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WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT WORKING WITH HIGH PROFILE CLIENTELE

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT WORKING WITH HIGH PROFILE CLIENTELE

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT WORKING WITH HIGH PROFILE CLIENTELE

Jay Birmingham brings us backstage at Fashion Week to share his advice for handling a packed calendar of clients.

Jay Birmingham at BRIT awards

Jay Birmingham backstage at the BRIT Awards with Maya Jama

“Fashion month is always a huge whirlwind. Going between London, Paris and Milan is a great opportunity to immerse yourself in the buzzing atmosphere of each fashion capital.

As a hairstylist deeply entrenched in this world, I’ve had the privilege of witnessing firsthand the magic that unfolds backstage, and now more regularly working with clients who are attending the shows. More than ever, all eyes are on those sitting front row, therefore it is so important to nail the look head to toe.

Managing your time effectively during Fashion Week, which is typically a fast-paced and hectic period, requires careful planning and organisation. I start by looking at the schedule well in advance and the timings of the bigger shows. This allows me to predict where the buzz will be. It’s also important to prioritise, as you can’t be in two places at once. This involves carefully planning my own schedule, as travel needs to be factored in, alongside extra ‘buffer’ time to account for unexpected delays or last minute changes. Doing so helps reduce stress and ensures that I arrive on time for each commitment.

Conversely, it’s vital to stay flexible for last minute bookings which can lead to great opportunities with new talent, some of which I might not have worked with if it wasn’t for Fashion Week. Behind all the glamour is a lot of prep and hours of travel, from prepping wigs to making sure my kit is stocked, so planning in advance is key.

This Fashion Week I worked with some incredible talent, including the wonderful Maya Jama for the Albert Ferretti show in Milan. Maya’s look featured a choppy cut with bangs and lots of movement throughout the hair.

I also had the privilege of styling Maya for the BRIT Awards, which fell during the Fashion Week craziness! Maya was one of the hosts for the night, and we decided on a style featuring the ‘butterfly effect’. This involved adding numerous layers to the hair to create a textured yet sleek look, which complimented her stunning black gown. I was on hand at the O2 Arena to help with final touch ups, both behind the scenes and on the red carpet.

Jay Birmingham backstage
Jay Birmingham's hair kit
Jay Birmingham doing wig prep

L-R: Jay with Blanca Soler and wig prep for Maya

London Fashion Week also saw me create one of my favourite looks for my client, Munroe Bergdorf. It was for the Self Portrait show and focused on crafting a playful style to showcase her new bold copper colour. I love to look at the client’s colour and shades and find ways to style the hair to complement the overall aesthetic. This season also saw me work with the amazing Blanca Soler for Burberry, Amina Muaddi for the Tiffany X British Vogue event, and Xenia Adonts for the Prada and Gucci shows. All were very different and contrasting looks to one another, but it’s great to experiment with different styles and get creative. After all, this is what Fashion Week is all about!

As a hairstylist, Fashion Week serves as both a showcase of our skills and a testament to the transformative power of hair in the world of fashion. Until next season, we’ll continue to push the boundaries of creativity and innovation, one hairstyle at a time.” 

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THE 3 BIGGEST BLONDE MISTAKES THAT COLOURISTS MAKE

THE 3 BIGGEST BLONDE MISTAKES THAT COLOURISTS MAKE

THE 3 BIGGEST BLONDE MISTAKES THAT COLOURISTS MAKE

Tia Lambourn – founder of Bay Studios in Derby and both Tia Lambourn Education and The Blonding Bible online platform AND a Redken Advocate – knows what NOT to do when blonding a client! These are the mistakes to avoid

Tia Lambourn

MISTAKE 1 – Rinsing too early

The bleach is on and you’re panicking: ‘I’m using a blue bleach, and it looks like it’s ready to come off’. What ends up happening is that the hair’s quite yellow underneath. What I usually recommend in my education and Blonding Bible classes is to take out a tiny strand of hair from the foil and do an elasticity test, instead of just judging it visually. You can then feel if it’s ready to come off. If it has started to feel a bit stringy, then that can also save you from breakage. That has saved me in the past, when I’ve thought: ‘this needs another 20 minutes’.

I’ve been in the middle of a colour correction where the hair looks orange, and I’ve pulled on it, I’ve felt that it’s got a little bit of give, and I know I need to take it off now.

MISTAKE 2 – Ignoring the clear

When it comes to glossing, not everyone utilises the clear. The most used ‘colour’ in my salon is the clear! Sometimes the hair lifts so perfectly that what you’re going to end up doing is almost making it look slightly muddy, or a bit heavy, or when there’s a lot of pigment in the hair, it makes it appear darker. So, if you do have a client who wants to be mega blonde, and you’ve managed to lift them to a really nice level 11, you want to gloss with your chosen shade and the same amount of clear – go half and half. In some scenarios, I’ll even do three-quarters clear, one-quarter of the chosen shade.

