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Fashion Trade Union Report Reveals Low Pay and Job Insecurity


Fashion Trade Union Report Reveals Low Pay and Job Insecurity


Fashion Trade Union Report Reveals Low Pay and Job Insecurity

Session stylists among those sharing experiences of unpaid overtime, late payments and toxic working environments

by AMANDA | INFORM

Just 14 per cent of fashion creatives are paid on time for the work they do and eight in 10 feel pressured to work for free. These are some of the damning findings in Fashion UK’s State of the Sector report, based on responses from more than 500 fashion creatives working in the UK, including hair stylists, make-up artists, nail technicians, fashion and accessories designers, photographers, fashion stylists, tailors and their assistants.

Fashion UK is the UK’s first trade union branch for fashion creatives – part of Bectu, the long-established union representing staff, contract and freelance workers in the media and entertainment industries – with vocal supporters including legendary session stylist Sam McKnight. While the British Fashion Council estimates that the fashion industry contributes £37 billion to the UK economy, the report illustrates the insecure working conditions of many fashion creatives, showcasing a story low – or no – pay and toxic working environments.

Fashion creatives from Black and minoritised ethnic backgrounds were more likely to be in low-paid work and to have experienced workplace discrimination than their white counterparts. More than a third are forced to supplement their income with non-fashion work.

Responses from 525 fashion creatives spoke about the inherent insecurity in the industry, reporting frequent job cancellations and late payments. Nearly a third (31 per cent) of fashion creatives said they don’t see themselves in the industry in five years’ time.

The key findings included:
• Just one in 10 fashion creatives (10 per cent) say they feel secure in their job.
• Only 14 per cent are paid on time for the work they do.
• Half (51 per cent) of fashion creatives are earning under £30,000 a year before tax from their work in the industry.
• More than seven in 10 have struggled financially (72 per cent) in the past year
• Eight in 10 (79 per cent) have felt pressured to work for free.
• And 83 per cent say that behaviours that would be considered toxic and inappropriate in public life are often tolerated in the fashion industry.

Fashion UK is now working on a two-part Guide to Good Practice, aimed at employers and creatives themselves, to help standardise hiring practices, terms and conditions in the industry. It will also help inform creatives about how to check their contract and terms, and advise on how to chase payments, among addressing other issues.

“It is very clear that fashion has a culture problem,” said head of Bectu, Philippa Childs. “From workers facing psychological abuse and unreasonable demands, to excessive hours and no or little pay, no one should have to put up with these conditions to ‘make it’ in an industry.”

This Is The 2025 Schwarzkopf Professional Young Artistic Team

This Is The 2025 Schwarzkopf Professional Young Artistic Team

This Is The 2025 Schwarzkopf Professional Young Artistic Team

Six fresh faces revealed for year-long programme

by AMANDA | INFORM

The new Schwarzkopf Professional Young Artistic Team for 2025 is here, celebrating up-and-coming talent from across the UK and Ireland.

The latest recruits are:

Lucy Hulme (Billi Currie, Marylebone, London)
Joseph McCarthy (Hooker & Young, Ponteland)
Alex Trippier (Claxton Hair, Rawtenstall)
Kate Olivia (HEX, Manchester)
Becky Yardley (Base Hairdressing, Warrington)
Eilidh Ashlyn (Complete Salon, Glasgow)

During the year-long programme, the team will be mentored by UK ambassador, Suzie McGill, to develop skills, explore new creative possibilities and gain industry experience at shoots, events and more. 

The selection process took place at Stā Studios, where finalists were asked to cut and style their chosen models hair using Schwarzkopf Professional products, with each model having a minimum of five inches cut from their hair. The finalists presented their models to a panel of judges, sharing their mood board, inspirations, techniques and vision.

BHC Report: Govt Must Halve VAT To Save Salons

BHC Report: Govt Must Halve VAT To Save Salons

BHC Report: Govt Must Halve VAT To Save Salons

Employment and apprenticeships will be decimated unless there’s action, warns explosive industry report

by AMANDA | INFORM

No new apprenticeships by 2027 and a 93 per cent fall in employment by 2030 – those are the stark findings from an incendiary British Hair Consortium (BHC) report on the future of UK salons unless the government halves VAT.

