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“The Met Gala Is The Exception To The Rule” – Halley Brisker On Styling At Fashion’s Big Night Of The Year

“The Met Gala Is The Exception To The Rule” – Halley Brisker On Styling At Fashion’s Big Night Of The Year

May 21, 2024 | DOCUMENTS

CATEGORIES > EXPLORE > DOCUMENTS

“THE MET GALA IS THE EXCEPTION TO THE RULE” – HALLEY BRISKER ON STYLING AT FASHION’S BIG NIGHT OF THE YEAR

The session stylist reveals the military-grade planning necessary for the iconic first Monday in May event.

Halley Brisker

Halley Brisker

We’ve all cooed and dissected the looks from this year’s Met Gala, the most photographed red carpet in the world, second only to The Oscars. But what is it like to work it as a session stylist? Halley Brisker – on hand to style Lily James and Eve Hewson for the 2024 Garden of Time-themed event – lifts the lid… 

“Traditionally a fundraiser for the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume institute in New York, the Met Gala has now morphed into a global fashion event headed up by Anna Wintour, who supposedly oversees personally every single outfit worn by the attendees. What does such a night mean for the attendees and the hair, make-up and styling teams that take part? 

“This was my third year and each one tends to play out much the same – my job is often done with little time for organisation. Sometimes I know what I’m doing several weeks in advance; sometimes I can have as little as 24 hours to prepare! However, the Met Gala is the exception to the rule. 

“I often know six months or more in advance if any of my clients will attend. For an event that demands the attendance of the world’s most influential and well-known faces, military precision is required if one is hoping to get them all in one building, in one city, on one night of the year. 

Hair, make-up and styling are also appreciative of this long lead time as there are not enough of us to go around on Met Monday in New York! This is a night that the attending talent hope to be able to have their most trusted teams; often a scuffle can ensue in terms of making sure you can secure the people that make you look and feel your best on such an important night. 

“Preparation begins months in advance, with first sketches of outfits. This helps start a conversation among the team and talent once everybody is confirmed. The more open to idea sharing, creative direction and progression of ideas you can be with one another, the more exciting the creative journey will be. It tends to be a busy WhatsApp thread… 

Halley Brisker's moodboard

Halley’s mood board and final look for Eve Hewson

“Fittings will take place as outfits are brought to life. Directions can and usually will change, but I like to begin my prep with large format mood boarding based on the theme of the year and the initial idea references that the team have put forward. Sometimes it can just be a feeling that my client wants to embody or bring to life. This moodboarding comprises searches for fairly abstract references across multiple mediums, and everybody on the team takes a look and asks for things that stand out. Once I get a feeling for that, I can begin narrowing down my final board which I use on Met Monday.   

“Most teams will make their way to New York (if they aren’t already based there) on the Friday or Saturday. This gives everybody time to settle in and leaves Sunday for some final prep. If possible, I love to squeeze in a hair test on the Sunday night. Going into The Met having had a quick run-through pays huge dividends – I’m somebody who likes to be organised, otherwise I can’t relax. There are two well-established hotels that host most of the talent, literally across the road from one another – very handy if you have more than one client at separate locations.  

Victoria Panting working

Halley working with Lily James

“This is a night that the attending talent hope to be able to have their most trusted teams; often a scuffle can ensue in terms of making sure you can secure the people that make you look and feel your best on such an important night.”

Halley Brisker

“This year I was getting both Lily James and Eve Hewson ready, which if scheduling is executed well is achievable with a good assistant. There are some artists that will attempt more than two people… If your cortisol levels are manageable and you have a fetish for stress, then this might be for you, but it isn’t for the faint of heart!  

“Content is king, so you can expect a constant stream of brand partners in the ‘get ready’ suite along with publications like Vogue and Vanity Fair dropping in, all to create content. That is why for The Met we will always allow at least double the prep time of any other event – four or five hours is not uncommon. We’re creating the most immaculate finishes, if not the most creative looks, so time to do this while everybody involved is able to work their magic and collect their content is vital. It also helps to reduce that rush to the finish line – talent often need to be sewn into custom couture before final touches and pictures… Trust me, time flies on Met Monday!

