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“I Wanted To Be Somewhere Where Everything Is Designed For Me, The Hairdresser”

“I Wanted To Be Somewhere Where Everything Is Designed For Me, The Hairdresser”

“I Wanted To Be Somewhere Where Everything Is Designed For Me, The Hairdresser”

Inside Host Manchester, the brainchild of scalp bleach expert Sarah Louise Keane.

by KELSEY | CREATIVE PROJECTS

Located just minutes from Manchester Piccadilly on historic Ducie Street, Host Manchester offers hairdressers a home-from-home – a bespoke space which puts their craft firmly in the spotlight. Set in the iconic former ‘Home’ nightclub, the space captures the spirit of innovation and individuality, packed with unique details and nods to Mancunian culture, like the carefully curated prints seen on the gallery walls.

Spanning two floors, the light, spacious space is the epitome of thoughtful design, with every detail considered with the hairdresser in mind.  “The biggest thing for me – not just as someone who teaches who needs a space designed for that – but as a hairdresser who works for herself, I wanted to be somewhere where everything is designed for me, the hairdresser,” Sarah says. “As nice as it is to have a dimly lit backwash, if you can’t see what you’re doing, it’s not ideal,” she adds, laughing.

The three key areas which the space addresses are light, layout and the backwash area. First and foremost, there are massive windows which span both floors. There are also 36 Daylight Bars that mimic natural light, ensuring perfect visibility no matter the weather – ideal for the many days of rain that Manchester is known for!

The backwash areas are strategically placed to maximise the benefits of natural light upstairs, while downstairs, the event and education space has been designed for creativity and learning.

The hairdressing stations have also been carefully positioned to take full advantage of the natural light flooding, ensuring that every station is bathed in optimal light. The thoughtful placement also encourages collaboration through an open, inviting atmosphere. “We wanted to create a space where everyone can come together – whether that’s a hairdresser working behind the chair, someone who does education, or people like Peter [Host’s co-founder], who wants to have a branded event,” Sarah explains. “We can do it all under one roof!”

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“I Am 100 Per Cent Confident In Saying That We Lead The Way In Extensions”

“I Am 100 Per Cent Confident In Saying That We Lead The Way In Extensions”

“I Am 100 Per Cent Confident In Saying That We Lead The Way In Extensions”

Victoria Lynch has been ‘doing hair’ since she was 13. But spotting a gap in the extensions market back in 2003 propelled her to the forefront of the industry, running a hair extensions business, Additional Lengths, worth millions. Creative HEAD sat down with the North East-based entrepreneur as she embarks on the next ambitious phase of her business.

by CATHERINE | DOCUMENTS

Victoria Lynch

Victoria Lynch, founder of Additional Lengths and Remi Cachet

There’s a page on the Additional Lengths website called Victoria Lynch’s Hair Story and it makes fascinating reading. It’s a look back at the brand founder’s journey from doing family and friends’ hair at age 13 in her parents’ spare bedroom to building a UK-leading hair extensions empire in a global market that’s projected to grow from $4.8bn in 2024 to $10.78bn by 2032. It’s a tale of ingenuity, bravery, sacrifice and resilience that few would be capable of – and sends out a clear message that Victoria Lynch is a force to be reckoned with.

When you look back on your business, what do you see?

I’ve seen the journey go from nothing to absolutely blowing up globally. Aesthetics have become part of our DNA and we’re living in a world now where there’s no taboo about anything. It’s okay to have a face lift and a nose job. Hair extensions and wigs have become part of normal life. I can leave the house in the morning without make-up so long as my hair looks good.

You launched Additional Lengths in 2003 selling hair extensions directly to consumers. At what point did you decide to supply to hair professionals?

Additional Lengths was started as a small business primarily to cater to my own needs. Ten years down the line, when hair extensions were still very much in their infancy, I wanted to expand, but Additional Lengths was known as a budget range and I knew I would need something different to attract high-calibre trade professionals.

And the only way I could achieve that was to create something new that could hit the ground running because of the knowledge, experience and supply base that I had built up by then. I knew how to research and develop products, I knew what to look for in terms of quality, delivery, specifications. And I knew I could tailor everything to a professional audience and show up with what they needed before they knew they needed it! So, that’s how and why Remi Cachet came about. I let it look as if Additional Lengths was the official authorised distributor of this amazing new brand on the block, but in reality Remi Cachet is not a business – it’s a brand that I own under the Additional Lengths umbrella.

You started Additional Lengths with a £1,500 loan from the Princes Trust and went on to report sales of £17.6m in 2023. What has driven that growth?

