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“Lighting Can Change Everything” – Photographer Vadym Yatsun Discusses Elevating Imagery With Experimental Lighting

“Lighting Can Change Everything” – Photographer Vadym Yatsun Discusses Elevating Imagery With Experimental Lighting

“Lighting Can Change Everything” – Photographer Vadym Yatsun Discusses Elevating Imagery With Experimental Lighting

How accidentally moving to London and a chance encounter with the Trevor Sorbie team accelerated his career. 

 
Vadym Yatsun
Vadym Yatsun
I became a photographer by accident; I started my career as a musician. I needed photos for my work but struggled to get a good photographer, so I started doing photography, and then it just took off for me. That was more than 10 years ago now! In Ukraine we didn’t have any photography schools, so I was trying to find information on the internet, and I had to just analyse all the shoots I saw; how the lighting could work, where the lights were placed, how they could be directed – and that’s how I developed a good relationship with lighting.  

I’m always prepped, but slight differences on set might change everything quite significantly. This is what I love about the creative process – it starts by working on the presentation, with the mood board, storyboard, all the looks, hairstyles, makeup and so on. Everything is carefully planned and I’m happy with how it changes on a set. The model will bring their own energy, and everything may change, but this is the magic that fascinates me. 

 

 
Vadym Datsun
Vadym Yatsun
“I became a photographer by accident; I started my career as a musician. I needed photos for my work but struggled to get a good photographer, so I started doing photography, and then it just took off for me. That was more than 10 years ago now! In Ukraine we didn’t have any photography schools, so I was trying to find information on the internet, and I had to just analyse all the shoots I saw; how the lighting could work, where the lights were placed, how they could be directed – and that’s how I developed a good relationship with lighting.  

I’m always prepped, but slight differences on set might change everything quite significantly. This is what I love about the creative process – it starts by working on the presentation, with the mood board, storyboard, all the looks, hairstyles, makeup and so on. Everything is carefully planned and I’m happy with how it changes on a set. The model will bring their own energy, and everything may change, but this is the magic that fascinates me. 

 

Vadym Yatsun

Image one, Image two

I like complex stuff. The more complicated it is, the more interesting it becomes. I think lighting is one of the most complicated parts of photography. I’m a control freak and shooting with daylight is something that you cannot control. It just drives me nuts, which is why lighting is a good thing! 

“I like challenges, I find this work challenging and that’s what brings something special to my life.”

Since working in the hair industry, there have been lots of learning experiences. I believe that all photographers and people on set should know almost everything about their colleagues and the specifics of their work. As soon as I got into the industry, I started communicating with my colleagues, hairstylists, and makeup artists. I learned everything about their processeswhich hairstyle should be the first, what would be the next, all and all the processes working with wigs. Now I love wigs most of all, because they make everything flexible 

Vadym Yatsun

Image three, Image four

Getting into the UK hairdressing scene was an interesting development, as I had worked with lots of hair brands and hair magazines in Ukraine. I love hair because it creates shapes – it can save simple looks or fashion shoots! I moved to London two years ago by accident. I wasn’t supposed to move here, but I started looking for different people to collaborate with, to get a job, and any connections, and then the Trevor Sorbie team found me. I followed someone from the team, and then they followed me, which led to being invited to shoot their new collection. And thats how things started in London! 

Vadym Yatsun

Image five, Image six

My first career highlight was this cover story for Schon! magazine with Indira Varma. She was in Game of Thrones and this was the first magazine shoot with a big budget, big sets and big brands. It was really lovely to have the trust of quite an important magazine. 
This shoot for Paper magazine was quite cool. The last couple of years changed my life completely, and they also changed my approach completely. 

My first career highlight was this cover story for Schon! magazine with Indira Varma. She was in Game of Thrones and this was the first magazine shoot with a big budget, big sets and big brands. It was really lovely to have the trust of quite an important magazine. 

This shoot for Paper magazine was quite cool. The last couple of years changed my life completely, and they also changed my approach completely. 
Vadym Yatsun

Image seven

This was another image for Schon! magazine, with hair by Paul Donovan. This was the second shoot and I love collaborating with this magazine because they trust me a lot. It’s something that rarely happens, but they just trust me 100 per cent so I can experiment. We were using layers of colour filters in front of the lens, changing and distorting the image; sometimes my work is not about lighting, its about the effect that we can give, about the layers and layers that can be placed in front of the lens. This sometimes brings unexpected results, which is also cool, and it is also part of the challenge because you never know what will happen. Its a shoot I love, because that was the first experiment with this layering of colour filters and it was then I decided it will be part of my work and have my personal, distinctive, recognisable style. 

