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“We Know We Can Rely On Our Future Workforce”

“We Know We Can Rely On Our Future Workforce”

“We Know We Can Rely On Our Future Workforce”

Why Hooker & Young have always invested in apprentices

by CATHERINE | DOCUMENTS

“We Have Always Invested In Apprentices” – Michael Young, Co-Owner, Hooker & Young, Newcastle-Upon-Tyne

Victoria Lynch

Michael Young

“The Hooker & Young group consists of four very busy salons located across the North-East, and I’m proud to say that apart from a couple of exceptions, every single one of our 55 stylists started as an apprentice with us.  

“We have always invested in apprentices to assist our stylists, right from when we opened our first salon 30 years ago. Over those three decades, our apprenticeship programme has built real momentum within the business because we know we can rely on our future workforce. What’s more, it means that every single apprentice who goes on to the salon floor understands the Hooker & Young ethos and what is required of them. That is so valuable.  

“Hooker & Young is about luxury hairdressing, and we charge prices to match. Our clientele is well-heeled, very demanding and expects a five-star experience, like they get in the restaurants they frequent. They notice the details.  

“Just like in those restaurants, where you’ll often have one waiter for every table, we have an assistant supporting every stylist. That’s crucial, because it allows a stylist to move easily between multiple clients, knowing that each client is being well looked after by the assistant in between.

If it wasn’t for the assistants, the stylist would need to stay with the same client for the duration of their appointment, and that is obviously very limiting. 

“Assistants not only allow us to deliver the levels of service we want, they are a crucial part of the process that brings extra revenue into the business. Thanks to our assistants we never have to turn clients away and that means our salons continue to grow. The way we look at it, our apprentices and assistants are as important as anyone on the salon floor.” 

“The Salon Is Where I Do All My Learning” – Amelia Richardson, Apprentice, Hooker & Young, Newcastle-Upon-Tyne 

Amelia Richardson

Amelia Richardson

“When I left school I already knew I wanted to be a hairdresser, but I was pushed into doing A-Levels at Sixth Form College. I left after a few months because it wasn’t for me. I really did want to do hairdressing! 

“I chose to do an apprenticeship because I like to be in the workplace. Hooker & Young responded to my CV, and after an initial taster session in their Jesmond salon, I showed up for my first day at work as their first new starter in eight months.  

“I was very nervous, but because everyone in the team had started out as an apprentice themselves, they knew exactly what they had to show me so I could do my job. By the end of the day I knew where things were kept, how to clean down a styling station, how the salon dynamic worked. I felt so happy. I knew I’d made the right decision.

“Although I spend a day in college every two weeks, the salon is where I do all my learning. You learn from observing the stylists you work with, as well as other apprentices – it’s incredible how a salon works. I love being part of a team, there’s always someone you can talk to, no matter what it is you want to talk about. I look forward to going to work, to see my co-workers.  

“It’s absolutely possible to live on the apprenticeship wage (currently £6.40 per hour). I work 41 hours per week and over the last two years I’ve been able to pay my board, buy a car, get my phone, eat out a couple of times a week and have a decent holiday. The trick is to budget properly – my mum has taught me that. 

“I’m 18 years old and coming to the end of my apprenticeship. In June I’ll be doing my End Point Assessment, which is where an external assessor comes and observes me essentially run my own column for a day. I’m nervous, but I know it’s something everyone in the salon has been through themselves.  

“I see myself spending the next 10 years at least at Hooker & Young. Of course, I dream of owning my own salon one day, but I have seen how people can grow here and how much support they are given – it’s exciting and reassuring all at the same time. I am so glad I chose hairdressing as my career and I am very happy I got to do my apprenticeship at such a great salon.” 

