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“We Didn’t Have Access To The Tools We Deserved”

“We Didn’t Have Access To The Tools We Deserved”

“We Didn’t Have Access To The Tools We Deserved”

What started as a side-hustle to help friends get their hands on Japanese hair grips is now a thriving business endorsed by the world’s top session stylists. Creative HEAD meets Anna Chapman, founder of Session Kit

by CATHERINE | CONVERSATIONS

Anna Chapman

It was when she found herself on her hands and knees on the floor, frantically searching for the Japanese-made hair grips discarded by Eugene Souleiman and his team after a Fashion Week show, that Anna Chapman thought, ‘It shouldn’t have to be like this.’

The up-and-coming young session stylist had worked incredibly hard to establish herself on the fashion circuit, sacrificing free time and a lifetime of savings to fund opportunities to assist artists like Duffy, Sam McKnight and Anthony Turner. Now, her career ambitions were at risk of being undone by the contents of her kitbag.

“It was the first time I’d worked on Eugene’s team,” recalls Chapman, “and they were all using the same grips. They didn’t look like anything I’d ever seen before – very flat and thin and a metallic blue colour – but they were so strong and held the hair so securely in place, it was unbelievable. As I did more shows, I noticed that all the top session stylists were using them and yet they simply weren’t available to buy in the UK. To me, that was crazy. London is one of the world’s leading cities for fashion and beauty, yet we didn’t have access to the tools we deserved.”

Session Kit sells the high-performance tools you need in the session world

Chapman managed to track down the Japanese grips manufacturer and ordered 100 boxes, thinking that all her session friends would want to buy them from her. “It wasn’t about making money, I just wanted to do this favour for my friends and workmates,” she says. But things went crazy very quickly. Adam Reed bought some of Chapman’s pins and posted about them on his social media, tagging her, and suddenly hundreds of people were DMing Chapman wanting to buy the pins. “The demand was clearly there,” she recalls, “and I decided to make it my mission to ensure all professionals could have access.”

And so, the idea for Session Kit was born. Chapman had no prior experience of sourcing products, import taxes or retail language, but it was the long-standing relationships she’d built through her work in salons and session that spread the word and helped build the business very quickly. A major turning point came when she launched the Session Kit website. “That was huge!” she says. “Originally, I was only selling Japanese pins and grips, calculating weights manually, replying with shipping quotes and taking payments via bank transfer. Once the website launched, everything changed. Orders flew in, especially from international customers. It gave us space to expand our product range and streamline everything.”

Today, Session Kit comprises an edit of the most sought-after hair tools in the world – primarily pins, grips, brushes, tongs and combs but also ‘extras’ like hair elastic, face shields and Geisha hair padding (“You can use it to create any shape you need again and again. It’s pure genius!” says Chapman). Nothing makes it into the shop unless it’s been rigorously tested by Chapman and the Session Kit community – and it’s this authenticity that keeps the business so relevant and successful, not to mention earning plaudits (and actual orders) from the likes of Guido, Gary Gill and [Mr Original Japanese Grip User] Eugene Souleiman. “What’s humbling is that none of them asked for free products!” Chapman smiles. “Every purchase, testimonial and social post is done out of genuine care and belief in what Session Kit is trying to achieve.”

“If you want to succeed in session, which is a cut-throat world, having the right tools is fundamental. The difference between the pressure you’re under when you’re working backstage, compared to the salon, is insane” 
Anna Chapman

Chapman originally trained in a salon in Portsmouth before joining Trevor Sorbie, first in Brighton and then in London, where she worked alongside Angelo Seminara. It was at this point in her career that Chapman cemented her plans to become a session stylist, assisting legendary names (and establishing a close working rapport with Anthony Turner in particular), and learning the realities of session work: how it differs from salon life, how to speak the session industry’s language and – of course – understanding what she needed in her kitbag.

