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NEW GUIDELINES REVEALED FOR ALLERGY TESTING

NEW GUIDELINES REVEALED FOR ALLERGY TESTING

NEW GUIDELINES REVEALED FOR ALLERGY TESTING

Collaboration of industry bodies unveils new testing protocols for professional colour in the UK.

A new allergy testing protocol for professional hair colour has been unveiled through a collaboration of industry bodies. 

Associations including the National Hair and Beauty Federation and Hair & Barber Council have blended the changes announced by Cosmetics Europe last year with existing industry best practices. The new guidelines offer a clear benchmark for hair professionals, insurers and hair colour brands to meet to promote the safe use of professional hair colour services in the UK. 

Posting professional colour to a client’s home for them to test at home is not recommended under the new protocol, as this goes against industry best practice and may invalidate insurance cover.

The new protocol recognises three systems for professional allergy alert testing:

1. The Allergy Alert Test (AAT)
Instructions designed by manufacturers and printed on packaging and instructions for use.

2. Protocols designed for professional use only and conducted by a hair professional*
Hair colour brand protocols are applicable to their own products only, whereas some hair industry, trade organisations’ and insurers’ protocols can be used with any hair colour brand.

3. Universal allergy screening tests licenced as medicines for consumers to use at home to screen for the most common hair colour allergen (PPD)
These products are available to buy online or via approved stockists and may only need to be used once.  

“Having three options that have been thoroughly researched and examined by our industry leaders makes it simpler to understand and easier for us to communicate to the public,” says Gareth Penn, registrar at the Hair & Barber Council.

“Allergy alert tests are vital to protect clients and guard against potentially expensive legal action if something goes wrong. This is a huge step in the right direction,” added Caroline Larissey, chief executive at the National Hair & Beauty Federation. “These collaborative guidelines will help raise standards and also support clients make an informed choice.”

The industry bodies working together are Good Salon Guide, Salon Employers Association, the Barber Council, the Fellowship for British Hairdressing, the Freelance Hairdressers’ Association, the Hair Council, the Men’s Hairdressing Federation and the National Hair & Beauty Federation.

* Precise protocols differ and it is the responsibility of hair professionals to check cover with their own insurance provider.

THE COTERIE: WHY SOCIAL MEDIA CAN MAKE OR BREAK YOU

THE COTERIE: WHY SOCIAL MEDIA CAN MAKE OR BREAK YOU

THE COTERIE: WHY SOCIAL MEDIA CAN MAKE OR BREAK YOU

As pressures rise to be on top of your game when it comes to content creation, just how important is social media for a modern day hairdresser or barber?

It’s no secret that building an online presence can be a real game-changer when it comes to running a successful business. What first started as infrequent updates on a Facebook page or occasional posts on Instagram has evolved into the lofty heights of content creation – something which nobody is taught when starting out in the industry.

As I sat in the audience at The Coterie London on Monday night, listening to the panel discuss the future for hairdressing, it was the notion of hairdressers becoming ‘creators’ that really stuck with me. Maybe that’s unsurprising, given I’m Creative HEAD’s digital and social media manager, but it became apparent from the eight industry experts sharing their views, that for them, the value of social media (when done right!) cannot be underestimated – of course I agree wholeheartedly on that front! Yes, it can feel overwhelming – especially when just two years ago we didn’t know what a Reel was – but it really can be a springboard for big things. Take Jay Birmingham as a fantastic example – the session artist now has a whopping 42K followers on his hair account alone!

I’ve watched how Jay has developed his personal brand over the years, finding a niche in working with influencers and celebrities to help grow his following through word of mouth. Every day I see examples of ‘influencer hairdressing’ when scrolling the Creative HEAD feed, whether filmed tutorials, taking people behind-the-scenes into work life, or sharing looks that become trending styles, I believe it is an area of the industry which is only continuing to grow further. Like Jay, when I consider this aspect of the industry, names such as Chris Appleton and Andrew Fitzsimons immediately spring to mind. Particularly in the past five to ten years, I’ve seen first-hand how social media has elevated the industry and given birth to a new era of hairdressing icons. “For me, social media was the best thing to happen. It saved our industry; especially in COVID when it was a tool to remind clients or followers that we existed,” Jay explained.