“We Particularly Focus On Consultation”

“We Particularly Focus On Consultation”

“We Particularly Focus On Consultation”

How Tribe Salons ensure their apprentices are salon ready

by AMANDA | DOCUMENTS

“When people are homegrown, understand your way of doing things, and have been with you from the start, they stay for longer” – Elle Foreman, head of education, Tribe Salons, Clapham and Chislehurst

Victoria Lynch

Elle Forman

“We’re a family run business with two salons – in Clapham and Chislehurst – and we’ve always kept things quite small so we can be personal and people orientated. We have a very diverse clientele across both salons, aged from 16 up to 92, all different hair textures and hair types. The salon is priced more towards the higher end, as we’re an Aveda salon. That means we have a high standard to maintain. 

“We’ve always offered apprenticeships, we need to bring new talent through, that they’re able to learn on a daily basis. We have seven now, and probably about 50 per cent of the teams across both salons started with us as apprentices. It’s so hard to recruit nowadays, especially in London. When people are homegrown, understand your way of doing things, and have been with you from the start, they stay for longer.  

“While apprentices are doing their NVQ, they train within the salon, learning alongside the stylists on the job. However, after their EPA, their training goes further with us. Every Tuesday, I have all the newly qualified assistants, and we book in models for the whole day so that it’s like having a column of clients, and I help them advance their skill set so they’re fully equipped when they hit the shop floor. We particularly focus on consultation. I think it’s something that can be skipped over with an apprenticeship. The focus is on learning the technical skills, but consultation for us is a big one. We make sure our apprentices understand how to talk to people and get the best out them so that they can deliver a confident result.  

We had a period last year where it was quite evident that people were coming into the industry thinking it would be an easy route, but then quickly realise that to become a hairdresser, and you must do lots of training. We’ve changed our recruitment process, adapting the questions to try and filter out the ones that aren’t doing it for the right reasons. 

Tripe Clapham

Tribe Clapham

“I really like the social side, all the different personalities” – Hannah Robinson, Apprentice, Tribe Salons, Clapham and Chislehurst 

Amelia Richardson

Hannah Robinson

“I wasn’t too sure about what I wanted to do it first. I looked at apprenticeships in law and mechanics, but I opted for hairdressing. I’m coming into my second full year. I go to college every Monday, and then Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturdays I’m in the salon.  

“I wasn’t too keen on it first, but I’ve really grown to like it. I find it fun and interesting. Even if I continue this for the next 10 or so years and then change, I will always have this skill. I thought it would be quite easy, and then once I started doing it, there was a lot of standing, cleaning and tidying, but I realised there’s a lot I could learn while I’m doing it. It all started to click for me after my first Christmas – I was doing more in the salon, getting involved with more clients and enjoying it more. 

“I enjoy doing colour, but I think I’m more of a cutting stylist. Once I start talking to a client, and get to know them a bit, that’s what I really enjoy. I really like the social side, all the different personalities. 

“I’ll probably do my EPA next year, so I’m fully prepared. I might like my own salon one day, but I’m not much of a business type. I think I’d rather go into the events side, special occasion hair, weddings and Fashion Week.

“I really enjoy working as part of a team. I can get help from everybody else when I don’t understand something, or if I need help with a client or doing a certain job. I feel I can rely on everybody else around me to help me with that.” 

“I can’t Imagine A World In Which I Would Have A Salon And Not Have An Apprentice”

“I can’t Imagine A World In Which I Would Have A Salon And Not Have An Apprentice”

“I can’t Imagine A World In Which I Would Have A Salon And Not Have An Apprentice”

Stripe Colour Studio on why more salons need to invest in the next generation  

by KELSEY | DOCUMENTS

“Do you care what happens to the future of hairdressing? If you do, then you need to take apprentices on. It can’t just be every man for himself” – Nancy Stripe, owner of Stripe Colour Studio, Handforth 

Victoria Lynch

Nancy Stripe

“I can’t imagine a world in which I would have a salon and not have an apprentice. The two go hand in hand, and as a salon owner, it frees you to do so much more for your own business.  

“My job is not an everyday nine-to-five job – I do lots of different things outside of the salon and I can’t work the way I do without them. Zoe is now a graduate stylist and Kitty will be completing her apprenticeship this year, so I’ve always got to be thinking, ‘Where would I be this time next year if either of them left? What would happen?’ With them on the team, I can do more teaching and go to places I need to go. Apprentices are the most important people in the salon.  

