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“I can’t Imagine A World In Which I Would Have A Salon And Not Have An Apprentice”

“I can’t Imagine A World In Which I Would Have A Salon And Not Have An Apprentice”

“I can’t Imagine A World In Which I Would Have A Salon And Not Have An Apprentice”

Stripe Colour Studio on why more salons need to invest in the next generation  

by KELSEY | DOCUMENTS

“Do you care what happens to the future of hairdressing? If you do, then you need to take apprentices on. It can’t just be every man for himself” – Nancy Stripe, owner of Stripe Colour Studio, Handforth 

Victoria Lynch

Nancy Stripe

“I can’t imagine a world in which I would have a salon and not have an apprentice. The two go hand in hand, and as a salon owner, it frees you to do so much more for your own business.  

“My job is not an everyday nine-to-five job – I do lots of different things outside of the salon and I can’t work the way I do without them. Zoe is now a graduate stylist and Kitty will be completing her apprenticeship this year, so I’ve always got to be thinking, ‘Where would I be this time next year if either of them left? What would happen?’ With them on the team, I can do more teaching and go to places I need to go. Apprentices are the most important people in the salon.  

“I also like to bring them along to events and education as much as possible. I want to get them involved in things they find exciting because hairdressing is not an average job and there are so many avenues you can go down. When I went to London earlier this month, Kitty came with me and was my right hand while I was teaching. I want to show them that to curate your dream job with your dream clientele, this is where it starts. 

“Salons need to show their apprentices what’s next. If you have some fun projects happening or things that aren’t necessarily everyday appointments, bring apprentices into the fold and allow them to be part of it. That, in turn, gives them a better view of what their career can be.  

“It baffles me that everybody’s just thinking for themselves now. Do you care what happens to the future of hairdressing? If you do, then you need to take apprentices on. It can’t just be every man for himself.” 

Tripe Clapham

Zoe and Kitty working hard at Stripe Colour Studio

“To do a hairdressing apprenticeship, you’ve got to really want to do it. You can’t be 50/50 about it” – Zoe Mcgruer, Graduate Stylist, Stripe Colour Studio, Handforth  

Victoria Lynch

Zoe Mcgruer

“My mum is a hairdresser, so it’s something I’ve always considered doing for my career. I enjoyed doing all my friends’ hair, but I qualified as a nail technician first before deciding on this industry. It made me realise that I wanted to give hairdressing a go, so I came and worked for Nancy. 

“In this area, there’s no other salon like us – no other space specialises in colour and grey blending, so I knew it was the right choice to work at Stripe. Everyone is so supportive in the team, and watching how everyone does things differently has made the experience so enjoyable.  

“I’m newly qualified, and I’m still learning from Nancy as I go. If you’re not sure about something, just say how you feel. Be honest and say this isn’t working for me. If everyone’s honest with each other, you can move forward. There are no bad feelings. No one takes it personally.  

“Finding a really good boss – someone who actually cares about you – is so important. Nancy doesn’t just care about how we are at work, but also outside of work; she always checks up on us. She looks out for us and I think you need that. It’s good to have guidance from someone experienced to support you with going in the right direction.

“To do a hairdressing apprenticeship, you’ve got to really want to do it. You can’t be 50/50 about it it’s a job that you’ve got to give 110 per cent in no matter what, because it is not an easy job to be doing. My advice is to find somewhere that suits you – don’t just stick it out if it’s not working.” 

Nancy with Zoe and Kitty

“It’s been one of the most positive journeys of my life, and I can’t take anything bad away from it” – Kitty Dyson, Apprentice, Stripe Colour Studio, Handforth 

Kitty Dyson

“I’m really happy with how I’m progressing through my apprenticeship. I can’t believe how fast the two years have gone and how fast I’ve learned everything. It’s been one of the most positive journeys of my life, and I couldn’t take anything bad away from it. 

“My grandma was a hairdresser, so I grew up around it. I used to go to work with her if my parents couldn’t look after me, so I’d go and help her by passing the perm papers. I was always around it and hairdressing has always interested me. It’s the atmosphere of the salon that I love the most – we’re all in it together. It doesn’t matter what has happened before I arrive, I know we’re still going to have a nice day together. 

“I’m with Nancy pretty much all day, so I’m by her side learning all the time. It could be watching a certain placement of the foils or a technique or product being used. I learn the why behind it and ask the questions that needed to be asked. I try to absorb as much knowledge as I can.  

“While the first year was a slower pace, the second year has ramped up. Now, I will help Nancy with root shadows or blow-dries when she is back-to-back with clients. You can’t expect to be doing a set of highlights after a month of training; you need to be realistic with your expectations, but bit by bit, the pieces will all come together.”  

