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Beyond the Basics: Unlock Iridescent Colour With Brian ‘Leo’ McCallum’s Splicing Technique

Beyond the Basics: Unlock Iridescent Colour With Brian ‘Leo’ McCallum’s Splicing Technique

Beyond the Basics: Unlock Iridescent Colour With Brian ‘Leo’ McCallum’s Splicing Technique

Learn how splicing achieves customisable colour and sets new trends in the industry

by CAITLYN | DOCUMENTS

When it comes to hair colouring, innovation is everything. We heard from renowned colourist, Brian ‘Leo’ McCallum, about his revolutionary “splicing” technique, a method that’s quickly becoming a favourite among stylists seeking to push the boundaries of creativity. Speaking exclusively to Creative HEAD, Brian shares the inspiration behind his technique, its versatility, and its future in the industry. 

The splicing technique was born from his desire to bring more depth and dimension and create a metallic feel. “As colourists, we work with slices every day,” Brian explains. “But I wanted more of an iridescent feel to these pieces.” This led him to experiment with the direction of the slices. After bleaching, he takes each section and splices it in the opposite direction, creating a stunning metallic effect. 

While splicing may seem similar to traditional slicing at first, the technique introduces a subtle but significant shift in execution. “Splicing gives you the ability to add harmonious or clashing colours quickly and efficiently,” Brian says. It’s not drastically different from traditional methods, but it does offer a unique twist—literally. 

Halley Brisker

Brian Leo McCallum

By altering the direction in which slices are made, stylists can create a more dynamic and customised look. This technique enhances the colouring process by allowing for more precise colour placement, which can result in a variety of visual effects, from subtle blends to bold contrasts. This flexibility makes splicing an invaluable tool for any stylist looking to push the boundaries of traditional hair colouring. 

The technique uses a range of high-quality products to achieve its unique results. Pictured below, Brian used Goldwell Elumen to create vibrant greens, Goldwell Topchic for striking silvers, and Goldwell Colorance for a rich rust orange hue. By splicing sections in different directions, these colours can either harmonise or contrast, depending on the desired effect. The result is a look that is both bold and sophisticated, with a depth that catches the light in a way traditional techniques cannot. 

One of the key benefits of the splicing technique is its versatility. “It can be used on all hair types,” he notes. Like any new technique, splicing comes with its own set of challenges. According to Brian, the biggest hurdle is speed. “The primary challenge for stylists learning the technique is speed,” he admits. “However, like any skill, practice leads to improvement. With a few attempts, stylists of all levels find it becomes easy to master.”  

“Splicing enhances the colouring process by allowing stylists to be more creative with colour placement. For clients, it promotes a more individualised and bespoke colour service.”

As hair trends continue to evolve, so too will the applications of the splicing technique. Brian originally developed splicing for creative looks in photo shoots, but it has since found a place in commercial salon work. “The possibilities are endless,” he says. As more stylists begin to experiment with splicing, it is likely to become a staple in the industry, offering new ways to bring depth, dimension, and individuality to hair colour. 

“I Truly Believe That The Trevor Sorbie Brand Is In The Best Hands” – Trevor Sorbie Talks Lasting Legacies And Stand-out Looks With Giuseppe Stelitano

“I Truly Believe That The Trevor Sorbie Brand Is In The Best Hands” – Trevor Sorbie Talks Lasting Legacies And Stand-out Looks With Giuseppe Stelitano

“I Truly Believe That The Trevor Sorbie Brand Is In The Best Hands” – Trevor Sorbie Talks Lasting Legacies And Stand-out Looks With Giuseppe Stelitano

Industry tastemakers Trevor Sorbie and Giuseppe Stelitano reflect on each other’s greatest work as they celebrate 45 years of the Covent Garden location.

Laura Chadwick
Trevor with Giuseppe at the LCT Grand Final

An industry icon and a visionary rising through the ranks – together Trevor Sorbie and Giuseppe Stelitano make quite the powerhouse pairing, sending the success of the Trevor Sorbie brand stratospheric in recent years. Most recently, Giuseppe was the creative genius behind one of the epic hair shows at the L’Oréal Colour Trophy UK Grand Final, and as the brand celebrates its 45th anniversary, it’s never been more apparent that the future is very bright.  