“I also like to bring them along to events and education as much as possible. I want to get them involved in things they find exciting because hairdressing is not an average job and there are so many avenues you can go down. When I went to London earlier this month, Kitty came with me and was my right hand while I was teaching. I want to show them that to curate your dream job with your dream clientele, this is where it starts. 

“Salons need to show their apprentices what’s next. If you have some fun projects happening or things that aren’t necessarily everyday appointments, bring apprentices into the fold and allow them to be part of it. That, in turn, gives them a better view of what their career can be.  

“It baffles me that everybody’s just thinking for themselves now. Do you care what happens to the future of hairdressing? If you do, then you need to take apprentices on. It can’t just be every man for himself.” 

Tripe Clapham

Zoe and Kitty working hard at Stripe Colour Studio

“To do a hairdressing apprenticeship, you’ve got to really want to do it. You can’t be 50/50 about it” – Zoe Mcgruer, Graduate Stylist, Stripe Colour Studio, Handforth  

Victoria Lynch

Zoe Mcgruer

“My mum is a hairdresser, so it’s something I’ve always considered doing for my career. I enjoyed doing all my friends’ hair, but I qualified as a nail technician first before deciding on this industry. It made me realise that I wanted to give hairdressing a go, so I came and worked for Nancy. 

“In this area, there’s no other salon like us – no other space specialises in colour and grey blending, so I knew it was the right choice to work at Stripe. Everyone is so supportive in the team, and watching how everyone does things differently has made the experience so enjoyable.  

“I’m newly qualified, and I’m still learning from Nancy as I go. If you’re not sure about something, just say how you feel. Be honest and say this isn’t working for me. If everyone’s honest with each other, you can move forward. There are no bad feelings. No one takes it personally.  

“Finding a really good boss – someone who actually cares about you – is so important. Nancy doesn’t just care about how we are at work, but also outside of work; she always checks up on us. She looks out for us and I think you need that. It’s good to have guidance from someone experienced to support you with going in the right direction.

“To do a hairdressing apprenticeship, you’ve got to really want to do it. You can’t be 50/50 about it it’s a job that you’ve got to give 110 per cent in no matter what, because it is not an easy job to be doing. My advice is to find somewhere that suits you – don’t just stick it out if it’s not working.” 

Nancy with Zoe and Kitty

“It’s been one of the most positive journeys of my life, and I can’t take anything bad away from it” – Kitty Dyson, Apprentice, Stripe Colour Studio, Handforth 

Kitty Dyson

“I’m really happy with how I’m progressing through my apprenticeship. I can’t believe how fast the two years have gone and how fast I’ve learned everything. It’s been one of the most positive journeys of my life, and I couldn’t take anything bad away from it. 

“My grandma was a hairdresser, so I grew up around it. I used to go to work with her if my parents couldn’t look after me, so I’d go and help her by passing the perm papers. I was always around it and hairdressing has always interested me. It’s the atmosphere of the salon that I love the most – we’re all in it together. It doesn’t matter what has happened before I arrive, I know we’re still going to have a nice day together. 

“I’m with Nancy pretty much all day, so I’m by her side learning all the time. It could be watching a certain placement of the foils or a technique or product being used. I learn the why behind it and ask the questions that needed to be asked. I try to absorb as much knowledge as I can.  

“While the first year was a slower pace, the second year has ramped up. Now, I will help Nancy with root shadows or blow-dries when she is back-to-back with clients. You can’t expect to be doing a set of highlights after a month of training; you need to be realistic with your expectations, but bit by bit, the pieces will all come together.”  