Image eight

This was an amazing collaboration with one of my favourite makeup artists, Sophia Sinot, she’s worked with a lot of big talents and so that was a collaboration for Elle Ukraine, with hair by Trevor Sorbie’s Tizi Dima. I love this shoot because there was a lot of playing and experimenting with flowers and working with lots of effects, such as reflecting from different surfaces. We had this amazing piece of silver film that was giving a water-like effect with the light reflecting off.
Vadym Yatsun

Image nine

This image, with Ross Kwan on hair, we had lots of stuff that the set designer brought, and then he found this piece of rubbish downstairs and it reminded me of the shape of an eye, so he wrapped it in a piece of cloth, and that how it became the shape you see in the background. We placed it behind the model, and it worked perfectly with all the lighting, and changing the gradients, and it was cool. 

Lighting is something that always goes with me, it’s something that can change every set – you don’t need anything sophisticated, just the white cove, and lots and lots of lights.


Credits

Image one
Hairstylist: Tizi Dima
Stylist: Yana Chaplygina
Stylist assistant: Naa-Okailey
Make-up: Julia Leshanich
Model: Liam Elias

Image two
Hair: Tizi Dima
Stylist: Ignacio de Tiedra

Make-up: Sofia Sinot 
Make-up assistant: Carolynska

Nails: Giulia Oldani
Set design: Sam Edyn
Set designer assistant: Jeremy Rwakasiisi
Model: Galina Arkhi
Photography assistant: Nicola Sclano

Image three
Hair: Ross Kwan
Stylist:
Ignacio de Tiedra
Make-up: Mona Leanne
Set designer: Sam Edyn
Set designer assistant: Jeremy Rwakasiisi

Nails: Guilia Oldani
Model: Cecília Gama
Photography assistant: Nicola Sclano 

Image four
Hair: Tizi Dima
Stylist: Yana Chaplygina
Stylist assistant:Naa-Okailey

Make-up: Julia Leshanich

 

Image five
Hair: Paul Donovan
Hair assistant: Jessica Kell
Stylist and art direction: Ignacio de Tiedra
Stylist assistant: Enol Garçon
Art direction: Margo Mayor
Make-up: Justine Jenkins
Set designer: Sam Edyn
Set designer assistant: Jeremy Rwakasiisi
Model: Indira Varma
Nails: Mica Hendricks
Photography assistant: Simeon Asenov, Leo Corfu

Image six
Hair: Danilo Giangreco
Photography assistants: Iryl Mugas, Nicola Sclano
Stylist: Adele Cany
Stylist assistant: Cordie Watson
Make-up: India Rawlings
Model: Rahi Chadda
Set design: Sam Edyn
Set design assistant: Jeremy Rwakasiisi

Image seven
Hair: Ross Kwan
Stylist and art direction: Ignacio de Tiedra
Stylist assistant: Khem Sharu
Art direction: Margo Mayor
Make-up: Nency
Nails: Mica Hendricks
Gaffer: Zadek T
P
hotography assistant: Joseff Williams
Model: Jiayan Yao

Image eight
Hair: Tizi Dima
Stylist: Ignacio de Tiedra
Make-up: Sophia Sinot
Make-up assistant: Carolynska

N
ails: Guilia Oldani
S
et design: Sam Edyn
Model: Tanatswa
S
et designer assistant: Jeremy Rwakasiisi
Photography assistant: Nicola Sclano

Image nine
Hair: Ross Kwan
Stylist:
Ignacio de Tiedra
Make-up: Mona Leanne
Set designer: Sam Edyn
Set designer assistant: Jeremy Rwakasiisi

Nails: Guilia Oldani
Model: Reny
Photography assistant: Nicola Sclano 

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Hair: Joseph Ferraro and Melissa Timperley for Authentic Beauty Concept
Portrait photography: Andrew Woffinden (A&R Creative), assisted by Marija Vainilaviciute and Luke Weller
Fashion: Harriet Nicolson (Stella Creative Artists)
Make-up: Cat Parnell using Charlotte Tilbury
Editorial: Amanda Nottage (Creative HEAD)
Social media & reportage photography: Kelsey Dring and Aoife Connell (Creative HEAD)
Production: Joanna Kidd (Creative HEAD)
Models: Maisie Stock (MOT) and Nayha Queiroz (MMG Models)
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Focus On: Efi Davies – The Avant-Garde Supremo Who Just Made The 2024 Most Wanted Hair Icon Shortlist

