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L’Oréal Professionnel Paris global ambassador Siobhan Jones shares the perfect technique for delivering high-coverage blonde, using freehand balayage free weaving. “This technique is perfect for anyone who loves the softness of balayage, but is looking for the coverage of foils,” says Siobhan.
Dia Light Formula
Contour: 10.18 with 9vol
Roots: 8.21 with 9 vol
Mid-lengths: 9.21 + 9.82 with 9 vol
Ends: 10.18 with 9 vol
Step 1: The model’s hair is a natural base seven. Start by parting hair in a classic sectioning pattern.
Step 2: Starting at the hairline, take a diagonal section and weave, then use the edge of the tint brush and paint L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Blond Studio Purple Lightening Balm from root to tip. Use your hands to push it down the hair shaft.
Step 3: Join the hair let out from underneath and saturate to the ends, using your hands to push in the balm which will guarantee a nice, bright lift.
Step 4: Repeat this throughout the sides, weaving, painting and saturating the hair.
Step 5: Move diagonally off the parting, starting on the hairline to create a beautiful contour.
Step 6: Moving through the parting on a diagonal angle, use the free weaving technique, which will give a graduated, yet full coverage effect.
Step 7: Repeat this technique throughout the back diamond section on a diagonal. Once you reach the desired lift, gloss over with a Milky Tea toner using L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Dia Light for a beautiful, high-shine blonde.
Step 8: To finish, apply L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Pli to the hair and blow dry smooth and dress with a wide barrel tong for a soft wavy finish.
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Educating your clients about the importance of early intervention is key. Hair loss often worsens when left untreated. Leading trichologist, Mark Blake, tells us that the best thing for clients to do is “get advice and start a hair loss regime as quickly as possible.” Hair loss gets worse if left untreated, so doing nothing is going to let the problem get worse. By guiding your clients to act early, you can help them preserve their hair health and confidence.
One essential point to highlight is the seasonal nature of hair shedding. “Clients shouldn’t be alarmed if they notice more hair loss in September,” Mark shares. “It is the month that we see the highest proportion of natural hair loss in the Northern Hemisphere. It’s thought to be due to seasonal changes in light and weather.” While this is a natural occurrence, you should encourage clients to seek advice if they notice excessive or persistent shedding. Here are a few methods you can share with your clients, so they can start their health growth journey as soon as they leave the salon.
Many clients may not realise how crucial their diet is to hair growth. Hair is composed of approximately 85 per cent protein, and a lack of it can severely impact growth. Blake reminds us that “hair only grows from the protein eaten or retained,” highlighting the importance of a well-balanced diet for hair health.
Secondly, scalp care is critical but often neglected. Blake suggests that clients exfoliate their scalp every six weeks, explaining, “the scalp ages 12 times faster than the skin on the body and six times faster than the skin on the face. The scalp is where the hair must grow out of, and it needs looking after.”
Some clients believe that washing their hair less frequently will help reduce hair loss, but Mark Blake warns against this misconception. “As a Trichologist, I see more problems from hair loss patients who don’t wash their hair frequently than from patients who do wash their hair frequently,” Blake explains. He adds: “Clients should treat their scalp like any other part of their body. They should probably treat it better…scalp health is directly linked to hair health.” Encouraging clients to wash their hair regularly, focusing on scalp health, can help mitigate issues related to hair loss.
As trusted professionals, you can offer more than just styling. Offering scalp treatments, exfoliation services, and hair loss consultations can set your salon apart as a wellness hub for clients concerned about thinning hair. Plus, partnering with specialists, stocking trichologist-recommended products, and training your team in hair loss management will better serve your clients and build trust in your expertise.
Hair loss can be triggered by a wide range of factors, including genetics, hormonal changes, stress, nutrition, and even certain medical conditions or treatments. While understanding the root cause of hair loss is helpful, what’s more important is focusing on timely and effective intervention. Whatever the cause, action can prevent further loss and help restore hair health. The key is not dwelling on why hair loss happens, but rather how you can guide clients towards the best solutions to manage it.