“People love beauty. That makes me happy, to know that so many people are being impacted” – Ali Pirzadeh on the power of hair

“People love beauty. That makes me happy, to know that so many people are being impacted” – Ali Pirzadeh on the power of hair

0{{current_slide_index}}/0{{total_slide_count}} ALI PIRZADEH [The Power Of Hair] View photos

“People Love Beauty. That Makes Me Happy, To Know That So Many People Are Being Impacted” – Ali Pirzadeh On The Power Of Hair

2024 Most Wanted Session Stylist Ali Pirzadeh talks about his heritage, creating compelling narratives through hair and why routine keeps him grounded

by EMMA | DOCUMENTS

Photography by Harry Carr Revue

Ali Pirzadeh

Ali Pirzadeh is a session scene luminary. A styler, twister, shaper and sculptor, his hair work amplifies fashion shows and campaigns, creating a dynamic interplay between the clothes’ texture and the hair’s fabric.

And this talent has been woven into an impressive multi-award-winning career spanning nearly three decades, during which time he has crafted a captivating portfolio. Most recently, he took home the Session Stylist trophy at Creative HEAD’s Most Wanted awards. And for good reason. He was also celebrated in The BOF (Business of Fashion) 500 in 2022, a collection of people shaping the global fashion industry, curated by the brand editors and based on nominations and global on-the- ground intel.

This global appeal – and his multicultural approach to hair – can be traced back to his roots. Born in Tehran, his family moved to Sweden when he was four years old, finding a safe space for him and his sister to grow up (more on that later). His home life clearly shaped his cross-cultural identity, reflected in the diversity of his hair creations and campaigns. Forty years later, he’s recognised for embracing all textures at all times, which has positioned him firmly at the epicentre of the hair and fashion industries, exciting and delighting as he goes.

Ali Pirzadeh

Ali Pirzadeh is a session scene luminary. A styler, twister, shaper and sculptor, his hair work amplifies fashion shows and campaigns, creating a dynamic interplay between the clothes’ texture and the hair’s fabric.

And this talent has been woven into an impressive multi-award-winning career spanning nearly three decades, during which time he has crafted a captivating portfolio. Most recently, he took home the Session Stylist trophy at Creative HEAD’s Most Wanted awards. And for good reason. He was also celebrated in The BOF (Business of Fashion) 500 in 2022, a collection of people shaping the global fashion industry, curated by the brand editors and based on nominations and global on-the- ground intel.

 

British Vogue, Photography by Felicity Ingram

Where The Heart Is

Down-to-earth, hes the creative conduit behind the key hair looks of the season, a fashion facilitator. The stealth master of hair ceremony who knows his worth but is humble about it. And while session arguably takes a back seat to fashion (designers take a bow, post-show, not the hair tailors), hes unfazed. His focus is fully entrenched in concept and creation. The secret, perhaps, is that Ali loves his life. All of it. Hes clear on boundaries (my work studio is in our garden, so I dont confuse work and home) and has a deep desire to create, mixing with like-minded friends who want to develop concepts just for usas much as he wants to create heart-fluttering campaigns for the bigwigs and fashion cognoscenti – Alexander McQueen, Nina Ricci and Louis Vuitton, to name just a few.

His jam-packed schedule is not for the faint-hearted. When we speak, hes just home from Paris and followed by Stockholm to shoot a big fashion campaign. Now hes gearing up for a new project back in Paris before a shoot with the iconic photographer, Tim Walker. Its hectic. Im always all over the place. Life is exciting but I need balance in-between. Im always happy to be home,” he admits. 

“I believe you get led in a direction. I loved looking at magazines but didn’t know session styling was a thing. It still feels surreal”

Home is the space he shares with his partner of 13 years in Dalston. A fine art photographer, Ali credits him with possessing a calm manner that allows him to flourish creatively, without overwhelm. Alongside his partners support, Ali reveals small details that allow him to think bigger and create better. Structure, discipline, rituals and routine all ensure he can stick to his schedule of sometimes 19-hour days and rollercoaster rosters of shoots and shows. I love routine, having my oat latte in the morning, working out, those things are important to me,” he confides. While London is now his home, he says moving from Iran to Sweden was very Sliding Doors.’ “That single decision altered so much in our lives. We were the first wave of immigrants from Iran, and Sweden was very welcoming. It was an idyllic place to grow up.”