“Military precision of production doesn’t end at the hotel suite door. A cavalcade of sprinter vans line up around the block for specific timeslots for each talent attending and a sea of paparazzi wait outside the two hotels, backed by screaming fans. Usually, the team and I enjoy a celebratory drink while we wait for our clients to return – we can hang out and debrief a little before sending off the talent to the after parties, sometimes with a change of hair and make–up look. Once the kit chaos is finally packed up and I’m in a taxi looking forward to crawling into my hotel bed in the small hours…” 

Halley backstage with Lily James 

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“To Partner With Dior Is A Dream Come True” –  Hayden Cassidy On The Modern Power Of The Barber

“To Partner With Dior Is A Dream Come True” –  Hayden Cassidy On The Modern Power Of The Barber

May 17, 2024 | EXPLORE, HOME EXPLORE

CATEGORIES > EXPLORE > DOCUMENTS

“TO PARTNER WITH DIOR IS A DREAM COME TRUE” – HAYDEN CASSIDY ON THE MODERN POWER OF THE BARBER

Dior’s new UK grooming expert talks connections, Guinness and being ready for when Johnny Depp calls… 

Hayden Cassidy working
Hayden Cassidy
When a young footballing Hayden Cassidy broke her leg while on a US college scholarship – signalling the end of her playing career – she probably wouldn’t have predicted where she would be today. In a move that underpins an important statement on the place of women in the traditionally male-dominated world of barbering, Hayden has been unveiled as Dior UK’s grooming expert. Let that sink in for a moment…

It seemed a stretch when Hayden saw an email in her inbox in January last year from the Dior beauty team (she thought it was spam and ignored it). They chased her on Instagram, keen to discuss working together. The fashion and beauty giant had been impressed by what they had seen of the Dublin born, London-based barber across social media, working across editorial, education, with musicians and behind the chair with a laser focus on fusing
barbering with fashion.

Let’s not forget, she won The It Girl at the 2020 It List awards, such was her impression on the judges. She was also one of the stars of The Industry’s Not Just A Hairdresser campaign in 2022, showcasing perfectly the thrilling and creative possibilities of a career in hair beyond the expected. It’s been clear that Hayden Cassidy was always going to stand out…

Hayden Cassidy
Pierre Mouton for Parfums Christian Dior
Dior has commented on how Hayden “strives to push the boundaries of men’s grooming while showcasing her signature clean, contemporary and detailed style” – the reason why she is the ideal expert for Dior to partner and work closely together with over the next year. Her creative vision and skills will be on hand for editorial, digital, influencer and celebrity projects, with her aligned with Dior’s Sauvage line. 

Hayden has deemed the partnership as “a dream come true”, and her expertise for Dior has seen her featured already in high profile pieces in the Financial Times, Wonderland and the ES Magazine. 

“Where do men get a lot of their grooming tips from? They don’t go into shops, and they don’t search on articles or magazines, they look to their trusted barber,” says Hayden. “For so long, barbers haven’t really been given those opportunities when it comes to fashion and editorial work. As a luxury brand, it’s been incredible for Dior to recognise the barber as someone that has that information, and given that title. What’s really exciting is that it’s a new role for both myself and Dior. They’re really open to working side by side, more of a collaboration.” That’s already meant trips to Paris, including a tour of the Dior archives and gallery (“a ‘pinch me’ moment!”)  

Men's hair by Hayden Cassidy
Men's hair by Hayden Cassidy
Men's hair by Hayden Cassidy
Men's hair by Hayden Cassidy
Men's hair by Hayden Cassidy
Men's hair by Hayden Cassidy
Men's hair by Hayden Cassidy
Men's hair by Hayden Cassidy
Men's hair by Hayden Cassidy
Men's hair by Hayden Cassidy
Men's hair by Hayden Cassidy
Men's hair by Hayden Cassidy
Photography by Declan Kelly (@declankelly)
Does she see Dior’s choice of a female barber as a grooming expert, sharing techniques and advice across social media and editorial, as important? “Definitely, it shows how the industry has evolved. From going into what people might think is quite an intimidating, male-dominated industry to getting opportunities like this. I’m not saying I’m a hairstylist; I’m a barber. It’s something that I never shied away from.  

 “A few years ago, everybody tried to drop the barber term. But there’s something about history and heritage in the barbering culture that I fell in love with, the classic shaves. I’ll be the first to admit that I’ve always said I hated going into a salon, that never attracted me. Barbering has this ritual; it feels like a sacred practice.” 

The Dior gig comes at a time of exciting change for Hayden. Having outgrown her Hackney studio unit, she’s recently set up a larger collaborative space in London Fields called Croí (pronounced ‘kree’, it’s Gaelic for ‘heart’), where clients can chill out, guest artists can work (Dublin colourist Sara Hurley has visited) and other creatives can host pop-ups (two of Hayden’s friends – a jeweller and a designer – have already done just that).  

“Where do men get a lot of their grooming tips from? They don’t go into shops, and they don’t search on articles or magazines, they look to their trusted barber.”