MISTAKE 3 – Using ash toners for a bright finish

Ash was a big trend, everyone wanted to be an icy blonde or platinum, but for really bright blondes, I’m always reaching for the warmer shades. A lot of the time you have a client who wants to be mega blonde, but they want to be ashy, so colourists will mix up an ash toner. But if you think of a white cloud compared to a grey cloud, the grey cloud has more ash in it… and it looks darker. With a blonde tone that’s more ashy, it’s going to appear slightly more dull. It’s not actually dull, it’s just got a heavy amount of pigment in there, so it’s going to appear that way because it’s not going to reflect the light so much. You can do a mix of warm and ash so that it is not golden, but it’s not super ashy. It’s more of a creamy milky blonde, then you get the best of both worlds.

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‘Ask Me Anything’, With Most Wanted Legend Jody Taylor

‘Ask Me Anything’, With Most Wanted Legend Jody Taylor

'ASK ME ANYTHING', WITH MOST WANTED LEGEND JODY TAYLOR

Jody Taylor won the Men’s Hair Specialist award three times. Here, he shares advice and guidance on taking home a 2024 trophy.

Team Phillipart

Sitting on the fence about entering Most Wanted? We probed three-times Men’s Hair Specialist winner, Jody Taylor, for answers to common questions about the competition. Here’s what he gave us. 

You were already a successful artist before winning your first Most Wanted award, why did you enter? 

Because it’s a chance for me to reflect on my own work. To put everything into a presentation and have something I can look back on. It’s also a chance for other people to see my work, who weren’t aware of it beforehand. 

Did you have a game plan for preparing your entries?  

Um, no, I didn’t. The most important part is to just start! I’m a great believer that action creates motivation, so put some time aside, review your work over the last year, what you’ve achieved, and if relevant, pull together the images you’ve created. Then think about your case study and take it from there. My entries took me a while – I went over and over them until I was happy. Then I started cutting them down and got my friends, colleagues and family to look. The only way to do it, is to physically do it – don’t procrastinate over it. It’s just giving yourself time, having a look at it and giving it a go. 

How did you find the time to get everything done? 

There’s not enough time in life to do everything, you just have to prioritise what’s important to you. Entering Most Wanted was something I wanted to put time aside for.

Did you find it difficult putting together the written parts of your entries? 

My English – spelling, literature, everything – is the worst in the world, so I’d write it in my own words, then ask a friend, or family member – my Mum – to proofread it, and help me with it. What I wanted was for the words to be my own. We’re hairdressers, we’re not necessarily academics; as long as your words read like you, that’s what’s important. 

How did you decide what to include or exclude? 

It was quite easy for me. There were moments over the particular year – projects I’d done – that I was super proud of. Ultimately, you’ve got to think of the things that give you stand out from the crowd in your specific field. 

You won three times; did you change your approach each year? 

No. My approach was very similar each time, in that I created a magazine with my work. I wanted to have something I could keep with me as memorabilia, too, so a lot of thought went into the design, the format and the images I selected. I kept it the same every year because I wanted to create these books, almost so I can look back at them in 20 years’ time and think, wow that’s cool!  

Looking back, is there anything you’d change about your entries? 

No, I wouldn’t change anything because I know I put every effort into them, and I think that’s the most important thing. It seemed to work for me! 

Did winning have an impact on you and/or your career? 

Definitely! I’ve got a lovely shiny trophy – or three of them – up on my shelf, which makes me feel very proud. But honestly, it’s not about winning, it’s about entering. Entering is the most important part because you are putting yourself out there and you’re trying to improve. If you don’t win, you’re going to look back and try to improve the next year. Actually, just being proud of your work and allowing other people to see it, I think is the main thing. Making the effort – that is winning for me.  

Any final words about entering? 

100 percent you should enter! Don’t dwell on it, just do it and don’t worry about the outcome. Focus on the doing it! 

It’s free to enter the Most Wanted. Entries must be submitted no later than 9pm on Monday 20 May. Click here for a full list of categories and how to enter. 

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WANT TO WORK WITH INFLUENCERS? THIS IS HOW YOU GET THE BEST OUT OF THEM

WANT TO WORK WITH INFLUENCERS? THIS IS HOW YOU GET THE BEST OUT OF THEM

Want to work with influencers? THIS is how you get the best out of them

Here’s the skinny on influencer etiquette so you don’t get burned, from Thomas Walters of influencer marketing agency Billion Dollar Boy.

Team Phillipart

George Pagan, Unsplash

Think local

You need to identify your objectives for an influencer marketing campaign. This will dictate the types of partnerships you should prioritise and how to execute them. Assuming it’s a campaign designed to grow awareness and drive consideration for SMEs working to a budget, you should explore collaborations with micro-influencers in a targeted, local campaign. This is cost-effective, generating on average $5.78 (£4.55) in earned media value (EMV) for every dollar (79p) spent. It can help to boost your content output, grow your audience, and increase credibility.

Focus on TikTok and Instagram

You’ll get best value for money on TikTok and Instagram, which are still the best-performing platforms when it comes to influencer partnerships because of the reach they can generate and the number of influencers available, especially in the beauty and personal care sectors. Knowing your core target audience will determine which platform is best suited for your influencer marketing campaign. For example, TikTok typically skews towards a younger demographic. Knowing the type of content you want to create – whether it’s long form or short form, or video or still imagery – is crucial. TikTok tends to generate better performance for short-form video content while Instagram is a more effective channel for still imagery.

