create colour mixtures for my clients,” he adds.

Likewise, for freelance hairdresser Justin Meckland, it’s been important to find a passive project which allows him to switch off and focus on another creative industry he loves – fashion styling. “Being a hairstylist has become part of my personality – since going freelance this was the perfect opportunity to explore my love for fashion styling on a deeper level and study online with the London College of Style,” Justin explains.

While he may admit to never fully switching off from his work as a hairdresser, committing to the styling course enabled Justin to set aside a day each week to turn his phone on ‘do not disturb’ and fully immerse himself in the world of fashion, completing weekly assignments and discovering more about the industry. “I’m constantly creating mood boards based on things like fashion through the decades, or drafting editorial submissions for projects, so the creative juices are always flowing,” he adds.

A world away from fashion styling but equally as mindful, salon owner Oliver Blackaby uses gardening as a source of creative expression.  For as long as he can remember, Oliver has had a deep love of gardening, but over the past two years it’s transformed from a casual hobby into a source of relaxation and even therapy. “Gardening, for me, is an art form,” he comments. “It’s about layering textures and colours, experimenting with plant combinations, and embracing the challenges of finding compatible plants that thrive together in light or shade.”

 

Justin Meckland

Justin on set styling

The results of Oliver’s hard work

In the past year, he has taken on some ambitious projects in the garden that have pushed him both creatively and physically. Last year, he relocated his fishpond to a new area and added a water feature. “The soothing sound of water has become a central part of my garden, offering a peaceful spot to meditate and unwind,” Oliver shares. “This year, I took on the challenge of building a nature pond, a sanctuary for frogs and other critters. This project breathed new life into a neglected part of the garden, transforming it into a vibrant, thriving ecosystem.”

Gardening has become more than just a pastime for Oliver, it’s a way for him to engage with life on multiple levels—creatively, physically and spiritually. “It’s where I find peace, challenge myself and connect with the world around me.”

For hairdressing apprentice Rhys Cockell, switching off and pursuing other creative endeavours has also helped him become immersed in another community, the Welsh Ballroom Community, which celebrates the Welsh ballroom scene in Wales. “Initially, it was my housemate who asked about going to some open sessions running in my city,” Rhys explains. “It was just after the final round of COVID lockdowns, and I thought it would be a way to break up the routine of going to work and coming home.”

Rhys had long admired Ballroom from a distance, through the lenses of Paris is Burning and watching Kendrick Mugler’s YouTube channel, so decided to go to the session. Since then, it’s become his main creative outlet and has actively been competing in the in the Kiki scene for around ten months. “Ballroom helps me switch off from work because the creativity for me is in different areas,” Rhys shares.

The Ballroom scene brings together a wide range of cultures and identities, meaning Rhys is influenced by the varying interpretations of the categories, which helps him stay creative. “A lot of the time we are creating effects (costumes) out of a shoestring budget or last minute and that to me is where the creativity lies. Ballroom teaches you to really go in on an idea.”

Rhys in motion captured by @hannahtottlephoto

 

Whether from the comfort of your home or garden or joining other communities to participate in activities, the value of switching off cannot be understated. Not only beneficial for mental health, but it can also spark inspiration and allow you to express yourself outside of the salon environment. It’s an opportunity to nurture your other talents – and the results speak for themselves. Case in point, Richard Phillipart’s impressive embroidery.

What started as a way to stop looking at screens after work has blossomed into beautiful artwork. “Embroidery requires both hands and demands your complete attention, there is no way I can find myself on a screen if I’m doing needlework,” he explains.  “So much of my time is consumed by hairdressing that I wanted an outlet that had nothing to do with the industry. My mum crossed stitched, and as a very gay child I would practise with her but nothing like the work I’m creating now. When looking for a craft to keep me off screens I thought this skill may still be in the recesses of my memory and I could tap into it,” he adds.

Richard is still trying to find his artistic style in this medium, as it’s traditionally a woman’s craft, so inspiration in a modern, less flowery style is limited. “I started out recreating paintings by famous artists like Picasso and Dali but felt constrained trying to recreate existing imagery. Lately, I’ve been exploring more modern art styles that allow for interpretation such as psychedelics, graffiti and cartoons.”

Richard’s epic embroidery

What is most apparent is there’s no one set passion project that you should or shouldn’t follow. Consider this your sign to nurture your inner child and tap into your interests, who knows where it could lead…

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‘At KIT, Everything Is Prescriptive And Tailored To The Individual’ – Inside Karrie Fitz’s Vision For Elevating Hairdressing Talent

‘At KIT, Everything Is Prescriptive And Tailored To The Individual’ – Inside Karrie Fitz’s Vision For Elevating Hairdressing Talent

Nov 19, 2024 | DOCUMENTS, DOCUMENTS HEADER, EXPLORE, HOME EXPLORE

‘At KIT, Everything Is Prescriptive And Tailored To The Individual’ – Inside Karrie Fitz’s Vision For Elevating Hairdressing Talent

From behind the chair to elevating global talent, Karrie Fitz of KIT Studios reveals the emotional and strategic alchemy behind building a successful hairdressing career and brand. 

by MADDI | DOCUMENTS

Karrie Fitz

For Karrie Fitz, founder of KIT Studios, the journey into the hair industry has been anything but traditional. From starting as a salon assistant in Ireland to leading a forward-thinking agency that reshapes how hair professionals approach business, Karrie’s career has been defined by creativity, adaptability and a drive to elevate the craft. 