“People love beauty. That makes me happy, to know that so many people are being impacted” – Ali Pirzadeh on the power of hair

“People love beauty. That makes me happy, to know that so many people are being impacted” – Ali Pirzadeh on the power of hair

“People Love Beauty. That Makes Me Happy, To Know That So Many People Are Being Impacted” – Ali Pirzadeh On The Power Of Hair

2024 Most Wanted Session Stylist Ali Pirzadeh talks about his heritage, creating compelling narratives through hair and why routine keeps him grounded

by EMMA | DOCUMENTS

Photography by Harry Carr Revue

Ali Pirzadeh

Ali Pirzadeh is a session scene luminary. A styler, twister, shaper and sculptor, his hair work amplifies fashion shows and campaigns, creating a dynamic interplay between the clothes’ texture and the hair’s fabric.

And this talent has been woven into an impressive multi-award-winning career spanning nearly three decades, during which time he has crafted a captivating portfolio. Most recently, he took home the Session Stylist trophy at Creative HEAD’s Most Wanted awards. And for good reason. He was also celebrated in The BOF (Business of Fashion) 500 in 2022, a collection of people shaping the global fashion industry, curated by the brand editors and based on nominations and global on-the- ground intel.

This global appeal – and his multicultural approach to hair – can be traced back to his roots. Born in Tehran, his family moved to Sweden when he was four years old, finding a safe space for him and his sister to grow up (more on that later). His home life clearly shaped his cross-cultural identity, reflected in the diversity of his hair creations and campaigns. Forty years later, he’s recognised for embracing all textures at all times, which has positioned him firmly at the epicentre of the hair and fashion industries, exciting and delighting as he goes.

Ali Pirzadeh

Ali Pirzadeh is a session scene luminary. A styler, twister, shaper and sculptor, his hair work amplifies fashion shows and campaigns, creating a dynamic interplay between the clothes’ texture and the hair’s fabric.

And this talent has been woven into an impressive multi-award-winning career spanning nearly three decades, during which time he has crafted a captivating portfolio. Most recently, he took home the Session Stylist trophy at Creative HEAD’s Most Wanted awards. And for good reason. He was also celebrated in The BOF (Business of Fashion) 500 in 2022, a collection of people shaping the global fashion industry, curated by the brand editors and based on nominations and global on-the- ground intel.

 

British Vogue, Photography by Felicity Ingram

Where The Heart Is

Down-to-earth, hes the creative conduit behind the key hair looks of the season, a fashion facilitator. The stealth master of hair ceremony who knows his worth but is humble about it. And while session arguably takes a back seat to fashion (designers take a bow, post-show, not the hair tailors), hes unfazed. His focus is fully entrenched in concept and creation. The secret, perhaps, is that Ali loves his life. All of it. Hes clear on boundaries (my work studio is in our garden, so I dont confuse work and home) and has a deep desire to create, mixing with like-minded friends who want to develop concepts just for usas much as he wants to create heart-fluttering campaigns for the bigwigs and fashion cognoscenti – Alexander McQueen, Nina Ricci and Louis Vuitton, to name just a few.

His jam-packed schedule is not for the faint-hearted. When we speak, hes just home from Paris and followed by Stockholm to shoot a big fashion campaign. Now hes gearing up for a new project back in Paris before a shoot with the iconic photographer, Tim Walker. Its hectic. Im always all over the place. Life is exciting but I need balance in-between. Im always happy to be home,” he admits. 

“I believe you get led in a direction. I loved looking at magazines but didn’t know session styling was a thing. It still feels surreal”

Home is the space he shares with his partner of 13 years in Dalston. A fine art photographer, Ali credits him with possessing a calm manner that allows him to flourish creatively, without overwhelm. Alongside his partners support, Ali reveals small details that allow him to think bigger and create better. Structure, discipline, rituals and routine all ensure he can stick to his schedule of sometimes 19-hour days and rollercoaster rosters of shoots and shows. I love routine, having my oat latte in the morning, working out, those things are important to me,” he confides. While London is now his home, he says moving from Iran to Sweden was very Sliding Doors.’ “That single decision altered so much in our lives. We were the first wave of immigrants from Iran, and Sweden was very welcoming. It was an idyllic place to grow up.”

However, standing out from the crowd meant he was teased about his heritage. A year-long stint in Italy (I lived in Rome for a while and had a taste of blending in a little), was nothing compared to the inclusivity he feels in London. Home can mean so many different things, but London is my happy place. Its where I feel I belong.”

