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THE TOP TRENDS SPOTTED AT LONDON FASHION WEEK A/W24

THE TOP TRENDS SPOTTED AT LONDON FASHION WEEK A/W24

THE TOP TRENDS SPOTTED AT LONDON FASHION WEEK A/W24

Get the lowdown on the key hair trends spotted on the catwalks at London Fashion Week A/W24 shows

Backstage at Mithridate A/W24

As London Fashion Week concludes, we’re reflecting on the biggest trends spotted on the catwalks at the A/W24 shows. A melting pot of creativity, this season saw a number of stand out styles, including metallic foiling, the return of the deep side parting and a celebration of natural texture. Here’s the looks which will be setting social media ablaze come A/W24…

A touch of metallic

At New York Fashion Week the use of gold foil was seen at Christian Siriano, with Lacy Redway adorning models with foiling on buns and at the roots. Not be to be outdone by our American counterparts, the session world in London also embraced the intricate foiling technique this season, with both gold and silver details appearing across the weekend.

At Mithridate, Johanna Cree Brown was inspired by statues of ancient Buddhas in the jungles of Asia and the gold patina weathered with moss and slight decay. Using L’Oréal Professionnel Paris products, we saw gold leaf applied in broken pieces to reflect the patina on ancient statues. Using a brush and bowl, Tecni.ART Fix Max gel was applied to the centre parting, before pieces of gold leaf were added at the parting to catch the light, using the handle of a tail comb to press into place. The hair was finished off with Ellnet Spray to keep everything in place.

Photography by Rebecca Maynes at Chet Lo A/W24

Meanwhile at Chet Lo, it was silver leaf in the spotlight. Hair lead Anna Cofone worked with Authentic Beauty Concept products to add silver leaf to the hair as a nod to the collection. It was a genius way of referencing the concept of clothes becoming armour, which is also reflected in the slicked-back spiked graphic shapes created. “My relationship with Chet has spanned more than three seasons and it’s one that I really treasure, as there is absolute creative trust and a genuine authenticity within the design process,” Anna said. “It was amazing to have the support of Authentic beauty Concept, the products worked perfectly for what we needed to achieve.”

The return of the side parting

It’s an age old debate between generations as to what parting is ‘cooler’ but if this season’s shows are anything to go by, the side parting is back on top for A/W24.

Spotted on the catwalk of Harris Reed A/W24 was a more subtle take from Ali Pirzadeh, crafted using Dyson Professional tools. In harmony with the sweeping drapes and billowing volume in the garments, Ali introduced a structured side parting with an ‘S’ shape lift at the hairline, and a healthier looking, high shine blow-dry finish, created using the new Dyson Supersonic r professional hair dryer. The graphic take on a classic up-do incorporates a sense of masculinity, nodding to Harris’s fluid approach to gender.

Images: Backstage at Harris Reed A/W24, model at Eudon Choi

Over at Eudon Choi, hair lead Adam Garland also used a sweeping side parting as a core detail. “The overall look is designed to have no hard lines,” Adam explained. After creating an irregular parting on the left, Airy Texture Spray from Authentic Beauty Concept was used to create a dry, dusty texture. Next, a ponytail was created at the nape area. “We then created texture on the right-hand side by rubbing a balloon up and down the hair shaft to create static, using a light mist of Working Hairspray then repeating to lock in the new texture,” he added. To complete the look, hair was placed over the right side of the face and random pieces were tucked to create a veil over the face.

Likewise, a sweeping site parting and low ponytail were core details seen at KNWLS, with hair lead Mustafa Yanaz using Session Label from Schwarzkopf Professional to achieve the lived-in finish. “Imagine a New York, Upper East Side girl with beautiful hair. She goes to a second party and ties the hair in a knot,” Mustafa explained. “She looks like she partied already, but the hair still looks healthy and shiny.”