“Hair was always my path,” Karrie explains. Growing up in a household surrounded by creativity – her parents ran a garden centre – Karrie was drawn to hands-on work. ‘It wasn’t so much why hair but rather, what else could I have done? Hair was a natural fit.’ 

With the encouragement of her mother, Karrie wrote a CV and landed a job at Hugh Campbell Hair Group in Ireland. “I loved it so much,” she recalls. “But after 10 years, I realised being behind the chair wasn’t for me. At 25, I wanted to do something different – not out of hair, but not doing hair in the traditional sense.” 

In search of inspiration, Karrie took a trip to London with a friend. “We were walking around Notting Hill, popping into vintage shops and I suddenly thought, ‘I’m moving here.’ A month later, I was in London.” 

Karrie’s first role in London was with Rush Hair, where she earned accolades like Newcomer of the Year and a spot on the junior art team. Yet, something still didn’t feel right. “I thought moving to London meant I’d be doing shows and Fashion Week, but it was still five days behind the chair. It wasn’t the change I was looking for.” 

KIT Instagram

@kitstudios on Instagram

KIT Instagram

After a year and a half, Karrie left Rush to go freelance, assisting on music videos and editorial shoots. “I entered a competition with Rankin and created some of my proudest work. But even then, I knew I wasn’t quite where I wanted to be.” 

A chance opportunity at L’Oréal marked a turning point. Initially freelancing as an educator, Karrie transitioned into a full-time role after six months. “Moving into the corporate world was worlds apart from salon life. I struggled with presenting myself in a corporate way. But with the right mentorship, I found my footing and started to thrive.” 

Karrie’s creative instincts quickly found a new outlet in digital strategy. While working on L’Oréal Professionnel Paris’ Instagram account, she noticed a gap in the content. “The page was very consumer-focused, but we were talking to hairdressers. I wanted to showcase the amazing work happening in our academy every day.” 

To address this, Karrie launched L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Education UK on Instagram – a bold move that grew the page by 30,000 followers in just six months. “That was a real pivot point for me. It showed me the potential of digital platforms in connecting with hairdressers and elevating their work.” 

After five years at L’Oréal, Karrie moved to Hamburg to work with Schwarzkopf Professional. “Working on a global scale was amazing. I collaborated with incredible talent like Paddy McDougall and Andy Smith and led projects like Essential Looks and Indola’s Street Style collections.’ 

Despite the professional success, Karrie felt isolated in Germany. “I didn’t speak German, and I was quite lonely. So, I decided to return to London.” 

Back in London, Karrie collaborated closely with Jack Howard, helping him grow his digital profile. “We worked on fine-tuning his content to go viral while adding real value for his audience. It was such a buzz to see the results – thousands of new followers, millions of views. It was success after success.”

The momentum led to the creation of KIT Studios in 2021. “I wanted to build something that truly supported hair talent and brands, helping them grow their profiles and achieve their goals. At KIT, everything is prescriptive and tailored to the individual. It’s about mentoring and strategising in a way that’s unique to each client.”

Karrie emphasises the emotional aspect of the work. “A lot of what we do is addressing emotional blockers. Whether it’s fear, limiting beliefs or confidence issues, we sit with those and help people move forward. Growth often comes from discomfort and that’s where the magic happens.”

KIT Studios has since expanded into consumer PR and content production, with plans for further growth. “We want to elevate the industry by thinking outside of it. Our team works to create fresh, exciting opportunities for our clients, whether that’s through PR, events or digital strategy.”

Looking ahead, Karrie is developing a digital platform to serve hair professionals at all stages of their careers. “It’s a one-stop destination for hairdressers worldwide. Whether you’re looking to collaborate, find freelance work, or simply grow your profile, this platform will be for you.”

Reflecting on her journey, Karrie shares, “I’ve been told before that the most valuable person on your team is the one who doesn’t always agree with you. At KIT, we’re not afraid to have honest conversations, even when they’re uncomfortable. That’s where real growth happens – for us and our clients.”

From her early days in Ireland to the launch of KIT Studios, Karrie Fitz has remained committed to elevating the hair industry, one connection at a time. “It’s about creating spaces where people can thrive, both creatively and professionally. That’s what keeps me excited and inspired every day.”

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