Our innovations lead the way. And I am 100 per cent confident in saying that we do lead the way in extensions. If there is something we don’t do, it’s because it’s a gimmick; it’s not a longterm solution for clients and stylists. I’m very big on sustainability and recyclability, especially when it comes to raw hair. It takes five years to grow 20-inch hair, so if someone removes it after a few months, disposes of it and buys new hair, that’s not okay. I could sell twice as much if I encouraged that cycle of replace, replace, but for me it’s not about the money, it’s about how I impact and show up in the industry. My background is extensions, I’m a Level 3 hairdresser, I’m a qualified educator and I’m very industry-focused. I see it as my responsibility, as an industry leader, to help the next generation flourish in their business by delivering a product that makes their clients feel like they’ve got a return on investment too. The priority for me is quality and creating a product that is reusable time and time again.

As the market grows, does it get more cut-throat, too?

It has become very competitive. I’ve had to get design protections on certain products I’ve created because we add new products colours to our portfolio, but then people copy us left, right and centre. But that doesn’t bother me because it sits well with who we believe we are, which is the natural born leader of hair extensions. Everyone in the industry knows we’ve been the first to launch major changes.

The market has become saturated with so many new brands coming in, but at the same time, some of what used to be the bigger names have faded into the background because they didn’t evolve in the way their customers needed them to. These businesses are not being run by hair professionals but by business people who don’t understand the needs of their customers.

Victoria is determined to be transparent about the supply chain behind her business

Your extensions brand Remi Cachet is currently going through a major rebrand. Why now, and what do you hope to achieve?

Over the last eight, nine years we have evolved, but not from a colour palette or logo point of view and so we needed an update there. But in terms of sustainability things had to change, too, and we’re looking at our packaging and asking ourselves what materials we can tap into so we can meet our sustainability targets. But in all honesty, this is less about what the packaging looks like – as a brand we don’t need to put glitter or polish on anything – it’s about the product inside, and we’re keeping our customers updated as we go along about the changes they can expect.

You’ve posted a video on your socials that deals with your supply chain and how Remi Cachet products are sourced and produced. This full transparency approach is quite rare in extensions, so why have you gone for it?

I think being honest and transparent is the best policy and it’s why I am respected by and have such a good rapport with hair professionals. They don’t just want me to inspire them, they rely on me and my brands to grow their businesses, and they’re able to do this because we offer them an ethical, transparent alternative that their clients want and need. It’s why I focus more on the trade side of things because consumers are not loyal – they will buy from wherever they see the best deal is. Whereas, when you give  professionals what they need and they know they can’t get anything better, they will keep coming back. And that’s how businesses grow, so collectively we’ve grown together.

Training is such a big part of extensions but traditionally usually paid for by the salon owner. With so many hair pros freelance now, are your training programmes taking a hit?

Far from it. What we’re seeing is individuals coming on our courses who want to invest in themselves or their business because it brings so many rewards. The benefit of having hair extensions within your offering is that when a business gets challenged – for example, by clients stretching out that time between appointments, or when something like the Budget adds extra costs to your overheads – you will always have more bums on seats because you deliver more services and you can cater to a wider audience. So, extensions are going to help you get through those economic downturns. If you don’t evolve as an individual and offer more, you’re always going to restrict your own growth.

You’ve come a long way since setting up in your parents’ spare bedroom. What does a working day look like for you nowadays?

Well, I’m busy leading a senior leadership team, a board, 40 employees… I have meetings coming out of my ears right now [laughs]! I’m focusing on our growth in the US, which is where I need to be, where the business needs me, so we’ve just taken on a brand ambassador, Sarah Ashley, who’s been advocating Remi Cachet for years now, and we’re doing lots of the trade shows – we launched in Orlando and we’ve just done San Antonio, then we’ll do Anaheim in February, Chicago in April, then it’s back to Orlando in June. And so the cycle begins again!

Have you ever taken on investors within your business?

I do have investors, but not because the business needed money. Our investors are Growth Partner and they have a minority stake in the business, so I’m still very much in charge and driving the business. But the reason I went with Growth Partner is because it’s headed up by [HomeServe founder] Richard Harpin, who recently sold his business for £4bn. His entrepreneurship is very different to how private equity look at things, which is to strip everything back to the bones, remove the people, the quality, the culture, and then sell it on. And I wouldn’t allow that in my business because for the last 20 years I’ve been about quality and delivery and no price tag is going to determine my choices there.

But especially now where we have our sights set on the US, and it’s about deciding when we register our entity, what’s the trigger point for getting a distribution base out there and all these big decisions… I was thinking, ‘I can’t keep banging this drum on my own forever’. So, at some point I had to let someone in the door.

I’ve never worked in a business or corporation where I’ve been mentored and coached, and the reason I’ve let Growth Partner into my business is to tap into their experience, their networks and to be able to share my thoughts and ideas with a board or pick up the phone and ask for help or advice.

