THE MISSION? TO “DECOLONISE” PERCEPTIONS OF TEXTURED HAIR – AND STOP THE SHAME

Apr 22, 2024 | CREATIVE PROJECTS

CREATIVE PROJECTS

THE MISSION? TO "DECOLONISE" PERCEPTIONS OF TEXTURED HAIR – AND STOP THE SHAME

Yasemin Hassan deep dives into her photo series and exhibition Talking Textures – celebrating, educating and redefining the cultural significance of textured hair.

Talking Textures event, April 2024

Curated by barber Yasemin Hassan and captured through the lens of photographer Yeliz Zaifoglu, the photo series and exhibition Talking Textures dives deep into the intricate relationship between beauty, cultural identity, and the resilient nature of hair, especially within the Southwest Asian & North African (SWANA) communities.

Hosted at Ugly Duck London, Yasemin sees Talking Textures as more than an exhibition; it’s a movement to celebrate, educate, and redefine the cultural significance of textured hair. Spanning across 26 photographs, a short video, and a panel discussion that was held on 12 April, the project seeks to bring to light the challenges, beauty rituals, and the profound connection between hair and cultural identity in SWANA regions.

 Yasemin herself has emerged as a pivotal figure for individuals with textured hair in London, particularly within the SWANA community. While that’s thanks in part to extensive experience on high-end fashion shoots and London Fashion Week, it’s also coupled with personal conversations within her community. Her mission is to “decolonise” perceptions of hair and address the underrepresentation of SWANA identities in the hair industry.

Yasemin Hassan

Working closely with Dania Arafeh, founder of 3EIB – a SWANA fashion platform reclaiming the Arabic word 3Eib, meaning ‘shame’ – this project is a reaction to the underlying shame that SWANA individuals often experience from others within their own cultures, as well as what’s taught in the mainstream media about beauty.

Yasemin breaks down the concept behind each image, and the powerful message each shot conveys…

Reclaiming Control
Riyam Salim 

Reclaiming Control
Michaela Mousicous wearing 3EIB 
Hair makes us feel powerful. We use our hair to reclaim our identity. Talking Textures explores this by considering the amount of people that go to a salon after a big life change and want to consolidate this with a drastic hair change. These images in the series are about power and taking control over our hair. 

Carving Imperfections
Ali Nasreldin wearing Mehdi Studio 
The media often idealises the ‘perfect curls’ – no frizz and a solid, clean shape when focusing on afro textures. In the full series of images Talking Textures plays on the phrase ‘bedhead’ to contrast to perfect curls.

Changing Shape
Peyam Zangana   
People with curly hair often talk about it being ‘too big’ and ask me to make their hair sit flatter. In full series collection, Talking Textures celebrates the shape using the concept  of ‘hat hair’, contrasting to this image which is the unrealistic flattened hair shape.

Masking Identity
Eman Alali wearing Isis Dünya 
Many people use hair length and fringes to mask and hide their SWANA features. Talking Textures plays on the use of hair as a mask by using the concept of ‘straggly ends’ to do this.

Embracing Femininity
Tahini Molasses wearing Ziyad Buainain
Talking Textures closes the series by questioning: What is femininity? Does femininity have to be gendered within SWANA communities? Many women idealise long hair as being the height of femininity and beauty. The final set of images through this concept makes the statement that femininity can be unconventional.

Director/curator/lead hair: Yasemin Hassan
Photographer: Yeliz Zaifoglu 
Make-up: Tina Khatri 
Styling: 3EIB / Dania Arafeh
Hair assistants: Shaun Birmingham, Amy Clarke, Matthew Tharp
Shot at Woolf Kings X

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EXAUCÉ IMBO: MY TAKE ON A MID TAPER FADE

Feb 22, 2024 | TECHNIQUES

CATEGORIES > EXPLORE > TECHNIQUES

EXAUCÉ IMBO: MY TAKE ON... AN AFRO MID TAPER FADE

A precision trim given a textural twist, Exauce Imbo – owner of EXSTUDIO barbers – puts his spin on a modern men’s classic.

Exaucé Imbo

“There are a number of variations when it comes to overall style and design features you can add to a mid taper fade to tailor it to your client’s wants and needs. First, on Afro textured men’s hair, shape plays a big role. You can keep the Afro smooth, with a crisp and defined round shape, which gives a clean, classic look that is perhaps more suitable for business professionals. Switching up the shape and introducing more natural texture on the top gives a more relaxed and individual feel to the cut.

“Also, there is the choice of the level where you begin to taper the fade. Despite the name of the cut, you can play with transition height – it doesn’t always have to be ‘mid’ as seen on my client. The option to take the taper higher or lower depending on customer preference can really transform the overall result. On the majority of my haircuts, I like to line up the edges of the hairline to add an extra pop and contrast to the haircut.

“For a modern and younger feel, I like to finish off the styling on mid taper fades using a twist sponge to enhance the individual curl pattern of my client’s hair. First, before using the sponge, I always make sure that the hair is fully combed out and detangled so that it forms neat curls and isn’t picking up damage during styling.

“Personally, I also like to moisturise the hair beforehand with my EXTREATMENT Curl Cream. This extra hydration not only helps to enhance the twists or curls, it makes sure the strands are less prone to breakage and makes the ‘rubbing’ motion which encourages the curl formation much easier.

“I gently rub the sponge against my clients hair in a repeated circular motion, maintaining the same direction of movement all over the head. I start by focussing on the tips of the hair, gradually applying more pressure as I get deeper into the Afro.

“The key is to not press down too harshly, as that can cause the hair to break and to keep pressure uniform so that the curls form evenly. You then just keep rubbing until you have created the desired look you are after!”