Rogue Fashion Book, Photography by Felicity Ingram

His CV reads like a Whos Who of the fashion world, something he’s grateful for, given the journey to feeling this sense of belonging. My dad wanted me to study economics, so I played along. It wasnt right for me,” he recalls. His sisters job as a hairdresser shone a spotlight on the creative career he craved. Growing up, I always played with dolls. I cut their hair and put bows on them. As soon as I started hairdressing, I was super happy.”

At 15 he became an apprentice in a Stockholm salon looking after socialites and well-heeled clients. Working five-to-six days a week meant that when he started hair school, he was already on a roll: I knew how to root colour, to blow-dry. I studied hair for three years working every day after school. I felt very much at home. Coming from a place where I had felt like a bad student into one of being nurtured was wonderful.” 

After renting a chair (I had my little clique of clients two years in by that time), he opened a salon in Stockholm with his sister and a friend. Our make-up artist friend brought models into the salon, and I did their hair. Massive baroque styles. There was no other intent back then apart from I wanted to do it.” When his friend showed her agent his work, Ali began assisting. Within six months, he was signed by her agency. I believe you get led in a direction. I loved looking at magazines but didnt know session styling was a thing. It still feels surreal. I feel very lucky.” Now session is Alis way of sculpting and connecting while amplifying his ideas. Hair is a material you can shape. It tells you where it wants to go or what it wants to do. I love what I do. The finished result in a magazine can awaken emotions in people as it did for me when I was younger.” 

Vogue Scandinavia, Photography by Marc Hibbert

In It To Win It

Cut to 2012, and Ali won ELLE Swedens Best Hairstylist of the Year, scooping the title again in 2016. Most recently, he was named 2024 Most Wanted Session Stylist. Winning meant everything to me. I couldnt believe it. Everyone nominated is so talented,” he says. Working in Hong Kong, he found waking up to the news he had won rather surreal: I was at breakfast in complete shock. It means people appreciate the voice I put out there. That is a truly wonderful thing.”

While clearly at the top of his game, his hair story is one of hard graft and tenacity. I always wanted something more, so I made sure I did show season. I made sure I assisted smaller shows. I networked, worked on fashion weeks and got to know agents.” He also recognises those who helped him on his journey, including Swedish photographer Camilla Akrans. I started working with her on campaigns, and she began putting my name out in those arenas. She played a big part in my access across the pond.” 

He also cites the late Alexander McQueen as a huge inspiration in fashion design: He was raw, creative, authentic. He made an impact. He had no boundaries. His work still blows my mind.” Tim Walker is also a firm favourite, with their collaborative work appearing on the covers of Vogue Mexico (December 2021) and British Vogue (July 2023), among countless others (the latter capturing a shimmering army of LGBTQ+ pioneers sharing stories of style and self-discovery). His images have so much emotion and expression,” he says. Calling their first collaboration a pivotal moment, Ali loves the fluidity of their work. Hes so inspiring, so open to my ideas. He will ask: ‘How do YOU see this narrative come to life?I still cant believe Im lucky enough to work with him.”

Perfect Magazine, Photography by Rafael Pavarotti

Go With The Flow

His 2025 diary is already packed, with the routines and pillars, such as Fashion Week, essential elements to keeping him balanced. People are shocked at my schedule, they dont believe I can start at 5.30 am and finish at 11 pm. Hair work will exhaust you, so its important to keep a routine. You must keep taking care of yourself.” While theres no typical day, its guaranteed to be organised. The one constant is Im up between 5am and 6am. Theres a lot of prep work to what we do. A huge amount of unpacking and repacking. I always try to be two steps ahead.”

When it comes to Fashion Week, how does he get through the gruelling schedules? Teamwork. Im doing the work, but I couldnt succeed without such a strong network. You need that support. Everything has a process and we give a lot emotionally and mentally, so anything that makes it flow a little easier is a huge help.” Currently on the books at Streeters, his agent, Gary, is part of this support network. It feels like someone constantly has your back. Its a meaningful friendship.” 

While teamwork is a clear marker of what he loves about the session world Its great to feel part of something bigger than you” – is there anything about the industry he wishes he could change? Im sad that print media has taken a back seat to the culture of social media,” he says. As a creator, it saddens me. I take a lot of pride in concepts and ideas. Im excited when a project comes out, but social media means its gone so fast. Its a machine. We need to stop scrolling and take a minute.” However, he recognises that art can still ignite and excite, even on social. People love beauty. That makes me happy, to know that so many people are being impacted and we are making an impression.”

