TARIQ HOWES’ MODERN MOHAWK CAUSED A SCENE

Apr 18, 2024 | EXPLORE, TECHNIQUES

TECHNIQUES

TARIQ HOWES' MODERN MOHAWK CAUSED A SCENE

A twist on a styling staple, Tariq Howes combined early noughties nostalgia with ‘footballer craze’ energy to deliver an evolution of the classic mohawk at The Coterie: In Session, held in Manchester in October 2022. Presented first to a live audience, Tariq’s take on the iconic style is as fresh today as it was then.

A Creative HEAD event in partnership with BaByliss PRO, hosted by George Driver, formerly of Elle UK.

Hair: Tariq Howes
Make-up: Lou Pye
Fashion: Sonia Genders assisted by Gee Stanley
Model: Andre Hassan
Videography: Black Rock Creative
Photography: Ema Crompton
Production: The Creative Partnerships division at Creative HEAD
Venue: fivefourstudios

Tariq Howes The Coterie: In Session Manchester

The Coterie: In Session Manchester Tariq Howes

CATEGORIES > EXPLORE > TECHNIQUES

THE 3 BIGGEST BLONDE MISTAKES THAT COLOURISTS MAKE

Tia Lambourn – founder of Bay Studios in Derby and both Tia Lambourn Education and The Blonding Bible online platform AND a Redken Advocate – knows what NOT to do when blonding a client! These are the mistakes to avoid

Tia Lambourn

MISTAKE 1 – Rinsing too early

The bleach is on and you’re panicking: ‘I’m using a blue bleach, and it looks like it’s ready to come off’. What ends up happening is that the hair’s quite yellow underneath. What I usually recommend in my education and Blonding Bible classes is to take out a tiny strand of hair from the foil and do an elasticity test, instead of just judging it visually. You can then feel if it’s ready to come off. If it has started to feel a bit stringy, then that can also save you from breakage. That has saved me in the past, when I’ve thought: ‘this needs another 20 minutes’.

I’ve been in the middle of a colour correction where the hair looks orange, and I’ve pulled on it, I’ve felt that it’s got a little bit of give, and I know I need to take it off now.

MISTAKE 2 – Ignoring the clear

When it comes to glossing, not everyone utilises the clear. The most used ‘colour’ in my salon is the clear! Sometimes the hair lifts so perfectly that what you’re going to end up doing is almost making it look slightly muddy, or a bit heavy, or when there’s a lot of pigment in the hair, it makes it appear darker. So, if you do have a client who wants to be mega blonde, and you’ve managed to lift them to a really nice level 11, you want to gloss with your chosen shade and the same amount of clear – go half and half. In some scenarios, I’ll even do three-quarters clear, one-quarter of the chosen shade.

MISTAKE 3 – Using ash toners for a bright finish

Ash was a big trend, everyone wanted to be an icy blonde or platinum, but for really bright blondes, I’m always reaching for the warmer shades. A lot of the time you have a client who wants to be mega blonde, but they want to be ashy, so colourists will mix up an ash toner. But if you think of a white cloud compared to a grey cloud, the grey cloud has more ash in it… and it looks darker. With a blonde tone that’s more ashy, it’s going to appear slightly more dull. It’s not actually dull, it’s just got a heavy amount of pigment in there, so it’s going to appear that way because it’s not going to reflect the light so much. You can do a mix of warm and ash so that it is not golden, but it’s not super ashy. It’s more of a creamy milky blonde, then you get the best of both worlds.

CATEGORIES > EXPLORE > TECHNIQUES

THE SECRET TO A BRILLIANT BUZZCUT

Searches for buzzcuts have soared following the debut of Harry Styles’ new look, but how can hair pros master the transformative style? Our Most Wanted and It List winners share their top tips

Longer lengths are out and the buzzcut is back in a big way, if search data on Google is anything to go by. Following the reveal on social media of Mr. Styles’ new look, searches for ‘buzzcut hair’ have risen 158 per cent worldwide in the last week. New research by hair salon comparison site PriceListo  reveals that online searches for ‘buzzcut’ skyrocketed to over double the average volume in one week, with searches for ‘Harry Styles hair’ also increasing by a 205 per cent.

