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“The Met Gala Is The Exception To The Rule” – Halley Brisker On Styling At Fashion’s Big Night Of The Year

“The Met Gala Is The Exception To The Rule” – Halley Brisker On Styling At Fashion’s Big Night Of The Year

“THE MET GALA IS THE EXCEPTION TO THE RULE” – HALLEY BRISKER ON STYLING AT FASHION’S BIG NIGHT OF THE YEAR

The session stylist reveals the military-grade planning necessary for the iconic first Monday in May event.

Halley Brisker

Halley Brisker

We’ve all cooed and dissected the looks from this year’s Met Gala, the most photographed red carpet in the world, second only to The Oscars. But what is it like to work it as a session stylist? Halley Brisker – on hand to style Lily James and Eve Hewson for the 2024 Garden of Time-themed event – lifts the lid… 

“Traditionally a fundraiser for the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume institute in New York, the Met Gala has now morphed into a global fashion event headed up by Anna Wintour, who supposedly oversees personally every single outfit worn by the attendees. What does such a night mean for the attendees and the hair, make-up and styling teams that take part? 

“This was my third year and each one tends to play out much the same – my job is often done with little time for organisation. Sometimes I know what I’m doing several weeks in advance; sometimes I can have as little as 24 hours to prepare! However, the Met Gala is the exception to the rule. 

“I often know six months or more in advance if any of my clients will attend. For an event that demands the attendance of the world’s most influential and well-known faces, military precision is required if one is hoping to get them all in one building, in one city, on one night of the year. 

Hair, make-up and styling are also appreciative of this long lead time as there are not enough of us to go around on Met Monday in New York! This is a night that the attending talent hope to be able to have their most trusted teams; often a scuffle can ensue in terms of making sure you can secure the people that make you look and feel your best on such an important night. 

Preparation begins months in advance, with first sketches of outfits. This helps start a conversation among the team and talent once everybody is confirmed. The more open to idea sharing, creative direction and progression of ideas you can be with one another, the more exciting the creative journey will be. It tends to be a busy WhatsApp thread 

Halley Brisker's moodboard

Halley’s mood board and final look for Eve Hewson

Fittings will take place as outfits are brought to life. Directions can and usually will change, but I like to begin my prep with large format mood boarding based on the theme of the year and the initial idea references that the team have put forward. Sometimes it can just be a feeling that my client wants to embody or bring to life. This moodboarding comprises searches for fairly abstract references across multiple mediums, and everybody on the team takes a look and asks for things that stand out. Once I get a feeling for that, I can begin narrowing down my final board which I use on Met Monday.   

“Most teams will make their way to New York (if they aren’t already based there) on the Friday or Saturday. This gives everybody time to settle in and leaves Sunday for some final prep. If possible, I love to squeeze in a hair test on the Sunday night. Going into The Met having had a quick run-through pays huge dividends – I’m somebody who likes to be organised, otherwise I can’t relax. There are two well-established hotels that host most of the talent, literally across the road from one another – very handy if you have more than one client at separate locations.  

Victoria Panting working

Halley working with Lily James

“This is a night that the attending talent hope to be able to have their most trusted teams; often a scuffle can ensue in terms of making sure you can secure the people that make you look and feel your best on such an important night.”

Halley Brisker

“This year I was getting both Lily James and Eve Hewson ready, which if scheduling is executed well is achievable with a good assistant. There are some artists that will attempt more than two people… If your cortisol levels are manageable and you have a fetish for stress, then this might be for you, but it isn’t for the faint of heart!  

Content is king, so you can expect a constant stream of brand partners in the get ready suite along with publications like Vogue and Vanity Fair dropping in, all to create content. That is why for The Met we will always allow at least double the prep time of any other event – four or five hours is not uncommon. We’re creating the most immaculate finishes, if not the most creative looks, so time to do this while everybody involved is able to work their magic and collect their content is vital. It also helps to reduce that rush to the finish line talent often need to be sewn into custom couture before final touches and pictures… Trust me, time flies on Met Monday!

Military precision of production doesn’t end at the hotel suite door. A cavalcade of sprinter vans line up around the block for specific timeslots for each talent attending and a sea of paparazzi wait outside the two hotels, backed by screaming fans. Usually, the team and I enjoy a celebratory drink while we wait for our clients to return – we can hang out and debrief a little before sending off the talent to the after parties, sometimes with a change of hair and makeup look. Once the kit chaos is finally packed up and Im in a taxi looking forward to crawling into my hotel bed in the small hours 

Halley backstage with Lily James 

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“TO PARTNER WITH DIOR IS A DREAM COME TRUE” – HAYDEN CASSIDY ON THE MODERN POWER OF THE BARBER

Dior’s new UK grooming expert talks connections, Guinness and being ready for when Johnny Depp calls… 

Hayden Cassidy working
Hayden Cassidy
When a young footballing Hayden Cassidy broke her leg while on a US college scholarship – signalling the end of her playing career – she probably wouldn’t have predicted where she would be today. In a move that underpins an important statement on the place of women in the traditionally male-dominated world of barbering, Hayden has been unveiled as Dior UK’s grooming expert. Let that sink in for a moment…

It seemed a stretch when Hayden saw an email in her inbox in January last year from the Dior beauty team (she thought it was spam and ignored it). They chased her on Instagram, keen to discuss working together. The fashion and beauty giant had been impressed by what they had seen of the Dublin born, London-based barber across social media, working across editorial, education, with musicians and behind the chair with a laser focus on fusing
barbering with fashion.