Replica Man Magazine, Photography by Iñigo Awewave

At 44 years old and with the session world at his fashionable feet, what advice would he give his younger self? I was very bullied growing up, and after what I went through, I would say: You will be more than okay. Trust in yourself and trust in your voice. You are valid.” With his roots firmly entrenched in London, he says hes happy to live and work in environments where he feels accepted: We are in such a good place with inclusivity. As a gay man, I feel very lucky to be in an industry thats open and welcoming. I feel extremely safe in this world.”

It seems as though he’s where hes meant to be. He knows who he is and what he can bring to the campaign table. The underlying truth is that he cares. He understands what hes capable of, and hes not afraid to create it. He can always see his vision in a crowded space, creating and illuminating as he goes. Bravo.

From Passion to Possibilities

From Passion to Possibilities

From Passion to Possibilities

How Wella’s Passionistas programme inspires, educates and elevates freelancer, Heather Robertson

by CAITLYN | EXPLORE

For Heather, hairdressing has always been more than a job – it’s her greatest passion. With over 20 years working in the industry and eight as a freelancer, Heather has built a career around bridal styling, luxury home salon services and education. But going solo wasn’t just about independence; it was about embracing opportunities that aligned with her love for learning, creating, and inspiring others. 

“I love being my own boss,” she reflects. “I laugh at myself because I say I have the freedom to come and go as I please, but when you’re self-employed, you tend to work way more than you ever would if you were employed. Still, the passion is there because you’re working for your own brand.” 

This passion for hairdressing is what keeps Heather motivated. “I’ve always believed in making people feel like the best version of themselves,” she shares. “Whether it’s a bride on her wedding day or a client in my salon, that’s what drives me.” 

Passion Turned Passionista  

Her journey has been enriched by the Wella Passionistas programme, which she joined during lockdown and credits as a source of inspiration and growth. “I think it just became really obvious how much I love Wella as a company and how much I love sharing knowledge with other hairdressers,” Heather explains.  

Her journey into the Passionistas began during lockdown when she went live three times a week, teaching techniques and engaging with fellow stylists. Through these sessions, her expertise and enthusiasm caught Wella’s attention. “I think they just saw how passionate I am about hairdressing and about continuously learning and sharing.” 

“It’s great to be amongst like-minded people,” Heather says. “And naturally, the kind of guidance that Wella gives us as Passionistas – like being the first people to know about new products and innovations – is invaluable. We consistently get updates on what’s trending and how best to showcase our work, which keeps us inspired.” 

“Having the Passionistas group is like a side turn on the road,” she explains. “You might plan to do something with your client, then a box arrives filled with new and exciting products, techniques and ideas. It keeps you inspired.” 

For example, Wella’s new ‘Glass Hair’ technique has been a game-changer for Heather’s bridal clients. “It’s an additional service on top of a colour appointment, and it’s perfect for making their hair look flawless in the lead-up to their wedding. The Wella Professionals products allow me to refine my skills while introducing something new to my clients.” 

Beyond the products, content days and hands-on education have been another major highlight of the initiative. “It’s incredible to be invited to these shoots where we create beautiful images, work with models and really showcase our artistry. For freelancers who don’t have the backing of a big salon, that kind of exposure is amazing.” 

Social Media and Personal Brand 

Social media didn’t just help Heather land a spot in the Passionistas programme, it remains a core part of how she educates and inspires others. 

“The key is to provide value,” she says. “It’s not enough to just post what you’re doing in the salon. If you can share something that helps other stylists – whether it’s a technique, a product review or an insight – that’s what really resonates.” 

Heather uses platforms like Instagram to showcase her work, share tips and build her brand. It’s also where she finds inspiration, saving posts and videos from other educators and hairdressers. “I have a folder of everything that sparks ideas. It’s a mix of things Wella sends through and trends I see online. It helps me stay ahead of the game.” 

Freelancing offers freedom, but Heather emphasises the importance of structure and self-care. “One of the best pieces of advice I ever heard is to take time out to work on your business, not just in it,” she says. “As a freelancer, you’re both the boss and the employee. It’s easy to say yes to everything, but you need to take care of yourself too.” 

 

For Heather, being part of the Wella Passionistas has been a career-defining experience. “It’s not just about being the first to try new products, it’s about being part of something bigger,” she says. “You’re constantly learning, you’re supported by Wella, and you’re part of a community that pushes you to grow.” 

Looking ahead, Heather has no plans of slowing down. She’s continuing to build her education platform, expand her bridal styling expertise and explore new trends through the Wella Passionistas programme. “You could do this job for a million years and still never know everything,” she says. “There’s always something new to learn – and that’s what makes it so exciting.” 