“If you want to succeed in session, which is a cut-throat world, having the right tools is fundamental,” says Chapman. “The difference between the pressure you’re under when you’re working backstage, compared to the salon, is insane. Yes, I’ve done 10 clients back-to-back, 45-minute haircuts, I know what it’s like. But when you’re backstage at Fashion Week and you’ve got 50 models who all need a slick pony and you’re crammed like sardines in this tiny space – that’s when you need a brush that gathers all the hair within seconds. You need your tools to perform at the highest level.”

In the early 2010s Chapman was part of a small and tight-knit group of stylists who were primarily based in salons but were also building impressive reputations in the session world – her peers included Richard Phillipart, Kim Rance and Jonathan de Francesco (whose Phantom Towels range is now stocked in Session Kit). Opportunities to straddle both worlds are more commonplace now, but Chapman is surprised it took this long.

Chapman is a successful session stylist in her own right

“What’s crazy is that people like Eugene and Guido really struggle to find good assistants because the work they do is so technical and there are so many session stylists who don’t have that background – what you’ve got to remember this is an international game and the standard of training in different countries can vary massively. Those guys loved to have cutters on their team because it came in very useful at Men’s Fashion Week, for example, and I was always valuable when there was some kind of crazy haircut that Guido would want to do because he actually was allowed to transform the models he worked with. It counted for a lot that I was based at Sorbie’s because they knew which salons did the best training and delivered the stylists with the highest skill sets.”

Chapman clearly remembers those days when she was a rookie session stylist. The high-pressure environments, how differently people talked about hair, having to learn the rules of working backstage. That’s why she’s created a course, Backstage Bootcamp, that genuinely prepares hairdressers for working in the session world.

“Session Kit was never just about selling products, it’s always been about supporting an empowering the professionals behind the craft”
Anna Chapman

The course is taught by Alfie Sackett, who was Eugene Souleiman’s first assistant for over three years and who is now represented by one of the industry’s top agencies. “That matters to me,” says Chapman, “because at Session Kit, everything we do is rooted in integrity and substance. Too often, education in this space is offered by professionals who haven’t fully walked the path themselves. Our educators are professionals who’ve not only excelled in their careers but have also experienced the full assistant-to-stylist journey – and are ready to help others do the same.”

For Chapman, education is just as important as the tools she sells. “Both are essential to the future of our industry,” she explains. “Session Kit was never just about selling products, it’s always been about supporting and empowering the professionals behind the craft. I built it with the same passion I bring to every job I do, and with the belief that our industry deserves access to the very best, whether it’s tools, education, or community. My journey hasn’t always been easy, but it’s taught me that with resilience, purpose, and a love for what you do, anything is possible. I’m so proud of what Session Kit has become, and even more excited for what’s still to come.”

How has the session industry changed compared to, say, 10 years ago?

It’s much more business-focused. In the Nineties designers like Alexander McQueen created pure art and drama on the runway. The focus was on showcasing the designer’s creativity, which, in turn, generated hype, press coverage and ultimately helped sell collections. Today, that artistic freedom has shifted for many brands. The emphasis is more commercial and collections are often tailored to what will sell, rather than purely expressing a creative vision. Creativity still exists, but it’s definitely less than it used to be.

Is Session Kit still unique in the market?

There are a few companies that have tried to replicate what Session Kit does and honestly, I take that as a compliment. But the truth is, I don’t focus on what others are doing. What sets Session Kit apart is our authenticity, community-driven approach and commitment to quality. We’re not just a store – we’re part of the industry we serve.

What qualities has it taken for you, as a working mum, to launch and run your own business?

Resilience and persistence. My daughter Rae was born in 2019, and COVID hit when she was just eight months old. Right when my career and Session Kit were gaining momentum, everything stopped. Not long after, my relationship broke down. I had to let Session Kit tick over while I focused on my session work. Many people told me I should consider returning to the salon so I could have structure routine to help with childcare. But I was determined not to lose everything I had worked so hard for and I’m proud to say I did it. I kept my career, kept the business, and bought a beautiful flat for me and Rae – and my new husband!

