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EXAUCÉ IMBO: MY TAKE ON A MID TAPER FADE

EXAUCÉ IMBO: MY TAKE ON A MID TAPER FADE

Feb 22, 2024 | TECHNIQUES

CATEGORIES > EXPLORE > TECHNIQUES

EXAUCÉ IMBO: MY TAKE ON... AN AFRO MID TAPER FADE

A precision trim given a textural twist, Exauce Imbo – owner of EXSTUDIO barbers – puts his spin on a modern men’s classic.

Exaucé Imbo

“There are a number of variations when it comes to overall style and design features you can add to a mid taper fade to tailor it to your client’s wants and needs. First, on Afro textured men’s hair, shape plays a big role. You can keep the Afro smooth, with a crisp and defined round shape, which gives a clean, classic look that is perhaps more suitable for business professionals. Switching up the shape and introducing more natural texture on the top gives a more relaxed and individual feel to the cut.

 

“Also, there is the choice of the level where you begin to taper the fade. Despite the name of the cut, you can play with transition height – it doesn’t always have to be ‘mid’ as seen on my client. The option to take the taper higher or lower depending on customer preference can really transform the overall result. On the majority of my haircuts, I like to line up the edges of the hairline to add an extra pop and contrast to the haircut.

“For a modern and younger feel, I like to finish off the styling on mid taper fades using a twist sponge to enhance the individual curl pattern of my client’s hair. First, before using the sponge, I always make sure that the hair is fully combed out and detangled so that it forms neat curls and isn’t picking up damage during styling.

“Personally, I also like to moisturise the hair beforehand with my EXTREATMENT Curl Cream. This extra hydration not only helps to enhance the twists or curls, it makes sure the strands are less prone to breakage and makes the ‘rubbing’ motion which encourages the curl formation much easier. 

“I gently rub the sponge against my clients hair in a repeated circular motion, maintaining the same direction of movement all over the head. I start by focussing on the tips of the hair, gradually applying more pressure as I get deeper into the Afro.

“The key is to not press down too harshly, as that can cause the hair to break and to keep pressure uniform so that the curls form evenly. You then just keep rubbing until you have created the desired look you are after!”

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JAMES EARNSHAW – MY TAKE ON A BIG 70’S BLOW-OUT

JAMES EARNSHAW – MY TAKE ON A BIG 70’S BLOW-OUT

Feb 22, 2024 | TECHNIQUES

CATEGORIES > EXPLORE > TECHNIQUES

JAMES EARNSHAW: MY TAKE ON... A BIG '70S BLOW-OUT

A new twist on the Farrah Fawcett classic with big, bouncy waves.

“I love this ’70s blow-out because it has really moved from a trend to something more classic. People love it, the flicks and texture always perform super well on social, and also it’s such a fun look to add colour with too!”

It’s really important to start with the perfect prep. I use lots of Amika Brooklyn Bombshell Blowout Spray, which is great as you can really layer it up to create a strong base. I apply this all the way through the roots and ends. It’s also good to add a small amount of smoothing cream to the ends – I love Amika Supernova Moisture and Shine Cream for this is as it’s super lightweight. 

Using my ghd helios hair dryer, I blast dry the hair to remove lots of moisture. This is when I’ll then divide the hair into sections. Sectioning off is so important for the direction you want the hair to sit, I like to take all my sections diagonally. Working diagonally back means the hair sits a lot better, and this also creates more width which is key for that ’70s feel.

 

Once sectioned I use the dryer and round brush, starting around the face and over-directing the hair forward as I blow the ends backwards. I go over each section a few times and switch between hot and cool to really seal in the curl and volume. It’s important to use lots of tension and pull the hair out as you dry. Once I reach the crown, I like to alternate the direction I dry – some towards the face and some backwards – but I still over-direct the roots forward. 

After the hair is dried, I leave it to cool ideally for around five minutes so it can really set. I then spritz with lots of Amika Un.Done Texture Spray and get my hands in and massage the roots, this breaks up any section marks and helps me to see how the hair is falling. Next, I tilt the head back and brush the hair upside down to create as much width as possible, before applying more texture spray.

 

Always use your fingers to manipulate the hair so it sits exactly how you want! You can finish with hairspray, but personally I prefer texture spray as it is drier and keeps the hair looking more modern and fluffy. This finish is perfect for creating the ultimate Insta hair.”

 

 

 

 

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