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Nicola Coughlan is Talk of the ’Ton

Nicola Coughlan is Talk of the ’Ton

Nicola Coughlan is Talk of the ’Ton

Session stylist Halley Brisker lifts the lid on working with the Bridgerton star as its third series hits Netflix.

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Custom lace front wig for the Met Gala 2022, with colour by Jason Hogan

Dearest readers… Whether you are a Bridgerton fanatic, a member of the Polin fandom or have never watched an episode at all, you’ve most probably come across Nicola Coughlan at some point in the past few years. From Derry Girls to Big Mood, she has a knack of creating ‘wow’ moments that love to go viral. That’s in part due to her role as Penelope Featheringtonin the Netflix hit Bridgerton, and also because she enjoys an exploratory sense of style that captures attention online and on social media.

One of the more misunderstood parts of my job is the ‘style journey’ as I like to call it, which myself and other glam team members craft through the unique partnership we create with our clients. Almost everybody has a personal sense of style but when one also has a public-facing life, there often isn’t time to take care of hair, make-up and wardrobe choices when carrying out duties that come with the role. That’s where professionals come in…

Going red for the Barbie premiere in London

Met Gala 2022

However, where it gets particularly exciting is when my clients want to go a step beyond the expected and craft a style iconography. I’ve worked with a breadth of talent over the years; many like to execute minimal changes to their personal style and have us perform only that, as best we know how for them. Then others want to push the boundaries of style, which for any creative is a form of pure joy. Nicola has always been someone with a love of style and the courage to be dynamic. We met – along with make-up artist Neil Young, stylist Aimee Croysdill and nail technician Michelle Class – on a photoshoot for Refinery29 in 2020. Nicola was already established thanks to her role in the hit show Derry Girls, and was due to appear in the debut season of Bridgerton. We had no idea how big that show would become nor the importance of the role of Penelope Featherington within the Bridgerton universe!

 

 

 

 

 

“Nicola has always been someone with a love of style and the courage to be dynamic”

Halley Brisker

Halley Brisker

It often takes time to discover what our clients’ goals are when working with glam teams. In the nearly four years we’ve worked together as a team of creatives alongside Nicola, we’ve created looks that have incorporated extensive product knowledge – from the oily, sleek locks for the SAG Awards to textured, A-line bobs at The Baftas. Hair piece sourcing for faux bangs at front row shows for Miu Miu in Paris and braided hair bows for the Stylist magazine awards in London. We’ve experimented with colour too; Nicola went red for the Barbie premiere in London and with the custom-coloured lace front wig I created for Nicola at the 2022 Met Gala, Jason Hogan at Josh Wood Atelier painstakingly coloured it to complement a bespoke Richard Quinn dress.

 

Halley and the glam team at work behind the scenes

Stylist Magazine Awards, 2022

Throughout this incredible style journey we’ve gone on together, the thread that has been a relative constant has been Bridgerton, which has just launched its third season. That instalment sees Nicola’s character take centre stage in the plot, to become…  nope, I’m not giving anything away!

It’s no coincidence that as looks go, the hair finish in New York was one of our most straightforward; sometimes we ‘grow as we go’. Of course, I have no idea what the future looks like for Bridgerton or Penelope, but to see hundreds of fans turn out for Nicola was a special moment and a perfect opportunity to create simple, elegant looks for this milestone moment.

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The Most Wanted And It List 2024 Finalists Have Been Named

The Most Wanted And It List 2024 Finalists Have Been Named

The Most Wanted And It List 2024 Finalists Have Been Named

Meet the extraordinary talents in the running for 22 coveted trophies

Hundreds of entries, showcasing exceptional talent, filled with ingenuity and packed with passion, flooded in for Creative HEAD’s 2024 Most Wanted and It List Awards. The standard was exceptional, and the job for our judges – dozens of expert names working in hair, beauty, fashion, business and the media – was monumental. But the results are in, and we are hugely proud to reveal who’s made it through to the finals in this year’s competitions.