Hair Loss Awareness Month is a great opportunity for salon owners to enhance their services and raise awareness about hair health, even by simply adding more targeted scalp health treatments to your service menu. Offering this added layer of care can position your salon as a leader in holistic hair care.
Hair Loss Awareness Month is a reminder that hair loss is a common issue, and it’s oftentimes tied up with many emotions, but it can be managed with the right knowledge and approach. As stylists, you are in a powerful position to provide education, support, and care for clients experiencing hair loss, helping them to regain their confidence and maintain healthy hair.
Maintaining a healthy work-life balance is crucial. I’ve learned to value rest, nutrition, and exercise as integral parts of my routine. Establishing a morning routine has been a game-changer for me, providing structure and setting a positive tone for the day. This balance between personal care and professional responsibilities ensures I can bring my best self to my work.
Understanding and aligning with my core beliefs has been a significant part of my journey and part of the reason we moved to Davines, a brand that reflects our ethos and values. Authenticity, creativity, kindness, and sharing are the pillars that guide my decisions and actions. These values not only shape my professional approach but also resonate with my personal life, helping to create an alignment in both worlds. The B Corp status of Davines was a big attraction and their transparency and accountability inspired us as a business to look for the best practices and prioritise people over profit.
I understand that when starting your career, it’s tempting to seize every opportunity. With experience, I can offer this advice: focus on what brings you joy. People often talk about work-life balance, but when you find purpose in your career, the alignment naturally follows. You don’t need to chase everything all the time. Recognise what makes you feel good about yourself, and the rest will follow.
When it comes to hair colouring, innovation is everything. We heard from renowned colourist, Brian ‘Leo’ McCallum, about his revolutionary “splicing” technique, a method that’s quickly becoming a favourite among stylists seeking to push the boundaries of creativity. Speaking exclusively to Creative HEAD, Brian shares the inspiration behind his technique, its versatility, and its future in the industry.
The splicing technique was born from his desire to bring more depth and dimension and create a metallic feel. “As colourists, we work with slices every day,” Brian explains. “But I wanted more of an iridescent feel to these pieces.” This led him to experiment with the direction of the slices. After bleaching, he takes each section and splices it in the opposite direction, creating a stunning metallic effect.
While splicing may seem similar to traditional slicing at first, the technique introduces a subtle but significant shift in execution. “Splicing gives you the ability to add harmonious or clashing colours quickly and efficiently,” Brian says. It’s not drastically different from traditional methods, but it does offer a unique twist—literally.
Brian Leo McCallum
By altering the direction in which slices are made, stylists can create a more dynamic and customised look. This technique enhances the colouring process by allowing for more precise colour placement, which can result in a variety of visual effects, from subtle blends to bold contrasts. This flexibility makes splicing an invaluable tool for any stylist looking to push the boundaries of traditional hair colouring.
The technique uses a range of high-quality products to achieve its unique results. Pictured below, Brian used Goldwell Elumen to create vibrant greens, Goldwell Topchic for striking silvers, and Goldwell Colorance for a rich rust orange hue. By splicing sections in different directions, these colours can either harmonise or contrast, depending on the desired effect. The result is a look that is both bold and sophisticated, with a depth that catches the light in a way traditional techniques cannot.
One of the key benefits of the splicing technique is its versatility. “It can be used on all hair types,” he notes. Like any new technique, splicing comes with its own set of challenges. According to Brian, the biggest hurdle is speed. “The primary challenge for stylists learning the technique is speed,” he admits. “However, like any skill, practice leads to improvement. With a few attempts, stylists of all levels find it becomes easy to master.”
As hair trends continue to evolve, so too will the applications of the splicing technique. Brian originally developed splicing for creative looks in photo shoots, but it has since found a place in commercial salon work. “The possibilities are endless,” he says. As more stylists begin to experiment with splicing, it is likely to become a staple in the industry, offering new ways to bring depth, dimension, and individuality to hair colour.