As well helping hairdressers to become ‘influencers’ in their own right, I believe social media is at its core a brilliant tool for attracting new clients, and reaching the type of clients you want to work with. You are what you attract, so if it’s vivids, balayage or great cuts that you want to be your bread and butter, that is first and foremost the content you have to be sharing. As Georgia Freeman of Q Cut Hair & Beauty pointed out, “post what you enjoy doing the most, because that’s what you want to do.”

Listening to Georgia, I was so impressed to hear that 10 per cent of her clients have discovered her through social media, with some travelling over an hour and a half for an appointment. Though newer to the industry, I think this highlights the value in adapting to what Instagram wants, as opposed to trying to fight it. We could discuss algorithms, reach and views until we’re blue in the face, but the bottom line is that in order to be seen you need to be doing the right things. “Having a presence online gives you exposure. No one looks at Google anymore, Instagram is your free portfolio and the best marketing tool you can have,” Georgia said. It seems a rather bold statement, but I was eagerly nodding in the audience because she is absolutely right. Think like a consumer for a moment – how do you discover new brands, restaurants or places to visit on holiday? The answer is in hashtags, geotags and scrolling through the ‘explore’ page. If I’m being brutally honest, I’m immediately sceptical of any Google review now, but a well curated Instagram feed doesn’t lie.

With such a useful business tool at our fingertips, it’s vital to make sure it is being used right. I’ve seen SO much amazing content in my many hours spent scrolling and searching for potential reposts, but unfortunately I’ve seen many fall at the first hurdle. Whether that means separate accounts for work and personal posts, taking extra effort to capture finished looks or capitalising on current trends, I thoroughly believe are many ways to make Instagram or TikTok work for you, but an even greater number of pitfalls to avoid.

Aside from the obvious need for good lighting, keeping filters to a minimal and ensuring you post at key times, a successful social media profile needs to be authentic. When a potential client first comes across your page, what does it say about you? Nobody knows your business better than you, but you have to make sure you’re presenting the best version of yourself – not the one you’ve seen 10 other hair pros mimicking in an attempt to be popular. As one of the panel at The Coterie, Karrie Fitzmaurice, owner of Kit Studios,  discussed how there are two ways to remain authentic when creating content. “Who you are born as is the content you create, that is your purpose. For others, the focus of the content is their true goal – it is the first thing on their mind when they wake up.” Whichever the approach, Karrie is right when she says that it will help with posting authentic content. Of course,  I know more than most that what we share on social media and what we deem as a ‘real life’ are often worlds apart, but our presence online can have elements of both. If your content has a purpose, then it will be authentic.

As curator of the Creative HEAD feed, what resonated with me the most was Karrie’s magic formula to growing organically online. She explained that once you have your purpose and goals, you need to use that alongside what is trending on social media. With both these factors in place, it is then key to repeat and go hard in order to do what the platform wants of its users, which is to post all the time. I know that can seem incredibly daunting, but consistency is absolutely key to growing your following. I’ve had to adapt what content we share too, but even just adding a trending audio to a great process video or a finished look can dramatically improve the reach of your content.

Talking to The Coterie crowd, Jack Mead of Jack & The Wolfe made a strong statement I can absolutely get behind – every hair pro should embrace social media. Having amassed over 74K followers, I would urge any reader to take one look at Jack’s feed because it is a great example of finding your niche with Reels content. Jack has learnt what content gets the best engagement in order to grow his business further, and I think it’s particularly clever how he’s coupled that with the extended reach posting Reels regularly offers. You’ll see how  Jack documents the transformative process of a salon service, placing clients in front of the camera to show the real emotion. “The most important part of what we do is how a client feels after, so I wanted to capture the emotional side,” he said. “If they are okay with being filmed, document the beginning, middle and end of the appointment. Show the happiness they feel.”

I will be the first to acknowledge that managing an Instagram account doesn’t come naturally to everyone. Nobody is born knowing how to reply to a DM, film a slick TikTok transition or edit videos. We’re all still learning, right? That’s why I agree with Jay’s advice to invest in a content creator, such as a student or recent graduate who may know far more. Regardless of where you’re at or which avenue you take,  my main piece of advice is to remember to remain true to you. If you’re going to use social media, use it correctly. The end result? Good work will always get seen – and you may end up on Creative HEAD’s channels too! 