For a full list of Most Wanted 2024 finalists, click here

For a full list of It List 2024 finalists, click here

To everyone who shared with us their stories, creativity, skill, ambition, and drive, thank you. No matter the outcome, know that you are all the reason British and Irish hairdressing is regarded the very best in the world.

Finalists will gather at the Most Wanted and It List Grand Final, the industry’s hot ticket event, taking place on Monday 2 September at Beams – a lofty East London location. The Grand Final brings together an all-star guest list of more than 700 names to celebrate the crowning of the 2024 winners.

Want to be there? Get on the Most Wanted and It List Grand Final guest list! Tickets go on sale at 9am on Monday 8 July. To receive updates, sign up for the Creative HEAD newsletter.

 

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“You can just turn up and shoot” – Say hello to Grid Studios

“You can just turn up and shoot” – Say hello to Grid Studios

“You can just turn up and shoot” – Say hello to Grid Studios

The new content creation space for hair stylists that’s obsessed with perfecting your light.

Located in the heart of London’s Old Street you’ll find new Grid Studios, specifically designed for hair and beauty creatives. It’s run by Danny Mendoza-Hall and Ben Ottewell, hair content creators par excellence… and they’ve even worked with Jordanna Cobella to access her in-depth knowledge of the industry to ensure it was spot-on for the modern stylist.

This 100 sq m-plus studio boasts 3.5m high ceilings, an outside courtyard and a banging coffee bar. There are six fully equipped styling stations and a backwash unit with 360-degree access, perfect for every angle when filming. Yes, you’ll find everything you would expect to see in any top salon, but it’s all the extra touches that the social media savvy stylist needs today that impresses. There’s a shower room for capturing wet looks and products, multiple backdrops, materials, polyboards and all the A/V equipment you could need to host events and education. 

Plenty of natural light pours into the space, thanks to the 14m of south-facing windows. But the stand-out element might just be the custom-built lighting system. Hair creatives are always keen to show their work in the best light, and Grid Studio’s lighting system gives an even balanced daylight throughout the space. Its custom system automatically changes the colour temperature of the lighting to match the colour temperature of the daylight, so wherever you are in the space, the lighting and colour is perfect. The lights in the mirrors also change temperature! “We have put this lighting system in place so you can just turn up and shoot without the need to rent additional equipment, meaning you can significantly cut down on the costs of creating high-end content,” says Danny.

There’s also an own in-house production team – Grid Productions – that’s been creating hair content for years, working with some of the industry’s biggest brands. “Our goal was to make high-end content creation accessible both to brands and to hairdressers and beauty professionals,” he adds.

What’s on offer? First, there’s single chair rental, which works in a similar way to a freelance salon – you can rent a chair for the day, bring in your models and use the lighting, equipment and shoot area to create content. Alternatively, the entire studio is available to rent – that comes with all six stations, the backwash and the shoot area, just right for creating branded content and campaigns.

“We created this space to solve the problems we come up against when shooting both in salons and in studios,” says Danny. “Salons often don’t have the ceiling height, they have mismatched lighting, and are busy and noisy. We usually need to bring in loads of additional lighting, and shoot in cramped conditions. Studios don’t generally have styling stations or backwashes, which means you can’t properly capture the creation process. Again, you still need to bring in additional lighting, which is very expensive, making it unachievable for your average freelancer.”

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Is It Time To Keep Quiet?

Is It Time To Keep Quiet?

Is It Time To Keep Quiet?

More than half of stylists and clients favour of silent services – and they could earn you more money.

Danielle Garner
Samantha Cusick
Silent hair services are nothing new – in fact, they’ve been back in the news recently but fresh research suggests it might be time for more salons and stylists to turn down the chatter. More than half (56 per cent) of hair stylists – and 53 per cent of clients – would prefer “silent” services, according to a survey of 2,000 consumers and 100 freelance and salon hair stylists across the UK by Ripe Hair & Beauty Insurance.

Silent slots could also positively impact the bottom line. Offering silent services as an option could create a 25 per cent revenue boost to the industry, as clients said they would book more return visits if a quiet appointment could be guaranteed. Clients said they would book more frequently if silent options were available.