While hair pros across the globe will be familiar with the iconic cut, when it comes to delivering a brilliant buzzcut, there is an art to doing it the right way. “When executing these cuts, despite claims of quick simplicity, it’s crucial to take your time to avoid missing hairs,” says It List The Business Builder 2023 winner, Charles Rose of Crate Chesire. “Executing a buzzcut requires attention to detail, thorough consultations, and consideration of the client’s preferences for length and style,” he adds. “Regular maintenance, proper aftercare, and communication about expectations contribute to a successful buzz cut experience.”

Though not so straightforward as it may initially seem, for many clients it gives a chance to press reset on their style. “For my clients it’s always a good way to start again when they are unsure what style to go for next,” says Most Wanted Legend, Jody Taylor. “They have to go through so many different lengths when growing it out, so sometimes they will find a style they may not have ever thought about.”

Before reaching for the clippers, Charles advises checking the client’s hairline and preparing them for potential changes to ensure a thorough consultation.

When it comes to cutting techniques, move the blade or guards in all directions to achieve a uniform length. “Don’t just take the guards upwards; go against the hair growth when needed,” he states. “Discuss with the client whether they prefer sharp lines or a faded look around the front and back, using a razor for precision.” It’s also important to consider how short they want to go or if they prefer a gradual taper. “Buzzcut techniques, including fading and tapering, can be applied to soften or sharpen the overall look,” Charles adds.

Managing buzzcuts post-appointment will vary for each client. Charles points out that while some may appreciate the quick regrowth, others will prefer a more regular schedule. “Advise clients on the potential need for more frequent visits compared to their previous style,” he advises.

When advising on proper after care, always recommend a scalp-friendly shampoo and keeping head and hair hydrated. Depending on the desired length, product application is possible. For extremely short cuts like a grade two, keeping the scalp hydrated is essential to prevent dryness.

Though there may be more to the buzzcut than meets the eye, the roots in freedom and empowerment remain as true today as when the radical cut became popular with subcultures during the ’50s and ’60s. “If you haven’t shaved your head before it’s definitely something you need to do at some point in life – I always find it quite liberating with my own hair,” adds Jody.

Fellow Most Wanted winner and BaByliss PRO ambassador Ky Wilson also appreciates the power in starting from scratch. “Amen to this! Remove all the sins,” he exclaims. “Anyone that mentions it in my chair I give them the clippers and get them to do the first bit themselves just to feel the feels. Then I take over of course!”

CATEGORIES > EXPLORE > TECHNIQUES

MIX AND MATCH BRAIDS AT V&A’S FASHION IN MOTION: MINJU KIM

Hair lead Andrea Daley shares how she created the polished but not perfected look.

The V&A’s Fashion in Motion shows make catwalk couture accessible to a wider audience. Elegantly set against the backdrop of the museum, the ongoing series of catwalk have spotlighted work from some of the greatest designers of our time. In the most recent event, the inaugural winner of Netflix’s Next In Fashion, Korea based designer Minju Kim, shared a glimpse into her joyful, bold style. In a cohesive symphony of youthful playfulness and avant-garde haute couture, Minju’s signature style delivered bold shapes complimented by feminine characteristics.

In partnership with L’Oréal Professionnel Paris, the hair team was led by Andrea Daley, who created bespoke styles for each model. Inspired by macramé and Korean knots, the core look featured micro-braiding, knots and twisted detailing combined to give a little edge to girly styles.

“The styles are adaptable for most hair lengths and textures,” says Andrea. “The ‘mix and match’ braids allow for multiple styles from one look and work as a perfect hair up for festivals too.”

Get the look

Step one: Prep the hair using L’Oréal Professionnel Paris TECNI.ART Pli to give a mailable texture without compromising on shine.

Step two: Part the hair in the centre, from hairline to nape.

Step three: Subdivide the back into four sections (top right finishing just above the ear, top left just to the middle of the ear). Ensure the partings are obviously asymmetric to recreate the look.

Step four: Split the right-hand side into two ponytails. The top should be high, with the lower one secured at the nape to exaggerate the difference in balance.

Step five: Now, twist the top ponytail into a short rope braid with the majority of the length left out.

Step six: Plait the below ponytail and intertwine the length of the rope twist.

Step seven: On the left-hand side, scalp braid from the hairline to the middle of the ear and then plait.

Step eight: Then, braid the below section into a skinny plait.

Step nine: In front of the ear and on the hairline, loosely release the baby hair using the palm of your hand for a softer edge.

Step 10: Finally, smooth the tails of each braid and the loose hairlines using the L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Steampod for a glass-like finish.

