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Focus On: Efi Davies – The Avant-Garde Supremo Who Just Made The 2024 Most Wanted Hair Icon Shortlist

Focus On: Efi Davies – The Avant-Garde Supremo Who Just Made The 2024 Most Wanted Hair Icon Shortlist

0{{current_slide_index}}/0{{total_slide_count}} EFI DAVIES [Why Toni&Guy’s International Artistic Director has her eye permanently on the next generation.] View photos

Focus On: Efi Davies – The Avant-Garde Supremo Who Just Made The 2024 Most Wanted Hair Icon Shortlist

Why Toni&Guy’s International Artistic Director has her eye permanently on the next generation.

by ATHERINEEXPLORE > PORTFOLIOS

 

Toni&Guy’s International Artistic Director, head of the Avant-Garde and Long Hair Departments and leader of the Session & Editorial and Styling & Finishing courses, and now taking her place on Most Wanted’s prestigious Hair Icon shortlist for the first time… It’s fair to say that Efi Davies is one of the industry’s most impressive creative talents.

An innovator whose mastery of braiding and hair up styles knows no bounds, Efi is pivotal when it comes to conceptualising and art-directing the editorial and avant-garde concepts within Toni&Guy’s global collections and campaigns, working closely with Global Brand Director Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck and Global Creative Director Cos Sakkas (who is also on the Hair Icon list).

But none of it would have happened if Greek-born Efi hadn’t decided 25 years ago to pay a visit to her sister in London… Instantly hooked by the fashion and music scene, Efi took a job as an assistant at Toni&Guy, where founder Toni Mascolo took her under his wing and ignited her dream of pushing boundaries within the industry. 

Creative HEAD caught up with this incredible artist as she took a break from Fashion Week…

 

Toni&Guy’s International Artistic Director, head of the Avant-Garde and Long Hair Departments and leader of the Session & Editorial and Styling & Finishing courses, and now taking her place on Most Wanted’s prestigious Hair Icon shortlist for the first time… It’s fair to say that Efi Davies is one of the industry’s most impressive creative talents.

An innovator whose mastery of braiding and hair up styles knows no bounds, Efi is pivotal when it comes to conceptualising and art-directing the editorial and avant-garde concepts within Toni&Guy’s global collections and campaigns, working closely with Global Brand Director Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck and Global Creative Director Cos Sakkas (who is also on the Hair Icon list).

But none of it would have happened if Greek-born Efi hadn’t decided 25 years ago to pay a visit to her sister in London… Instantly hooked by the fashion and music scene, Efi took a job as an assistant at Toni&Guy, where founder Toni Mascolo took her under his wing and ignited her dream of pushing boundaries within the industry. 

Creative HEAD caught up with this incredible artist as she took a break from Fashion Week…

What would you say are your strongest points as a hair artist?

Oh, that’s not a very easy question to answer… I try not to repeat myself and like consistently to evolve and come up with new ideas to share. I love pushing the boundaries of traditional hairdressing, constantly experimenting with something  unique. It doesn’t happen very often but it’s all about experimenting, right?

Do you have such a thing as a typical week? If so, what does it look like?

No two weeks are the same. Whether teaching at the Academy, working backstage at a show or on set on a collection, I strive to transfer my skills, knowledge and experience to the young creatives around me, who I expect one day will go on to make my work seem old-fashioned. Every week brings its own challenges and opportunities, so life is always unique and interesting.

You’re the International Artistic Director at Toni&Guy, which is a REALLY BIG DEAL. What elements of your role give you the most satisfaction?

It’s the opportunities to inspire and be inspired, the ability to mentor and nurture new talent, and the chance to innovate within the industry. I have lived the dream and hope that it’s now my turn to pass on the torch.

These images are from my current collection using macramé techniques on synthetic hair that I melted and stretched to create beautiful bob shapes, precisely interlacing the models’natural hair to sit how I wanted it. It creates a poetic yet futuristic feel.

The last three weeks (or months): where have you been, who have you worked with, and what have you been planning?

The last few weeks have been packed full of creative shooting and prep days. We have been heavily involved with London Fashion Week Men’s and were a part of the British Fashion Council’s 40 Years of London Fashion Week exhibition. I had the honour of having two of my avant-garde creations on display that celebrated Toni&Guy’s 20-year partnership with the British Fashion Council.

Looking back, who/what has got you to this point in your career?