However, standing out from the crowd meant he was teased about his heritage. A year-long stint in Italy (I lived in Rome for a while and had a taste of blending in a little), was nothing compared to the inclusivity he feels in London. Home can mean so many different things, but London is my happy place. Its where I feel I belong.”

Rogue Fashion Book, Photography by Felicity Ingram

His CV reads like a Whos Who of the fashion world, something he’s grateful for, given the journey to feeling this sense of belonging. My dad wanted me to study economics, so I played along. It wasnt right for me,” he recalls. His sisters job as a hairdresser shone a spotlight on the creative career he craved. Growing up, I always played with dolls. I cut their hair and put bows on them. As soon as I started hairdressing, I was super happy.”

At 15 he became an apprentice in a Stockholm salon looking after socialites and well-heeled clients. Working five-to-six days a week meant that when he started hair school, he was already on a roll: I knew how to root colour, to blow-dry. I studied hair for three years working every day after school. I felt very much at home. Coming from a place where I had felt like a bad student into one of being nurtured was wonderful.” 

After renting a chair (I had my little clique of clients two years in by that time), he opened a salon in Stockholm with his sister and a friend. Our make-up artist friend brought models into the salon, and I did their hair. Massive baroque styles. There was no other intent back then apart from I wanted to do it.” When his friend showed her agent his work, Ali began assisting. Within six months, he was signed by her agency. I believe you get led in a direction. I loved looking at magazines but didnt know session styling was a thing. It still feels surreal. I feel very lucky.” Now session is Alis way of sculpting and connecting while amplifying his ideas. Hair is a material you can shape. It tells you where it wants to go or what it wants to do. I love what I do. The finished result in a magazine can awaken emotions in people as it did for me when I was younger.” 

Vogue Scandinavia, Photography by Marc Hibbert

In It To Win It

Cut to 2012, and Ali won ELLE Swedens Best Hairstylist of the Year, scooping the title again in 2016. Most recently, he was named 2024 Most Wanted Session Stylist. Winning meant everything to me. I couldnt believe it. Everyone nominated is so talented,” he says. Working in Hong Kong, he found waking up to the news he had won rather surreal: I was at breakfast in complete shock. It means people appreciate the voice I put out there. That is a truly wonderful thing.”

While clearly at the top of his game, his hair story is one of hard graft and tenacity. I always wanted something more, so I made sure I did show season. I made sure I assisted smaller shows. I networked, worked on fashion weeks and got to know agents.” He also recognises those who helped him on his journey, including Swedish photographer Camilla Akrans. I started working with her on campaigns, and she began putting my name out in those arenas. She played a big part in my access across the pond.” 

He also cites the late Alexander McQueen as a huge inspiration in fashion design: He was raw, creative, authentic. He made an impact. He had no boundaries. His work still blows my mind.” Tim Walker is also a firm favourite, with their collaborative work appearing on the covers of Vogue Mexico (December 2021) and British Vogue (July 2023), among countless others (the latter capturing a shimmering army of LGBTQ+ pioneers sharing stories of style and self-discovery). His images have so much emotion and expression,” he says. Calling their first collaboration a pivotal moment, Ali loves the fluidity of their work. Hes so inspiring, so open to my ideas. He will ask: ‘How do YOU see this narrative come to life?I still cant believe Im lucky enough to work with him.”

Perfect Magazine, Photography by Rafael Pavarotti

Go With The Flow

His 2025 diary is already packed, with the routines and pillars, such as Fashion Week, essential elements to keeping him balanced. People are shocked at my schedule, they dont believe I can start at 5.30 am and finish at 11 pm. Hair work will exhaust you, so its important to keep a routine. You must keep taking care of yourself.” While theres no typical day, its guaranteed to be organised. The one constant is Im up between 5am and 6am. Theres a lot of prep work to what we do. A huge amount of unpacking and repacking. I always try to be two steps ahead.”