Man On A Mission

Man On A Mission

Man On A Mission

Dan Rathbone is an expert in shopping – he knows what sells and how to sell it. That’s why, as head of salon sales at ghd, he’s spearheading new initiatives to help get hairdressers passionate about retail too. And guess what, it’s working…

by CATHERINE | CONVERSATIONS

Dan Rathbone, head of salon sales, ghd

In February this year, ghd announced their move into Boots, the latest development in an omni-channel retail strategy that means the brand can now be found pretty much everywhere – online, in-store, in the hands of influencers, in inter-active displays and even on Amazon. It begs the question: where does the hair pro fit into it all?

“The retail landscape has changed a lot in the last few years,” says Rathbone. “Everything is available on the swipe of a smartphone and both manufacturers and hairdressers have got to embrace that. So many brands now are built purely on social media and e-commerce. If ghd is not in those spaces then we’re not going to grow to our full potential, the same as if a salon isn’t embracing the world of digital. As soon as you get up in the morning you’ve got brands communicating with you – there’s more information out there about what’s right for your hair. To me, the opportunity for hairdressers and salons actually feels bigger than ever now.”

At An Evening With, the scientists behind the brand’s latest innovation, Wave, talked guests through the new technology and how it had been developed to create perfect loose, beachy waves.

UK hairdressers have always had a strained relationship with retail. A survey by Phorest Salon Software back in 2023 revealed that despite 71 per cent of Brits wanting to buy products from salons, only 33 per cent did. For every hairdresser passionate about making sure their client doesn’t leave the premises without buying the best products for their hair, you’ll find another happy to send them to a website or elsewhere. And that’s okay, says Rathbone. He understands how hard retail can be, but when you get it right and find a way that works for you, it becomes what he describes as a ‘copy and paste’ job – something that can be easily incorporated into everyday routines.

“I try and relate things to my own shopping habits,” he says. “I’m always going to jump online and do my research first, especially if it’s a considered purchase like a pair of ghds, which can cost up to £399. But I’m also a sucker for immersive experiences – Apple do that really well. You can buy iPhones anywhere, but when you go to the Apple Store you get an expert who’s going to help you find the best model for you, show you how to use it, etc. Plus, if you’ve got an old handset, you can trade it in – something we’ve also started encouraging at ghd. Hair pros need to embrace these approaches, to give them that point of difference. And these are things that happen easily and really well when you’re in person.”

“Hair pros can take a lead from the cosmetics brand MAC. They offer vouchers where you get your make-up applied for you in-store, then the cost of the voucher is deducted from the products you buy. You could do that with ghds – style someone’s hair for a Saturday night, show them how to use the tool, then deduct the cost of the service from the purchase of the ghds. Online retailers would kill for that opportunity!” Dan Rathbone, head of salon sales, ghd

Under Rathbone’s direction, ghd have launched a series of initiatives to inspire and support hair pros on their retail journey. As well as hosting a series of An Evening With Ghd live events (held in lavish venues like Tattu restaurants up and down the country), there’s the new Pro Salon Network, which, along with some attractive benefits such as exclusive savings and trend-led education, provides members with access to a dedicated Business Development Manager. So, while many other brands are cutting back on people and doing everything online, ghd are increasing their face to face interactions with customers – and that doesn’t come cheap.

“We’ve got 35 people across the UK and Ireland solely dedicated to supporting salons,” says Rathbone. “And yes, it’s a big investment, but it’s really important to us. We do roadshows – some based on education, others on product launches – we’re sponsoring Creative HEAD’s It List awards for the 15th year in a row this year, we’ve got a mentoring programme to help hairdressers become really successful, and we’ll be launching our annual salon awards this year to celebrate the best ghd salons and hairdressers. So, there’s a lot going on, but it’s what sets us apart from our competitors.”

ghd Wave was the brand’s newest innovation showcased at An Evening With. It creates the perfect loose, beachy waves with zero frizz!

ghd is a remarkable global success story. Launched in 2001 and now co-owned by Coty and investment company KKR, it currently sells nearly six products every minute. Such is the love for the brand, some of those early adopters are still loyal customers, embracing all the new ghd innovations and retail strategies.