The report – by independent consultancy CBI Economics and based on responses from more than 2,000 salon owners and professionals – highlights how an unbalanced tax system is decimating the industry, largely because the sector is far more labour intensive than most other high street businesses, with limited chances to reclaim VAT costs. This is leaving VAT-registered businesses at a disadvantage, particularly with the rising levels of ‘disguised employment’. The latter described the practice of hiring contractors to avoid VAT and NI payments.

This unlevel playing field sees employers often contributing more than double the tax (12 per cent more) than the disguised model. The industry shift to self-employment has coincided with a decline in overall sectoral employment, which may have cost the Treasury £2.4bn in VAT receipts alone since 2009. The continuing drop in employment would create a sector “largely devoid of the employment rights that come with being an employee”.

The report also noted that cutting VAT on salon labour costs would be hugely cost-positive, potentially reversing the decline in VAT registrations.

“A ‘one size fits all’ tax system doesn’t work and has created an unlevel playing field. This report shows how cutting VAT to 10 per cent won’t cost the government a penny. It would save salons across the country and ensure the future of our industry, which sits at the heart of the high street” – Toby Dicker, BFC co-founder

Rising costs that are due to hit in full force in April following Chancellor Rachel Reeves’ Autumn Budget, have exacerbated the crunch for many salon employers. With the Spring Forecast due in five weeks, the BHC – which represents 50,000 UK hairdressing professionals – says the government must act urgently on VAT.

To show your support, the BHC is urging salon owners to visit bhc.co.uk to download the report and personalise the templated letter, which can be emailed to local MPs.

The BHC is a working group representing all areas of the UK personal care sector, including the Salon Employers Association, Salon Owners United, the Hair & Barber Council, the Freelance Hairdressers Association, the Men’s Hairdressing Federation and the Fellowship for British Hairdressing.

Reaction From Salon Employers

“The changes from the last Budget have made it very hard for salons to continue to offer the benefits of employment and we will certainly not be able to take on as many apprentices going forward. This will kill the future of our industry.” – Laura Geary, director at Headmasters, one of the UK’s biggest salon groups and one of the largest providers of apprenticeships

“Last year’s change in NI contributions has forced us to close our salon in Ormskirk in West Lancashire after 57 years of trading. Nearly all our competitors in Ormskirk are self-employed and we cannot continue to be competitive.

“We’re also a specialist provider of hairdressing apprenticeships – the largest in Liverpool. Last year we had over 300 applications but were only able to find employment for 60 apprentices because fewer salons can afford to take them on. Apprenticeships are the main route for sustainable careers in hairdressing, but the model is under threat if there aren’t enough salons able to directly employ hairdressers.” – Charlie Collinge, director at Collinge & Co, Liverpool

“One of the biggest challenges I’ve faced over the years has been VAT. A growing number of salons now operate with chair renters who don’t have to pay VAT, which allows them to keep their prices low and creates an uneven playing field.

“I also worry about the future for the next generation of stylists. Who will train them? Recently I had to make the difficult decision to let my two newest apprentices go because I simply can’t afford them. My training provider has no salons on their books looking for apprentices this year, as chair rental salons don’t typically train apprentices. If salons like mine continue to be squeezed, they’ll become less and less viable, making it even harder for employers like me to secure a stable future.” – Denise Thomas, owner of Denise Thomas Hair Salons, in Liverpool

Apprenticeship Reforms Aim To Cut Red Tape And Time

Apprenticeship Reforms Aim To Cut Red Tape And Time

Apprenticeship Reforms Aim To Cut Red Tape And Time

Changes to English and maths qualifications for over 19s and shorter apprenticeship duration included

by AMANDA | INFORM

The Department for Education is removing English and maths functional skills exit requirements for adult apprentices, alongside a reduction in the minimum apprenticeship duration from 12 to eight months and a streamlining of End Point Assessments. 

Businesses will now be able to decide whether adult learners over 19 need to complete Level 2 English and maths qualifications to pass their apprenticeship. The change comes in with immediate effect. 

The reduction in the minimum amount of time it takes to complete an apprenticeship – cut from 12 to eight months – will take effect from August 2025, with an eye on speeding up the development of future workers.  

