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A twist on a styling staple, Tariq Howes combined early noughties nostalgia with ‘footballer craze’ energy to deliver an evolution of the classic mohawk at The Coterie: In Session, held in Manchester in October 2022. Presented first to a live audience, Tariq’s take on the iconic style is as fresh today as it was then.
A Creative HEAD event in partnership with BaByliss PRO, hosted by George Driver, formerly of Elle UK.
Hair: Tariq Howes
Make-up: Lou Pye
Fashion: Sonia Genders assisted by Gee Stanley
Model: Andre Hassan
Videography: Black Rock Creative
Photography: Ema Crompton
Production: The Creative Partnerships division at Creative HEAD
Venue: fivefourstudios
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Sam Kerswell, photographed by Lynett Genockey of Harplette Photography with make-up by Tracy Graham
It’s no secret that the hair salon is seen as a safe space by clients – it’s a chance for them to vent, divulge details from their personal lives and chat to hairdressers like old friends. Often, hairdressers consider themselves to be agony aunts, but what happens when it goes beyond discussing a new relationship or family drama?
A hair salon can be a lifeline for someone experiencing abuse and may provide a safe place to seek help, be it as a client or as an employee at the space. For hairdresser Sam Kerswell, a survivor of domestic abuse, his clients knew something was up because of him repeatedly cancelling or rescheduling appointments. When they eventually got to see Sam in person, they noticed how his physical appearance had changed because of the abuse he was suffering at home.
Like so many victims of domestic abuse, Sam was afraid to speak out against his abuser, with those in his life none the wiser as to what was causing the bruises, weight loss, and much more besides. Fast forward a year, and he’s now sharing his story to raise awareness and help anyone else who is suffering in silence.
If you’re concerned about a colleague or client, here Sam shares the signs you should be looking out for, and what to do if you’re wanting to offer support but unsure how to help.
1. Physical injuries: Notice unexplained bruises, cuts, or marks, especially if they occur frequently or seem to be escalating in severity.
2. Changes in behaviour: Look for sudden changes in mood, anxiety, or withdrawal from social interactions.
3. Isolation: If a co-worker or client becomes increasingly isolated, avoids social gatherings, or makes excuses to not participate in group activities, it could be a sign of controlling behaviour from an abusive partner.
4. Excessive absences or tardiness: Consistent tardiness or unexplained absences could indicate the need to hide injuries or emotional distress caused by domestic abuse.
5. Unusual financial strain: Notice if a co-worker or client suddenly experiences financial difficulties, such as requesting pay advances, selling personal items, or borrowing money frequently. This could be a result of financial control or manipulation by an abuser.
6. Fearfulness or nervousness: Pay attention to signs of fearfulness, nervousness, or being easily startled, especially if they seem to be in the presence of their partner.
7. Overly controlling partner: If a co-worker or client’s partner exhibits overly controlling behaviour, such as constantly calling or texting, monitoring their whereabouts, or restricting their communication with others, it could be a red flag.
8. Unexplained excuses or cover-ups: Be wary of inconsistent or implausible explanations for injuries, missed work, or changes in behaviour. Unexplained weight loss and excuses as to why is also an indicator as some abusers limit food intake.
9. Uncharacteristic clothing choices: Notice if a co-worker or client wears clothing that seems inappropriate for the weather or situation, which could be an attempt to hide physical injuries.
10. Expressions of fear or concern: If they confide in you about feeling afraid or concerned about their safety at home, take their words seriously and offer support and resources for help.
Sam with friend Annie Franklin
Sam behind the scenes of a photo shoot
1. Choose a private and safe space: Initiate the conversation in a private setting where the individual feels comfortable and safe. This could be a quiet office or a secluded area away from others.
2. Express concern and support: Begin the conversation by expressing genuine concern for their well-being. Let them know that you’ve noticed certain signs or behaviours that have raised concerns and that you are there to support them.
3. Listen actively: Allow the individual to share their thoughts, feelings, and experiences without interruption. Practice active listening by maintaining eye contact, nodding, and providing affirmations to show that you are engaged and empathetic.
4. Avoid judgment and blame: Refrain from making assumptions or placing blame on the individual for their situation. Instead, focus on validating their experiences and feelings while offering reassurance that they are not alone, and that help is available.