An industry icon and a visionary rising through the ranks – together Trevor Sorbie and Giuseppe Stelitano make quite the powerhouse pairing, sending the success of the Trevor Sorbie brand stratospheric in recent years. Most recently, Giuseppe was the creative genius behind one of the epic hair shows at the L’Oréal Colour Trophy UK Grand Final, and as the brand celebrates its 45th anniversary, it’s never been more apparent that the future is very bright.
Talking exclusively to Creative HEAD, Trevor and Giuseppe discuss what keeps their creative fires alight…
What is your favourite image that each other has created and why?
Trevor: I think this look from Giuseppe is brilliant. It’s a unique way of photographing hair. It’s mystique, it’s got drama, and the angle of the photograph is unlike any photo I’ve seen. Of course, I’m also very proud of Giuseppe’s latest campaign, 1979.
What do you believe makes a great image?
G: To me, a great image tells a story and evokes an emotional response. It’s not just about the technical perfection but about capturing a moment. Lighting, set, make-up, styling and the subject all play crucial roles, but the magic happens when these elements come together to create something that feels truly authentic and fresh.
T: I think the same as Giuseppe, it’s a combination of all elements, as well including the model, hair, photography and make-up also coming together in perfect harmony, which is very rare to get all those elements exactly right. When a picture comes together like that, that’s when you can say you’ve got the wow factor.
When selecting the shots from your collection or creative work, what extra ‘wow factor’ helps you decide what makes the cut?
G: For me it is when I see a shot that makes me stop in my tracks. It’s that instant connection, where everything comes together perfectly…the hair, the model’s expression, the lighting. I look for an image that not only showcases technical skills but is also unique and offers something interesting. It’s that one shot that you know will leave a lasting impression
T: Like the last answer really. You know it when you see it. It must give you an emotion that triggers something in your head. I think to create a good collection, the photographer (and especially the photographer!) must be on the same page as you. It’s got to excite them. When you get that from the photographer, that’s when you know they’ll give it 100 per cent because they are excited.
What are your hopes for the Trevor Sorbie brand in the next 25 years?
G: Looking ahead, I hope to see the Trevor Sorbie brand continue to lead the industry. I picture us expanding our global presence, pioneering trends, and setting new standards in hairstyling. My dream is for us to keep inspiring both our guests and the next generation of hairdressers. I want us to continue breaking boundaries and thinking outside the box, but always keeping in mind our core brand values.
T: The team I’ve grown are the best placed to take the brand forward, continue the legacy that I built, and I truly believe that the Trevor Sorbie brand is in the best hands. I know we will see the brand continue to thrive and grow. I’ve set up my team to carry forward our vision and values, ensuring the brand remains at the forefront of the industry. I am confident that the Trevor Sorbie name will endure and inspire future generations.
What is your favourite aspect of working together, and what makes your working dynamic so special?
G: My favourite aspect of working together is the combination of trust and respect that we have for each other. Although I might have Trevor’s blessing to lead the brand creatively, I’m always asking him for his advice or opinion.
T: As Giuseppe said, it’s the connection we have. When you get the right connection, you can bounce ideas back and forth – one person can excite the other and vice versa. When I chose Giuseppe as our creative director, I saw a lot of myself in him. At first, I had to hold his hand to show him the ropes but within a few months, I let him fly. He had it perfectly in line with my mind. It’s that old fashion saying that ‘great minds think alike’, and that’s me and Giuseppe.
45 years is a fantastic anniversary for the Covent Garden salon! What do you consider to be the secret to your long-term success?
T: I can sum up the answer in two words: discipline and consistency. Anyone who has worked for me will know that when people come to work for me, it’s like joining the army. I break down the way they think and build them back up, and they become one of us. They love my philosophy because it is very simple: I truly care about my staff. I believe our product is our staff.
How has the Trevor Sorbie brand evolved during your time with the company, and what excites you most about working for Trevor Sorbie right now?