A lot of hard work and determination. Every origin story requires a bit of magic and mine came in the shape of Anthony and Toni Mascolo. I will be eternally grateful to them both for seeing something in me, taking me under their wing and, through the sheer power of their own passion, opening my eyes to the idea of innovation and creative vision within the industry. Also to our CEO, Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck, who has been behind me throughout my career, giving me amazing opportunities and encourouging me in everything I do.

I have worked with Tolu Coker for several seasons and have an amazing relationship with her. I create bespoke hair pieces and headdresses to complement her collections and love being educated on her culture and how I can follow it through into the hair.
This image shows one of my favourite moments from last fashion week in February. The Toni&Guy Session Team and I created beautiful clean yet edgy finger waves. Everything was tailored to the individual model, which made it look really natural.
This is ‘New Wave’ from the Toni&Guy 2007 Kaizen collection. It was the first haircut I did for a Toni&Guy collection and I absolutely adore this image.

Your ultimate creative collaboration – what would that look like? Who would be in it?

Throughout my career I have had the priviledge to work with incredible people – stylists, photographers, make up artists and designers – and I am grateful to them all for their friendship and influence. 

What excites you about hairdressing right now?

The continuous education and sharing of knowledge within the industry. Whether through demos or social media platforms, the constant exchange of new ideas and techniques helps us all to evolve and push the boundaries of what we can achieve in hairdressing.

What frustrates you about hairdressing right now?

The decline of the younger generation. Less and less  Not enough young people coming into our industry.

What’s your opinion on why so many hair pros work for free backstage and on set, and how do you think they can establish more value for the work they do?

Many in the hair industry are driven by passion and a love for their craft, so find themselves agreeing to work for free. While it’s okay to do that occasionally and it gives you great experience, it’s really important to make sure you get proper credit for your work and that your contributions are acknowledged. It’s also important to keep a strong image bank of work to document your work across social media as much as possible!

This image is from my avant-garde Crystal collection from 2010. It is very important to me because it’s created from the model’s natural hair, using a boning technique to create structure and add height
These pictures are from a shoot I did for the Journal Magazine with David Mannah. I trapped the hair inside of resin, pushing the boundaries to create something cool. The futuristic bob incorporates some 1920’s influences through the cut, and with the Mohawk I wanted to create an edgy, punk feel.

Describe your perfect Fashion Week experience.

I have worked with Tolu Coker for several seasons and have an amazing relationship with her. I love working on her shows. It’s a true collaboration, where we meet and disuss her ideas and inspirations and I create bespoke hair pieces to complement her designs. She has educated me so much about culture that I have taken and used in my own work. For AW24 I created and dressed 20 wigs in three days!

What can be done to encourage more young people into the industry?

As hairdressers, it’s crucial to transfer our passion and excitement to the younger generation, keeping them motivated and inspired – they are the backbone of our industry and future. One way to do this is by attending open days at schools, where we can educate and inspire students in an environment where everyone feels comftorable.

And these questions from a couple of your peers!

From Naomi Brooks, The Hair Sanctuary, Manchester: When you are going through a creative block, what do you do to get back in the flow and get your creative juices flowing again? 

Hi Naomi! We can all find outselves stuck in a bit of a block from time to time. The first thing I do is take myself out of situation that has caused it. I might go for a walk, or start working on something new. Sometimes, a bit of rest and a change of scenery are just what I need to return to my work with fresh eyes and renewed energy.

From Siobhan Haug, Haug London Haus, London: What’s been your most memorable overseas trip, and why?

Hi Siobhan! A lot of them have been with you ☺…. I will never forget going to Tokyo in 2010 and seeing my avant-garde collection for the first time, live on stage. It was such a proud and honorable moment for me. I will never forget it.

Gorgeously Gritty, Inspiring Vision And Flawless Skill From Richard Phillipart

Gorgeously Gritty, Inspiring Vision And Flawless Skill From Richard Phillipart

Gorgeously Gritty, Inspiring Vision And Flawless Skill From Richard Phillipart

Politics, culture, bygone eras, personal stories it all meshed and motivated Richard Phillipart to create two arresting looks for one of our best-loved Creative HEAD front cover stories back in 2018. This is two minutes of creative genius, and we’re still swooning.  