Images: Photography by Alex Barron-Hough backstage at KNWLS A/W24 

Nature’s touch

While some shows and presentations offered statement styles, with others a ‘less is more’ approach was seen, as hair teams looked to enhance the model’s own natural texture. At Supriya Lele, Syd Hayes created “freshly washed and brushed out, beautiful hair.” Syd and his team worked with a  centre partings on all of the girls, with freshly washed hair dried flat using the new BaByliss PRO Falco dryer and nozzle attachment, and brushed to create fluffiness and texture to ensure the look of real-life lived-in hair. To finish the look and add some movement, Syd used the 25mm Titanium Expression Curling Tong to add a very slight bend to the front sections of the hair to frame and open up the face.

Images: Supriya Lele A/W24, 16Arlington A/W24

Similarly, at the 16Arlington show, Sam McKnight and his team delivered a look which personified natural, Cool Girls. It was Inspired by the beautiful models walking in fresh off the street. Some models had their hair de-frizzed and de-fluffed with Happy Endings or Dressed to Kill, smoothing through where needed. Other models had a soft wave added to the front, using a straightening iron. An S shape was created with the section, before gently tapping with the straightener to create texture.

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DYSON UNVEILS ITS NEW PRO-EXCLUSIVE DRYER

DYSON UNVEILS ITS NEW PRO-EXCLUSIVE DRYER

DYSON UNVEILS ITS NEW PRO-EXCLUSIVE DRYER

The Supersonic r Professional hairdryer is smaller and lighter with no heat damage. 

Dyson has unveiled an innovative hair dryer exclusively for stylists at New York Fashion Week that’s smaller and lighter, with new technology to avoid heat damage to hair.
The Dyson Supersonic r Professional hair dryer comes with a variety of attachments that include intelligent Radio Frequency Identification sensors. These communicate with the dryer, automatically adjusting the motor and heater to deliver the ideal airflow and temperature for each one. If a stylist alters any of the settings on an individual attachment from one client to the next, the sensors will also remember the last settings used. The new dryer is 30 per cent smaller and 20 per cent lighter, and more manoeuvrable to deliver fast drying, alongside smoother, frizz free and shinier results on hair.
It will be used across the four main Fashion Week cities during the A/W 2024 season, starting with Christian Siriano and Prabal Gurung in New York. The reveal follows ongoing surveys and interviews with nearly 700 stylists since 2017. Through these, Dyson identified challenges hair pros were facing, and was keen to provide a tool that responds to “real world demands” while still delivering on styling experience and results. Its research found that a stylist will typically see between 4-16 clients each day, spending on average 30 – 60 minutes styling per client, adapting their angle up to 30 times during one styling session. It pointed to the prevalence of strain related injuries such as carpal tunnel syndrome among stylists as a result.

At a glance: Dyson Supersonic r professional hair dryer

It has a new ergonomic design
The Dyson Supersonic r has been designed ergonomically in an ‘r’ curve and, at 325g, weighs less than a can of hairspray. The shape allows stylists to reach where it’s normally difficult, for better control when styling hair, and for better comfort while doing so.

There’s more even heat thanks to new heaters
The new curved heater ensures the dryer heats the airflow more evenly, with no hotspots. For stylists, this means you can rely on more even temperatures (including when using the attachments), a higher temperature for faster drying and styling, with no heat damage. The dryer checks the temperature constantly using Dyson’s intelligent heat control – seen in its other hair tools, too – measuring air temperature more than 20 times a second.

The attachments have sensors… and they’ll remember how you used them
There’s a range of attachments that have integrated Radio Frequency Identification sensors, which communicate with the dryer, automatically adjusting the motor and the heater to deliver what Dyson engineers have set as the ‘optimal’ airflow and temperature. For example, the diffuser is set to low flow and low temperature to reduce frizz and enhance curls without disrupting the curl pattern. In contrast, the rough dry mode uses maximum power heat and flow to minimise drying time but while keeping the airflow controlled. However, stylists can adjust these settings depending on the hair type and style of each client, and the dryer will remember that setting the next time the attachment is added.

