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FASHION EAST WITH MARK HAMPTON

FASHION EAST WITH MARK HAMPTON

Feb 27, 2024 | CREATIVE PROJECTS

CATEGORIES > EXPLORE > CREATIVE PROJECTS

FASHION EAST - MARK HAMPTON

Celebrating 40 years of London Fashion Week, Mark Hampton led the hair team for Fashion East at the A/W24 show, which saw both Johanna Parv’s and Olly Shinder’s collections showcased under one roof.

Fashion East has a reputation for giving a voice to young fashion creatives, steering the conversation, and highlighting the most innovative new names, with inspirational ways of spotlighting their work across Fashion Week. 

Flying in from Hollywood, working alongside two different designers and co-ordinating a hair team for two shows seems like no easy feat, so we caught up with session and celebrity hairstylist Mark Hampton backstage at London Fashion Week to find out just how he works his magic. 

Creative HEAD: Firstly, what does 40 years of London Fashion Week mean to you? 

Mark Hampton: It means it started before I was born! But it also means heritage. I trained at Vidal Sassoon – his connections with fashion were so deep. For me he was the first person who transcended fashion and film and art. His inspiration for Bauhaus and cutting Mia Farris’ hair for Rosemary’s Baby were things that made me go ‘wow! This is where you can go with this job?’ 

CH: Is that what sparked your interest in taking your session work further? 

MH: Yeah, and then working with Guido. I could see the industry from the true creative perspective that it should be. 

CH: So, how do you navigate working with two designers for one show? 

MH: I have a lot of ADD so I don’t think it really matters for me. I enjoy it more; I like the diversity and the challenge of trying to pull off two shows (normally we do three!). For me, it feels more like a show, the atmosphere is better because there’s less focus on one specific thing and there is more of a vibe.  

CH: How do you keep the vibe positive and the team calm? 

MH: Good assistants! My first assistant Clare [Hurford] is a legend – she really helps me with the production, separating the team and finding the strengths and weakness to play in our favour. When you’re doing two shows, the hair is very different. Olly’s show is predominantly guys, so you need barbers and people who are strong in cutting, whereas Johanna’s is more about styling, so you need people with a different mindset. 

CH: How have you approached the hair looks for Fashion East? 

MH: I think London is more about selling a character instead of selling clothes. For example, with Johanna’s collection, the clothing has a big focus on streetwear and functionality but on a very elegant level, so the hair must really reflect that character. You want to get into their psyche, what would they do if they were wearing these clothes? Did they have their hat on? Were they cycling and took their helmet off, and what would their hair look like? I think it’s important for Johanna that the person that wears her clothes looks like she could have done her own hair.  

CH: We heard you’ve been using the Supernova Pro… 

MH: Yes, it’s so fun! It’s so nice to have something that really works! And the fact that it’s professional means it’s going to do what I need it to do. 

CH: How did you use it on the looks for Fashion East? 

MH: We’ve straightened a few of the girls’ hair. On some of them that already had straight hair, we added a bit of texture as well. Then after I did the chignon, I used the straightening iron to accentuate some of the straighter pieces. 

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THE TOP TRENDS SPOTTED AT LONDON FASHION WEEK A/W24

THE TOP TRENDS SPOTTED AT LONDON FASHION WEEK A/W24

Feb 27, 2024 | DOCUMENTS

CATEGORIES > EXPLORE > DOCUMENTS

THE TOP TRENDS SPOTTED AT LONDON FASHION WEEK A/W24

Get the lowdown on the key hair trends spotted on the catwalks at London Fashion Week A/W24 shows

Backstage at Mithridate A/W24

As London Fashion Week concludes, we’re reflecting on the biggest trends spotted on the catwalks at the A/W24 shows. A melting pot of creativity, this season saw a number of stand out styles, including metallic foiling, the return of the deep side parting and a celebration of natural texture. Here’s the looks which will be setting social media ablaze come A/W24…

A touch of metallic

At New York Fashion Week the use of gold foil was seen at Christian Siriano, with Lacy Redway adorning models with foiling on buns and at the roots. Not be to be outdone by our American counterparts, the session world in London also embraced the intricate foiling technique this season, with both gold and silver details appearing across the weekend.

At Mithridate, Johanna Cree Brown was inspired by statues of ancient Buddhas in the jungles of Asia and the gold patina weathered with moss and slight decay. Using L’Oréal Professionnel Paris products, we saw gold leaf applied in broken pieces to reflect the patina on ancient statues. Using a brush and bowl, Tecni.ART Fix Max gel was applied to the centre parting, before pieces of gold leaf were added at the parting to catch the light, using the handle of a tail comb to press into place. The hair was finished off with Ellnet Spray to keep everything in place.