A Creative HEAD shoot in partnership with BaByliss PRO 

Hair: Richard Phillipart
Make-up: Cat Parnell
Fashion: Mekel Bailey
Videography: Sledge
Photography: Jon Baker
Production: The Creative Partnerships division at Creative HEAD
Shot on location in East London 

 

Lauren Bell the Coterie: In Session
Lauren Bell The Coterie: In Session
Lauren Bell The Coterie: In Session

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“This Has Been A Dream Job” – Hair Stylist Farida Ghwedar Shares Her Secrets From The Bridgerton Set

“This Has Been A Dream Job” – Hair Stylist Farida Ghwedar Shares Her Secrets From The Bridgerton Set

“This Has Been A Dream Job” – Hair Stylist Farida Ghwedar Shares Her Secrets From The Bridgerton Set

Bridgerton hair looks are trending big time – discover what it’s really like to work as part of the hair and make-up team on set.

Farida Ghwedar

What was the career journey leading up to working on Bridgerton? To style the hair and wigs for three leading ladies in series two and three is beyond impressive…
Oh, thank you so much! I feel incredibly lucky, this has been a dream job. I studied film at university and after some time working at a watch repairs, I knew I needed a practical course to enter the industry. I loved make-up and thought that was an area I may enjoy within film. I took a three-month hair and make-up course at CBMA, run by the designer Christine Blundell. It was an incredible experience with invaluable lessons as well as contacts.

I was terrible at hair with no training before or after! But my frustration made me practice and learn from tutorials in my own time. From there my first job was running the hair and make-up department for Secret Cinema. I saw it was doing a live event for Guy Ritchie’s RocknRolla premiere, so I asked if they needed make-up… which led to more than six years as department head!
A friend who also trained at CBMA, Jenny Rhodes McLean, approached me to work on Bridgerton series two as she was supervising and I think she thought I could bring a slightly more modern feel to period hairstyling as that wasn’t my background. From there, Jenny – who looked after Penelope – went on to design and so Erika (Ökvist, hair and make-up designer of series two and three) asked me to take over the hair of the character as well as Kate again for the third series. I’d also looked after Edwina in the second series.

Nicola Coughlan as Penelope

Ashleigh Hodges

Simone Ashley as Kate

“I feel incredibly lucky, this has been a dream job. I studied film at university and after some time working at a watch repairs, I knew I needed a practical course to enter the industry.”
– Farida Ghwedar

Talk us through the process from the first phone call right through to shooting the series…
Prep was three weeks as we were a returning team. However, I had a new character… who was the leading lady! I was very supported in anything I needed though. Erika called and talked through Penelope’s journey. Due to the scale of this job, she created moodboards, would have an initial discussion then trust you with your characters, which is amazing. I then send her looks to be signed off. She’s generally there to support you in every aspect. 
There’s a new look for almost every outfit and once shooting starts you rarely get fittings with the leads due to the schedule. So, most of the time you try on a style for the first time in the call, which is the ‘get ready’ time for hair and make-up. However, we made great use of the two to three fittings we had in prep.

Describe a typical ‘day in the life’ while working on set…
It changes all the time but, on average, we arrive at 5.30am to be ready for your actor in the chair at 6am. Hair/make-up happen then while the actor goes to costume, you grab breakfast, pack your set bag and tidy your station! Head to set for 8am and watch your actors on the monitors to keep an eye on the hair and continuity, and run in for checks where needed. You eat your lunch on the go most days and possibly have one or two changeovers. Finally, you’ll wrap at 6pm, derig your actor, clean the wig, reset it where needed and up your station for the next day.

Penelope’s ‘reveal’ is such an iconic moment of the series. How did you go about finding inspiration and ultimately deciding what was right for the moment?
Nicola Coughlan and I liked the idea of hair down as a departure from Penelope’s old style. I had been wanting to create something like Jane Russell’s sideswept waves or Blake Lively’s hairstyle in The Age of Adaline (the New Year’s Eve scene). The compromise with production was pinning up one side, as they wanted more room for her style to evolve, which made sense. I had already been using pin curls around the hairline, so I just extended this to the back tapering towards the loose waves.

Mash Creative Studio
Mash Creative Studio

Talk us through some of the key steps in creating the reveal hair look…
To start, I blow-dried Bumble & bumble Surf Foam Spray, which gives styling hold and a little grit to the hair. I followed with Oribe Gold Lust Dry Heat Protection Spray. I know most people wet set wigs and use a wig oven but sometimes I feel these sets can be too rigid and harder to dress for soft styles. I like being able to control and manipulate the hair through the whole process. I curl and pin one-inch sections, which takes longer than other sets but each style needed very little redressing using this method. 
Once I had brushed out the waves, I used a little Oribe Supershine Moisturizing Cream to smooth. For the pinned-up section, I reduced bulk by braiding away much of the hair. This also served as an anchor for the pin curls. I lightly sprayed Schwarzkopf Professional Silhouette hairspray as it’s a super-strong hold, and misted Oribe Superfine Hairspray for the loose waves as it allows movement which was part of the walk down the staircase during the reveal. 