Its filter can go longer between cleans
The 3D mesh filter at the bottom of the dryer, designed to capture salon pollutants such as hair and styling sprays, now lasts up to two times longer in-between cleans.

Stylists can join a waitlist here for the new pro-exclusive dryer. 

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NEW GUIDELINES REVEALED FOR ALLERGY TESTING

NEW GUIDELINES REVEALED FOR ALLERGY TESTING

NEW GUIDELINES REVEALED FOR ALLERGY TESTING

Collaboration of industry bodies unveils new testing protocols for professional colour in the UK.

A new allergy testing protocol for professional hair colour has been unveiled through a collaboration of industry bodies. 

Associations including the National Hair and Beauty Federation and Hair & Barber Council have blended the changes announced by Cosmetics Europe last year with existing industry best practices. The new guidelines offer a clear benchmark for hair professionals, insurers and hair colour brands to meet to promote the safe use of professional hair colour services in the UK. 

Posting professional colour to a client’s home for them to test at home is not recommended under the new protocol, as this goes against industry best practice and may invalidate insurance cover.

The new protocol recognises three systems for professional allergy alert testing:

1. The Allergy Alert Test (AAT)
Instructions designed by manufacturers and printed on packaging and instructions for use.

2. Protocols designed for professional use only and conducted by a hair professional*
Hair colour brand protocols are applicable to their own products only, whereas some hair industry, trade organisations’ and insurers’ protocols can be used with any hair colour brand.

3. Universal allergy screening tests licenced as medicines for consumers to use at home to screen for the most common hair colour allergen (PPD)
These products are available to buy online or via approved stockists and may only need to be used once.  

“Having three options that have been thoroughly researched and examined by our industry leaders makes it simpler to understand and easier for us to communicate to the public,” says Gareth Penn, registrar at the Hair & Barber Council.

“Allergy alert tests are vital to protect clients and guard against potentially expensive legal action if something goes wrong. This is a huge step in the right direction,” added Caroline Larissey, chief executive at the National Hair & Beauty Federation. “These collaborative guidelines will help raise standards and also support clients make an informed choice.”

The industry bodies working together are Good Salon Guide, Salon Employers Association, the Barber Council, the Fellowship for British Hairdressing, the Freelance Hairdressers’ Association, the Hair Council, the Men’s Hairdressing Federation and the National Hair & Beauty Federation.

* Precise protocols differ and it is the responsibility of hair professionals to check cover with their own insurance provider.

THE COTERIE: WHY SOCIAL MEDIA CAN MAKE OR BREAK YOU

THE COTERIE: WHY SOCIAL MEDIA CAN MAKE OR BREAK YOU

THE COTERIE: WHY SOCIAL MEDIA CAN MAKE OR BREAK YOU

As pressures rise to be on top of your game when it comes to content creation, just how important is social media for a modern day hairdresser or barber?

It’s no secret that building an online presence can be a real game-changer when it comes to running a successful business. What first started as infrequent updates on a Facebook page or occasional posts on Instagram has evolved into the lofty heights of content creation – something which nobody is taught when starting out in the industry.

As I sat in the audience at The Coterie London on Monday night, listening to the panel discuss the future for hairdressing, it was the notion of hairdressers becoming ‘creators’ that really stuck with me. Maybe that’s unsurprising, given I’m Creative HEAD’s digital and social media manager, but it became apparent from the eight industry experts sharing their views, that for them, the value of social media (when done right!) cannot be underestimated – of course I agree wholeheartedly on that front! Yes, it can feel overwhelming – especially when just two years ago we didn’t know what a Reel was – but it really can be a springboard for big things. Take Jay Birmingham as a fantastic example – the session artist now has a whopping 42K followers on his hair account alone!