And the reality is that working with Richard, having exposure to a whole new world of people that I simply didn’t have access to being trapped in my own world up in the North East, it’s given me a new level of aspiration. I really do need to think about the future now. I am getting older, and what does the future look like? If I could achieve a fraction of what he’s achieved, and be able to have that true work-life balance one day, be able to repay my family for all the sacrifices they’ve made by investing in them, that would be incredible.

‘Ethereal’ by Heffy Wheeler

‘Ethereal’ by Heffy Wheeler

‘Ethereal’ by Heffy Wheeler

The latest collection from Heffy Wheeler combines vivid colours with a commercial finish, styled using Diva Professional tools.  

HAIR: Heffy Wheeler, Hx Hair 

TOOLS: Diva Pro Styling 

PHOTOGRAPHY: Desmond Murray

MAKE-UP: Amalie Russell 

LOCATION: Grid Studios

 

 

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Mark Sherwood and Augusto Miranda at Zeba Hairdressing challenge beauty norms with the “Upheaval” for L’Oreal Professionnel shoot.

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Mark Sherwood and Augusto Miranda at Zeba Hairdressing challenge beauty norms with the “Upheaval” for L’Oreal Professionnel shoot.

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Mark Sherwood and Augusto Miranda at Zeba Hairdressing challenge beauty norms with the “Upheaval” for L’Oreal Professionnel shoot.

“Going Grey Is Fine If A Client Suits Grey Hair, But They Are The Exception”

“Going Grey Is Fine If A Client Suits Grey Hair, But They Are The Exception”

“Going Grey Is Fine If A Client Suits Grey Hair, But They Are The Exception”

Salon owner Gustav Fouche discusses the pros and cons of clients transitioning to grey and why ‘growing old gracefully’ isn’t the same for everyone

by KELSEY | CONVERSATIONS

bebop team members
Gustav Fouche
“I always say going grey is fine if a client suits grey hair, but they are the exception. For most people, they see ‘going grey’ as just leaving the hair to go grey naturally, which doesn’t work, because it doesn’t suit the skin tone. It requires work to make grey hair look good.”

“More and more, I see other hairdressers suggesting clients transition to grey but that massively impacts business. All of a sudden, clients think, ‘Oh, we can just leave our hair.’ It encourages them to leave the salon and do nothing with their hair going forward. The result? You have regulars who used to visit every six weeks now no longer visiting at all.”

“A lot of people discuss growing old gracefully, but what does that even mean? It’s each person’s individual wants and needs. For my clients, I encourage them to be outrageous. I love outrageous. Let’s shock the people. When people walk in the street, let them look at us, be quirky and bring out all your uniqueness. That’s what I love. If your uniqueness is to be very Chanel, then that’s fine. And if your uniqueness is to be very Alexander McQueen, then that is also okay. But let’s bring some personality, whatever level of scale that is, let’s encourage clients to show it in their looks, whatever their age.”

“Really look at your client. To give them the most flattering result possible, the perfect grey requires salon services. That may not be every six weeks, but rather an appointment every eight to 10 weeks (or at the most four times a year) to make the grey creamier, to add texture or whatever is required for them to look amazing.”

“A lot of people discuss growing old gracefully, but what does that even mean? It’s each person’s individual wants and needs.”

“We need to look at ways to keep them coming back – it’s the same for balayage clients! If you only see a client once in four months, do you realise how many clients you need to see to actually have a full diary? On a typical day, if you see six clients and they come every four months across a five-day working week, that is 30 clients. If you think of this across a four-month cycle, that’s 500 people that you need to have as clients. That is massive for a general diary, which is typically 180 clients. The reality is you would need to see double the number of clients to have the same outcome.”

Gustav with his client June

“As an industry, we need to look at how we will survive. I have grey-haired clients, but they will see me for a gloss, toner or neutralisation. They do not leave their hair to its own devices. Look at each client as an individual and see what you can do to enhance because every single client’s hair can be enhanced. And it may be very subtle. Speak to your clients – find out what they like and what they dislike – and tap into what makes them unique. The key is offering bespoke services tailored to their needs.”

Gustav’s salon

“A lot of my older clients now have a pink or purple piece in their hair, and that is the attitude that we should embrace. Let’s uplift people. Let’s take them to a place where they can stand and look and just be happy and confident. I think women are the best things ever, and we as hairdressers should celebrate them and help them grow in confidence by bringing out that inner reliance in them. I think that is is the true skill that hairdressers have.”

“The Important Thing Is Giving People The Freedom To Express Themselves”

“The Important Thing Is Giving People The Freedom To Express Themselves”

“The Important Thing Is Giving People The Freedom To Express Themselves”

Pont Smith and Chloe Herve’s ethics-first business ethos has taken their bebop salon brand from tiny start-up to an award-winning mega-space that’s on the radar of major fashion brands.

by CATHERINE | DOCUMENTS

bebop team members

The bebop team set the mood – and the clients love it

Launched by Pont Smith and Chloe Herve in 2017, bebop is an industry success story – a bright, airy salon in London’s Holloway with a brilliant vibe, great music and a team of big, colourful personalities, who, alongside hair and nail services, do a roaring trade in tooth gems. People love the quirkiness. Two-and-a-half years ago, bebop had to expand into sizeable new premises to cope with surging client demand. In the last 12 months it’s made the Best London Hair Salon list in TimeOut magazine and won Best Salon Team at Creative HEAD’s Most Wanted awards.