“Quite Frankly, The Manufacturers Have Abandoned This Industry” – Why Boots Was A Step Too Far For Keune Boss Darren Potter

“Quite Frankly, The Manufacturers Have Abandoned This Industry” – Why Boots Was A Step Too Far For Keune Boss Darren Potter

“Quite Frankly, The Manufacturers Have Abandoned This Industry” – Why Boots Was A Step Too Far For Keune Boss Darren Potter

Should pro hair brands cut out the hair pro and sell direct to the consumer? Darren Potter doesn’t think so. Since becoming UK general manager of the Dutch family-owned Keune business three years ago, he’s taken a stance, refusing to put their products into Boots or online beauty shops and declaring that “loyalty to the hair pro is at the heart of everything we do.” And guess what: people are listening…

by CATHERINE | DOCUMENTS

It would be fair to say the word ‘professional’ matters a lot to Darren Potter. He has spent more than 30 years helping professional hair brands understand how to serve and support professional hairdressers and in 2017 resigned from the role of UK general manager at Aveda when parent company Estée Lauder declared they wanted to take it omni-channel. (“I turned round and said, ‘Well, I’m not going to be the leader that does that’.”)  Potter set up his own agency, Refocus, and spent four years working solo, consulting with distributors and helping brands get back on track after the pandemic. By 2021 one of those brands was Keune.

Darren Potter

“I knew of Keune but in my mindset at the time it was a low-end market brand run by wholesalers or distributors,” recalls Potter. “But I had a call with Mr Keune and his son Eelco (who was appointed President on January 1 this year, joining his father George on the Supervisory Board) and I got on really well with them, went over to the Netherlands to look at their operation and did a presentation on why I thought they should be in the UK market. I got as far as slide five when they said, ‘We want you to start’.”

Reassured this was a brand committed to the hair pro for the longterm, Potter threw himself into the role. For the next three years, he worked tirelessly, securing warehouses and offices, creating a flagship salon and training academy, The House of Keune, in central London, signing Andrew Barton and Luke Benson as brand ambassadors and garnering increasing column inches from a fascinated trade press.

It paid off. By the start of 2025, the Keune empire stood at 485 salons in the UK, including Potter’s most prestigious signing of 2024, the six-strong Trevor Sorbie group.

“These manufacturers have left professional hairdressers high and dry by blatantly going direct to the consumer.”

There’s a lot about Keune that ticks modern hairdressing boxes: there’s a collaborative, innovative feel to the brand, the products are high quality and sustainability is a priority. But the key difference that not only sets it apart from its competitors but makes it especially attractive to hairdressers who’ve felt increasingly disillusioned in recent years, is that it’s a family business and it treats its customers like family too. At a time when other brands are cutting back on people and doing everything online, Potter is growing his team and investing in networking events that bring his customers together IRL. “Whatever we do, whatever we put into the market, we ask ourselves if this is benefiting the hairdresser; it’s got to meet that test,” says Potter. “And it’s working. It’s resonating.”

The house that Potter built: the impressive House of Keune in central London acts as a brand focal point

Keune’s commitment to the hair professional is powerful and persuasive, but there is no doubt it was strengthened significantly when in 2023 a handful of major industry bands opted to make their professional products available in high street retailer Boots. Potter was on holiday in France when the news hit but immediately put out an announcement that Keune was 100 per cent loyal to the professional hairdresser, now and forever.

“We just blasted social media with that message, and we got so much positive feedback because it was literally the day after the Boots story broke and people were really angry. And I don’t blame them – all pretence that these brands are committed to the professional was blown out of the water. It’s meant that I’m now speaking to influential people across our industry that I would never have been able to talk to before, because they see that what we’re doing and what we’re offering has integrity and is supporting them to grow their business.”

How to succeed at retail, according to Darren Potter

Don’t just put products on your shelves and hope they sell. Plan seriously.

Decide what percentage of your turnover you want retail to be and reverse engineer back from there. The two key benchmarks I talk to salons about are these: for every 10 clients that come into your salon, I want five of them converting to colour and I want five buying professional haircare. Key to both those things is getting the consultation right because clients who spend on colour will always spend money on products that will protect that colour. Plus, you’ll get more rebookings!

Although his competitors’ actions have benefitted him, Potter is bitter about the impact on the wider industry. It really annoys me,” he says. “These manufacturers have left professional hairdressers high and dry by blatantly going direct to the consumer. They don’t care if that means they lose some business along the way they’ll have built that into their calculations – but by prioritising their shareholders over their supposed brand values, they are causing major problems for our industry at a time when a cost of living crisis and Government legislation are already putting extra pressure onto the P&L of salon business. It’s unforgivable.