5. Offer resources and assistance: Provide information about available resources, such as domestic violence hotlines, counselling services, legal assistance, and support groups. Offer to assist them in accessing these resources if needed, while respecting their autonomy to make their own decisions.
6. Respect confidentiality: Assure the individual that any information they share with you will be kept confidential to the extent possible, while also explaining any legal or professional obligations you may have to report certain disclosures of abuse.
7. Create a safety plan: Work together to develop a safety plan tailored to their specific situation, which may include steps to ensure their immediate safety, such as identifying safe places to go or establishing a code word to signal for help.
8. Follow up and check in: Continue to offer support and check in with the individual regularly to see how they are doing. Let them know that you are there for them whenever they need someone to talk to or if they need assistance in any way.
By approaching these conversations with empathy, understanding, and a commitment to supporting the individual’s autonomy and well-being, you can help clients and colleagues feel empowered to seek help and make positive changes in their lives.
The Scottish session stylist and Tim Walker collaborator is operating at the upper echelons of fashion once more.
Laura Chadwick
With a background in fashion, I never imagined myself working on music videos.
However, fate had other plans, leading me on a journey filled with unexpected opportunities and thrilling experiences.
It all began during the Covid pandemic when I was brought in by a make-up artist to provide haircuts and styling for a music video shoot for Inhaler in Dublin. Despite the challenging circumstances, my skills as a qualified barber impressed the production team, opening doors to a world I had never considered.
Working on that first music video was a turning point for me. It made me realise that there was so much more to my craft than just fashion. Music videos offered a whole new realm of creativity and expression.
With my foot in the door, my journey in the music video industry continued to unfold. A contact in Sony recognised my talent and offered me opportunities to work with various music artists, ranging from emerging talents to established names. These experiences working with smaller artists gave me a solid foundation and understanding of the industry. I learned to adapt to different styles and visions, honing my skills along the way.
Becky Hill’s music video for Outside of Love
It was a connection through a stylist named Kyle Devolle that would change the trajectory of my career. Through Kyle, I was introduced to Becky Hill, a chart-topping artist known for her powerhouse vocals and dynamic performances. Working with Becky was like stepping into a whole new world. The scale of the productions was immense, with elaborate sets and breath-taking locations. It was an exhilarating experience, and I felt privileged to be a part of it.
Despite my initial focus on fashion, I have found a new passion in music videos. Each project brings its own challenges and rewards, but there’s something special about seeing your work come to life alongside the music. As I continue to make my mark in the music video industry, I remain grateful for the opportunities that have come my way. I never could have imagined this journey when I started out, but I’m grateful for every twist and turn that has led me here. My story serves as a testament to the power of following unexpected paths and embracing new opportunities. With passion and determination, there’s no telling where my journey will lead next.
@hairbylaurachadwick
The Scottish session stylist and Tim Walker collaborator is operating at the upper echelons of fashion once more.
Stylist, image maker and visionary, Roman Sys is a stylist at the iconic London salon, Brooks & Brooks. Always keen to push boundaries and create new visually striking collections, Roman was forced to get creative with his latest collection Paradigm. Due to shoots becoming just too expensive, he reached for his iPhone instead… and got busy with his collage skills!
Some people have a fixed process; they know the motions they need to go through to produce the results. For others, it’s different altogether. My creative process is not fixed at all! I’m inspired by everything and nothing at the same time. If I’m harvesting references from outside sources such as literature, art, nature, or music, my approach is very neutral. I will overlap images and text and sounds to fit my own mindset. More often than not there is an internal feeling I express subconsciously or consciously in my work. That excites me most – the idea of leaving the work open for interpretation and not being so literal.
Roman Sys
My boards work like mind maps. Sometimes it’s hard to explain ideas when you’re in the thick of it and your mind is in creative overdrive. Creating a board that makes sense can take anytime between a week and a month. I find that when I overlap images, there is often more than just one feeling I’m conveying, it’s never singular. I can read between the lines of the imagery that I have collected; this helps me to find my perspective and ground the ideas that are flowing in my head.
I don’t necessarily create the boards directly for a project or collection. I will just create a board to understand where I am and then it goes in the cupboard! I might decide to work with it for a project, or it will be reworked into something else. A cool thing happened when Sally and Jamie Brooks asked if I would contribute to the salon art for our new Brooks & Brooks home at Great Queen Street. I created an A1 board of collage, ink and paint with gentle textures that was an exploration of ‘familiar feelings and potential’.