When it comes to Fashion Week, how does he get through the gruelling schedules? Teamwork. Im doing the work, but I couldnt succeed without such a strong network. You need that support. Everything has a process and we give a lot emotionally and mentally, so anything that makes it flow a little easier is a huge help.” Currently on the books at Streeters, his agent, Gary, is part of this support network. It feels like someone constantly has your back. Its a meaningful friendship.” 

While teamwork is a clear marker of what he loves about the session world Its great to feel part of something bigger than you” – is there anything about the industry he wishes he could change? Im sad that print media has taken a back seat to the culture of social media,” he says. As a creator, it saddens me. I take a lot of pride in concepts and ideas. Im excited when a project comes out, but social media means its gone so fast. Its a machine. We need to stop scrolling and take a minute.” However, he recognises that art can still ignite and excite, even on social. People love beauty. That makes me happy, to know that so many people are being impacted and we are making an impression.”

Replica Man Magazine, Photography by Iñigo Awewave

At 44 years old and with the session world at his fashionable feet, what advice would he give his younger self? I was very bullied growing up, and after what I went through, I would say: You will be more than okay. Trust in yourself and trust in your voice. You are valid.” With his roots firmly entrenched in London, he says hes happy to live and work in environments where he feels accepted: We are in such a good place with inclusivity. As a gay man, I feel very lucky to be in an industry thats open and welcoming. I feel extremely safe in this world.”

It seems as though he’s where hes meant to be. He knows who he is and what he can bring to the campaign table. The underlying truth is that he cares. He understands what hes capable of, and hes not afraid to create it. He can always see his vision in a crowded space, creating and illuminating as he goes. Bravo.

From Passion to Possibilities

From Passion to Possibilities

From Passion to Possibilities

How Wella’s Passionistas programme inspires, educates and elevates freelancer, Heather Robertson

by CAITLYN | EXPLORE

For Heather, hairdressing has always been more than a job – it’s her greatest passion. With over 20 years working in the industry and eight as a freelancer, Heather has built a career around bridal styling, luxury home salon services and education. But going solo wasn’t just about independence; it was about embracing opportunities that aligned with her love for learning, creating, and inspiring others. 

“I love being my own boss,” she reflects. “I laugh at myself because I say I have the freedom to come and go as I please, but when you’re self-employed, you tend to work way more than you ever would if you were employed. Still, the passion is there because you’re working for your own brand.” 

This passion for hairdressing is what keeps Heather motivated. “I’ve always believed in making people feel like the best version of themselves,” she shares. “Whether it’s a bride on her wedding day or a client in my salon, that’s what drives me.” 

Passion Turned Passionista  

Her journey has been enriched by the Wella Passionistas programme, which she joined during lockdown and credits as a source of inspiration and growth. “I think it just became really obvious how much I love Wella as a company and how much I love sharing knowledge with other hairdressers,” Heather explains.  

Her journey into the Passionistas began during lockdown when she went live three times a week, teaching techniques and engaging with fellow stylists. Through these sessions, her expertise and enthusiasm caught Wella’s attention. “I think they just saw how passionate I am about hairdressing and about continuously learning and sharing.” 

“It’s great to be amongst like-minded people,” Heather says. “And naturally, the kind of guidance that Wella gives us as Passionistas – like being the first people to know about new products and innovations – is invaluable. We consistently get updates on what’s trending and how best to showcase our work, which keeps us inspired.” 

“Having the Passionistas group is like a side turn on the road,” she explains. “You might plan to do something with your client, then a box arrives filled with new and exciting products, techniques and ideas. It keeps you inspired.” 

For example, Wella’s new ‘Glass Hair’ technique has been a game-changer for Heather’s bridal clients. “It’s an additional service on top of a colour appointment, and it’s perfect for making their hair look flawless in the lead-up to their wedding. The Wella Professionals products allow me to refine my skills while introducing something new to my clients.” 

Beyond the products, content days and hands-on education have been another major highlight of the initiative. “It’s incredible to be invited to these shoots where we create beautiful images, work with models and really showcase our artistry. For freelancers who don’t have the backing of a big salon, that kind of exposure is amazing.” 