Hayden Cassidy

 “It still feels intimate, comfortable and welcoming. I get recommended by barbers in Ireland to clients moving over here, and the barber might be the first person they meet in this scary big city. It’s always been important for me to be that connection that people have, where they can feel welcome. And where they can get their recommendations for a good pint of Guinness!” Indeed, she has a list of perfect pub pourers divided into north, south, east and west London. 

She’s still educating – this year has included Mexico and Italy – but she’s also learning how not to say yes to everything. “I’m open to every opportunity but my studio is fully booked three weeks in advance, and I’m a little bit on call with Dior. If Johnny Depp needs grooming for an event, I have to jump on a plane and be there! I do also need time to sit down and just enjoy my successes. I’m so hyper, I love doing a million things. But I’m in such a happy place when I’m behind the chair with my clients, in my own space, having a connection and that chat… and that’s something hopefully that I’ll have forever.”   

Related

This Is The Biggest Mistake You’re Making During A Creative Colour Consultation – And How To Solve It

This Is The Biggest Mistake You’re Making During A Creative Colour Consultation – And How To Solve It

May 14, 2024 | DOCUMENTS, EXPLORE

CATEGORIES > EXPLORE > DOCUMENTS

THIS IS THE BIGGEST MISTAKE YOU'RE MAKING DURING A CREATIVE COLOUR CONSULTATION – AND HOW TO SOLVE IT

The success behind great creative colour lies in the consultation, but what are the common pitfalls many hairdressers get wrong? Paul Mitchell educator, Victoria Panting, shares all.

Victoria Panting

Victoria Panting

The biggest mistake I see is hairdressers not taking enough time in the consultation to thoroughly understand the investment the client has in their hair. To clarify, when we are talking about ‘investment’, in this scenario we are talking about the financial investment and time invested. It is vital to understand this from the perspective of your client from the get-go to prevent any change of direction mid-appointment.

Let’s start with financial investment. This topic should always be handled sensitively, and I always like to give a personal tip – do not judge a book by its cover. 

Have an open conversation with your client about how much they have budgeted for their hair today; this will help you understand their financial comfort level. By having this conversation, you may find that what they want to achieve doesn’t sit within their budget,
so it allows you to recommend an alternative service. 

Other things to consider when discussing financial investment in hair with your client are how much your client has budgeted for haircare to maintain their colour. This means it’s more important to educate your client on the importance of home maintenance.

It’s also important to find out how often your client can afford to visit the salon for colour refreshes. Recommend a service with maintenance that matches their budget.

Next, let’s consider investment in time. How much time can your client invest in their hair? Today – if they are tight on time, can we achieve what they want within that time?

Victoria Panting working

This also relates to appointment frequency – ask yourself will this service require a monthly visit to the salon, is this a realistic expectation for your client? If not, will an alternative service provide the longevity your client is looking for?

Finally, can you recommend any retail products which will help the client to maintain their look at home at a time and frequency that suits them? Setting realistic expectations when it comes to ‘investments’ is vital to a happy client.

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“ONLY ONCE WE FEEL IT, CAN WE START TO MOVE THROUGH IT” – WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT…FAILURE

“ONLY ONCE WE FEEL IT, CAN WE START TO MOVE THROUGH IT” – WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT…FAILURE

May 2, 2024 | DOCUMENTS

CATEGORIES > EXPLORE

"ONLY ONCE WE FEEL IT, CAN WE START TO MOVE THROUGH IT” – WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT...FAILURE

Things fall apart, it’s inevitable, but it’s how you respond to failure and grow from it that will lead to success. 

Unsplash Bernard Hermant

Unsplash/Bernard Hermant 

That fuzzy feeling when you attract a new client, turn a lovely profit, or receive a pat on the back for a job well done… it’s great, isn’t it? But life can’t be all good news. We humans are bound to take a wrong step and face failure at various points. Instead of seeing failure as the bogeyman of business, see opportunities for improvement, suggests Gina Conway, owner of Gina Conway Aveda Salon and Spa. “I had to close two locations after lockdown. But I looked at the positives. I had more time and energy to put into one salon and academy, and breathed fresh life into it. Knowing what I know now, and after many ups and downs, I feel I’m in the best professional place in my life.” Failure can be used as a litmus test to figure out whether you’re on the right track in your business. “Sometimes, the world isn’t quite ready, and it’s telling you to listen harder and make some changes,” adds Gina.

Ben Lifton, founder of social media marketing brand Content Kweens, marketing services firm UGC Creators, and a speaker at Salon Smart 2024, advises to check if what you’re experiencing is actually failure… “or does the thing we wanted not serve us anymore”? If it is failure, sit with the feeling as “only once we feel it, can we start to move through it”. Then he advises to process that but “don’t look back and regret”, because that leads to resentment. Afterwards, “identify what influenced us to end up where we are now”, then finally learn and take that learning forward.