My vision extends beyond what I produce creatively but is interwoven into the work I create and how I choose to capture it. I want to promote accessibility and cultivate a starter-friendly industry. Therefore, what I frequently create is artistry without excess. Image making is how I would describe my process; I street cast my models, and I’m inspired by them. This is my starting point and they influence the project. Everything I’ve done is based on collaboration. There is something about creating in the moment and then capturing it on an iPhone that allows me to have full creative control on the project. This bridges the gaps of high standard imagery, affordability, and accessibility.
The definition of paradigm is the current example of a system or idea. With this collection I wanted to shift our mindsets away from what we have seen before. I wanted to combine my hair work, my photographic style and collage together for something that feels totally DIY, yet with moments of interest and curiosity. I wanted the process to be the result, it was a last-minute urge to just do something. It was quite amazing to me how the clippings I had collected and the photos of textures and colours I had taken (that I would later go onto rip up and use in the collage) had this relationship with the hair work I had created.
This collection was shot completely on my iPhone, to inspire and encourage other people to create for the love of it. I decided to collage over the images after I had taken the photos. I hadn’t planned the collage around the photographs in advance. I like to leave some things down to instinct, which allowed for the process to feel authentic.
No apps or Photoshop were used to produce the collage/artwork. I created the collage around the image then scanned it to create a digital copy. It was important for me to bring the contrast of the instant digital element of iPhone photography with the tactile physical application of collaging over the printed images, and then using ink and paint to produce variation in the texture.
Hair, creative concept, collage and photography: Roman Sys at Brooks & Brooks.
Make-up: Ivory Raine
The Scottish session stylist and Tim Walker collaborator is operating at the upper echelons of fashion once more.
Lauren Bell |
London-based Lauren Bell spent years honing her craft before going freelance in January 2020; she is self-represented and her published highlights include prestigious publications such as Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, and Elle. Artistic by nature, Lauren immersed herself in the beauty industry at a very young age. Her introduction to the fashion world in 2015 led her to work backstage at runway shows with some of the biggest names in the industry. This experience sparked a passion for individualism as expressed through fashion and beauty. Lauren’s natural talent in hairstyling has allowed her to build an extensive portfolio and clientele, working with all hair types and capable of achieving any desired look. “Building relationships with muses, artists, and brands to bring their vision to life is the most fulfilling part of my job,” she says |
Lauren Bell
London-based Lauren Bell spent years honing her craft before going freelance in January 2020; she is self-represented and her published highlights include prestigious publications such as Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, and Elle.
Artistic by nature, Lauren immersed herself in the beauty industry at a very young age. Her introduction to the fashion world in 2015 led her to work backstage at runway shows with some of the biggest names in the industry. This experience sparked a passion for individualism as expressed through fashion and beauty.
Lauren’s natural talent in hairstyling has allowed her to build an extensive portfolio and clientele, working with all hair types and capable of achieving any desired look. “Building relationships with muses, artists, and brands to bring their vision to life is the most fulfilling part of my job,” she says
What would you say are your strongest points as a hair artist?
My strongest points are my eye and my fearlessness towards styling hair. I’ve always had the courage to try out different approaches to applying products and techniques. It’s my art, an opportunity for me not to think and just do, go with the feeling, and it’s one of the few times I actually allow myself to get out my head. I also believe my communication skills and being at ease around other people allow me to create a rapport with models and build the trust that’s needed for me to create.
What is important to you, as a hair professional? In other words, what do you want to offer your clients?
Comfort, safety, hair integrity, an opportunity to express themselves, enhance themselves, build trust, not worry about how they look so they can speak their truth or tell their story. It’s become very important for me to work with people who have something to say so I can support them to do this.
The last three months: where have you been, who have you worked with, and what have you been planning?
Since the beginning of the year I’ve been working in Europe for hair brands. I’ve been to Berlin for fashion week and worked fashion week in London with Bimini. I’ve been to fancy hotels with clients, location shoots with Self Esteem, the Brits and worked in London studios with brands like Sephora and Juicy Couture. I’ve also created content and collaborated on editorials, so there’s been a real variety.
Looking back, who/what has got you to this point in your career?
My determination to prove a point! I recently gave a talk at college for Careers Week and it reminded me how determined I had to be to prove that I CHOSE this path to become a hairdresser, that it wasn’t a last resort. I think my need to prove that has definitely played a part in how successful I am now. Also, it goes without saying that I’m here because of my love for this craft and the amazing people I get to work with and the mentors that have helped me direct my path and encourage my growth as a stylist and as a human being.