The findings showed that on average, return visits could increase by around 1.7 times per customer, per year. So Ripe did some maths: the typical client visits a salon 6.7 times a year, spending £55.40 per appointment and £371.18 annually, according to its own data. Silent services could increase this to 8.4 visits a year with a total annual spend of £465.36 – an uplift of 25 per cent.

More than half (56 per cent) of hair stylists – and 53 per cent of clients – would prefer “silent” services, according to a survey of 2,000 consumers and 100 freelance and salon hair stylists across the UK by Ripe Hair & Beauty Insurance. Silent slots could also positively impact the bottom line.

Offering silent services as an option could create a 25 per cent revenue boost to the industry, as clients said they would book more return visits if a quiet appointment could be guaranteed. Clients said they would book more frequently if silent options were available.

 

The findings showed that on average, return visits could increase by around 1.7 times per customer, per year. So Ripe did some maths: the typical client visits a salon 6.7 times a year, spending £55.40 per appointment and £371.18 annually, according to its own data. Silent services could increase this to 8.4 visits a year with a total annual spend of £465.36 – an uplift of 25 per cent. Consumer feedback in the survey included comments about “chat for the sake of it” and the desire to “switch off from the stress of the day”. “I wish there was an agreement you can make at the start of the appointment that the other person doesn’t want to talk,” said one client. Salons and stylists with neurodiverse clients have also discussed how noisy spaces can be overwhelming for many with social anxiety. Samantha Cusick, founder of Samantha Cusick London and Stā Studios, has introduced a silent appointment option on her salons’ online booking.

“We’re always seeking ways to empower our clients and create their perfect salon experience. ‘Silent appointments’ is a thoughtful initiative designed to honour our clients’ need for self-care and personal space, understanding that a salon visit is not just about physical transformation but also mental rejuvenation.”

She first checked with her salon audience on social media, with more than three-quarters (78 per cent) voting for the option. Clients can request a silent appointment when booking, which means stylists “negate any small talk, allowing for a serene and introspective experience with no awkwardness. This approach respects individual preferences creating an environment of mutual understanding and care,” she added. But how is that communicated in a busy salon without that awkwardness? “We have a discreet method, and it’s quite simple: we place a small vase on the workstation. This subtle signal helps the rest of the team to adjust their approach accordingly.”

Samantha says that client feedback has been “overwhelmingly positive”, with many appreciating the option to unwind or focus on ‘working from home’. “They particularly like that they can book the service online so again no need to feel awkward,” she explained. Should we shut up more for silent appointments? Let us know at @creativeheadmag.com

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Is Your Business Keeping You Awake At Night?

Is Your Business Keeping You Awake At Night?

Is Your Business Keeping You Awake At Night?

A perfect storm of negative drivers is disrupting hairdressing businesses nationwide.

by ATHERINE | THE COST OF DOING BUSINESS

Hairdressing businesses – many still carrying debts arising from the pandemic – are currently grappling with high energy bills, increased employment costs and cautious consumer spending. Pouring fuel onto the fire are rising borrowing costs, which squeeze margins and place more businesses in financial distress. With the era of cheap money over, business challenges are becoming more difficult to resolve.

The Bank of England has raised UK interest rates 14 times since December 2021 in a bid to control inflation. At the time of going to press, rates stand at 5.25 per cent, up from zero a few years back. Consequently, the cost of raising or refinancing loans has shot up and businesses that loaded up on debt at rock-bottom rates are facing a “financial reality check”, says Julie Palmer, a managing partner at turnaround specialists Begbies Traynor. Consumer-facing sectors such as hairdressing, hospitality, retail and leisure have been hit particularly hard, she says. Alarmingly, the number of insolvencies in 2023 was the highest it’s been since 1993 and 52 per cent more than in 2021, according to the Office for National Statistics.

The impact is being most widely felt as a ‘chill’ on investment and growth, as borrowing becomes more difficult, says the Federation of Small Businesses (FSB). The trade group says would-be borrowers increasingly report being asked for personal guarantees against loans, even for relatively small amounts, which prevents many from going ahead. It also found three in 10 small firms that recently applied for were rejected. “Many small businesses are waiting until interest rates start to fall once again before investing in anything that isn’t core to their business,” says policy chair Tina McKenzie.