Committed to the pro: Keune have promised their products will never be found in Boots or online beauty shops

Realistic that Keune’s professional-first stance puts it at a commercial disadvantage versus many of its rivals, Potter is nevertheless committed to growing retail sales in the professional channel. He’s created an ambassador programme that rewards salon loyalty and spend (there are separate programmes for session stylists and freelancers); the Keune online shop is set up so that salons always earn their margins, even if the consumer is buying direct; and Potter has even set up the business-focused Keune University that his team are obliged to attend three times a year so they can pass on the latest insight and knowledge to Keune customers.

“What we’ve got to get better at in our industry is helping our customers to understand how retail can happen because hairdressers just switch off to it, thinking they can’t compete with online,” he says. “One of the most important things in a retail environment is getting the client in the seat because 97 per cent of the time that results in a purchase. Salons get consumers in the seat immediately but what they’re not good at is doing a really bespoke consultation with a prescriptive recommendation. We need to go back to the basics, which are that the hairdresser is the professional, with the right and the authority to tell the client what they must use and how to use it.”

There’s no doubt Potter is fired up about the future, and given how industry disillusionment has led to many salons looking around for new partner brands, 2025 could be a huge year for Keune. “I was with a very influential hairdresser the other day and he was saying to me, ‘There’s no other brands doing what you’re doing, but I think you need to dial up how you communicate that into the industry, and don’t be afraid of upsetting the competition because they’ve already stuck their two fingers up to us.’ And I totally get that. I do want people to look at Keune and think, ‘That’s the brand I want to work with.’  But the most important thing to me is that if you’re unhappy with what your brand is doing, don’t just moan and groan – walk away. There are so many companies that will support you and help you grow, You’ve just got to pick the right one.”

Discover more about what retail looks like now in the February issue of Creative HEAD.

Riding The Wave: The Perm Is Back – But Not As We Knew It

Riding The Wave: The Perm Is Back – But Not As We Knew It

Riding The Wave: The Perm Is Back – But Not As We Knew It

Things have come a long way since Dirty Dancing’s Jon and Baby mega-curly numbers

by CATHERNE | DOCUMENTS

At Rhona McCallum Hair in Alloa, Clackmannanshire, curls are definitely on the up. “I’ve noticed growing demand for styling tips for curly hair and beachy waves are beginning to look a little more defined and curled,” says Rhona. “We’ve even started to get clients requesting perms these days.”

Yep, Rhona dropped the P-bomb.

Perms – the mainstay of salon business in the 1980’s – used to be synonymous with stiff, bouffant, larger-than-life ringlets that smelled of damage and demanded moisturising. Three decades later they’re creeping back into salon conversations – but not as we knew them. Condition now comes before style, with modern perm formulations full of caring and strengthening technologies that allow the shape to hold while protecting the integrity of hair.

And this time around, they’re not just for women. Salons are reporting that more men are getting their hair permed than ever before, attracted by the idea of a low-maintenance, wavy look inspired by curly haired style icons such as Gladiator 2 star Paul Mescal, Jeremy Allen White (The Bear) and Hollywood heartthrob Timothee Chalamet, who enjoyed what a body language expert called “his own private date night” with girlfriend Kylie Jenner at the recent Golden Globe awards.

The modern male perm comes with a playful vibe at Woolf, London

“In the last 12 to 18 months we’ve had a real shift with men coming in asking for perms, sometimes as many as three or four a week,” says Joe Mills, owner of Woolf in Kings Cross. It’s meant that Mills has had to dig out his decades-old bag of grey and blue plastic rods (though he now mixes them with Molton Brown-style bendy rods to give a softer result) and train his team in the art of perming including how to use the plastic strips so you don’t get the rubber band marks in the hair (that’s skill!). For the artfully curly results, Woolf charges anything from £75 to £150, depending on length of hair and how many rods are required, “Which is pretty much all profit, once you take your labour charges out,” says Mills, “and once a client gets into having their hair permed they come back to get the roots re-done, so you could be doing a perm every two or three months. From a business perspective, perms are quite a big earner.”

Riding the wave at Woolf. For the full video click here.

Once considered a relic of the past, perms for guys have made an incredible (and somewhat unexpected) comeback, driven by cultural influences from the world of K-pop and social media. Bro perms may be relatively new in the West, but men in Japan and South Korea have been getting their hair permed for decades, and at least since 2020, Korean stars like Jungkook from BTS and Chen from EXO have been setting hearts aflame with their soft curls.

