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The Cool Huntress

The Cool Huntress

The Cool Huntress

Zoë Irwin is the talented stylist who’s shown us how to predict, name and package hair and fashion concepts in a way that makes journalists swoon and consumers want to buy. Where on earth would this industry be without her?

by CATHERINE | CONVERSATIONS

 
Zoe Irwin

The Independent calls her “the Stella McCartney of hairdressing”. Her Liberty print styling menu caused a beauty blogger meltdown. And such is her industry kudos that John Frieda asked her to join his salon group as creative director. Zoë Irwin is a truly original and inspiring hairdresser, and it’s fair to say the world of hair would look very different without her imprint.

Ah, yes, her imprint. Zoë has taught us so much. In 1998 she was one of the first to show that it was possible to combine session and salon work, assisting Guido Palau every season for 10 years, while holding down a series of high-profile roles at top London salons. In 2000 she persuaded top fashion photographer Stuart Weston to shoot a hair collection for the legendary Soho salon, Stage Door, where she was creative director, paving the way for a whole new wave of hair and fashion collaborations to follow (previously, the hair world had not been deemed cool enough for fashion photography). And from the get-go she has drilled into us how translating trends from the world of fashion into consumer-friendly hair services can unlock lucrative new revenue streams for our hairdressing businesses. Oh yes, this girl means business.

Zoë’s work blends traditional technique, honed over her remarkable 40-year career, with new concepts developed from her deep understanding of youth culture – she plays with fabrics, language, colour and more, always staying one-step ahead of the game. As a result, brands, magazine editors and fellow stylists have sought out her creative direction and predictions, which are always expertly referenced, emotively named and beautifully packaged.

 

Zoe Irwin

The Independent calls her “the Stella McCartney of hairdressing”. Her Liberty print styling menu caused a beauty blogger meltdown. And such is her industry kudos that John Frieda asked her to join his salon group as creative director. Zoë Irwin is a truly original and inspiring hairdresser, and it’s fair to say the world of hair would look very different without her imprint.

Ah, yes, her imprint. Zoë has taught us so much. In 1998 she was one of the first to show that it was possible to combine session and salon work, assisting Guido Palau every season for 10 years, while holding down a series of high-profile roles at top London salons. In 2000 she persuaded top fashion photographer Stuart Weston to shoot a hair collection for the legendary Soho salon, Stage Door, where she was creative director, paving the way for a whole new wave of hair and fashion collaborations to follow (previously, the hair world had not been deemed cool enough for fashion photography). And from the get-go she has drilled into us how translating trends from the world of fashion into consumer-friendly hair services can unlock lucrative new revenue streams for our hairdressing businesses. Oh yes, this girl means business.

Zoë’s work blends traditional technique, honed over her remarkable 40-year career, with new concepts developed from her deep understanding of youth culture – she plays with fabrics, language, colour and more, always staying one-step ahead of the game. As a result, brands, magazine editors and fellow stylists have sought out her creative direction and predictions, which are always expertly referenced, emotively named and beautifully packaged.

“Zoë’s work is inimitable in that her references offer deep knowledge of her craft – historically, socially and culturally. Her references start not with a trend but from the bare basics of where a style began and she is a teacher to us all (a 1960s style; ears will be covered, stemming from The Beatles).” Ellen Burney, Vogue contributor

“What’s been key to my career is how each different part embellishes the others,” says Zoë. “By doing the shows with Guido, I was seeing hair trends six months ahead of time, and because I worked in a salon, I was able to turn that into something for my clients, which other session stylists couldn’t do because their world was quite separate back then. I started launching styles with names and a whole feeling behind them because that was how Guido worked; it was always about the concept of character. So, for example, for the hair at Chloë, we didn’t tong like we did in the salon. Guido would explain it was as if the woman was looking in the mirror getting ready, so she’s going to do this, and this. And that’s how I learned to tong. It wasn’t the technical way, it was with character.”

This creative foresight, coupled with her ability to build stories around hair that incorporate trend, fashion and historical context, instantly made Zoë a favourite among the beauty press – but not without some clever strategic thinking, too. “I was very young back then and competing for page space with big-name hairdressers, so I decided to target the interns – to do their hair and tell them about my ideas. And most of those young girls have gone on to land the top jobs in beauty, and we’ve remained genuine good friends along the way, mainly because I’m such a fan-girl about journalists and I just love spending time with these women.”

Hannah Betts (The Times, The Telegraph), Rose Beer (ES magazine), Amy Bannerman (pre-loved style director at eBay)… Zoë is friends with them all, but is also aware that they are highly knowledgeable about beauty and that every new trend she launches needs to be authentic and impressive – something she is at pains to teach other hairdressers. “Imagine Vogue is going to call you tomorrow and ask you about fringes,” she declares. “What are you going to say? You can’t use ‘hairdresser speak’! The language you use has to translate into something they can write in their magazine. So, I try to bring that out of my students, getting them to spend a lot of time describing a specific shade of blonde, for example.”