CATEGORIES > EXPLORE >TECHNIQUES

GET THE LOOK – HAIR BARCODING FOR KWK BY KAY KWOK S/S24

The inside spin on session stylist Nick Irwin’s otherworldly look for the futuristic designer.

Kay Kwok is a Hong Kong fashion designer known for his futuristic and contemporary designs. He combines avant-garde fashion with digital influences to create an unconventional aesthetic, perfectly exampled by a 3D-printed custom-made art piece designed for Beyoncé’s Renaissance tour.

His first time working with Kay Kwok, this season Nick Irwin transported us to another planet with a futuristic hair look centred around the concept of hair barcoding. The idea behind the show was to tap into Kay’s references towards futurism, while also maintaining the individuality of each model. With this in mind, Nick and his team were able to craft an almost barcode-like effect using a gelled strip placed in certain areas of each model’s hair.

The Session Label hero products

The Jelly
“We’ve set the hair with a great product called The Jelly, which gives you a glossy, almost plastic, futuristic feel with the finish. It’s a lightweight gel that you can comb and manipulate the hair with.”

The Coat
“The Coat is a super, super light shine spray. If you use lots of it and spray close to the head, it makes the hair super glossy. We’ve used that with a wide-tooth comb over the surface to a give an almost barcode-like feel to the hair.”

The Strong
“To make the hair hold in the area we’ve added the gel strip, we use The Strong – a super strong hold hairspray.”

Find out more about Session Label from Schwarzkopf Professional

CATEGORIES > EXPLORE >TECHNIQUES

GET THE LOOK: SPORTS LUXE

At the annual Central Saint Martins White Show, sports luxe styling reigned supreme. Hair lead Clare Hansford shares how she created the wonderful wet-look

BA Fashion students at Central Saint Martins delivered a high energy, high impact catwalk for the annual White Show in December. ‘Sport is our fashion’ was the brief for Clare Hansford of Headmasters, who led the L’Oréal Professionnel Paris hair team. Working with ID Artists and team members from Portfolio salons, collectively they created looks for 140 models with just three hours prep time.

Hair was treated to look sweaty and damp. Depending on what the model was wearing and the hair type, with varying levels of product to reflect how hair can look during sporting activities End results ranged from damp curls around the face to a soaking, wet look finish reminiscent of “playing squash for two hours,” Clare said. Forget your next gym class, this is all the sporting action you need!

As the theme was ‘fashion is our sport’ the hair was treated to look sweaty and damp. Clare and the team created a really high gloss, high shine for a really sweaty look, or something with less product that embraced natural hair at the back but with gel round the front for a glistening hair line. Depending on the model’s hair type and what would work best with the outfit, some had tendrils and waves clinging to the skin, and for others a very high ponytail or braids, but all had a high-shine, glistening ‘sweaty’ hairline.

The hair was prepped with a diluted mix of L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Tecni.ART Fix Max Gel and about a third of water for more pliability. This was great to work with on thicker hair, as made hair easier to work with while also being hydrating. For Afro models, Clare used L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Curl Expression Curls Reviver to detangle and hydrate without weighing down the hair. Finally, any fringes or ponytails were sprayed with a little L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Tecni.ART Fix Design gel spray for a glistening finish.

TARIQ HOWES' MODERN MOHAWK CAUSED A SCENE

Related

THE 3 BIGGEST BLONDE MISTAKES THAT COLOURISTS MAKE

Tia Lambourn – founder of Bay Studios in Derby and both Tia Lambourn Education and The Blonding Bible online platform AND a Redken Advocate – knows what NOT to do when blonding a client! These are the mistakes to avoid

Related

CATEGORIES > EXPLORE > TECHNIQUES

THE SECRET TO A BRILLIANT BUZZCUT

Searches for buzzcuts have soared following the debut of Harry Styles’ new look, but how can hair pros master the transformative style? Our Most Wanted and It List winners share their top tips

Related

MIX AND MATCH BRAIDS AT V&A’S FASHION IN MOTION: MINJU KIM

Hair lead Andrea Daley shares how she created the polished but not perfected look.

Related

GET THE LOOK – HAIR BARCODING FOR KWK BY KAY KWOK S/S24

The inside spin on session stylist Nick Irwin’s otherworldly look for the futuristic designer.

Related

GET THE LOOK: SPORTS LUXE

At the annual Central Saint Martins White Show, sports luxe styling reigned supreme. Hair lead Clare Hansford shares how she created the wonderful wet-look

Related