 Secretary of State for Education, Bridget Phillipson, said: “Businesses have been calling out for change to the apprenticeship system and these reforms show that we are listening. Our new offer of shorter apprenticeships and less red tape strikes the right balance between speed and quality, helping achieve our number one mission to grow the economy.”  

The reforms also include changes to End Point Assessments (EPAs). From April 2025, the assessment process will become more streamlined. This includes more proportionate assessment methods that remove duplication, potential for on-programme assessment where appropriate and greater flexibility for training providers to deliver certain assessment elements. 

Caroline Larissey, chief executive of the National Hair and Beauty Federation, commented that the change to English and maths requirements could appeal to those who “excel in practical skills but struggle with formal qualifications”. “This could lead to a more diverse and skilled workforce, better equipped to meet the evolving needs of our clients,” she said. 

Cathy Weston, director of quality and standards at the NHBF, added that the change was “particularly promising” when considering completion rates and could “significantly improve success rates” while maintaining high standards. 

 However, Larissey said the increase in apprentice minimum wages and the need for “more robust employer incentives” still posed challenges: “The NHBF will be pressing the government for answers on how they plan to support employers in maintaining sustainable apprenticeship programmes, particularly in a sector where margins are already extremely tight.” 

 

Tax, Rates And Wage Increases Are Coming. Can Hairdressing Businesses Cope?

Tax, Rates And Wage Increases Are Coming. Can Hairdressing Businesses Cope?

Tax, Rates And Wage Increases Are Coming. Can Hairdressing Businesses Cope?

From April, hairdressing employers will pay more in National Insurance, as well as a higher Minimum Wage. In a special edition of our On The Floor series, Creative HEAD gathered business owners from across the UK to discuss the impact of Labour’s controversial first Budget

by CATHERINE | DOCUMENTS

In April 2025, significant rises in National Minimum wages and employers’ NI contributions will come into force, driving up operational costs and squeezing profit margins for many hairdressing businesses at a time of fragile post-pandemic recovery. 

For many small business owners already struggling to keep their heads above water, the additional costs announced in Chancellor Rachel Reeves’ first Budget will be crippling. There is talk of a curtailing of new hires, a need to make existing roles redundant and even business closures. 

If you’re one of those contemplating your rising cost base, the words of Eeyore from Winnie the Pooh might spring to mind: “Could be worse – not sure how, but it could be.”  

However, some are pushing such gloomy thoughts aside and embracing the challenge by finding ways to offset extra costs. 

Creative HEAD gathered a group of hairdressing business owners – a mix of employers, rent-a-chairs and hybrids – at a virtual round table to discuss how the impending changes are impacting on their plans for the future. 

Upcoming Changes Announced In The Budget 

Employers National Insurance Contributions (NICs) 

From April 2025 the rate of employers’ NICs will increase from 13.8 per cent to 15 per cent. The level at which employers start paying NICs (the secondary threshold) will also reduce from £9,100 to £5,000 per year. 

To help small businesses offset the increased NIC costs, the Employment Allowance, which helps eligible employers reduce their NIC liability, will increase from £5,000 to £10,500, and the £100,000 eligibility threshold will be removed. 

Business Rates 

April sees a scaling back of the business rate relief, with the current 75 per cent discount to be replaced by a permanent discount of 40 per cent, up to a maximum of £110k per business. 

Wage cost increases  

Significant Minimum Wage rises are coming into force in April 2025*: 

A rise in the National Living Wage for those aged 21 and over at more than double the rate of inflation (from £11.44 to £12.21 per hour). 

A 16.3 per cent increase in the National Minimum Wage for those aged 18 to 20 (from £8.60 to £10.00 per hour). 

And an 18 per cent increase for those aged 16 to 17 and apprentices (from £6.40 to £7.55) 

*The April 2025 rates represent the largest increase on record for the 18- to 20-year-old rate. The Government has also made clear they want the adult NLW rate to be extended to cover 18-year-olds in the future. 

Q1 It’s fair to say the Budget has caused consternation in the business community, but which element will most impact on your business strategy as the new legislation comes into force this year? 

For the majority of our panel, the biggest impact on business will come from the changes to employers’ NICs and the National Minimum Wage.  