“Knowing what I know now, and after many ups and downs, I feel I’m in the best professional place in my life.”

Gina Conway

Perceived failures can leave everyone in a business feeling deflated. But at hair and beauty salon Fringe Benefits in Gloucester, owner Marina Hodgins employs a positive approach to turn things around. “When team members have left and taken their clientele, which has a detrimental effect on turnover and team morale, we dust ourselves off and start again,” she says. “We contact clients to offer an alternative team member that they would be suited to, offering a bonus such as a free reconditioning treatment to demonstrate how we value their support. This helps to grow a team member, boosting confidence.”

Constant success could lead to complacency. Failures, on the other hand, encourage business leaders to stand up and fight. In the case of Fiona Canning Allen, owner of Ark-i-tec Hair in Bradford, failure wasn’t the end “but a stepping stone to growth”. “I’ve learnt to adapt and seek support to navigate the evolving landscape of salon ownership,” she admits. “Through these experiences I’ve become resilient, determined to flourish even amid challenges, and focused on fostering a salon environment where both clients and staff thrive.”

Unless you’re superhuman, failure is an inevitable occurrence in your career. When faced with it, listen to these voices above and unpack them first. Use the experience to grow, learn and get better. Once a positive analysis of your perceived failure has had its use, move on with your chin up, head up, and heart full… 

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“I Love Doing Hair On Clients But Can’t Handle Traditional Salons” – Ashleigh Hodges On The Genesis Of Mash Creative Studio

“I Love Doing Hair On Clients But Can’t Handle Traditional Salons” – Ashleigh Hodges On The Genesis Of Mash Creative Studio

Apr 26, 2024 | CREATIVE PROJECTS

“I Love Doing Hair On Clients But Can’t Handle Traditional Salons” – Ashleigh Hodges On The Genesis Of Mash Creative Studio

The Hackney-based space is now open for creatives, with sustainability at its core.

by  | CREATIVE PROJECTS

Ashleigh Hodges keeps a lot of plates spinning. There’s her role as a global colour ambassador for Davines, her session work as part of the Hairdotcom team and her ever-expanding involvement with the Fellowship for British Hairdressing. Now, she’s opened her own space as well as unveiling her own education. Ashleigh talks us through the key ingredients to her Mash… 

What’s the aim of Mash Creative Studio?  
To offer a sustainable, calm and creative space for hair professionals and beyond. I work in so many areas of our industry – from flying around the world on campaign shoots, teaching or working on TV – so I wanted to create a space to bring my creative community together. Being a former photographic studio, it was perfect to create a multi-functional space for creatives. I love doing hair on my clients but can’t handle being in traditional salons – so much noise and stimuli for this autistic girl. I wanted to create a space that offers a calm environment for both hairdresser and client, with sustainability at the forefront.  

What’s on offer at Mash? 
We offer the space for photoshoots, seminars, education, intimate events, chair rental and more. If you’re trying to make the world a better place, we have the creative space for you to do just that. 

Ashleigh Hodges

Ashleigh Hodges

“I love doing hair on my clients but I can’t handle being in traditional salons – so much noise and stimuli for this autistic girl!” – Ashleigh Hodges

Talk us through the design concept… 
Sustainability was at the forefront of our design. Working with the motto “the world doesn’t need more stuff” made us think outside the box creatively when it came to interior design. All the furniture has been sourced second-hand from markets or flea markets, the House of Hackney feature wallpaper and soft furnishings were sourced from a sample sale. My aim was to curate a beautiful canvas for people and brands to be able to make their own mark when renting out, while keeping our own signature character.  

How will you be marketing your space to collaborators?  
We have created beautiful brochures about the space that are sent out to everyone on our mailing list. Authentic marketing is my aim, reaching out to people personally and helping to shape their creative ideas into reality. East London is a hub of creativity so connecting with others within the community is paramount. Curated social media posts, and working with those within our growing community to spread the word and benefit from that. 

Mash Creative Studio
Mash Creative Studio

What advice do you have for independent stylists looking for a working space?   
Find the space that’s right for you. Test a few out, try them on for size before you settle down. You will know if it’s right within the first hour. There are so many great work spaces out there depending on your professional needs. Look at your business and find the right one that aligns with it. Think of it as a long-term brand collaboration; you want to make sure your two brands lift each other up.  

What are your future plans?  
So many things! My brain never rests. I already have more plans for Mash Creative in the pipeline, and with the launch of my new academy there’s lots coming there too. And to top it off, I’m about to become the Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s youngest ever president. I’m ready to shake things up for sure! 

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