Your ultimate creative collaboration – what would that look like? Who would be in it?
Oh, wow… Somewhere hot, at dusk, with warm sea air blowing through the hair, all the supermodels, activists and iconic actresses of the past and present on set… It’s really hard for me to answer who would actually be as there are too many people I admire. I see it being a day shoot by the pool and then taking to the coast for the celebration runway. Err, do you think I need a holiday? Lol.
What excites you about hairdressing right now?
There are so many new paths in this industry for people to explore and find out what works for them. I love that about my own journey. My career has been very explorative and full of variation; I don’t know if hairdressing can be beaten in this sense. As someone who has an innate curiosity for people and places, I sometimes have to take a minute to celebrate all the different locations I have had the opportunity to travel to for work and all the different kinds of people I get to meet along the way. The variation and freedom really excite me.
I love this image from a Juicy Couture campaign. The model, Vix, had beautiful hair and I really like the shine I created with product.
This was a super-fun shoot with stylist @izzymoriartythompson and photographer @ulas_merve. I love how we captured movement through the braids I created and embellished with wooden beads.
This is a look I created for [performer and drag artist] Bimini at LFW. I got creative and made a pony out of gaffer tape. It’s always exciting using different materials in place of hair.
I love this look I created using a coloured wax in place of a root – it works so well with the rest of the texture. I’d smashed a pot of the same colour that morning, which gave me the initial inspiration. It’s similar to [ceramics process] kintsugi and techniques used by Cyndia Harvey at Diesel. This was shot in my flat by my friend and make-up artist, Aimee Twist.
Shot by Morgan Roberts, with make-up by Aimee Twist. I love the simplicity of this beauty shot, and how I used small details of hair to complement the make-up.
I love this BTS image from a shoot I worked on. I used so much gel to create the high-shine effect, the hair looks unreal – like it’s set in resin.
What frustrates you about hairdressing right now?
As a self-represented freelance stylist, I find myself getting frustrated with the rates and budget dance that I have to do. I have noticed a big shift in how I am approached for work and how ‘shopping around’ for the cheapest rate has become very noticeable in discussions – I’d hardly call them negotiations. It concerns me that we don’t know how much we should be charging (it isn’t easy to find out, either, believe me) and with clients being able to reach out directly to people via social media platforms, it’s creating so much variation in rates that it has the potential to devalue everyone. I think there needs to be more education on the fee aspect of our job, more honest communication around it. Maybe even a union? A dedicated, pre-scripted rate education platform? While I respect that there is a journey to be had with regards to experience, skill base and our own personal worth, I worry that we are very vulnerable to being taken advantage of, especially compared to other creative fields in the fashion industry.
What’s your opinion on why so many hair pros work for free backstage and on set, and how do you think hair pros can establish more value for the work they do?
I think assisting for free has a value if you know what you want and choose a stylist that you admire – then it’s like a free education course. Do I think it should be totally free? No, it shouldn’t come at a cost to the individual, as it so often does. But when you’re starting out, it’s vital to learn on-set etiquette and how to create hair in that field, and assisting for free is often ‘sold’ as an opportunity to network, which it can be. I was lucky enough to work with people who cared about my career, so I was encouraged to network with the photographer’s assistants, to collaborate with them and build my own portfolio. However, it’s important to manage expectations.
Working for free was a huge part of the beginning of my career. Coming from a working class family, I did not have the resources to sign up for bootcamps or education programmes, and nor could I afford to work solely for free. This meant I had to work triple time so I could eventually afford to go self-employed. I have no regrets, because it takes time to learn, reflect, explore, educate yourself and find your style/ethos. However, I can’t help but wonder whether my career could have gone faster, and I would have had more energy for my creativity if those early financial barriers hadn’t been there.
It’s a shame that some of the most creative aspects of our industry are considered low- to no-pay. Should there be a small fee to make it more affordable? It’s a difficult one to get your head around when the stylist you’re assisting isn’t get paid either. And that’s a problem, especially when the other people on set are getting paid. I don’t have the answers for how things will change, but in an ideal world none of us should be working for free in the first place.
This was a super-cool creative look that we worked on for the episode of Drag Race where musician Self Esteem was a judge. It includes a nod to Betty Boop as our reference for glamour.