“One of the things I found really interesting at our Evening With Ghd,” says Rathbone, “was meeting customers who’ve been with the brand since those early years – hearing how they used to buy 50 ghd stylers from a rep out of a suitcase in the back of his car – and then seeing them share experiences and stories with the many new Pro Salon Network members. All these hairdressers have worked with ghd at different stages of their career and it really allowed us to have very direct, open and honest conversations on a lot of industry topics. And I think it re-energised everyone. They felt inspired by everything that ghd can do to support business, whether it be education, commercial, helping them with retail or inspiring their teams. It’s great that there are people who’ve been with us for 25 years who feel that way. We’re really proud of that, and it’s something we want to maintain.”

“We Came Through The Gates As A Pretty Disruptive Force”

“We Came Through The Gates As A Pretty Disruptive Force”

“We Came Through The Gates As A Pretty Disruptive Force”

box o’ bollox… bride of gluttony… normal persons daily shampoo… If that’s how you name your care and styling products, chances are you’re going to raise eyebrows. Australian brand evo is celebrating 20 years of challenging the industry status quo, having established itself as a globally iconic professional brand now found in over 35 countries and true to its mission of “saving ordinary humans from themselves”.

by CATHERINE | CONVERSATIONS

Back in 2005, amidst an industry awash with unrealistic beauty stands and overinflated promises, Garth Gauvin, son of Aussie hairdressing royalty, saw the need for change. He envisioned a brand that could deliver salon-quality performance without pretending to be the solution to life’s problems. evo was designed to get people thinking for themselves with honest, personality-filled products that respect people and the planet.

That rebellious little upstart has now grown into a full concept offering. Today, evo offers everything from care and style products to professional treatments, tools and colour, giving salons and their clients everything they need, from basin to beyond.

In 2012, evo set its sights on global expansion, with Brad Gauvin, Garth’s brother, moving to North America to build the brand and the team on the ground. Since 2020, Brad has been leading the brand as managing director, championing its founding pillars of integrity, simplicity, innovation and personality from Adelaide, South Australia, proving that a haircare brand can indeed help to hold the beauty industry to a higher standard and inspire change for the better.

Creative HEAD caught up with Brad in an early morning/late night Zoom call to chat all things evo, that 20-year milestone and the qualities that have seen the brand go such an impressive distance.

Brad Gauvin

Twenty years is a long time in hairdressing. What is it about evo that’s helped it go the distance– clever marketing or product performance?

I mean, it’s got to be both. Hairdressers need something that aligns with their values, so in that sense evo was ground-breaking in terms of bringing tongue-in-cheek humour at a time when so many products back then were being uber-serious – and still are. That cut-through was really powerful, both with hairdressers and consumers. But products don’t stick if they don’t perform, and evo’s success has been rooted in having high-performance products that are simple to understand and use. But brands, like humans, need to keep evolving and when I look back over the 20 years, you know, we started as kids, literally, but also the brand was a bit juvenile in being disruptive, then it sort of became an adolescent and that maturity has evolved with new products that have been innovative and added different dimensions. Bringing in education has also been key to evo’s growth and development, as that’s something our community can be part of and connect with. So, the 20 years have gone pretty quickly, but there’s been a lot of blood, sweat and tears in the process and a lot of belly laughter, as well.

Your mum and dad ran salons in the 60s and 70s before launching a distribution business that’s been going 50 years. Hairdressing is in your DNA. How important has ‘family’ been to evo’s success?

