TECHNIQUES

EXAUCÉ IMBO: MY TAKE ON... AN AFRO MID TAPER FADE

A precision trim given a textural twist, Exauce Imbo – owner of EXSTUDIO barbers – puts his spin on a modern men’s classic.

Exaucé Imbo

“There are a number of variations when it comes to overall style and design features you can add to a mid taper fade to tailor it to your client’s wants and needs. First, on Afro textured men’s hair, shape plays a big role. You can keep the Afro smooth, with a crisp and defined round shape, which gives a clean, classic look that is perhaps more suitable for business professionals. Switching up the shape and introducing more natural texture on the top gives a more relaxed and individual feel to the cut.

“Also, there is the choice of the level where you begin to taper the fade. Despite the name of the cut, you can play with transition height – it doesn’t always have to be ‘mid’ as seen on my client. The option to take the taper higher or lower depending on customer preference can really transform the overall result. On the majority of my haircuts, I like to line up the edges of the hairline to add an extra pop and contrast to the haircut.

“For a modern and younger feel, I like to finish off the styling on mid taper fades using a twist sponge to enhance the individual curl pattern of my client’s hair. First, before using the sponge, I always make sure that the hair is fully combed out and detangled so that it forms neat curls and isn’t picking up damage during styling.

“Personally, I also like to moisturise the hair beforehand with my EXTREATMENT Curl Cream. This extra hydration not only helps to enhance the twists or curls, it makes sure the strands are less prone to breakage and makes the ‘rubbing’ motion which encourages the curl formation much easier.

“I gently rub the sponge against my clients hair in a repeated circular motion, maintaining the same direction of movement all over the head. I start by focussing on the tips of the hair, gradually applying more pressure as I get deeper into the Afro.

“The key is to not press down too harshly, as that can cause the hair to break and to keep pressure uniform so that the curls form evenly. You then just keep rubbing until you have created the desired look you are after!”