Who are you targeting?

You need to identify your key target audience. Focus on demographic characteristics such as age, gender and location, which are key indicators of an individual’s interests and potential purchase motivations. This will help to whittle down the list of prospective influencer partners. You should also explore subcultures with an affinity to your brand and target audience. For example, participating with influencers active in the Hairtok conversation on TikTok in which consumers share hair related content.

Go micro

These subcultures are where you’re most likely to find ‘micro-influencers’, with smaller but often more loyal and more engaged audiences. It means that they often generate higher engagement rates, which means more impactful collaborations and better return-on- investment if you’re working to a budget.

To pay or to gift?

To further keep costs down, you might want to explore gifting instead of paid collaborations, offering free services and/or products in exchange for visibility on the influencer’s channel. This method may not work for influencers with large followings since their barrier to promotion can be much higher, but this approach can be highly effective for local micro- influencers who are effective in spreading positive word-of-mouth.

Take over a trend!

Consider ‘trend hijacking’ as an approach to influencer collaborations. TikTok has changed audience behaviours and the speed at which content is consumed, popularised and then dissipates. Businesses able to spot trends and react quickly to them can gain significant reach on a budget, using influencers to join the conversation more organically. Small businesses have the benefit of being agile, so can use this strategy to effect.

Trust is key

Effective influencer marketing relies on trust, which means authentic partnerships are crucial. This is built by creating genuine relationships with the influencer and the business and its services. You can do this through gifting so the influencer actually knows your offering well and genuinely endorses it as a user themselves. Longer-term partnerships, which are far more convincing than one-off collaborations, help too. Consider committing to more than one sponsored post with an influencer or within a niche community.

Team Phillipart

Thomas Walters

 Love their content?

It could be a match Choosing the right influencer can be a challenge. It’s important that the look and feel of their content is aligned to your aesthetic, especially if you plan to amplify the content beyond their audience. Ensuring alignment leads to improved performance and engagement. You’ll need to do your due diligence and thoroughly assess an influencer’s track record to ensure they align with your values and to ensure there aren’t any contentious historic posts.

Track it all – and track the right stuff

Careful monitoring of performance to gauge effectiveness can be hard. You’ll need to work with the influencer closely to secure their first party data insights. Be wary of assessing performance against the right metrics. Beyond vanity metrics, such as engagements, you should also consider comments, saves and shares. They show deeper consumer intent.

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Five Tips For Mastering Your Most Wanted And It List Entries

Five Tips For Mastering Your Most Wanted And It List Entries

FIVE TIPS FOR MASTERING YOUR MOST WANTED AND IT LIST ENTRIES

Some handy hints to support your bid for success in this year’s Most Wanted and It List Awards. 

MWIT Judge 23

Tommy Cunliffe, 2023 judge

We know you’ve got this, but we also know it takes a lot of time, energy and focus to compile an awards entry, so a bit of guidance to keep you on track can only help, right? The following five tips have been gathered from years of experience running the competitions, together with feedback from our judges, so we reckon they’re worth a look. Now, go forth – and go get those Most Wanted and It List trophies!

1. Get to grips with what’s needed first 

Once you’ve chosen the category or categories you’re entering, really take time to understand what the criteria is asking for. Not only is it vital to hit all the asks to be eligible for the next phase, but our judges refer to the criteria while they’re evaluating each submission, deciding who has met the brief brilliantly. They can be a great guiding tool in setting out a clear framework for your submission. 

2. Pack in personality 

Think about what sets you apart from your peers. How can you give the judges a sense of who you really are? What is the unique story you want to tell? Inject tonnes of personality into your entry – including within the language you use, the imagery you include, and the stories you’re sharing. This will all help to ensure what you put forward is as authentic to you as possible.

3. Share learnings as well as successes 

The Most Wanted and It List awards are about your journey, not just a small snapshot in time. It’s as important to include how you got to where you are now, as it is to talk about your present situation and future focuses. Don’t be afraid to include learnings alongside successes, judges love to hear how you overcame obstacles and used the experience to fuel your fire! 

4. Show variety
Demonstrate the breadth of your brilliance! If you’re entering a creative category, have you shown a wealth of different work and skills at play, for example a variety of styles/techniques on a diverse range of people. If it’s a business category, have you shared a good balance of what you offer and achieve? Absolutely shout about your key strengths but consider the full scope of what you offer within your craft too. 

5. Leave time for reflection 

You may feel time is on your side right now, but don’t be fooled! You’ve got a lot of awesomeness to sift through and assemble, so make sure you build in enough time to review your entry, make any revisions, and get it uploaded in time for the deadline.

That’s it! Five handy hints to help you on your way, may it be fun and fruitful, good luck! 

It’s free to enter the Most Wanted and the It List 2024. Entries must be submitted no later than 9pm on Monday 20 May. For category lists and entry instructions, click here for Most Wanted and here for the It List. 

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