A self-confessed “hair nerd”, Zoë has always fully immersed herself in whatever task she set herself. She learned French so she could study hairdressing in France (her impressive chignon is what led Guido to invite her to join his team); she went to Milan to study trends; she signed up for Central Saint Martins’ Cool Hunting course and studied Fashion Journalism at the London College of Fashion. It has all paid off – handsomely. “In the hair world, being a creative director means you’re part of the art team, but for me, being a creative director is about creatively embellishing the salon. I realised quite quickly that if I learn about things, then I can design something, and with my press contacts I can get it published.”

And what success! For Headmasters, she launched the Kitten Haircut, featuring a new silhouette inspired by Paris Vogue shoots with Guido (Vogue, ELLE, The Sunday Times). For Hari’s, she designed Cobain Chic, a dip-dye colour treatment aimed at attracting a younger clientele (Vogue, Grazia); the Prada Laced Nail, based on the intricate dress designs of the season (Sunday Times Style); and Skin & Hair Salads, nutritional foods and juices targeting different hair types (Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Tatler and Grazia). Then, for Taylor Taylor in Liberty, it was the Tie it Up menu that breathed new life into the store’s heritage prints with strips of fabric woven into Frida Kahlo-esque up-dos (Tatler, Harper’s Bazaar). And for John Frieda, it’s been the Liquid Brunette mocha-noir colour service (The Telegraph) and the fawn-inspired Bambi Blonde (too many titles to mention – this one went stratospheric!), among others. But achieving so much press success doesn’t make life easier for Zoë: “When something goes big, it creates huge pressure for the next trend. John Frieda’s is a big name and I don’t want to let the team down. But [salon owner] Nicola [Clarke] is super-encouraging. We collaborate a lot on naming the trends and coming up with the right language to use around them.”

Staying relevant over a period of 40 years is difficult in any industry, but in Zoë’s role, the pressures become especially enormous. She’s mastered the art of spotting trends, but what about more practical things, like social media?  

“I feel like social media has come along and made everything very difficult because brands are just obsessed with numbers. It puts us under insane pressure,” says Zoë. “And what breaks my heart is that to satisfy the KPIs people want now is not necessarily about being creative. So, I can do a really beautiful shoot, and it will flop, while someone will film themselves clowning around, and it will attract a big audience. I know that’s how it works, but I just can’t bring myself to do that.”

“Five, 10 years ago, my Instagram used to represent who I was and I’d never lose the job. Now I feel like I have to produce work that I hope will satisfy some brands and I’m not sure I can do that while maintaining my integrity. I grew up doing beauty shoots with Tatler and Glamour and everything looked editorial and pretty, but that doesn’t work on social media. Things have got to be shot through a phone and look raw, and I think a lot of hairdressers of my generation really struggle with that rawness.”

Teaching and inspiring young hairdressers is a passion of Zoë’s – and one that has never diminished throughout her career. In 2002 she co-launched Project X for the Fellowship for British Hairdressing, a programme that encouraged aspiring young stylists to incorporate influences such as art and architecture into their work. Now, the Fellowship have asked her to return, in a new role that will see her look after the organisation’s colour teams.

“Initially they asked me if I wanted to go back into Project X, but I was like, ‘You know what? I want to do something different’. So, I want to do colour, but I want to do colour my way, and I’m really excited about it. I find education very fulfilling. I have people come up to me and say, ‘I did your class 25 years ago, and I still really love it’. And the other day someone came up to me from Headmasters and said, ‘Everyone wants you back for a seminar’. When I’m teaching people, that’s where my complete obsession with hair comes across.”

Having recently moved out of London to Hastings, where she’s been able to buy her home outright (“I had found myself taking on jobs I didn’t want to do because of needing money, so I decided to take away that worry”), Zoë is finding a sense of fulfilment in this new phase of her career, people-watching on her commute to work and studying life-coaching. “Things feel more peaceful,” she says. “I have the luxury of time to really look at things that I’m interested in.”

And when she looks back at her incredible 40-year career to date, Zoë feels nothing but happiness. “I feel like relationships are formed in hairdressing that are truly magical – we’re like a family that has basically grown up together. And this industry has always allowed me to go outside, explore other worlds, and then bring what I’ve learned back into the fold. It’s always given me the freedom that I’ve wanted, and I have never, ever been bored. I’ve been accepted.”