It’s been a huge strength. That’s the whole platform – it’s created the passion and the connection. Everything we do is about doing salon business and protecting salon business. As distributors, it was our mission to bring innovative, creative brands to Australian salons – Redken, Sebastian, TIGI, for example – and there were lots of learnings that came from that journey that we were able to build into the evo brand. evo was founded by my brother Garth after he’d become a bit disillusioned with what was happening in the industry, with all brands looking the same, using deceptive marketing, greenwashing and other mistruths. He had the idea of, How about doing something crazy and just being honest? evo was something that really spoke to hairdressers and consumers with honesty, made them think and allowed them to make informed decisions.

In the UK, the hairdressing landscape has changed dramatically, with a big swing to self-employment, salon owners renting out their chairs, rather than employing teams. Do movements like these impact on evo’s business strategy?

We’re adapting to the fact there are fewer salons, there are more independents, and it means everything from our offerings to our communications needs to be different. We’re lucky in that we’ve been used to that from our dealings in North America. Freelancers have different business needs and our challenge is to find the right way to speak to, service and support them. It’s something we’re really conscious of, because we want to do business with both customer types.

Three key moments in the evo journey, according to Brad Gauvin

• The Vanity campaign we did when we came out as the brand that everybody knows today – that’s a big one

Vanity Campaign

• Building in our community in the UK in 2008/2009 with an exclusive partnership with Aston&Fincher was a pivotal moment, as was launching into North America in 2010.

• Launching our hue-verse professional colour range in 2021. That’s enabled us really to partner with salons. Retail is one thing, but that backroom connection is the anchor and it’s been an important move for growing the business.

evo’s pro colour range has been a game-changer

Pro brands selling their products in Boots… What’s your take on that?

We were born pro-only and now we describe ourselves as salon-first. With digitisation, we’ve really been forced into this omni-channel play. What’s critical for us is every time someone walks into a salon, they can’t just go online and buy that evo product at a discounted price. Our way of dealing with it is through controlled distribution, including in places like Amazon, so that it removes all the unauthorised resellers, keeps the market clean and ensures pricing is consistent with salons.

And do your salon customers understand that approach? This is a big trust issue, after all.

We’re very open and transparent in our communications, so I think it’s understood. The last thing salons need now, when retail is already in decline, is to suck more out of their business, so our focus is on supporting and protecting that business. Other brands do things differently and some make interesting choices, yes.

Brexit, COVID, Trump tariffs. When it comes to your global distribution, there must have been some challenging moments?

With Brexit, we all just had to get on and deal with that regulatory and logistical stuff pretty quickly, but that’s business – things crop up and you just work through them and adapt. The uncertainty that the US is bringing about now is unfortunate, because it slows business down at all levels. Hopefully, common sense will prevail. No doubt there will be some work to do around pricing, but we’ve beentrying to hold off as much as possible because nobody wants price rises.

The destination evo campaign celebrates the brand’s 20th anniversary

You’ve got two Brits representing your brand, Tom Smith and Ky Wilson. Why did you choose them for evo and how are they helping to shape the brand?

Tom has been with us for a while, he’s the Colour Creative Director for the brand. As a master colour technician, he’s been involved since day one in the creation of our professional colour range, hue-verse, working internally with our team to deliver the innovation our customers want. He’s an excellent educator and communicator too, so he’s been instrumental in sharing his knowledge with our distributors and into salons across Europe and the US. Ky is a walking, talking evo person who was made for the brand, there was such a natural connection. He’s a showman and outstanding artist who has the power to share evo with existing and potential new customers. We want to work more with both of them, together with our outstanding creative team.

Finally, you’re celebrating your 20th anniversary with a new campaign, destination evo. What can we expect to see, hear, feel?

So, destination evo is a metaphorical place where people can come together, be themselves and where good hair feels like home – that’s one of our key taglines. People love the inclusivity in evo, and that’s been brought to life in a campaign where all stylists will see characters they identify with, and that will be rolled out across our marketing channels over the next 12 months, along with salon merchandising, so it lives and breathes and sells it too. In terms of the UK, look out for some events around October time, with workshops and education where people can come and see our creative work in action – it’s going to be a real celebration.  

“I Always Approach Styling With An Open Mind”

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