Social Media and Personal Brand 

Social media didn’t just help Heather land a spot in the Passionistas programme, it remains a core part of how she educates and inspires others. 

“The key is to provide value,” she says. “It’s not enough to just post what you’re doing in the salon. If you can share something that helps other stylists – whether it’s a technique, a product review or an insight – that’s what really resonates.” 

Heather uses platforms like Instagram to showcase her work, share tips and build her brand. It’s also where she finds inspiration, saving posts and videos from other educators and hairdressers. “I have a folder of everything that sparks ideas. It’s a mix of things Wella sends through and trends I see online. It helps me stay ahead of the game.” 

Freelancing offers freedom, but Heather emphasises the importance of structure and self-care. “One of the best pieces of advice I ever heard is to take time out to work on your business, not just in it,” she says. “As a freelancer, you’re both the boss and the employee. It’s easy to say yes to everything, but you need to take care of yourself too.” 

 

For Heather, being part of the Wella Passionistas has been a career-defining experience. “It’s not just about being the first to try new products, it’s about being part of something bigger,” she says. “You’re constantly learning, you’re supported by Wella, and you’re part of a community that pushes you to grow.” 

Looking ahead, Heather has no plans of slowing down. She’s continuing to build her education platform, expand her bridal styling expertise and explore new trends through the Wella Passionistas programme. “You could do this job for a million years and still never know everything,” she says. “There’s always something new to learn – and that’s what makes it so exciting.” 

“Quite Frankly, The Manufacturers Have Abandoned This Industry” – Why Boots Was A Step Too Far For Keune Boss Darren Potter

“Quite Frankly, The Manufacturers Have Abandoned This Industry” – Why Boots Was A Step Too Far For Keune Boss Darren Potter

“Quite Frankly, The Manufacturers Have Abandoned This Industry” – Why Boots Was A Step Too Far For Keune Boss Darren Potter

Should pro hair brands cut out the hair pro and sell direct to the consumer? Darren Potter doesn’t think so. Since becoming UK general manager of the Dutch family-owned Keune business three years ago, he’s taken a stance, refusing to put their products into Boots or online beauty shops and declaring that “loyalty to the hair pro is at the heart of everything we do.” And guess what: people are listening…

by CATHERINE | DOCUMENTS

It would be fair to say the word ‘professional’ matters a lot to Darren Potter. He has spent more than 30 years helping professional hair brands understand how to serve and support professional hairdressers and in 2017 resigned from the role of UK general manager at Aveda when parent company Estée Lauder declared they wanted to take it omni-channel. (“I turned round and said, ‘Well, I’m not going to be the leader that does that’.”)  Potter set up his own agency, Refocus, and spent four years working solo, consulting with distributors and helping brands get back on track after the pandemic. By 2021 one of those brands was Keune.

Darren Potter

“I knew of Keune but in my mindset at the time it was a low-end market brand run by wholesalers or distributors,” recalls Potter. “But I had a call with Mr Keune and his son Eelco (who was appointed President on January 1 this year, joining his father George on the Supervisory Board) and I got on really well with them, went over to the Netherlands to look at their operation and did a presentation on why I thought they should be in the UK market. I got as far as slide five when they said, ‘We want you to start’.”

Reassured this was a brand committed to the hair pro for the longterm, Potter threw himself into the role. For the next three years, he worked tirelessly, securing warehouses and offices, creating a flagship salon and training academy, The House of Keune, in central London, signing Andrew Barton and Luke Benson as brand ambassadors and garnering increasing column inches from a fascinated trade press.

It paid off. By the start of 2025, the Keune empire stood at 485 salons in the UK, including Potter’s most prestigious signing of 2024, the six-strong Trevor Sorbie group.

“These manufacturers have left professional hairdressers high and dry by blatantly going direct to the consumer.”