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MY SPACE: SIOBHÁN JONES STUDIO

MY SPACE: SIOBHÁN JONES STUDIO

MY SPACE: SIOBHÁN JONES STUDIO

Independent colourist and educator and global ambassador for L’Oréal Professionnel Paris, opens the door to her new studio in Horsham.

What was the aim of the space? 

I was looking for a space that felt like me aesthetically and would give me the freedom to run my day how I wanted without the responsibility or pressure of leading a whole team. I wanted to create a space that I enjoyed being in and felt like home. I’m all about a calmer and slower pace of life, so the furnishings and colour palette needed to reflect that.  
I plan to use the space not only to run a column for my clients but also to create content and online education. I do a lot of brainstorming, admin, meetings and content creation for my education courses, so I also wanted to create a space I enjoy being in to do those administrative tasks. 

What advice do you have for independent stylists starting their studio-style salon?  

Give yourself sufficient storage. It sounds very dull, but it’s often the bit that gets forgotten. I’ve learnt my lesson from having a salon before, and it’s even more important in a small space! If you want your space to look aesthetically pleasing, you are going to want areas to put stuff away like products, colour, ring lights, towels, so more storage is a must.
Invest in good quality salon equipment like cutting chairs and basins but do shop around for all the other furniture and design. These are the parts that will bring character.
Make sure you choose a colour partner that you not only love using on your clients but is easy to order and the quantities you want. You want a brand that can support you. I work closely with L’Oréal Professionnel Paris and having a good relationship is key to making your space work. 

How does your one-to-one approach work in practice?  

I can see up to three clients daily depending on their chosen colour service. When renting a chair, you often will need to pay a daily rate for the chair and or give a percentage of your takings. Depending on whether you need to rent or pay for the space will factor in how much you take home. 
With my studio, my outgoings are less than when I work freelance from a space, allowing me to do fewer clients in a day. However, offering a one-on-one experience to a client most definitely opens up the possibility of adding a premium to your pricing. 

How will you be marketing your space to potential new clients? 

All my marketing has been on social media platforms; videos of the space and hair have been great to grab the attention of potential new clients. It gains the most reach. However, recommendations from existing clients will always be at the top of the list when attracting new clients.
When clients take selfies in the space, I get them to share on social media. If people see the vibe of the space and match with it, they are more inclined to book as the recommendation has come from a friend. 

What do you have planned for the future? 

I’m launching the podcast The So Lovely Hair Show alongside my co-host, Ollie Blackaby from The Hair Salon in Brighton. We’ll be recording from the studio, intending to offer real-life, open and honest staff room chit-chat, covering a variety of topics and challenges that freelancers, creatives and the hair industry are faced with.
My career has had many ups and downs, and I genuinely believe that the hard times have made pivot in new and positively life-changing directions. Discussing my struggles and how to overcome them with friends and colleagues is what has got me through, so I hope to bring a bit of that support, honesty and inclusivity to our industry. I’m also working on an exciting project with L’Oréal Professionnel Paris which will be launching in March so watch this space!

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THE HOT TOPICS FOR FREELANCERS RIGHT NOW

THE HOT TOPICS FOR FREELANCERS RIGHT NOW

THE HOT TOPICS FOR FREELANCERS RIGHT NOW

The FHA’s Sheila Abrahams covers the pressing issues facing freelancers and offers some words of advice

The hairdressing industry is always shifting, and it’s no different for freelance stylists. Here, Sheila Abrahams, (pictured above), founder of the Freelance Hairdressers Association, spotlights the pain points for freelancers right now and offers words of advice and support.

Mislabelling freelancers

In the realm of hairdressing, many professionals prefer to be recognised as freelancers or independents rather than “home hairdressers.” Some of us travel to clients’ homes due to various reasons, because they have medical conditions, transportation limitations, are professionals who work from home, or are busy mums and dads who are strapped for time. Other stylists have transformed spaces like rooms, garages, or garden studios into fabulous salons. Freelancers might rent space, use pods or chairs, or even work under major brands and colour houses. Despite this diversity, some still label us as home hairdressers, even though renowned salon names also operate as freelancers for brands. The key distinction is that we don’t employ staff.