Talking exclusively to Creative HEAD, Trevor and Giuseppe discuss what keeps their creative fires alight…

What is your favourite image that each other has created and why?

work from the Trevor Sorbie archive
Giuseppe’s favourite look created by Trevor. The image has never been published!
Giuseppe: There are countless looks that Trevor has created that are amazing but if I had to choose, I’d say that my favourite look is the one from back in the ’80s. It’s a striking black-and-white image that combines intricate curls with electronic elements, creating a contrast between organic and mechanical. It’s futuristic yet timeless, and it perfectly showcases Trevor’s genius, forward-thinking vision. This look continues to inspire me and reminds me why Trevor is such an icon in our industry.  
work by Giuseppe
Trevor’s favourite look created by Giuseppe.
Trevor: I think this look from Giuseppe is brilliant. It’s a unique way of photographing hair. It’s mystique, it’s got drama, and the angle of the photograph is unlike any photo I’ve seen. Of course, I’m also very proud of Giuseppe’s latest campaign, 1979. 

Trevor: I think this look from Giuseppe is brilliant. It’s a unique way of photographing hair. It’s mystique, it’s got drama, and the angle of the photograph is unlike any photo I’ve seen. Of course, I’m also very proud of Giuseppe’s latest campaign, 1979.

What do you believe makes a great image? 

G: To me, a great image tells a story and evokes an emotional response. It’s not just about the technical perfection but about capturing a moment. Lighting, set, make-up, styling and the subject all play crucial roles, but the magic happens when these elements come together to create something that feels truly authentic and fresh. 

T: I think the same as Giuseppe, it’s a combination of all elements, as well including the model, hair, photography and make-up also coming together in perfect harmony, which is very rare to get all those elements exactly right. When a picture comes together like that, that’s when you can say you’ve got the wow factor. 

Images from the 1979 collection

When selecting the shots from your collection or creative work, what extra ‘wow factor’ helps you decide what makes the cut?

G: For me it is when I see a shot that makes me stop in my tracks. It’s that instant connection, where everything comes together perfectly…the hair, the model’s expression, the lighting. I look for an image that not only showcases technical skills but is also unique and offers something interesting. It’s that one shot that you know will leave a lasting impression 

T: Like the last answer really. You know it when you see it. It must give you an emotion that triggers something in your head. I think to create a good collection, the photographer (and especially the photographer!) must be on the same page as you. It’s got to excite them. When you get that from the photographer, that’s when you know they’ll give it 100 per cent because they are excited.

What are your hopes for the Trevor Sorbie brand in the next 25 years?

G: Looking ahead, I hope to see the Trevor Sorbie brand continue to lead the industry. I picture us expanding our global presence, pioneering trends, and setting new standards in hairstyling. My dream is for us to keep inspiring both our guests and the next generation of hairdressers. I want us to continue breaking boundaries and thinking outside the box, but always keeping in mind our core brand values. 

T:  The team I’ve grown are the best placed to take the brand forward, continue the legacy that I built, and I truly believe that the Trevor Sorbie brand is in the best hands.  I know we will see the brand continue to thrive and grow. I’ve set up my team to carry forward our vision and values, ensuring the brand remains at the forefront of the industry. I am confident that the Trevor Sorbie name will endure and inspire future generations. 

The making of the 1979 campaign

What is your favourite aspect of working together, and what makes your working dynamic so special?

G: My favourite aspect of working together is the combination of trust and respect that we have for each other. Although I might have Trevor’s blessing to lead the brand creatively, I’m always asking him for his advice or opinion.  

T: As Giuseppe said, it’s the connection we have. When you get the right connection, you can bounce ideas back and forth – one person can excite the other and vice versa. When I chose Giuseppe as our creative director, I saw a lot of myself in him. At first, I had to hold his hand to show him the ropes but within a few months, I let him fly. He had it perfectly in line with my mind. It’s that old fashion saying that ‘great minds think alike’, and that’s me and Giuseppe.