However, the increase in NICs wasn’t the killer – it was the reduction in the threshold that caused the biggest shock. Almost everyone is looking at making tough choices because of those rising costs, and apprentices are a major concern.  

Those with apprentices talked of cutting numbers or not replacing them when their current cohort qualifies, while acknowledging the medium- to long-term impact on their future workforce of having fewer apprentices on board.  

“We run our business as self-employed, but employing apprentices was something we were hoping to build up to in the future. Now, after seeing the Budget, we’ve been put off. I genuinely don’t know how people can afford them.”

_______

“We are fully employed with a team of 35, and we’ve worked out that the rate increase and the NIC threshold reduction are going to add around £30,000 to our wage bill. We will raise our prices in March or April to help cover that increase but our view is that later on in the year we will drop our apprentices from four to two. And the sad thing is that we rely on our apprentice programme for our stylists to come through, so that will be quite difficult in terms of our future workforce.”

_______

“The most disgraceful thing [the Government did] was reducing the threshold from £9,100 to £5,000. That is disproportionately hitting part-timers. If you’ve got one person on £150k, it will cost you £2.5k. If you’ve got 10 part-timers on £15k each, it’ll cost you an extra £10k. That’s insanity. So, supporting people like young mums, who come in at 10am and leave at 3pm, is now the most expensive increase in our labour cost.”

_______

“I run four salons in south London and around 75 per cent of our staff are employed, so [the Budget] is going to have the most enormous impact on our costs. The real frustration for me and other salon owners is that I don’t think the Government understands how the impact is disproportionately terrible for hairdressing. I can’t think of any other industry where the labour cost is around 60 per cent of turnover – we are overlooked in that respect.”

_______

“In the past, if I saw a great 19-year-old, I would have said, ‘Come on board, you could be worth the investment.’ Now I will probably think very differently. I am petrified for the future of apprentices in our industry.”

_______

“After many years of being a passionate employer, it became obvious that my team could walk off and earn so much more money self-employed, so I switched my business to chair rental. I was mid-transformation when the Budget hit and all I could think was, ‘Thank Christ I did that!’”

Q2 What action will you need to take to ensure your business can survive and thrive over the next 12 months? 

As well as raising prices (which can neatly be blamed on the Budget, and clients will understand), there was lots of talk of working meticulously through the P&L to make cutbacks, too.  

Apprentices are in the firing line, but so are those unique luxury extras for clients – one business owner talked of reducing the size of his coffee cups because clients are increasingly asking for more expensive oat milk; another said they would stop offering baker-crafted branded biscuits and go back to Biscoff.  

However, we also heard how some are looking at the positives of their business, “shutting out the noise” to focus on what they’re brilliant at and working hard to raise awareness of those USPs and to deliver a business that is flexible and responsive to both clients and team. 

“I can’t make progress if I’m feeling anxious or negative. What I need to do is take practical steps to ensure that my business is sustainable. I’ve set aside the whole of this first quarter of 2025 to completely rework my business model. I need to look at every single line, I need to take it all apart and then put it back together in a model that works, that will tell me what I need to do with my pricing, my contracts, my apprentices, my stylists.” 

_______

“We have decided we need to be stricter on targets, so we now have a weekly huddle on a Monday morning to clarify our goals – we’re not drifting into anything anymore. We are trying to plan and make sure that every member of the team knows where they are financially.” 

_______

“I will be looking at my pricing and actually trying to understand it better (it’s always been a bit messy). I’ve been using the Maddi Cook calculator and putting it all on a spreadsheet and seeing how an increase could help me. This is definitely an excuse to blame the Government. I can be blunt with clients and say, ‘My staff deserve a decent wage and this is the only way we can afford it.’” 

_______

“We’re going back to basics – facts and figures. How much do we need to make? How are we going to do that? What skills will be required? We’re letting that inform us how we need to address the Minimum Wage, the business rates and so on. I feel you can get caught up in the noise, what’s going wrong, whereas we need to think about what we’re good at, what we’re offering and how we will achieve that financially.” 

_______

“For us, it’s been an exercise of consolidation. We’re trying to bring everything back in-house, which will require a bit of restructuring and like everyone has said, there’s no room for any fat. We’re looking at efficiencies, really trying to work out where we can make savings, while bringing up those service standards so that clients feel they’re getting value. What’s scaring me a little is that we put up our prices every April and they will have to go up significantly this April, so we’re having to work out how to present that to clients without spooking them.” 