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Why Toni&Guy’s International Artistic Director has her eye permanently on the next generation.

by ATHERINEEXPLORE > PORTFOLIOS

 

Toni&Guy’s International Artistic Director, head of the Avant-Garde and Long Hair Departments and leader of the Session & Editorial and Styling & Finishing courses, and now taking her place on Most Wanted’s prestigious Hair Icon shortlist for the first time… It’s fair to say that Efi Davies is one of the industry’s most impressive creative talents.

An innovator whose mastery of braiding and hair up styles knows no bounds, Efi is pivotal when it comes to conceptualising and art-directing the editorial and avant-garde concepts within Toni&Guy’s global collections and campaigns, working closely with Global Brand Director Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck and Global Creative Director Cos Sakkas (who is also on the Hair Icon list).

But none of it would have happened if Greek-born Efi hadn’t decided 25 years ago to pay a visit to her sister in London… Instantly hooked by the fashion and music scene, Efi took a job as an assistant at Toni&Guy, where founder Toni Mascolo took her under his wing and ignited her dream of pushing boundaries within the industry. 

Creative HEAD caught up with this incredible artist as she took a break from Fashion Week…

 

Toni&Guy’s International Artistic Director, head of the Avant-Garde and Long Hair Departments and leader of the Session & Editorial and Styling & Finishing courses, and now taking her place on Most Wanted’s prestigious Hair Icon shortlist for the first time… It’s fair to say that Efi Davies is one of the industry’s most impressive creative talents.

An innovator whose mastery of braiding and hair up styles knows no bounds, Efi is pivotal when it comes to conceptualising and art-directing the editorial and avant-garde concepts within Toni&Guy’s global collections and campaigns, working closely with Global Brand Director Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck and Global Creative Director Cos Sakkas (who is also on the Hair Icon list).

But none of it would have happened if Greek-born Efi hadn’t decided 25 years ago to pay a visit to her sister in London… Instantly hooked by the fashion and music scene, Efi took a job as an assistant at Toni&Guy, where founder Toni Mascolo took her under his wing and ignited her dream of pushing boundaries within the industry. 

Creative HEAD caught up with this incredible artist as she took a break from Fashion Week…

What would you say are your strongest points as a hair artist?

Oh, that’s not a very easy question to answer… I try not to repeat myself and like consistently to evolve and come up with new ideas to share. I love pushing the boundaries of traditional hairdressing, constantly experimenting with something  unique. It doesn’t happen very often but it’s all about experimenting, right?

Do you have such a thing as a typical week? If so, what does it look like?

No two weeks are the same. Whether teaching at the Academy, working backstage at a show or on set on a collection, I strive to transfer my skills, knowledge and experience to the young creatives around me, who I expect one day will go on to make my work seem old-fashioned. Every week brings its own challenges and opportunities, so life is always unique and interesting.

You’re the International Artistic Director at Toni&Guy, which is a REALLY BIG DEAL. What elements of your role give you the most satisfaction?

It’s the opportunities to inspire and be inspired, the ability to mentor and nurture new talent, and the chance to innovate within the industry. I have lived the dream and hope that it’s now my turn to pass on the torch.

These images are from my current collection using macramé techniques on synthetic hair that I melted and stretched to create beautiful bob shapes, precisely interlacing the models’natural hair to sit how I wanted it. It creates a poetic yet futuristic feel.

The last three weeks (or months): where have you been, who have you worked with, and what have you been planning?

The last few weeks have been packed full of creative shooting and prep days. We have been heavily involved with London Fashion Week Men’s and were a part of the British Fashion Council’s 40 Years of London Fashion Week exhibition. I had the honour of having two of my avant-garde creations on display that celebrated Toni&Guy’s 20-year partnership with the British Fashion Council.

Looking back, who/what has got you to this point in your career?