45 years is a fantastic anniversary for the Covent Garden salon! What do you consider to be the secret to your long-term success? 

T: I can sum up the answer in two words: discipline and consistency. Anyone who has worked for me will know that when people come to work for me, it’s like joining the army. I break down the way they think and build them back up, and they become one of us. They love my philosophy because it is very simple: I truly care about my staff. I believe our product is our staff.

How has the Trevor Sorbie brand evolved during your time with the company, and what excites you most about working for Trevor Sorbie right now? 

G: During my time at Trevor Sorbie, I’ve seen the brand grow in ways that I couldn’t have imagined. We’ve embraced change and adapted ourselves to a much more current world while staying true to the quality and creativity that Trevor Sorbie is known for. What excites me most about working for Trevor Sorbie right now is our ongoing commitment to innovation and excellence. This dedication to staying ahead of the game and constantly evolving makes every day engaging and keeps my enthusiasm for the work alive. 


Creative Direction: Giuseppe Stelitano @giuseppebstelitano
Photography and lighting: Barney Arthur @barneyarthurphoto
Videographer: Giovanni Musumeci @giovannimusumecixx
Styling: Douglas Miller @douglaswamiller
Make-up: Lauren Webster @laurenwebstr
Photography assistant: Alex Wilson @alexwilsonstudio
Styling assistant: Ella McKiernan @ellamckiernan
Videographer BTS: Luke Erwood @luke_erwood
Hair team: Tiziana Di Marcelli, Ryan Forsythe, Nathan Walker, Bree Davie, Ben Bradley, Esti Carton, Giuseppe Di Rosa, Edoardo Colasanti, Ila Capi 
1979 track: ‘Tubedigga’ @tubedigga
Location: Wayne McGregor @studiowaynemcgregor

“YouTube Has Opened Doors For Me, Which I Didn’t Realise Could Open” – Paul Watts On Using Youtube To Grow Your Brand’s Online Engagement

“YouTube Has Opened Doors For Me, Which I Didn’t Realise Could Open” – Paul Watts On Using Youtube To Grow Your Brand’s Online Engagement

“YouTube Has Opened Doors For Me, Which I Didn’t Realise Could Open” – Paul Watts On Using Youtube To Grow Your Brand’s Online Engagement

Weeding through social media trends and finding an engaged audience can be a challenge for businesses, shifting your efforts to Youtube can help.

By Caitlyn | Business, Profiles

Halley Brisker

In the bustling world of social media, where Instagram and TikTok reign supreme for many, hairdressers may find themselves pouring into social media content that doesn’t necessarily translate into clientele. Paul Watts, a YouTube hair educator, Joico artist, and hairdresser, sheds light on this phenomenon, highlighting a crucial yet often overlooked portion of the social media landscape, YouTube.  

“For me, it’s crazy to see my fellow industry professionals devote their time to platforms that don’t give you a source of income. The amount of immense talent and effort that hairdressers feed into the social media game is unbelievable. They believe this is their opportunity to turn themselves into a business, but all that time they spend isn’t free – they’re sacrificing something.”  

Social media platforms like Instagram and TikTok can indeed enhance visibility and help build a brand. However, Watts highlights a critical drawback: “when scrolling on Instagram and TikTok, my feed is swamped with creators copying one another and when you don’t get results that you want, that’s when anxiety starts to creep in. That’s the problem with trends – they’re a trend for a reason. Once everyone starts doing it, it’s easy to get lost in a sea of carbon copies.”  

This is where YouTube presents a compelling alternative. Unlike its counterparts, YouTube thrives on delivering value through educational content rather than transient trends. “YouTube isn’t about showing off what you have – it’s all about what you can offer and how you can help others to grow and develop their skills,” Watts explains. This focus on high-quality, free education allows hairdressers to create content that builds and nurtures a community of engaged viewers. 