We’re not surprised. Because if you ever needed an example of a modern, forward-thinking hairdressing business with a completely fresh approach to creativity, teamwork and clients, bebop is it. Chloe and Pont have built their brand carefully and ethically from day one, pioneering gender-neutral pricing and eco-conscious practices long before they were trendy and priding themselves on providing inclusive, super-friendly service and a buzzing atmosphere in the salon. Their overriding ethos? “Treat other people the way you would want to be treated yourself.”

Pont Smith

Pont Smith

“When Chloe and I went into business there was a lot of stuff that we’d always moaned about in our own careers, so we made a pact that we would never do that to anyone else,” says Pont. “Listening and communication are such a big thing with us and expressing thanks as well. We know we are lucky we’ve got such good stylists with us, and we couldn’t be where we are without them, so gratitude’s a big one and just trusting them as well.”

The bebop team is undoubtedly a big part of the brand’s success – a bunch of 22 charismatic extroverts that clients love to be around. But with the vast majority declaring some form of neuro-divergency, Pont and Chloe have had to figure out a different way of working to create the perfect environment for them to feel comfortable.

“Our business model has always been quite open – everyone’s individual and that’s how I try to run the business. So, if someone wants to do four days, they work four days. If someone wants to be employed, they can be. It’s kind of down to them. With mental health being such a big issue, I think you need a bit more freedom nowadays, you can’t put everyone in the same box. And while it can be a bit chaotic at times, the team genuinely care about what they do, they’re completely invested in it and they work really hard at it, too.”

“Our business model has always been quite open – everyone’s individual and I want us to reflect that”

While Chloe takes care of the numbers in the business, Pont, whose background is in education, takes care of the people – but with such big characters to deal with, he admits he’s got his work cut out. “Team meetings can be quite taxing!” he smiles. “But the important thing is giving people the freedom to express themselves. Creating the right atmosphere is key when you’re dealing with neuro-divergency and that trickles down from the top. I spend time making sure I’m mentally fit and kind on myself because that works down to the guys on the floor. And our atmosphere is what the clients really enjoy and comment on.”

bebop at Most Wanted Grand Final

bebop strike a pose at the 2024 Most Wanted Grand Final

When Chloe and Pont launched their business, they talked about flipping the hair industry on its head. “We wanted to do everything differently,” says Pont. “We wanted to think the opposite of what the industry was thinking – it’s the only way to make the industry grow.” When, after two-and-a-half years, bebop moved into its current, much bigger premises, a key part of the vision was to use the space for events and to create a sense of community among London salons that they felt was lacking back then. The salon’s pub quizzes, led by the team, are legendary (a recent St Patrick’s Day edition saw clients buying tables and staff pulling pints of Guinness), and the bebop Hair Jam, where the team invites 12 hairstylists from all over the UK and Europe to showcase their work (“There’s no judgment, no competition, we’re all just there having a good time looking at good work and sharing ideas and networking”), is fast becoming a recognised annual industry event.

bebop salon

bebop’s salon doubles up as an event space

Collaborations are another line of interest. In May 2023 bebop were approached by SSHH Ltd, the creative agency for the Kickers shoe brand, who were gearing up to relaunch the Kade shoe and saw bebop as the ideal venue to captivate the youthful, fashion-forward target market. The salon was transformed into a vibrant showcase for fashion, fun and creativity, with DJs providing the sounds, attendees hitting the dancefloor, and the bebop team providing hairstyling with colourful hair beads, exclusive nail art and tooth gem installations. “I never see hair salons collaborating with big brands like that,” says Pont. “It was a lot of hard work because we’re such a small team to be working out all the logistics and stuff, but it was a cool thing to be part of and our team loved it.”  The team is now planning a collaboration with homeless charity Crisis, as well as exploring opportunities with other clothing brands. “We’re just figuring things out with them, seeing whether there’s a good fit,” says Pont.

“I spend time making sure I’m mentally fit and kind on myself because that works down to the guys on the floor”

Looking to the future, bebop is all about pushing the boundaries of what a salon can be. The business has set up an online shop selling a range of bebop merchandise, including neon mugs, logo T-shirts and a bebop camo cap that sold out within days (such are the benefits of having a clientele that can’t get enough of you!). “We’re even considering creating our own product line,” says Pont. “Our dream is to see bebop’s concept take off in different parts of the world.”