Brands moving to the high street

Recent discussions centre on brands moving to the high street. We aim to keep our members positive and focused. If you retail products within your business, it’s important not to worry about external developments. Concentrate on honing your skills and knowledge with the trusted brands you use and guide your clients with the best haircare solutions. While clients may seek bargains, they often lack product knowledge and guidance, which can lead to less-than-ideal outcomes.

Business independence and disguised employment

It’s crucial to educate our members that their business within a salon or barbershop must remain entirely separate from the umbrella they operate under. Regardless of whether you’re self-employed, a sole trader, or a limited company, you manage your booking system, handle bills via your own till system or card machine and provide your products and equipment. Your prices, hours, and vacation plans should not be dictated by others. If you need legal advice, the FHA offers a legal advice line to assist you.

Navigating Covid concerns

COVID-19 has once again become a pressing topic in our community. Questions arise about skin testing after experiencing Covid or receiving the Covid jab, and whether it’s appropriate to request mask-wearing from clients. Given the limited Covid regulations, our advice is to follow your instincts. If you wish to wear a mask, do so. If clients have received a Covid injection, adhere to previous rules of skin testing before applying colour. Given the increasing reports of reactions post-Covid or vaccinations, erring on the side of caution is advisable.

Handling booking fees and deposits

An ongoing concern revolves around booking fees or deposits due to the increasing incidence of no-shows and last-minute cancellations. We advise our members to ensure transparency. If you opt to charge a booking fee, it should be clearly communicated in writing and enforced for cancellations within a 24/48-hour window. This policy can be included on your website, in appointment confirmation emails, or text messages, ensuring that clients understand the terms and have a copy for reference in case of earnings loss.The percentage of freelancers in the industry is on the rise, coinciding with more salons unfortunately closing their doors. Social media abounds with newcomers seeking guidance on insurance, groups, and education. The FHA offers bespoke insurance tailored to our ever-growing industry and unparalleled opportunities to collaborate with top brands in colour and styling. We provide hands-on training, bursaries, zoom education, local meetups, and a supportive community through our staff room chat room. While freelancers may work independently, we stand together, offering technical advice and guidance. Our goal is to mentor new freelancers and provide insights into establishing their businesses.

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JAMES EARNSHAW – MY TAKE ON A BIG 70’S BLOW-OUT

JAMES EARNSHAW – MY TAKE ON A BIG 70’S BLOW-OUT

JAMES EARNSHAW: MY TAKE ON... A BIG '70S BLOW-OUT

A new twist on the Farrah Fawcett classic with big, bouncy waves.

“I love this ’70s blow-out because it has really moved from a trend to something more classic. People love it, the flicks and texture always perform super well on social, and also it’s such a fun look to add colour with too!”

It’s really important to start with the perfect prep. I use lots of Amika Brooklyn Bombshell Blowout Spray, which is great as you can really layer it up to create a strong base. I apply this all the way through the roots and ends. It’s also good to add a small amount of smoothing cream to the ends – I love Amika Supernova Moisture and Shine Cream for this is as it’s super lightweight. 

Using my ghd helios hair dryer, I blast dry the hair to remove lots of moisture. This is when I’ll then divide the hair into sections. Sectioning off is so important for the direction you want the hair to sit, I like to take all my sections diagonally. Working diagonally back means the hair sits a lot better, and this also creates more width which is key for that ’70s feel.

 

Once sectioned I use the dryer and round brush, starting around the face and over-directing the hair forward as I blow the ends backwards. I go over each section a few times and switch between hot and cool to really seal in the curl and volume. It’s important to use lots of tension and pull the hair out as you dry. Once I reach the crown, I like to alternate the direction I dry – some towards the face and some backwards – but I still over-direct the roots forward. 

After the hair is dried, I leave it to cool ideally for around five minutes so it can really set. I then spritz with lots of Amika Un.Done Texture Spray and get my hands in and massage the roots, this breaks up any section marks and helps me to see how the hair is falling. Next, I tilt the head back and brush the hair upside down to create as much width as possible, before applying more texture spray.

 

Always use your fingers to manipulate the hair so it sits exactly how you want! You can finish with hairspray, but personally I prefer texture spray as it is drier and keeps the hair looking more modern and fluffy. This finish is perfect for creating the ultimate Insta hair.”

 

 

 

 

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