Photography by Rebecca Maynes at Chet Lo A/W24

Meanwhile at Chet Lo, it was silver leaf in the spotlight. Hair lead Anna Cofone worked with Authentic Beauty Concept products to add silver leaf to the hair as a nod to the collection. It was a genius way of referencing the concept of clothes becoming armour, which is also reflected in the slicked-back spiked graphic shapes created. “My relationship with Chet has spanned more than three seasons and it’s one that I really treasure, as there is absolute creative trust and a genuine authenticity within the design process,” Anna said. “It was amazing to have the support of Authentic beauty Concept, the products worked perfectly for what we needed to achieve.”

The return of the side parting

It’s an age old debate between generations as to what parting is ‘cooler’ but if this season’s shows are anything to go by, the side parting is back on top for A/W24.

Spotted on the catwalk of Harris Reed A/W24 was a more subtle take from Ali Pirzadeh, crafted using Dyson Professional tools. In harmony with the sweeping drapes and billowing volume in the garments, Ali introduced a structured side parting with an ‘S’ shape lift at the hairline, and a healthier looking, high shine blow-dry finish, created using the new Dyson Supersonic r professional hair dryer. The graphic take on a classic up-do incorporates a sense of masculinity, nodding to Harris’s fluid approach to gender.

Images: Backstage at Harris Reed A/W24, model at Eudon Choi

Over at Eudon Choi, hair lead Adam Garland also used a sweeping side parting as a core detail. “The overall look is designed to have no hard lines,” Adam explained. After creating an irregular parting on the left, Airy Texture Spray from Authentic Beauty Concept was used to create a dry, dusty texture. Next, a ponytail was created at the nape area. “We then created texture on the right-hand side by rubbing a balloon up and down the hair shaft to create static, using a light mist of Working Hairspray then repeating to lock in the new texture,” he added. To complete the look, hair was placed over the right side of the face and random pieces were tucked to create a veil over the face.

Likewise, a sweeping site parting and low ponytail were core details seen at KNWLS, with hair lead Mustafa Yanaz using Session Label from Schwarzkopf Professional to achieve the lived-in finish. “Imagine a New York, Upper East Side girl with beautiful hair. She goes to a second party and ties the hair in a knot,” Mustafa explained. “She looks like she partied already, but the hair still looks healthy and shiny.”

Images: Photography by Alex Barron-Hough backstage at KNWLS A/W24 

Nature’s touch

While some shows and presentations offered statement styles, with others a ‘less is more’ approach was seen, as hair teams looked to enhance the model’s own natural texture. At Supriya Lele, Syd Hayes created “freshly washed and brushed out, beautiful hair.” Syd and his team worked with a  centre partings on all of the girls, with freshly washed hair dried flat using the new BaByliss PRO Falco dryer and nozzle attachment, and brushed to create fluffiness and texture to ensure the look of real-life lived-in hair. To finish the look and add some movement, Syd used the 25mm Titanium Expression Curling Tong to add a very slight bend to the front sections of the hair to frame and open up the face.

Images: Supriya Lele A/W24, 16Arlington A/W24

Similarly, at the 16Arlington show, Sam McKnight and his team delivered a look which personified natural, Cool Girls. It was Inspired by the beautiful models walking in fresh off the street. Some models had their hair de-frizzed and de-fluffed with Happy Endings or Dressed to Kill, smoothing through where needed. Other models had a soft wave added to the front, using a straightening iron. An S shape was created with the section, before gently tapping with the straightener to create texture.

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MIX AND MATCH BRAIDS AT V&A’S FASHION IN MOTION: MINJU KIM

MIX AND MATCH BRAIDS AT V&A’S FASHION IN MOTION: MINJU KIM

Feb 22, 2024 | TECHNIQUES

CATEGORIES > EXPLORE > TECHNIQUES

MIX AND MATCH BRAIDS AT V&A’S FASHION IN MOTION: MINJU KIM

Hair lead Andrea Daley shares how she created the polished but not perfected look.

The V&A’s Fashion in Motion shows make catwalk couture accessible to a wider audience. Elegantly set against the backdrop of the museum, the ongoing series of catwalk have spotlighted work from some of the greatest designers of our time. In the most recent event, the inaugural winner of Netflix’s Next In Fashion, Korea based designer Minju Kim, shared a glimpse into her joyful, bold style. In a cohesive symphony of youthful playfulness and avant-garde haute couture, Minju’s signature style delivered bold shapes complimented by feminine characteristics.  

In partnership with L’Oréal Professionnel Paris, the hair team was led by Andrea Daley, who created bespoke styles for each model. Inspired by macramé and Korean knots, the core look featured micro-braiding, knots and twisted detailing combined to give a little edge to girly styles.  

“The styles are adaptable for most hair lengths and textures,” says Andrea. “The ‘mix and match’ braids allow for multiple styles from one look and work as a perfect hair up for festivals too.” 

Get the look 

Step one: Prep the hair using L’Oréal Professionnel Paris TECNI.ART Pli to give a mailable texture without compromising on shine. 