Let’s not forget, she won The It Girl at the 2020 It List awards, such was her impression on the judges. She was also one of the stars of The Industry’s Not Just A Hairdresser campaign in 2022, showcasing perfectly the thrilling and creative possibilities of a career in hair beyond the expected. It’s been clear that Hayden Cassidy was always going to stand out…

Hayden Cassidy
Pierre Mouton for Parfums Christian Dior
Dior has commented on how Hayden “strives to push the boundaries of men’s grooming while showcasing her signature clean, contemporary and detailed style” – the reason why she is the ideal expert for Dior to partner and work closely together with over the next year. Her creative vision and skills will be on hand for editorial, digital, influencer and celebrity projects, with her aligned with Dior’s Sauvage line. 

Hayden has deemed the partnership as “a dream come true”, and her expertise for Dior has seen her featured already in high profile pieces in the Financial Times, Wonderland and the ES Magazine. 

“Where do men get a lot of their grooming tips from? They don’t go into shops, and they don’t search on articles or magazines, they look to their trusted barber,” says Hayden. For so long, barbers haven’t really been given those opportunities when it comes to fashion and editorial work. As a luxury brand, it’s been incredible for Dior to recognise the barber as someone that has that information, and given that title. What’s really exciting is that it’s a new role for both myself and Dior. They’re really open to working side by side, more of a collaboration.” That’s already meant trips to Paris, including a tour of the Dior archives and gallery (“a ‘pinch me moment!”)  

Photography by Declan Kelly (@declankelly)
Does she see Dior’s choice of a female barber as a grooming expert, sharing techniques and advice across social media and editorial, as important? “Definitely, it shows how the industry has evolved. From going into what people might think is quite an intimidating, male-dominated industry to getting opportunities like this. I’m not saying I’m a hairstylist; I’m a barber. It’s something that I never shied away from.  

 “A few years ago, everybody tried to drop the barber term. But there’s something about history and heritage in the barbering culture that I fell in love with, the classic shaves. I’ll be the first to admit that I’ve always said I hated going into a salon, that never attracted me. Barbering has this ritual; it feels like a sacred practice.” 

The Dior gig comes at a time of exciting change for Hayden. Having outgrown her Hackney studio unit, she’s recently set up a larger collaborative space in London Fields called Croí (pronounced ‘kree’, it’s Gaelic for ‘heart’), where clients can chill out, guest artists can work (Dublin colourist Sara Hurley has visited) and other creatives can host pop-ups (two of Hayden’s friends – a jeweller and a designer – have already done just that).  

“Where do men get a lot of their grooming tips from? They don’t go into shops, and they don’t search on articles or magazines, they look to their trusted barber.”

Hayden Cassidy

 “It still feels intimate, comfortable and welcoming. I get recommended by barbers in Ireland to clients moving over here, and the barber might be the first person they meet in this scary big city. It’s always been important for me to be that connection that people have, where they can feel welcome. And where they can get their recommendations for a good pint of Guinness!” Indeed, she has a list of perfect pub pourers divided into north, south, east and west London. 

She’s still educating – this year has included Mexico and Italy – but she’s also learning how not to say yes to everything. “I’m open to every opportunity but my studio is fully booked three weeks in advance, and I’m a little bit on call with Dior. If Johnny Depp needs grooming for an event, I have to jump on a plane and be there! I do also need time to sit down and just enjoy my successes. I’m so hyper, I love doing a million things. But I’m in such a happy place when I’m behind the chair with my clients, in my own space, having a connection and that chat… and that’s something hopefully that I’ll have forever.”   

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The biggest mistake I see is hairdressers not taking enough time in the consultation to thoroughly understand the investment the client has in their hair. To clarify, when we are talking about ‘investment’, in this scenario we are talking about the financial investment and time invested. It is vital to understand this from the perspective of your client from the get-go to prevent any change of direction mid-appointment.

Let’s start with financial investment. This topic should always be handled sensitively, and I always like to give a personal tip – do not judge a book by its cover. 

Have an open conversation with your client about how much they have budgeted for their hair today; this will help you understand their financial comfort level. By having this conversation, you may find that what they want to achieve doesn’t sit within their budget,
so it allows you to recommend an alternative service. 

Other things to consider when discussing financial investment in hair with your client are how much your client has budgeted for haircare to maintain their colour. This means it’s more important to educate your client on the importance of home maintenance.

It’s also important to find out how often your client can afford to visit the salon for colour refreshes. Recommend a service with maintenance that matches their budget.

Next, let’s consider investment in time. How much time can your client invest in their hair? Today – if they are tight on time, can we achieve what they want within that time?

Victoria Panting working

This also relates to appointment frequency – ask yourself will this service require a monthly visit to the salon, is this a realistic expectation for your client? If not, will an alternative service provide the longevity your client is looking for?

Finally, can you recommend any retail products which will help the client to maintain their look at home at a time and frequency that suits them? Setting realistic expectations when it comes to ‘investments’ is vital to a happy client.

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