“YouTube is the leading source of free high-quality education, which can help you to build and grow communities of like-minded individuals.”

“After joining the platform in 2020, I have amassed over 180k followers and over 28 million views. Having this audience has allowed me to share cutting and colouring tutorials, providing my subscribers with the highest quality education and industry secrets about cutting techniques, colouring, toning, bleaching, and styling. The monetisation of YouTube helped my business to recover from COVID quicker, and even helped to cover the costs of renovating my salon! YouTube has opened doors for me, which I didn’t realise could open. 

As an educator, Watts sees vast potential in YouTube’s format: “Whether you want to be a hair agony aunt, a trend reporter, a step-by-step stylist, or something else – the opportunities are endless.” YouTube offers a platform where content creators can establish themselves as authorities in their field without falling prey to the “follow for follow” culture prevalent on other social media sites. 

Watts is candid about the challenges faced by those who feel obligated to participate in the overwhelming trend-forward culture of Instagram and TikTok. “I’m tired of hearing so many fellow industry professionals complaining about Instagram and TikTok and the toxic social media culture that has overcome our industry,” he says. “But they all say the same thing to me – ‘I have to do it for the brand.’ You absolutely do not!” 

YouTube is a complete safe space without the follow for follow merry go round. People subscribe to your channel because they are genuinely interested in what you do.” 

YouTube offers a more relaxed approach to social media, with the added benefit of monetization opportunities. Watts himself has experienced significant benefits from his YouTube channel, including a global audience and lucrative collaborations with international brands. 

If you’re considering making the leap from other social media platforms to YouTube, now is an opportune moment. Watts encourages hair professionals to take advantage of the platform’s potential: “You’re not behind if you begin your YouTube journey now. You’ll be ahead of the industry, as even the big corporates haven’t got it sussed out yet.”

If you are looking to make this shift, Watts’ channel is the perfect starting point. Dive into his content to learn the ins and outs of effectively building your presence on YouTube. With expert insights on launching and growing a successful YouTube channel, his content is tailored specifically for busy hair professionals looking to elevate their brand.

Check out Paul Watts on Youtube here: https://www.youtube.com/@PaulWattsHair

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What You Need to Know on… Branding

What You Need to Know on… Branding

What You Need to Know on… Branding

Maintaining a good brand takes thought and work, as does repairing a damaged one

by Amanda |  BUSINESS, FREELANCE

Unsplash/Austin Chan

What’s in a brand? Your business story as well as your reputation, for starters. Digital expert Harvey Morton offers some pearls of wisdom for getting going. “Conduct thorough market research to gain insights into your potential customers’ demographics, preferences, and behaviour patterns. Identify their pain points, needs, and aspirations.” Just don’t forget your competitors, he warns. “Explore their services, marketing techniques, pricing strategies and customer feedback,” he continues. “By understanding your target audience and competitors, you can position your brand effectively and create unique value.”

The early stages of brand building clearly require lots of research, but what about the more creative part? According to Hellen Ward, co-founder of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa, the narrative matters. “When creating a new brand, you need to think about the story, the provenance. People need to quickly and easily identify what the brand values are, and what it stands for.” For growing an existing brand, Hellen advises to “identify the strengths, the core USP and go sniper with marketing, not scattergun.” Communicate what makes you stand out. “Market to your target customers and scream your points of difference, whether it’s the team, length of service, expertise, or luxury environment,” she adds.

Unsplash/ Vitaly Gariev

“Focus on building strong relationships with your customers through personalised experiences,” adds financial expert Garry Hemming. “Implement data-driven marketing strategies to better understand them and tailor the messaging and offerings to their needs. Leverage social media and content marketing to engage with your audience and showcase your brand’s personality and expertise.”

Partnerships and collaborations are another route as they “can help expand your brand’s reach”. This includes “complementary brands or influencers who align with your values and target audience”. This, he concludes, can help you “tap into new markets and build credibility for your brand”.