G: During my time at Trevor Sorbie, I’ve seen the brand grow in ways that I couldn’t have imagined. We’ve embraced change and adapted ourselves to a much more current world while staying true to the quality and creativity that Trevor Sorbie is known for. What excites me most about working for Trevor Sorbie right now is our ongoing commitment to innovation and excellence. This dedication to staying ahead of the game and constantly evolving makes every day engaging and keeps my enthusiasm for the work alive.
In the bustling world of social media, where Instagram and TikTok reign supreme for many, hairdressers may find themselves pouring into social media content that doesn’t necessarily translate into clientele. Paul Watts, a YouTube hair educator, Joico artist, and hairdresser, sheds light on this phenomenon, highlighting a crucial yet often overlooked portion of the social media landscape, YouTube.
“For me, it’s crazy to see my fellow industry professionals devote their time to platforms that don’t give you a source of income. The amount of immense talent and effort that hairdressers feed into the social media game is unbelievable. They believe this is their opportunity to turn themselves into a business, but all that time they spend isn’t free – they’re sacrificing something.”
Social media platforms like Instagram and TikTok can indeed enhance visibility and help build a brand. However, Watts highlights a critical drawback: “when scrolling on Instagram and TikTok, my feed is swamped with creators copying one another and when you don’t get results that you want, that’s when anxiety starts to creep in. That’s the problem with trends – they’re a trend for a reason. Once everyone starts doing it, it’s easy to get lost in a sea of carbon copies.”
This is where YouTube presents a compelling alternative. Unlike its counterparts, YouTube thrives on delivering value through educational content rather than transient trends. “YouTube isn’t about showing off what you have – it’s all about what you can offer and how you can help others to grow and develop their skills,” Watts explains. This focus on high-quality, free education allows hairdressers to create content that builds and nurtures a community of engaged viewers.
“After joining the platform in 2020, I have amassed over 180k followers and over 28 million views. Having this audience has allowed me to share cutting and colouring tutorials, providing my subscribers with the highest quality education and industry secrets about cutting techniques, colouring, toning, bleaching, and styling. The monetisation of YouTube helped my business to recover from COVID quicker, and even helped to cover the costs of renovating my salon! YouTube has opened doors for me, which I didn’t realise could open.”
As an educator, Watts sees vast potential in YouTube’s format: “Whether you want to be a hair agony aunt, a trend reporter, a step-by-step stylist, or something else – the opportunities are endless.” YouTube offers a platform where content creators can establish themselves as authorities in their field without falling prey to the “follow for follow” culture prevalent on other social media sites.
Watts is candid about the challenges faced by those who feel obligated to participate in the overwhelming trend-forward culture of Instagram and TikTok. “I’m tired of hearing so many fellow industry professionals complaining about Instagram and TikTok and the toxic social media culture that has overcome our industry,” he says. “But they all say the same thing to me – ‘I have to do it for the brand.’ You absolutely do not!”
YouTube offers a more relaxed approach to social media, with the added benefit of monetization opportunities. Watts himself has experienced significant benefits from his YouTube channel, including a global audience and lucrative collaborations with international brands.
If you’re considering making the leap from other social media platforms to YouTube, now is an opportune moment. Watts encourages hair professionals to take advantage of the platform’s potential: “You’re not behind if you begin your YouTube journey now. You’ll be ahead of the industry, as even the big corporates haven’t got it sussed out yet.”
If you are looking to make this shift, Watts’ channel is the perfect starting point. Dive into his content to learn the ins and outs of effectively building your presence on YouTube. With expert insights on launching and growing a successful YouTube channel, his content is tailored specifically for busy hair professionals looking to elevate their brand.
Check out Paul Watts on Youtube here: https://www.youtube.com/@PaulWattsHair
A whirlwind of talent, creativity, and triumph unfolded at the Creative HEAD’s 2024 Most Wanted and It List Grand Final…take a look
Get closer to the action from the MWIT24 Grand Final with a curated gallery of highlights from the night
The Creative HEAD award winners from the Most Wanted and It List 2024 Grand Final have been named.