This was a BTS shot that Aimee took on her digital camera. I love the hair details into the model’s face.
This is a wig that I have which worked perfectly with some wax to create the texture I wanted.
A campaign for a jewellery brand. I love how clean this look is. It was so cool seeing it on posters plastered on walls all around Berlin!
The Scottish session stylist and Tim Walker collaborator is operating at the upper echelons of fashion once more.
Yolanda Cooper
It was when she was at an airport in 2016 that Yolanda Cooper had her idea for her electrical tool, the SupernovaPRO. She was checking in for a flight with overweight baggage, mainly because of the number of different hair tools she was travelling with. ‘There’s got to be an answer for this’, she thought. It turned out there was. And it’s a game-changer.
The SupernovaPRO is the world’s first three-in-one hair styler combining a fully functioning straightening iron, curling tong and wave wand in one ultra-sleek, beautiful-to-behold tool. It comes with a whole host of first-to-market patented features, including revolutionary SmartSwitch technology that makes it the only hot styling tool with three independently powered functions; premium grade ceramic plates infused with Trionic technology that softens, smooths and hydrates the hair; and a patent-pending ergonomic DoublePivot system, which relieves pressure on the median nerve to reduce the risk of carpal tunnel syndrome – a condition especially prevalent in pro stylists.
The SupernovaPRO tool
Not bad for a young female entrepreneur from Belfast designing her first electrical tool! “I think going in blind to something allows you to be completely free of fear,” says Yolanda. “If you knew what you were getting into before you did these crazy things, half the time you wouldn’t do it because you’ve no idea how complex it is, how long these things take and how many reasons there are for it to fail. Some of the best entrepreneurs are the ones who just have no clue what they’re doing, they just go into it and commit to figuring it out later.”
Armed only with a sketch of what she felt the tool could look like, Yolanda set about hiring industry-leading industrial designers and engineers to turn her concept into a reality. It took five years to refine the tool mechanically and aesthetically as she constantly challenged her team to come up with the technology to match her ideas.
“Going in blind to something allows you to be completely free of fear”
“Very early on we realised that if this is going to be a professional tool, then three-in-one is brilliant but it can’t be a compromised experience – we have to make each of those tools incrementally better than what’s on the market,” says Yolanda. And I think I think that’s what we’ve done. So, straighteners have always been symmetrical and rectangular, but what if you need to get right into the baby hairs at the root? We made our straightener narrower at the tip, so that it allows you – for example – to detail short fringes and work with Type 3 and 4 hair.
Ceramic technology provides great negative ions into the hair, but how do we take that even further? I’m a trichologist, so that’s why I came up with the idea of taking a heat protection formula and infusing it into the plates to give superior shine. When it came to the tong, we changed the tip to a rubber material so that you can literally hold onto it, even when the temperature is set at 200˚C. And we spent a long time perfecting the exact torsion of the spring and the double-pivot system to make the tool more comfortable to use. Consumers might not notice that benefit, because they’re only going to use the tool for 20 minutes at a time, but hair pros, who are styling nine hours a day – they’re really going to see the difference.”
Proud that the SupernovaPRO is designed, engineered and manufactured in Great Britain, and fully aware that she is competing against some industry heavyweights, Yolanda is putting her experience as a former marketing director to good use. “Core to our communication and marketing strategy is a grassroots approach,” she says. “We have a programme called The Salon Spotlight, where we send our film crew into a salon to shoot collaborative content, including interviews with the stylists and footage of them styling their client’s hair in different ways. We can also create an event in the salon, where I and our head of engineering will come along and talk to guests. And the content we create can be used for a salon’s own social media campaign to drive awareness. We may not have the budgets that some of the big brands have, but what we do have is passion and agility and the desire to go and partner with salons on a one-to-one basis.”
And finally, why the name Supernova? “I’ve always been fascinated with astrology and stargazing,” says Yolanda. “And with SupernovaPRO we’re trying to create the biggest shining star in the industry. In space, a supernova is a cataclysmic explosion. And so I thought that was a cool name, because we are aiming to be the biggest thing in the industry. It’s quite fitting.”
Retailing at £299, SupernovaPRO is exclusive to salons across the UK and Ireland. To become a stockist or purchase at the wholesale price of £199 plus VAT, visit supernovahairtools.com/pages/creativehead