I’ve watched how Jay has developed his personal brand over the years, finding a niche in working with influencers and celebrities to help grow his following through word of mouth. Every day I see examples of ‘influencer hairdressing’ when scrolling the Creative HEAD feed, whether filmed tutorials, taking people behind-the-scenes into work life, or sharing looks that become trending styles, I believe it is an area of the industry which is only continuing to grow further. Like Jay, when I consider this aspect of the industry, names such as Chris Appleton and Andrew Fitzsimons immediately spring to mind. Particularly in the past five to ten years, I’ve seen first-hand how social media has elevated the industry and given birth to a new era of hairdressing icons. “For me, social media was the best thing to happen. It saved our industry; especially in COVID when it was a tool to remind clients or followers that we existed,” Jay explained.

As well helping hairdressers to become ‘influencers’ in their own right, I believe social media is at its core a brilliant tool for attracting new clients, and reaching the type of clients you want to work with. You are what you attract, so if it’s vivids, balayage or great cuts that you want to be your bread and butter, that is first and foremost the content you have to be sharing. As Georgia Freeman of Q Cut Hair & Beauty pointed out, “post what you enjoy doing the most, because that’s what you want to do.”

Listening to Georgia, I was so impressed to hear that 10 per cent of her clients have discovered her through social media, with some travelling over an hour and a half for an appointment. Though newer to the industry, I think this highlights the value in adapting to what Instagram wants, as opposed to trying to fight it. We could discuss algorithms, reach and views until we’re blue in the face, but the bottom line is that in order to be seen you need to be doing the right things. “Having a presence online gives you exposure. No one looks at Google anymore, Instagram is your free portfolio and the best marketing tool you can have,” Georgia said. It seems a rather bold statement, but I was eagerly nodding in the audience because she is absolutely right. Think like a consumer for a moment – how do you discover new brands, restaurants or places to visit on holiday? The answer is in hashtags, geotags and scrolling through the ‘explore’ page. If I’m being brutally honest, I’m immediately sceptical of any Google review now, but a well curated Instagram feed doesn’t lie.

With such a useful business tool at our fingertips, it’s vital to make sure it is being used right. I’ve seen SO much amazing content in my many hours spent scrolling and searching for potential reposts, but unfortunately I’ve seen many fall at the first hurdle. Whether that means separate accounts for work and personal posts, taking extra effort to capture finished looks or capitalising on current trends, I thoroughly believe are many ways to make Instagram or TikTok work for you, but an even greater number of pitfalls to avoid.

Aside from the obvious need for good lighting, keeping filters to a minimal and ensuring you post at key times, a successful social media profile needs to be authentic. When a potential client first comes across your page, what does it say about you? Nobody knows your business better than you, but you have to make sure you’re presenting the best version of yourself – not the one you’ve seen 10 other hair pros mimicking in an attempt to be popular. As one of the panel at The Coterie, Karrie Fitzmaurice, owner of Kit Studios,  discussed how there are two ways to remain authentic when creating content. “Who you are born as is the content you create, that is your purpose. For others, the focus of the content is their true goal – it is the first thing on their mind when they wake up.” Whichever the approach, Karrie is right when she says that it will help with posting authentic content. Of course,  I know more than most that what we share on social media and what we deem as a ‘real life’ are often worlds apart, but our presence online can have elements of both. If your content has a purpose, then it will be authentic.

As curator of the Creative HEAD feed, what resonated with me the most was Karrie’s magic formula to growing organically online. She explained that once you have your purpose and goals, you need to use that alongside what is trending on social media. With both these factors in place, it is then key to repeat and go hard in order to do what the platform wants of its users, which is to post all the time. I know that can seem incredibly daunting, but consistency is absolutely key to growing your following. I’ve had to adapt what content we share too, but even just adding a trending audio to a great process video or a finished look can dramatically improve the reach of your content.