There’s a lot about Keune that ticks modern hairdressing boxes: there’s a collaborative, innovative feel to the brand, the products are high quality and sustainability is a priority. But the key difference that not only sets it apart from its competitors but makes it especially attractive to hairdressers who’ve felt increasingly disillusioned in recent years, is that it’s a family business and it treats its customers like family too. At a time when other brands are cutting back on people and doing everything online, Potter is growing his team and investing in networking events that bring his customers together IRL. “Whatever we do, whatever we put into the market, we ask ourselves if this is benefiting the hairdresser; it’s got to meet that test,” says Potter. “And it’s working. It’s resonating.”

The house that Potter built: the impressive House of Keune in central London acts as a brand focal point

Keune’s commitment to the hair professional is powerful and persuasive, but there is no doubt it was strengthened significantly when in 2023 a handful of major industry bands opted to make their professional products available in high street retailer Boots. Potter was on holiday in France when the news hit but immediately put out an announcement that Keune was 100 per cent loyal to the professional hairdresser, now and forever.

“We just blasted social media with that message, and we got so much positive feedback because it was literally the day after the Boots story broke and people were really angry. And I don’t blame them – all pretence that these brands are committed to the professional was blown out of the water. It’s meant that I’m now speaking to influential people across our industry that I would never have been able to talk to before, because they see that what we’re doing and what we’re offering has integrity and is supporting them to grow their business.”

How to succeed at retail, according to Darren Potter

Don’t just put products on your shelves and hope they sell. Plan seriously.

Decide what percentage of your turnover you want retail to be and reverse engineer back from there. The two key benchmarks I talk to salons about are these: for every 10 clients that come into your salon, I want five of them converting to colour and I want five buying professional haircare. Key to both those things is getting the consultation right because clients who spend on colour will always spend money on products that will protect that colour. Plus, you’ll get more rebookings!

Although his competitors’ actions have benefitted him, Potter is bitter about the impact on the wider industry. It really annoys me,” he says. “These manufacturers have left professional hairdressers high and dry by blatantly going direct to the consumer. They don’t care if that means they lose some business along the way they’ll have built that into their calculations – but by prioritising their shareholders over their supposed brand values, they are causing major problems for our industry at a time when a cost of living crisis and Government legislation are already putting extra pressure onto the P&L of salon business. It’s unforgivable.

Committed to the pro: Keune have promised their products will never be found in Boots or online beauty shops

Realistic that Keune’s professional-first stance puts it at a commercial disadvantage versus many of its rivals, Potter is nevertheless committed to growing retail sales in the professional channel. He’s created an ambassador programme that rewards salon loyalty and spend (there are separate programmes for session stylists and freelancers); the Keune online shop is set up so that salons always earn their margins, even if the consumer is buying direct; and Potter has even set up the business-focused Keune University that his team are obliged to attend three times a year so they can pass on the latest insight and knowledge to Keune customers.

“What we’ve got to get better at in our industry is helping our customers to understand how retail can happen because hairdressers just switch off to it, thinking they can’t compete with online,” he says. “One of the most important things in a retail environment is getting the client in the seat because 97 per cent of the time that results in a purchase. Salons get consumers in the seat immediately but what they’re not good at is doing a really bespoke consultation with a prescriptive recommendation. We need to go back to the basics, which are that the hairdresser is the professional, with the right and the authority to tell the client what they must use and how to use it.”

There’s no doubt Potter is fired up about the future, and given how industry disillusionment has led to many salons looking around for new partner brands, 2025 could be a huge year for Keune. “I was with a very influential hairdresser the other day and he was saying to me, ‘There’s no other brands doing what you’re doing, but I think you need to dial up how you communicate that into the industry, and don’t be afraid of upsetting the competition because they’ve already stuck their two fingers up to us.’ And I totally get that. I do want people to look at Keune and think, ‘That’s the brand I want to work with.’  But the most important thing to me is that if you’re unhappy with what your brand is doing, don’t just moan and groan – walk away. There are so many companies that will support you and help you grow, You’ve just got to pick the right one.”

Discover more about what retail looks like now in the February issue of Creative HEAD.