While it’s motivating to brainstorm and think about your goals, including the reasons for doing what you do, part of the brand journey is also about knowing how to respond when your brand is damaged. For Tom Skinner, managing director of digital marketing agency, Go Up, it’s important to apologise with sincerity, he advises. “Cut the business speak and imagine you’re talking to your own grandmother. So rather than ‘we’re sorry if some people misunderstood our Instagram post and were offended’, it should be ‘we’re sorry about our Instagram post’. Customers need to know you’re real. You’ll be surprised what can be rescued.”

Unsplash/Syahrir Maulana

However, simply saying sorry isn’t enough. “Prove you’ve changed,” Tom adds. “Demonstrate tangible improvement and a willingness to move past previous mistakes. Don’t just tell me you’ve fixed the car — take me for a drive.”

Sometimes, the extent of brand damage can mean that a rebrand is needed. Here, Garry has some pointers. “A fresh look and feel can symbolise a new beginning and signal a commitment to positive change. Be sure to involve your target audience in this process to gather their input and feedback.” However, a makeover on its own won’t guarantee customer support. “Consistency is key to regain trust,” he explains. “Ensure that all marketing materials and customer touchpoints are aligned with the renewed brand identity and messaging. Consider ongoing reputation management efforts to monitor and address negative sentiment and maintain a positive online presence.”

Is “Not Accepting New Clients” A Badge Of Honour Or A Death Sentence?

Is “Not Accepting New Clients” A Badge Of Honour Or A Death Sentence?

Is “Not Accepting New Clients” A Badge Of Honour Or A Death Sentence?

Seen the immortal statement featured in stylists’ social media bios? It List 2024 finalist, Frazer Wallace, questions whether closing yourself off to new clients is the right way to approach business

Look on a busy independent stylist’s social media bio, and you might spot the words ‘not accepting new clients’. I’d first noticed this statement being a ‘thing’ in the US, especially for those with 10,000+ followers. As a UK-based stylist, I’m now seeing this crop up more here, with so many stylists producing beautiful work but not letting anyone new book in.

If you’re booked out six months in advance then I understand that having lots of people message or call to get you might be annoying. But why close yourself off to meeting new people and being inspired by new ideas? I think this is new badge of honour, similar to a ‘blue tick’. Yet I feel it’s becoming more negative than positive.

I had this ‘not accepting new clients’ statement in my Instagram bio for a time. I was travelling a lot, and I’d cut down my days in the salon so I couldn’t fit any more guests in. Five months of incredible business then… quiet. Ooh, scary, right? Yes, it was! I couldn’t understand why I had one or two weeks of maybe a single client a day, then after that they’d be back-to-back. Well, it’s because I had ‘not accepting new clients’ in my bio. I had also told my clients that I wasn’t accepting new guests either, so guess what? They stopped recommending me to their friends.

This badge of honour, which was just an ego boost in all honesty, became a real problem. When I wanted to meet new clients, I couldn’t. Instead, I welcome new clients now but with an explanation that there will be a wait time until their first appointment. This way I’m not closing off any potential new clientele, and when I post some unexpected availability (everyone gets it now and again) there are people waiting to fill the spaces… and possibly become lifelong customers.

My point is: don’t fall for it. It’s not inviting to have a big fat ‘no’ on your page. Your social media gathers income. Keep your books open to ensure you stay inspired and to welcome anyone who could replace the person who may just replace you when someone new and cool comes along. There is business around for everyone, but don’t close yourself off to it just to feel important. It’s not worth it. And as a business owner, if I was interviewing someone who had this in their own bio, I wouldn’t take them on. It gives off Big Ego Energy.

We all know that social media brings in the money. Don’t let this stop you from making good money behind the chair that you’ve worked so hard to get busy in.

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‘Manifesto’ by Felicitas Hair

‘Manifesto’ by Felicitas Hair

'Manifesto' by Felicitas Hair

Hair:  Felicitas Hair
Photography and Retouching: Esteban Roca
Make-up: Kuki Giménez Agency
Styling: Visori FashionArt
Models: Shock Models
Products: Revlon Professional

 

 

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