Talking to The Coterie crowd, Jack Mead of Jack & The Wolfe made a strong statement I can absolutely get behind – every hair pro should embrace social media. Having amassed over 74K followers, I would urge any reader to take one look at Jack’s feed because it is a great example of finding your niche with Reels content. Jack has learnt what content gets the best engagement in order to grow his business further, and I think it’s particularly clever how he’s coupled that with the extended reach posting Reels regularly offers. You’ll see how  Jack documents the transformative process of a salon service, placing clients in front of the camera to show the real emotion. “The most important part of what we do is how a client feels after, so I wanted to capture the emotional side,” he said. “If they are okay with being filmed, document the beginning, middle and end of the appointment. Show the happiness they feel.”

I will be the first to acknowledge that managing an Instagram account doesn’t come naturally to everyone. Nobody is born knowing how to reply to a DM, film a slick TikTok transition or edit videos. We’re all still learning, right? That’s why I agree with Jay’s advice to invest in a content creator, such as a student or recent graduate who may know far more. Regardless of where you’re at or which avenue you take,  my main piece of advice is to remember to remain true to you. If you’re going to use social media, use it correctly. The end result? Good work will always get seen – and you may end up on Creative HEAD’s channels too! 

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MY SPACE: SIOBHÁN JONES STUDIO

MY SPACE: SIOBHÁN JONES STUDIO

MY SPACE: SIOBHÁN JONES STUDIO

Independent colourist and educator and global ambassador for L’Oréal Professionnel Paris, opens the door to her new studio in Horsham.

What was the aim of the space? 

I was looking for a space that felt like me aesthetically and would give me the freedom to run my day how I wanted without the responsibility or pressure of leading a whole team. I wanted to create a space that I enjoyed being in and felt like home. I’m all about a calmer and slower pace of life, so the furnishings and colour palette needed to reflect that.  
I plan to use the space not only to run a column for my clients but also to create content and online education. I do a lot of brainstorming, admin, meetings and content creation for my education courses, so I also wanted to create a space I enjoy being in to do those administrative tasks. 

What advice do you have for independent stylists starting their studio-style salon?  

Give yourself sufficient storage. It sounds very dull, but it’s often the bit that gets forgotten. I’ve learnt my lesson from having a salon before, and it’s even more important in a small space! If you want your space to look aesthetically pleasing, you are going to want areas to put stuff away like products, colour, ring lights, towels, so more storage is a must.
Invest in good quality salon equipment like cutting chairs and basins but do shop around for all the other furniture and design. These are the parts that will bring character.
Make sure you choose a colour partner that you not only love using on your clients but is easy to order and the quantities you want. You want a brand that can support you. I work closely with L’Oréal Professionnel Paris and having a good relationship is key to making your space work. 

How does your one-to-one approach work in practice?  

I can see up to three clients daily depending on their chosen colour service. When renting a chair, you often will need to pay a daily rate for the chair and or give a percentage of your takings. Depending on whether you need to rent or pay for the space will factor in how much you take home. 
With my studio, my outgoings are less than when I work freelance from a space, allowing me to do fewer clients in a day. However, offering a one-on-one experience to a client most definitely opens up the possibility of adding a premium to your pricing. 

How will you be marketing your space to potential new clients? 

All my marketing has been on social media platforms; videos of the space and hair have been great to grab the attention of potential new clients. It gains the most reach. However, recommendations from existing clients will always be at the top of the list when attracting new clients.
When clients take selfies in the space, I get them to share on social media. If people see the vibe of the space and match with it, they are more inclined to book as the recommendation has come from a friend. 

What do you have planned for the future? 

I’m launching the podcast The So Lovely Hair Show alongside my co-host, Ollie Blackaby from The Hair Salon in Brighton. We’ll be recording from the studio, intending to offer real-life, open and honest staff room chit-chat, covering a variety of topics and challenges that freelancers, creatives and the hair industry are faced with.
My career has had many ups and downs, and I genuinely believe that the hard times have made pivot in new and positively life-changing directions. Discussing my struggles and how to overcome them with friends and colleagues is what has got me through, so I hope to bring a bit of that support, honesty and inclusivity to our industry. I’m also working on an exciting project with L’Oréal Professionnel Paris which will be launching in March so watch this space!

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