What has the reaction been to Penelope’s hair evolution in the third series? 
I’ve been so overwhelmed by all the positive feedback! I do have to stress that this is a collaboration including the artists who looked after Nicola in the past. Nicola is also very involved and has great ideas. The styles are also more wearable because they are more modern this season, so that attracts more attention. 

Do you have a favourite look from the series?
I would say the Hawkin’s Ball, which is the side bun with hair flowers. I feel like all the elements from costume to make-up and hair all came together and Nicola looked beautiful. When everything marries together, that’s always a great thing. 

What are your three kit bag essentials?
My YS Parks or Denman Carbon tail combs, Oribe Supershine Moisturizing Cream and fine waves hair pins. 

What’s one thing readers may not realise about doing hair for film/TV?
When you create a hairstyle it’s not just about making something beautiful or immersive, but you have to consider how long a scene is. This translates to how long that style must last in a wig or be recreated to maintain continuity. You may have to replicate it perfectly a year later, or adapt it to withstand weather or certain action. You must be ready to compromise your vision to align with that of others in charge. 

For any stylists looking to branch out into the world of TV and film hair, what would your advice be?
Be prepared to be tired… always! The hours are long! Hair and make-up are often the first in and last out. You must learn to work efficiently as time is precious, and you must be a team player and stay positive where possible. Asides from your team, your actor is also doing those hours but they have to then step in front of the camera and be ‘on’ all day. You need to be aware of your impact on the start and end of their day.
Lastly, just love the work you do! Not everyone will have the same route into film and TV hairstyling, but if you love hair and put the same amount of effort into a small job as a big job, you will find your way.

Nicola Coughlan is Talk of the ’Ton

Nicola Coughlan is Talk of the ’Ton

Nicola Coughlan is Talk of the ’Ton

Session stylist Halley Brisker lifts the lid on working with the Bridgerton star as its third series hits Netflix.

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Custom lace front wig for the Met Gala 2022, with colour by Jason Hogan

Dearest readers… Whether you are a Bridgerton fanatic, a member of the Polin fandom or have never watched an episode at all, you’ve most probably come across Nicola Coughlan at some point in the past few years. From Derry Girls to Big Mood, she has a knack of creating ‘wow’ moments that love to go viral. That’s in part due to her role as Penelope Featheringtonin the Netflix hit Bridgerton, and also because she enjoys an exploratory sense of style that captures attention online and on social media.

One of the more misunderstood parts of my job is the ‘style journey’ as I like to call it, which myself and other glam team members craft through the unique partnership we create with our clients. Almost everybody has a personal sense of style but when one also has a public-facing life, there often isn’t time to take care of hair, make-up and wardrobe choices when carrying out duties that come with the role. That’s where professionals come in…

Going red for the Barbie premiere in London

Met Gala 2022

However, where it gets particularly exciting is when my clients want to go a step beyond the expected and craft a style iconography. I’ve worked with a breadth of talent over the years; many like to execute minimal changes to their personal style and have us perform only that, as best we know how for them. Then others want to push the boundaries of style, which for any creative is a form of pure joy. Nicola has always been someone with a love of style and the courage to be dynamic. We met – along with make-up artist Neil Young, stylist Aimee Croysdill and nail technician Michelle Class – on a photoshoot for Refinery29 in 2020. Nicola was already established thanks to her role in the hit show Derry Girls, and was due to appear in the debut season of Bridgerton. We had no idea how big that show would become nor the importance of the role of Penelope Featherington within the Bridgerton universe!

 

 

 

 

 

“Nicola has always been someone with a love of style and the courage to be dynamic”

Halley Brisker

Halley Brisker

It often takes time to discover what our clients’ goals are when working with glam teams. In the nearly four years we’ve worked together as a team of creatives alongside Nicola, we’ve created looks that have incorporated extensive product knowledge – from the oily, sleek locks for the SAG Awards to textured, A-line bobs at The Baftas. Hair piece sourcing for faux bangs at front row shows for Miu Miu in Paris and braided hair bows for the Stylist magazine awards in London. We’ve experimented with colour too; Nicola went red for the Barbie premiere in London and with the custom-coloured lace front wig I created for Nicola at the 2022 Met Gala, Jason Hogan at Josh Wood Atelier painstakingly coloured it to complement a bespoke Richard Quinn dress.