 

‘The Hairvoyant’, Tom Smith, Predicts Rich, Bold Colours For Autumn

‘The Hairvoyant’, Tom Smith, Predicts Rich, Bold Colours For Autumn

‘The Hairvoyant’, Tom Smith, Predicts Rich, Bold Colours For Autumn

Indulgent tones and bold statements rise to the top this season

by CAITLYN | EXPLORE

Autumn 2024 is all about embracing rich, indulgent tones that capture the season’s cosy yet vibrant vibe—think earthy, luxe shades that feel like wrapping yourself in a cashmere scarf. Leading hair expert Tom Smith is here to reveal the shades set to dominate, blending warm, autumnal hues with creative, trend-forward twists. “As the days grow cooler, we see a shift towards deeper, richer shades,” he says, noting how these colours bring an effortlessly chic, warm glow to any look.

Kennedy Claire Walsh on Instagram

Chappell Roan on Instagram

A major standout this season? ‘Terracopper’, the earthy copper that feels like a luxe upgrade to your go-to autumn shade. Inspired by the warmth of autumn leaves, Tom calls it “an intense, grounded twist on the classic copper,” giving off a natural, cosy vibe perfect for the season. This rich hue is ideal for anyone looking to switch things up but keep it familiar.

Emma Chamberlain on Instagram

Blake Lively on Instagram

Not ready to let go of that summer glow? ‘Sunflower blonde’ is your answer. “It’s all about keeping that golden radiance alive as we move into autumn,” Tom explains. Bright, youthful, and glowing, this shade keeps summer vibes strong well into sweater weather.

Avril Lavigne on Instagram

SZA on Instagram

Feeling a little bolder? ‘Flamingo pink’ is the season’s showstopper. Neon, punchy, and impossible to ignore, it’s the ultimate choice for anyone looking to turn heads. “It’s not for the faint of heart,” Tom notes, “but if you’re ready for a bold change, flamingo pink is your colour.” This shade brings the fun back into autumn hair, proving that vibrancy isn’t just for summer.

Jane Fonda on Instagram

Salma Hayek on Instagram

Meanwhile, ‘natural greys’ are here to stay as more people embrace their evolving hair colour. “It’s about honouring the greys, not hiding them,” Tom says, encouraging clients to work with their natural shades for a low-maintenance, polished look that screams ‘effortless cool.’

Khloe Kardashian on Instagram

Salma Hayek on Instagram

For brunettes, ‘cinder toffee brunette’ is this season’s indulgence. Think caramel meets chocolate, with just a hint of golden glow. “It’s rich but with a brightness that’s perfect for autumn,” says Tom. This shade is perfect for those transitioning from summer, keeping things light while still embracing the season’s deeper tones. It’s the hair equivalent of ordering a pumpkin spice latte but with an extra shot of sophistication.

With such a diverse palette, autumn 2024 offers something for everyone. Whether your client’s vibe is subtle and warm or bold and daring, this season’s colours have you covered. Tom’s top advice? “Stay tuned to your client’s comfort level—gradual shifts or bold pops, it’s all about making them feel fabulous.” And with clients becoming more adventurous, the possibilities are endless.

Ultimately, it’s all about balance. Whether they’re craving a soft, seasonal switch to ‘terracopper’ or ready to take the plunge with ‘flamingo pink,’ the key is creating a look that feels personal and perfectly autumn-ready. Because nothing says autumn chic like hair that’s in tune with the season’s trends.

Regis And House of Colour Win Big At Wella Professionals TrendVision Award Final

Regis And House of Colour Win Big At Wella Professionals TrendVision Award Final

Regis And House of Colour Win Big At Wella Professionals TrendVision Award Final

New venue and six epic shows round off stellar event

by AMANDA | INDUSTRY NEWS

Regis and House of Colour were the big winners at the 2024 Wella Professionals TrendVision Award Final, each taking home two trophies.

Hosted by Love Island’s Laura Whitmore and Wella artist, Fergal Doyle, at Old Billingsgate on the banks of the Thames, the evening also found Scottish salon brand Medusa celebrating a win in front of a 600-plus strong audience. Interactive elements included key artists wearing Meta Glasses, offering the chance to see the event through different perspectives, such as a backstage perspective with James Earnshaw and a host’s view of the audience through Fergal Doyle.

As TrendVision celebrated its 20th anniversary, the theme of the night was ‘self-expression’. “We have celebrated more than 200 winners and each time it becomes a life changing event in their career,” said Max Amen, Wella Company general manager, UK & Ireland. TrendVision is not just about the finalists and the stylists, it’s also about the businesses that invest in education to train and elevate their teams.

Renaissance by Cobella

Six boundary pushing creative shows, offered a “window to the soul” of the artistic teams, with the stage acting as their canvas for personal storytelling. Wella’s UK & Ireland colour & trend ambassador, Jordanna Cobella, presented Renaissance, celebrating the palette of the golden hour glow through period hair, fashion and photography with contemporary embellishments.