Q3 What action would you like the hairdressing sector to take to support your business over the next 12 months? 

It was widely felt that industry organisations are not making our position clear to Government. There is a distinct feeling that hairdressing is not understood, and we need to be more vocal in sharing our real issues.  

There was talk about the need to raise the reputation of hairdressing. The public needs to see that we are not the Wild West – that hairdressing is a legitimate industry, and we invest in our people. For the first time in a while, the issue of compulsory registration was raised and there were calls for training organisations to be vetted and rated. 

Business owners are also taking a hard look at their suppliers, many of whom have just announced price rises. It would be good if those account managers and reps could be there to offer business support, rather than just trying to sell more product… 

“I think the industry bodies that are supposed to represent us are doing a bad job. A couple seem tone deaf in terms of the impact of [the Budget] changes on our industry. We are lumped in with beauticians and cosmetics brands so what’s presented to the Government is actually a muddled picture about growth, when actually if you drill down the trend in hairdressing is a total exodus from employment into self-employment and businesses deliberately staying below the VAT threshold, which creates an unlevel playing field.” 

_______

“The organisations who represent us are run by people who are not hairdressers, none of them own salons. It’s effing ridiculous!” 

_______

“I do think that not having a voice is an issue for us. Salon ownership is at an all-time low. So, if someone is doing a survey of hairdressers and asking them what the problems are, the results are not going to be representative of the issues that we [as business owners vs independents] are facing, because only a small percentage of respondents will be running a business and having to deal with these very real issues following the Budget. If the Government is being told, for example, that 90 per cent of the industry is managing, then why would they take any notice of the other 10 per cent? We’re getting to the point where we can’t train anybody anymore and nobody’s coming through as a result. That message needs to be clearer.” 

_______

“I think we need to register hairdressers. I think there needs to be some kind of clampdown on standards in training organisations because some of them are shockingly bad.” 

_______

“With the bigger brands, obviously, the more you spend, the more support you get. But when you’re trying to support the smaller independent brands, they just don’t have the ability to deliver that. So, it’s all a bit tough, it’s treacle out there – it’s sticky.” 

Q4 What action would you like the Government take to address some of the negative impacts of the Budget on your business moving forward? 

VAT was an issue brought up by all – how a reduction in the rate and/or in the threshold would make a huge difference, although nobody saw any VAT change on the cards. The predominant feeling is that all hair pros providing a service should be paying similar taxes and all should be VAT-registered. That would create a level playing field that would make business ownership and employment more sustainable – and that needs to be better explained to Government.  

“I’d like to see Government give us a VAT that is proportionate for service industries. I know they do that in Ireland (VAT for hairdressers is charged at a reduced rate of 13.5 per cent versus the standard rate of 23 per cent) but I’d like to see it go further. I’d like to see them make every independent stylist charge VAT as well to give us more of a level playing field. So, if you’re a practising hairdresser you should have a VAT number.” 

_______

“When it comes to VAT, [the Government] needs to realise that we are an industry that works on totally different principles to an awful lot of the High Street, and yet we’re bundled in with the same set of responsibilities and it just doesn’t work. They also need to understand that we are a craft and that for us to be able to train and pass on that craft we need better financial support. Through economic necessity, assistants are being asked to go onto the floor too quickly.” 

_______

“VAT is just the killer. It’s so depressing watching your business grow and then seeing how much tax you have to pay and how little you can offset. Every week, when I put that money into to the pot I use to pay my VAT, I just feel like, What’s the point?’” 

_______

“We all know that in barbering there are so many crooks on the high street, and it sucks knowing that we work so hard and are doing things properly while there are 30 other barber shops down the road doing cash in hand and probably making more money than us.” 

_______

“Government has to understand that our industry is labour-intensive. They’ve got to level the playing field. Everyone has to be VAT-registered, whether you work from a shed or from a salon in Mayfair. And I think they need to reward employers that train people, that’s also key. Until that happens, it’s all going to become more and more of a challenge. But I do think salons that can survive the next three or four years are going to be smashing it, because if you can keep your head until then…”