A lot of hard work and determination. Every origin story requires a bit of magic and mine came in the shape of Anthony and Toni Mascolo. I will be eternally grateful to them both for seeing something in me, taking me under their wing and, through the sheer power of their own passion, opening my eyes to the idea of innovation and creative vision within the industry. Also to our CEO, Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck, who has been behind me throughout my career, giving me amazing opportunities and encourouging me in everything I do.

I have worked with Tolu Coker for several seasons and have an amazing relationship with her. I create bespoke hair pieces and headdresses to complement her collections and love being educated on her culture and how I can follow it through into the hair.
This image shows one of my favourite moments from last fashion week in February. The Toni&Guy Session Team and I created beautiful clean yet edgy finger waves. Everything was tailored to the individual model, which made it look really natural.
This is ‘New Wave’ from the Toni&Guy 2007 Kaizen collection. It was the first haircut I did for a Toni&Guy collection and I absolutely adore this image.

Your ultimate creative collaboration – what would that look like? Who would be in it?

Throughout my career I have had the priviledge to work with incredible people – stylists, photographers, make up artists and designers – and I am grateful to them all for their friendship and influence. 

What excites you about hairdressing right now?

The continuous education and sharing of knowledge within the industry. Whether through demos or social media platforms, the constant exchange of new ideas and techniques helps us all to evolve and push the boundaries of what we can achieve in hairdressing.

What frustrates you about hairdressing right now?

The decline of the younger generation. Less and less  Not enough young people coming into our industry.

What’s your opinion on why so many hair pros work for free backstage and on set, and how do you think they can establish more value for the work they do?

Many in the hair industry are driven by passion and a love for their craft, so find themselves agreeing to work for free. While it’s okay to do that occasionally and it gives you great experience, it’s really important to make sure you get proper credit for your work and that your contributions are acknowledged. It’s also important to keep a strong image bank of work to document your work across social media as much as possible!

This image is from my avant-garde Crystal collection from 2010. It is very important to me because it’s created from the model’s natural hair, using a boning technique to create structure and add height
These pictures are from a shoot I did for the Journal Magazine with David Mannah. I trapped the hair inside of resin, pushing the boundaries to create something cool. The futuristic bob incorporates some 1920’s influences through the cut, and with the Mohawk I wanted to create an edgy, punk feel.

Describe your perfect Fashion Week experience.

I have worked with Tolu Coker for several seasons and have an amazing relationship with her. I love working on her shows. It’s a true collaboration, where we meet and disuss her ideas and inspirations and I create bespoke hair pieces to complement her designs. She has educated me so much about culture that I have taken and used in my own work. For AW24 I created and dressed 20 wigs in three days!

What can be done to encourage more young people into the industry?

As hairdressers, it’s crucial to transfer our passion and excitement to the younger generation, keeping them motivated and inspired – they are the backbone of our industry and future. One way to do this is by attending open days at schools, where we can educate and inspire students in an environment where everyone feels comftorable.

And these questions from a couple of your peers!

From Naomi Brooks, The Hair Sanctuary, Manchester: When you are going through a creative block, what do you do to get back in the flow and get your creative juices flowing again? 

Hi Naomi! We can all find outselves stuck in a bit of a block from time to time. The first thing I do is take myself out of situation that has caused it. I might go for a walk, or start working on something new. Sometimes, a bit of rest and a change of scenery are just what I need to return to my work with fresh eyes and renewed energy.

From Siobhan Haug, Haug London Haus, London: What’s been your most memorable overseas trip, and why?

Hi Siobhan! A lot of them have been with you ☺…. I will never forget going to Tokyo in 2010 and seeing my avant-garde collection for the first time, live on stage. It was such a proud and honorable moment for me. I will never forget it.

Gorgeously Gritty, Inspiring Vision And Flawless Skill From Richard Phillipart

Gorgeously Gritty, Inspiring Vision And Flawless Skill From Richard Phillipart

Gorgeously Gritty, Inspiring Vision And Flawless Skill From Richard Phillipart

Politics, culture, bygone eras, personal stories it all meshed and motivated Richard Phillipart to create two arresting looks for one of our best-loved Creative HEAD front cover stories back in 2018. This is two minutes of creative genius, and we’re still swooning.  

A Creative HEAD shoot in partnership with BaByliss PRO 

Hair: Richard Phillipart
Make-up: Cat Parnell
Fashion: Mekel Bailey
Videography: Sledge
Photography: Jon Baker
Production: The Creative Partnerships division at Creative HEAD
Shot on location in East London 

 

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