The soft, wavy perm is a staple of the K-pop look, blending a playful vibe with a touch of sophistication. Its top curls are tender and loose; the hairstyle is versatile and can be combed over or worn with a fringe; and the sides and back of the head are faded short with clippers and scissors. For a little more money, a client can choose what’s known as a down perm, which relaxes and flattens stubborn strands that stick out, creating a smoother appearance.

But the real brisk trade in male perms is driven by Gen-Z boys and TikTok. At first it was atrendy look for influencers with straight hair, like US social media sensation Jacob Sartorius and the adored and eagerly watched Nic Kaufmann, who back in 2020 posted an “I might have got a perm” video. Then the pandemic happened, salons and barbershops shut down, and a lot of the e-boys ended up on TikTok just as their already-long-on-top hair was growing out. And as straight and wavy hair grows, its weight can drag a voluminous look down. So, what’s a TikToker to do? Get a perm.

“God help you if you don’t neutralise properly. Back in the day, when I was an assistant, if I didn’t neutralise a perm, I got it in the neck!” – Joe Mills, Woolf London

And what a look: a pile of fluffed curls, with stacked layers for height and a deep fade on the sides and in the back. “I don’t even know if this haircut has a name,” says Mills, “and I don’t think anyone’s actually claiming you need to go and get a perm but I think kids with straight hair are saying, ‘I want curly hair’ and either their peers or their mum is turning round and going, ‘Well, you need to have a perm.’ And they’re not going to a barbershop for that look, they’re going to Toni&Guy. It’s a shift that reminds me so much of how I used to go to the barbers with my dad when I was growing up and then, when I was about 12 or 13 and I wanted highlights and a wedge, I went to my mum’s unisex salon. I’m not saying that barbers can’t perm, but when it comes to technical services people tend to look for those in mainstream salons.”

One thing’s for sure, these Gen-Z boys are definitely into their hair.

“The current crop of teens – and I’m talking from 14 to early 20s – they really know what they want. Their identity is really locked in,” says Mills. “My son and his mates, they’ve all got their own hair products, they’ve got their own hairdryers, they know what they’re doing. There was a period of time when a lot of the barbering haircuts were pretty low-maintenance from a regime point of view, whereas for this look, you definitely need to put the work in.”

So, the perm has evolved, just like its clientele. But the killer question: what about the smell?“Oh god, it’s still just as bad as ever,” says Mills. “There are perms out there where they’ve managed to get rid of the smell, but we noticed that often those perms drop out quickly. So,we use the old-style formulations because perming is quite a labour-intensive process and you don’t want to take a chance on using a product that’s not going to work and cost you twice the amount of time, right? And as any hairdresser of a certain age will remember, knowing when a perm is ready – when you’ve got exactly the right amount of curl – that’s all done by eye. And god help you if you don’t neutralise properly. Back in the day, when I was an assistant, if I didn’t neutralise a perm, I got it in the neck!”

The Return of the Perm

They renamed the perm the form service, now they’ve reformulated the chemicals to make it safer and friendlier. Meet the modern perm formulations:

Dulcia from L’Oréal Professionnel Paris has a cult following in perming circles, thanks to its consistent results. Choose Dulcia Advanced for firm, bouncy curls, Dulcia Advanced Tonique for modern, ultra-conditioned waves, and Dulcia 0 for natural and resistant hair, complete with single use neutraliser. The rest of the family is back by popular demand, with 1 for “Natural” hair, 1 Tonique for “Natural” hair and 2 Tonique for “Sensitized” hair. All available in 75ml single use bottles, with one-litre Neutraliser sold separately at the L’Oréal Partner Shop.

Wella Professionals have two different perming kits, each containing a perming lotion, neutraliser and per-perm treatment. Creatine+ Curl for bouncy curls, and Creatine+ for natural waves both come in variants for resistant and sensitised hair, with high-conditioning agents to leave hair with extra elasticity, bounce and shine and a new redberry rose fragrance that helps to create a more pleasant perming experience for clients!

Available from the Wella Professionals Store.

As you would expect from a brand focused on sustainability and respect natural beauty, the professional curling and waving systems from Davines deliver beautiful, natural movement while respecting the health of the hair. Use the ammonia-free Balance Curling system to achieve uniform, shiny, soft results from roots to ends, while the Bouclé Waving system ensures soft and natural curls that retain elasticity and volume over time. Formulas are enriched with cysteamine, a natural active ingredient that has a structure similar to that of hair and creates a natural waving.