“Politicians and policymakers should remember that small firms have been the driving force behind our recovery from past recessions, and this time around it’ll be no different, if they are given the right conditions to start up, scale up, and prosper.” Tina McKenzie, Policy Chair, Federation of Small Businesses 

For many hairdressing business owners, however, investment and future growth have long been a pipe dream; it’s the here and now that’s keeping them awake at night: “Will I be able to meet payroll this Wednesday? How many clients might cancel this week? Will our income be big enough to cover ourexpenses? Is it slightly down right now? Is that a trend? How does it compare to last week, month, quarter, year?” These daily struggles can literally take over your life and have you questioning the very reasons you went into business in the first place. No wonder we’ve seen a rise in so-called director fatigue, where owner-managers shut or sell their businesses and re-join the labour market for an easier life. 

CASE STUDY

“It’s been impossible for me to get funding.” Sheona Will, owner, Bloom Lifestyle, nationwide

“I had run a business for 22 years with two others when in 2019 we decided to go our separate ways. I took on the Glasgow salon, which I called Bloom Lifestyle, and in 2020 I opened my Aberdeen salon. I managed to survive Covid and all the lockdowns and in 2022 I was invited by Keune to open their flagship salon at Keune HQ in London. So, three salons in three years, all fully employed.

“Some of the challenges are the same as they’ve always been: recruitment, salon culture, mindset, etc. But I also feel like the sand has shifted beneath our feet somewhat, and there are areas where I used to be confident and now I’m not so sure.

“It’s very difficult to secure any kind of funding to open a salon nowadays or just to cut yourself some slack. In my previous business, where we’d been trading for over 20 years, it might have been different, but I only have Covid accounts so it’s impossible to get a bank loan or an overdraft. I’ve had to be really creative with my finances, which has piled on the pressure.  

“Then there’s the changing attitudes towards employment. We have our graduate programme, which takes NVQ Level 2 and 3 hairdressers and gets them up our own internal standard, then we have our stylists, who earn commission-based pay, and then we have our highly experienced members of the team, who are more than likely on a freelance contract. In my previous business I knew the culture inside out, but now it’s like running three different businesses at once.

CASE STUDY

“I used to run my own business. Now I’m an employee again.” Jon Ellis, Smith England, Salisbury

“I had my own hairdressing business for 10 years. We were wellknown in the town for being a good place to work but eventually I sold the business (while retaining the freehold to the property) and moved to Cornwall with my partner.

“Then Covid hit and we had sick parents and so we decided to move back. And the manager of the salon at the time was looking for a bigger premises, so there was this real possibility of running my own business again. I love hairdressing and it wouldn’t have taken a lot of money to get the business up and running again. But when I asked myself if I wanted to do this again, the answer was no.

“That was partly because of the cost of running the business – minimum wage for starters, which is killing this industry, plus I would have had to register for VAT. I don’t mind paying VAT, but why do I have to pay the same rate as a business that’s turning over £4 million?

“And the other thing was the culture change in the industry now. I just feel there’s no loyalty. You can rent out your chairs and offer the best deal you can, but someone can open up round the corner, offer a little bit more, and everyone ups and leaves you.

“Years ago, I worked for Phil Smith when he had his Toni&Guy empire, and now he has his Smith England salon in Salisbury. Icalled him up and told him I wanted to work in a salon again, I wanted to be employed. He said, ‘When do you want to start?’  

“Being back in a salon has been really refreshing, and there are so many benefits to being employed. The security of a regular wage, holiday pay and sick pay takes away so much stress. Now, if Mrs Jones cancels, I don’t have to fret. If something happens to me, Mrs Jones can be moved to another stylist in the salon temporarily, and then when I come back to work, she’ll be returned to me.

Running my business had made me ill – it was one of the reasons we moved to Cornwall in the first place. Now my health has improved, and I am really enjoying my work. I count myself very lucky.”