Beyond Boundries by Sassoon

Hair at TONI&GUY

Sassoon visited 1920s Berlin and Paris in Beyond Boundaries with an immersive show that centres on three powerful colour – red, black and white. Hair at TONI&GUY’ from the high street favourite referenced their fashion heritage with a bright, colourful and diverse showcase of colour and texture.

Scandi Style Storytellers by STIL Salon

Alien Allure: A Futuristic Hair Odyssey by James Earnshaw

STIL Salon’s ‘Scandi Style Storytellers’ saw minimalism meeting something a little more bold as they played with Nordic aesthetics. James Earnshaw’s Alien Allure: A Futuristic Hair Odyssey utilised an intense colour palette, from acid-wash to vivid violets and bold blues alongside exaggerated shapes and textures,

Infinity by HOB Academy

Finally, ‘Infinity from HOB Academy also took the audience on a futuristic journey, showcasing the power of transformation. Bronzed curls, fluffed out texture and heavily straightened lengths against curled bangs delivered everything from sleek and polished to avant-garde and voluminous.

The night then switched gears with the after party, with the iconic DJ Fat Tony on the decks above a packed dancefloor.

And the winners are…

 Craft Visionary

UK: Corinne McNaughton, Medusa Bread Street

 Craft Visionary

Ireland: Alex White, House of Colour

Colour Visionary

UK: Dawid Mielnik, Regis Manchester

Colour Visionary

Ireland: Maggie Grant, House of Colour

XPOSURE Creative Colour

Skye Holford, Kleek Apprenticeships/Regis UK

The Irish Budget 2025 – What You Need To Know

The Irish Budget 2025 – What You Need To Know

The Irish Budget 2025 – What You Need To Know

From Minimum Wage Rise To A Delay in Pension Auto-Enrolment

by AMANDA | INDUSTRY NEWS

A delay to the Auto-Enrolment Pension Scheme and an increase in the National Minimum Wage are among the key highlights from Ireland’s Budget 2025, revealed by Minister for Finance, Jack Chambers.

Here are the key takeaways:

The Minimum Wage will increase by 80 cents to €13.50 per hour from 1 January 2025.

The Auto Enrolment Pension Scheme is not set to start in September 2025. This has been postponed from January 2025.

VAT registration threshold will rise to €42,000 from €40,000 for the supply of goods and services.

VAT for utilities – currently at 9 per cent – is extended for another six months to 30 April 2025.

Personal, Employee and Earned Income Credits will increase by €125.

The 4 per cent USC rate is reduced to 3 per cent.

The Small Benefit Exemption increases to €1,500 from €1,000. You can provide employees up to three tax-free benefits annually, as long as the combined value doesn’t exceed €1,500 and none are in cash.

The Standard Rate Cot-Off Point has been raised by €2,000 to €44,000, with proportional increases for married couples and civil partners.

Details will also follow on support for the retail and hospitality sector, with a €4,000 flat-rate payment for businesses with a rates bill below €30,000 to be launched.

You can find more details here 

Saddle Up And Style

Saddle Up And Style

Saddle Up And Style

Promotion – BaByliss PRO

BaByliss PRO is the home of iconic precision tools that empower professionals the world over to deliver dazzling looks on the daily. Always evolving, always advancing, it’s time to say howdy to its latest professional styler – STILISTA

by AMANDA | INDUSTRY NEWS

Whether you’re styling urban cowboys or Dolly Parton wannabes, BaByliss PRO has a tool in its arsenal that will amplify your creativity and your results, every time. And because it’s always innovating to ensure you have exactly what you need, there’s a new tool making its home on the range…

STILISTA is an advanced professional styler that’s perfectly engineered for optimum heat and control to create flawless long-lasting styles in an instant.

Advanced Ceramic Technology gives you more power, speed and responsiveness. We’re talking faster heat up – up to 190°C in just 30 seconds! – and instant recovery to maintain a constant temperature and exceptional heat distribution over the entire surface of the plates. That means it delivers better styling and long-lasting results. Yee-haw!

 

Crafted from titanium, one of the strongest and most durable materials, floating plates deliver outstanding heat transfer for perfect straightening in just one stroke… even at lower temperatures. Its curved design and its stay cool housing gets you right into the roots, bang on for boost lift and volume. That new rounded exterior also means you can wave and curl effortlessly.

There’s a treasure trove of tech, as high-capacity ionic technology creates smoother, softer and shinier hair for a long-lasting sleek finish no one will want to hide under a Stetson.

Versatile, high-performing, impactful – STILISTA is the BaByliss PRO styler you need in your holster, whether you’re in the salon, on set or in the studio.

“Oh my goodness, wait til you get your hands on the STILISTA. This is incredible. It’s an amazing multi styling tool” Michelle Sultan, BaByliss PRO ambassador

Wherever your styling journey takes you – from Quiet Luxury to Cowboy Core and beyond – create and innovate every time with STILISTA from BaByliss PRO. Discover more at babyliss.com