Step two: Part the hair in the centre, from hairline to nape.  

Step three: Subdivide the back into four sections (top right finishing just above the ear, top left just to the middle of the ear). Ensure the partings are obviously asymmetric to recreate the look. 

Step four: Split the right-hand side into two ponytails. The top should be high, with the lower one secured at the nape to exaggerate the difference in balance.  

Step five: Now, twist the top ponytail into a short rope braid with the majority of the length left out.  

Step six: Plait the below ponytail and intertwine the length of the rope twist. 

Step seven: On the left-hand side, scalp braid from the hairline to the middle of the ear and then plait.  

Step eight: Then, braid the below section into a skinny plait. 

Step nine: In front of the ear and on the hairline, loosely release the baby hair using the palm of your hand for a softer edge.  

Step 10: Finally, smooth the tails of each braid and the loose hairlines using the L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Steampod for a glass-like finish. 

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GET THE LOOK – HAIR BARCODING FOR KWK BY KAY KWOK S/S24

GET THE LOOK – HAIR BARCODING FOR KWK BY KAY KWOK S/S24

Feb 22, 2024 | TECHNIQUES

CATEGORIES > EXPLORE >TECHNIQUES

GET THE LOOK – HAIR BARCODING FOR KWK BY KAY KWOK S/S24

The inside spin on session stylist Nick Irwin’s otherworldly look for the futuristic designer.

Kay Kwok is a Hong Kong fashion designer known for his futuristic and contemporary designs. He combines avant-garde fashion with digital influences to create an unconventional aesthetic, perfectly exampled by a 3D-printed custom-made art piece designed for Beyoncé’s Renaissance tour.

His first time working with Kay Kwok, this season Nick Irwin transported us to another planet with a futuristic hair look centred around the concept of hair barcoding. The idea behind the show was to tap into Kay’s references towards futurism, while also maintaining the individuality of each model. With this in mind, Nick and his team were able to craft an almost barcode-like effect using a gelled strip placed in certain areas of each model’s hair. 

The Session Label hero products

The Jelly
“We’ve set the hair with a great product called The Jelly, which gives you a glossy, almost plastic, futuristic feel with the finish. It’s a lightweight gel that you can comb and manipulate the hair with.”

The Coat
“The Coat is a super, super light shine spray. If you use lots of it and spray close to the head, it makes the hair super glossy. We’ve used that with a wide-tooth comb over the surface to a give an almost barcode-like feel to the hair.”

The Strong
“To make the hair hold in the area we’ve added the gel strip, we use The Strong – a super strong hold hairspray.” 

Find out more about Session Label from Schwarzkopf Professional 

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JAMES EARNSHAW – MY TAKE ON A BIG 70’S BLOW-OUT

JAMES EARNSHAW – MY TAKE ON A BIG 70’S BLOW-OUT

Feb 22, 2024 | TECHNIQUES

CATEGORIES > EXPLORE > TECHNIQUES

JAMES EARNSHAW: MY TAKE ON... A BIG '70S BLOW-OUT

A new twist on the Farrah Fawcett classic with big, bouncy waves.

“I love this ’70s blow-out because it has really moved from a trend to something more classic. People love it, the flicks and texture always perform super well on social, and also it’s such a fun look to add colour with too!”

It’s really important to start with the perfect prep. I use lots of Amika Brooklyn Bombshell Blowout Spray, which is great as you can really layer it up to create a strong base. I apply this all the way through the roots and ends. It’s also good to add a small amount of smoothing cream to the ends – I love Amika Supernova Moisture and Shine Cream for this is as it’s super lightweight. 

Using my ghd helios hair dryer, I blast dry the hair to remove lots of moisture. This is when I’ll then divide the hair into sections. Sectioning off is so important for the direction you want the hair to sit, I like to take all my sections diagonally. Working diagonally back means the hair sits a lot better, and this also creates more width which is key for that ’70s feel.

 

Once sectioned I use the dryer and round brush, starting around the face and over-directing the hair forward as I blow the ends backwards. I go over each section a few times and switch between hot and cool to really seal in the curl and volume. It’s important to use lots of tension and pull the hair out as you dry. Once I reach the crown, I like to alternate the direction I dry – some towards the face and some backwards – but I still over-direct the roots forward. 

After the hair is dried, I leave it to cool ideally for around five minutes so it can really set. I then spritz with lots of Amika Un.Done Texture Spray and get my hands in and massage the roots, this breaks up any section marks and helps me to see how the hair is falling. Next, I tilt the head back and brush the hair upside down to create as much width as possible, before applying more texture spray.

 

Always use your fingers to manipulate the hair so it sits exactly how you want! You can finish with hairspray, but personally I prefer texture spray as it is drier and keeps the hair looking more modern and fluffy. This finish is perfect for creating the ultimate Insta hair.”

 

 

 

 

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