“We Believed Pricing Should Reflect The Time, Products, And Expertise Involved, Rather Than Gender”

“We Believed Pricing Should Reflect The Time, Products, And Expertise Involved, Rather Than Gender”

“We Believed Pricing Should Reflect The Time, Products, And Expertise Involved, Rather Than Gender”

Co-founders Jenna Husbands and Alicia Hammersley‑Fenton have converted a disused railway arch in Worcester into a sustainable hair salon with inclusivity at the forefront 

by MADDI | CREATIVE PROJECTS

Mosu hair salon exterior

Nestled in a transformed railway arch in Worcester, Mosu’s sustainable ethos is palpable from the minute you set foot in the door. Neutral tones, Oway products lining the walls, minimalist furnishings and palm fronds framing the space all help to create a sense of calm and serenity. Co-founded by Jenna Husbands and Alicia Hammersley‑Fenton, Mosu is a progressive, inclusive, and sustainable hairdressing space. With its genderful ethos and attention to every detail, Mosu has quickly become a community favourite. 

What inspired you to create Mosu? 

“Our goal was to ensure that every client received the same high level of care and consideration. With Jenna’s expertise in the hair industry – specialising in short hair and male grooming – and Alicia’s background in client experience and brand development, we initially saw a gap in the market for men. Our original idea was to create a premium barbershop, offering an elevated experience with services like cutthroat shaves and facials. 

“However, we realised we were unintentionally limiting our vision. That’s when we decided to create a completely gender-neutral space, embracing a more progressive and inclusive approach. Adopting gender-neutral pricing was a key part of this vision. While we were initially nervous about how it would be received – especially in a small city like Worcester – we believed pricing should reflect the time, products, and expertise involved, rather than gender. The response has been overwhelmingly positive.” 

What drew you to the railway arch as a location?  

“This part of Worcester is an up-and-coming area that required vision, and we saw incredible potential in transforming the space into something special. It took us two years to secure the lease, as the structure came with its own complexities. Along the way, we watched other businesses open in spaces we had considered, but we always felt that the arch was worth the wait. As our flagship hair space, it makes a bold statement and reflects the uniqueness of our brand.” 

Mosu hair salon transformation

What were some of the biggest challenges you faced during the renovation?  

“The biggest challenge we faced was during the build itself. Converting a disused railway arch brought unique complexities and required a lot of plan refinement to secure the lease. When construction finally began, progress was unexpectedly halted, and we had to bring in additional trades to address and rectify significant work. This delayed our initial launch by a year. 

“Fortunately, our flexible jobs allowed us to contribute as much as possible to the process ourselves, though it still placed a significant strain on us. Looking back, the challenges we overcame made our opening day even more meaningful.” 

How did you incorporate sustainability into both the renovation and daily salon life?  

“Every decision we made – during both the renovation and in daily operations – focused on creating a premium, eco-conscious space. 

“We opted for a 100 per cent renewable energy supplier and invested in energy-efficient appliances, including infrared heating, a heat pump tumble dryer, and an inline water filter. During the build, we prioritised sustainable materials like Kabric, responsibly sourced wood, and durable, high-quality fixtures designed to last.” 

“We’ve vetted every supplier to ensure we’re making the most sustainable choices, from cleaning products to toilet paper. We share our efforts on a dedicated page on our website, so clients can see how seriously we take this commitment.” 

Describe the atmosphere you’ve created at Mosu…  

“From the beginning, we wanted to create a space that feels warm, inviting, and reflective of our ethos. We’ve used earthy, neutral tones and natural materials to add a sense of calm, balanced with clean lines to keep things fresh and modern. We offer quiet appointments for those who prefer a peaceful experience, along with a curated selection of design, travel, and food books for a moment of mindfulness. 

“Our playlist, a blend of electronic and mellow beats, completes the atmosphere, making Mosu a space where clients can truly relax and feel at ease. We’re always so pleased to hear clients’ first impressions when they step into the arch. The structure’s high, curved ceilings create a unique space with an airy yet comforting ambience.” 

What are some of your favourite areas or features?  

“While we love the open-plan workspace and its welcoming vibe, one feature that’s especially meaningful to us is the bathroom! Creating an accessible WC within the unique constraints of the arch was challenging, but inclusivity was a priority from the outset. Standard commercial washroom packages were shockingly utilitarian and expensive, so we spent countless hours sourcing equipment that balanced functionality with style. We used earthy tones, eco-friendly plaster from DetaleCPH, Carrara marble tiles and matte black fixtures to create a cohesive, modern look. 

“The positive feedback we’ve received about the bathroom means so much to us. It’s a small but important example of how we’ve approached every detail with care.” 

Mosu hair salon bathroom