 

Halley and the glam team at work behind the scenes

Stylist Magazine Awards, 2022

Throughout this incredible style journey we’ve gone on together, the thread that has been a relative constant has been Bridgerton, which has just launched its third season. That instalment sees Nicola’s character take centre stage in the plot, to become…  nope, I’m not giving anything away!

It’s no coincidence that as looks go, the hair finish in New York was one of our most straightforward; sometimes we ‘grow as we go’. Of course, I have no idea what the future looks like for Bridgerton or Penelope, but to see hundreds of fans turn out for Nicola was a special moment and a perfect opportunity to create simple, elegant looks for this milestone moment.

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“You can just turn up and shoot” – Say hello to Grid Studios

“You can just turn up and shoot” – Say hello to Grid Studios

“You can just turn up and shoot” – Say hello to Grid Studios

The new content creation space for hair stylists that’s obsessed with perfecting your light.

Located in the heart of London’s Old Street you’ll find new Grid Studios, specifically designed for hair and beauty creatives. It’s run by Danny Mendoza-Hall and Ben Ottewell, hair content creators par excellence… and they’ve even worked with Jordanna Cobella to access her in-depth knowledge of the industry to ensure it was spot-on for the modern stylist.

This 100 sq m-plus studio boasts 3.5m high ceilings, an outside courtyard and a banging coffee bar. There are six fully equipped styling stations and a backwash unit with 360-degree access, perfect for every angle when filming. Yes, you’ll find everything you would expect to see in any top salon, but it’s all the extra touches that the social media savvy stylist needs today that impresses. There’s a shower room for capturing wet looks and products, multiple backdrops, materials, polyboards and all the A/V equipment you could need to host events and education. 

Plenty of natural light pours into the space, thanks to the 14m of south-facing windows. But the stand-out element might just be the custom-built lighting system. Hair creatives are always keen to show their work in the best light, and Grid Studio’s lighting system gives an even balanced daylight throughout the space. Its custom system automatically changes the colour temperature of the lighting to match the colour temperature of the daylight, so wherever you are in the space, the lighting and colour is perfect. The lights in the mirrors also change temperature! “We have put this lighting system in place so you can just turn up and shoot without the need to rent additional equipment, meaning you can significantly cut down on the costs of creating high-end content,” says Danny.

There’s also an own in-house production team – Grid Productions – that’s been creating hair content for years, working with some of the industry’s biggest brands. “Our goal was to make high-end content creation accessible both to brands and to hairdressers and beauty professionals,” he adds.

What’s on offer? First, there’s single chair rental, which works in a similar way to a freelance salon – you can rent a chair for the day, bring in your models and use the lighting, equipment and shoot area to create content. Alternatively, the entire studio is available to rent – that comes with all six stations, the backwash and the shoot area, just right for creating branded content and campaigns.

“We created this space to solve the problems we come up against when shooting both in salons and in studios,” says Danny. “Salons often don’t have the ceiling height, they have mismatched lighting, and are busy and noisy. We usually need to bring in loads of additional lighting, and shoot in cramped conditions. Studios don’t generally have styling stations or backwashes, which means you can’t properly capture the creation process. Again, you still need to bring in additional lighting, which is very expensive, making it unachievable for your average freelancer.”

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The Revolutionary Rick-Rack Curl

The Revolutionary Rick-Rack Curl

The Revolutionary Rick-Rack Curl

Home-made jumbo setting pins, smooth moves, and a watchful eye – respect the technique, as Lauren Bell aces rick-rack texture for The Coterie: In Session crowd back in 2021.  

A Creative HEAD event in partnership with BaByliss PRO, hosted by journalist and broadcaster, Ateh Jewel.

Hair: Lauren Bell
Make-up: Tricia Woolston
Fashion: Issie Gibbons
Model: Nirvana Proag @ First Management 
Video and production: Sledge
Photography: Harvey Williams-Fairley 
Venue: Jet Studios 

Lauren Bell the Coterie: In Session
Lauren Bell The Coterie: In Session
Lauren Bell The Coterie: In Session

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